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  1. #1
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    What terrain justified an ALL MOUNTAIN bike ?????

    Okay, I currently have a kick butt hardtail with excellent components that I use both off road and for the occasional neighborhood spin. In the coming months I want to be buy an additional bike........full suspension this time.

    I reside in Florida and primarily ride at two dedicated mountain bike areas. Although the state is very flat, both areas were built on old phosphate mines which means alot of small quick hills (less than 30ft. high). These trails are very highly acclaimed within our state and our host of numerous riders within the state.

    The terrain consists of plenty of roots, rocks, quick and steep ascents/descents with the occasional 2 foot drop (not much chance for true hucking/aerial play). It's probably the most some of the most aggressive trails you'll experience in Florida.

    Based on that, would you get a full suspension XC or All Mountain bike?

    Put another way...........can all the all mountain bike handle decent on the occasional tame trail? and can the XC bike handle short but very steep climbs/drops?

    Please help a newbie out....

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    I already rode that
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    What do most of the riders use at those places maybe you can judge it from that. 4-5" is prob more then enough for what you describe but it depends on your own riding style/terrain.

    Ride a few bikes and see what you like best then go from there. As to weather an AM or XC fs bike , its both the same to me so pick either one.
    Riding F/S since oct 94'

  3. #3
    ColoradoCoolBreeze
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    IMO and AM bike is a Heavy Duty XC bike.
    How much do you weigh and how fast/agressive do you plan to ride?

    That will determine if you need an AM bike.

    For me,
    AM bikes just (((Rock))) and I would have one even if I only did concrete bike paths.

    hth
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  4. #4
    SuperInstigator
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    I'd say one of those five inch travel 24 hour enduro XC race bike would fit the bill. I don't know your budget, but I was just reading bike, and I saw the Felt Virtue, GT I-Drive, Marin Mount Vision, Specialized S-Works Stumpjumper FSR, and Trek Fuel. All these are 5 inch travel bikes, just to give you an idea.

    Other bikes to consider would be the Giant Reign, an Ibex Atlas, a Kona Dawg, Santa Cruz Heckler (a inch or so too much travel), Ironhorse MKIII, etc...)

    These bikes will handle 2 feet drops with a little more confidence than a <4 inch travel XC race bike. It will be a little more comfortable for your not quite XC yet not enough for AM riding.

    Budget?

    Good Luck!
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  5. #5
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    Thanks everyone.

    It seems many have full suspension rigs............haven't really paid attention if most are XC or AM.

    5" seems plenty for this application and should suffice for the occasional trip to the mountains.

    5'11" 190lbs.

    I think I'll give the 'all mountain' bikes mentioned a good hard look.

  6. #6
    mojo mofo
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    Also have a look at the Ibis Mojo.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SingleTrackLovr
    IMO and AM bike is a Heavy Duty XC bike.
    Thats funny because I always think of mine as a Light Duty DH bike that pedals good.

    As you have noticed their are varying degrees of All Mountain depeding on turrain or the bike your using, it's really just the gray area in between XC and DH and there seems to be alot of gray area. I think your on the right track looking at a 5" trailbike, I ride a Reign (6")in the Cascade mountains of Washington State and sometimes I feel like it's almost too much bike.

  8. #8
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    I haven't really kept up on this, and it does seem like there is a fair amount of overlap and blurring between categories. With that disclaimer, I think an important difference between a "XC" and an "all-mountain" bike might be the beefiness of the frame. Even with 5" of travel, I'm not sure a pure xc rig is designed for regular doses of 2 foot drops.

  9. #9
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    Cannondale Prophet. Full suspension. New (with basic components) for little over $1K. Perfectly all mountain; although I'm upgrading mine to be more FR/DH worthy. And this is coming from an ex-Floridian...

  10. #10
    Praise Bob
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    I ride in Florida primarily at Santos and Alafia, and have found that the terrain definitely lends itself to owning an "All Mountain" bike. I am sure that people that have not ridden here dont beleive me. We might not have extended climbs or downhills, but the terrain is very rocky and rooty with rollercoaster style steep technical drops and climbs.

    Parks like Santos have north shore style stunts and some big drops ( 15ft +). I dont know what your price point is, but the SC Heckler is a great bike and so is the Nomad. I own an Ellsworth Moment, and my wife owns a Titus Motolite, both of which perform great in this enviroment. Since you wont have any long uphill efforts anywhere in FL you can afford to own a slightly heavier bike that can take the abuse that our technical trails dish out.

    my .02

  11. #11
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    I have a Kona Dawg Supreme, beefed up a little bit so its a more sturdy FR steed and I beat the snot out of it (I am 5' 11" and 180lbs). I do jumps, drops, north shore style stunts, downhill, you name it. I am not doing anything huge but do hit an occasional 4-5 foot drop/jump. It handles everything I throw at it. It does have a more beefy frame than a XC bike but is still extremely pedal friendly for trails. A bike with 5-6" of suspension and a beefy frame will take quite a bit of punishment.

  12. #12
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    A well built 4" XC bike would be nice to have there. I would not get a 5"-6" bike till I got to rougher terrain like in MT, CO, some CA trails, UT, and rocky East Coast trails. A slack bike with long travel may be a bit heavy and a bit sluggish to ride fast and handle the nimble trails you describe.

  13. #13
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    Im on board with the 4-5" travel bike. An all-mountain bike is really overkill for what your describing. I rode a 00 Gary Fisher sugar (2.5" front and rear) bike for years and wouldnt think twice about a 2-3 foot drop. I never had any kind of problem (im 6'1 170). Id be more worried about the wheels than the frame in the 2-4' drops. As long as you dont get something with a steep head angle you'll be loving life with a 4" bike.

  14. #14
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    To me the factor i look for is not so much the amount of suspension travel, but the head angle and geometry of the bike. An all mountain bike should have a slack enough of a head tube angle that when you come to the downhill part of the ride, that you aren't fearing going OTB too easily because your weight is too far forward. Likewise it shouldn't be so steep that you are losing control climbing because your front wheel is always lifting up.

    Travel is a luxury really. You don't need it, but it sure is nice. It mostly helps by giving you more choices in what line to take down a trail, and being possibly over all faster.

    How big a drop you want to tackle is a combination of both suspension travel, your weight, and the bikes toughness. Generally higher travel bikes are tougher because they are marketed at taking certain abuse.

  15. #15
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    If your talking about Alafia and Boyette, your HT will likely do just fine. I only went FS because of the damned roots that plague a few of these trails.

    That being said, I'd second the Cannondale choice. I went with a Rush instead of a Prophet, and I love the bike. Drop by University Bicycles in Tampa (on Fletcher Ave) and check out their selection.

    I've also ridden Santos, and the 110mm (4.3") travel is plenty. My bike weighs 27#s and it could easily go into the 25# range without becoming unreliable. This definately puts it in the XC/AM category and could be raced in the endurance races in the area.

    One of the best cyclists I ride with rides a Trek 8500 HT and puts us all to shame...
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  16. #16
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    You're correct..............it's primarily Alafia and Boyette with a trip to Santos hopefully upcoming.

    My hardtail is around 26lbs.............

    I guess I'll just sit back and ride that bike until I find a sweet deal on craigslist or ebay.

    My bike handles that stuff well.......just thought the FS would handle the drops with greater ease. Either that or I have a small bit of money at my disposal that I'm looking to blow !!

  17. #17
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    Ride out the HT it's a great builder of reflexes.
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  18. #18
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    very good question. I agree with the dogonfr and some others - ride the hardtail. that should be plenty for the types of terrain and riding you have mentioned....

    All mountain is a blurred concept....its open to interpretation. it ranges between XC and FR. so you can have like an XC/AM to a FR/AM bike....

    Now, before going to the AM terrain, I would ask people - What consist the XC terrain...Does XC terrains have roots, rocks, small drop offs, or small jumps...

    To me a well equipped XC bike can take a lot of abuse. more than most people would agree. The thing is there is always the "need" for sexier gear...and All mountain bikes (frames) are beefed up to satisfy that visual crave....with just a little more sturiness...

    so, with an AM bike you get a bit more sturdiness with a serious weight penalty....an XC bike will climb a lot better than an AM bike...but an am bike would be more stayable on the downhill section....specially if the downhill section is technical (another stupid and confusing word)...by technical I mean very steep decent with larger obstacles and gaps (all mountain bikes handles it better with a slacker head angle - 69º or 68º as oppose to 71º on an XC bike). also a longer wheel base on a AM bike will make it more stayble on a rough decent...Also a longer travel and beefed up frame helps the AM take bigger jumps and drops....But, from your post it does not sound like you are doing big jumps...

    Keep in mind that the AM bike will probably be at least 5-8lbs heavier than an XC bike. So, the XC bike will climb a lot better (here 71º head angle is an advantage for the XC BIKE). and you would have to haul less weight.

    if you are riding a quick handling singletrack type terrain where fast handling is important...an XC bike will do better than an AM bike. with larger travel and slacker head angle the AM bike would feel lazy on turns and swichbacks....

    so, the point is if you want a bike that you can take to more challenging terrains...if you want to own a heavy duty bike to show off or brag about.......go for the AM.....but if you want a bike that truely satisfy your riding needs (performance on the trails).....an XC bike will be plenty.....

    It may not be practical for you....when I was reading your description I was thinking that Jamis Dakar XC line would be a perfect bike for that situation...
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  19. #19
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    Get a Chumba XCL.

    http://www.chumbaracing.com/xcl.shtml

    Really stiff frame, tough and rigid where it counts. Will handle anything Florida has to offer without being total overkill, but you can take it to Colorado or Utah and tear it up there as well.

  20. #20
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    I generally agree with Orca. To me one of the biggest and most underrated factors on an AM bike is that the slonger wheelbase really helps you from faceplanting on really steep drop-ins where there are technical rocks on the way down. Yes, a weight penalty but definately beefier. Also, high speed stability is better on the AM bike.

  21. #21
    s62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orca
    so, the point is if you want a bike that you can take to more challenging terrains...if you want to own a heavy duty bike to show off or brag about.......go for the AM.....but if you want a bike that truely satisfy your riding needs (performance on the trails).....an XC bike will be plenty.....
    haha, that's not at all biased. I had the same delimma as the OP, and considered it for awhile. I ultimately chose to go the route of AM, as I have the option of handling rougher terrain anytime I want with a bike that still climbs and handles well. I've got a Jamis Dakar XLT 2.0 coming, and my experience with those is great. They still climb well, they're aren't sluggish or too heavy, and they can bomb like no XC dreams of. The weight penalty is there, but doesn't wind up affecting me adversly. I easily trade the extra few pounds for the added terrain I can handle and the smoothness and capability of the downhill. The extra effort that goes into climbing isn't huge, and frankly, I'm not worried about breaking a sweat.

  22. #22
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    I have no idea what the hell this catagory/forum is for.

    Methinks it's not for people who ride all terrain, it's because some people DON'T ride all the terrain and they need seperate catagories.

    So this is not the "all mountain" forum, this is the "cross country forum for people that really ride cross country, up and down, rough and smooth". The people who stick to the flat terrain need their own catagory called, "cross country".
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  23. #23
    s62
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    No, all mountain is a distinct catagory. AM differs from XC in that AM anticipates small to medium drops and rougher terrain in general. It's not just an issue of flat versus up and down... at all. The geometry is different, the travel is different, the needs are different. Somewhere between FR and XC is all mountain, but AM itself varies...

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardway
    Get a Chumba XCL.



    Really stiff frame, tough and rigid where it counts. .
    Really? If it's stiff and rigid where it counts, then what special considerations did they take into effect when they designed it with the horst-link? The pivot in between the rear hub and the main pivot contributes to a lot of flex, and unless something special like needle bearings, bushings for lateral rigidity, or double bearing sets exists, then I have doubts that it's "rigid where it counts".
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem
    Really? If it's stiff and rigid where it counts, then what special considerations did they take into effect when they designed it with the horst-link? The pivot in between the rear hub and the main pivot contributes to a lot of flex, and unless something special like needle bearings, bushings for lateral rigidity, or double bearing sets exists, then I have doubts that it's "rigid where it counts".
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  26. #26
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Versus, Turner & Nicolai
    and ventana and knolly, some of these are no longer "horst links" of course, but all of these manufacturers do a lot more than chumba seems to when considering lateral rigidity. Machining yokes and tubes only does so much, the pivot interfaces are a huge consideration, and it's expensive to machine to the tolerances required by the turner bushings, or to put the type of bearing sets in that ventana does, and so on. That's what you pay for with these manufactures.

    Another good way to guage a manufacturer is to look at the shock mounts. If they are wide and use spacers and relatively small bolts, it's going to be easy for that long and relatively small bolt to bend, as I've done with many bikes. Turner uses 3-d shaped linkages that allow the use of a very short bolt, so it's much harder to bend. Other acceptable arrangements include very large axles that run through the shock mounts, they are at least a lot harder to bend, but that interface is also a very critical junction. Doesn't look very special or "rigid" on the chumbas.

    Not that they aren't decent bikes, but I don't see much to seperate them from a specialized.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  27. #27
    ride hard take risks
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    Chumba is a great company though, they supported some great racers in the day & are making a comeback. They are a company that cares about the customer & that is definitely something to take into consideration when buying a bike. The independent's tend to be there because if something goes wrong alarms go off.
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  28. #28
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    if you follow mtbr long enough, you will be convinced that you need 6"+ travel front and back for riding to the grocery store.

  29. #29
    it's....
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    I rode Alafia last summer, and it maybe a rough trail for FL, but pretty tame still.
    HT with Thudbuster will do just fine for the roots, but 6" AM bike would be kinda overkill (like my Wolf Ridge was).

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalenduro
    Im on board with the 4-5" travel bike. An all-mountain bike is really overkill for what your describing. I rode a 00 Gary Fisher sugar (2.5" front and rear) bike for years and wouldnt think twice about a 2-3 foot drop. I never had any kind of problem (im 6'1 170). Id be more worried about the wheels than the frame in the 2-4' drops. As long as you dont get something with a steep head angle you'll be loving life with a 4" bike.
    What do you guys mean by "inch"?

    Like I'm seeing 4" AM bike or 6" DH bike etc.. What does that mean? Is that suspension travel or something?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mordy
    To me the factor i look for is not so much the amount of suspension travel, but the head angle and geometry of the bike. An all mountain bike should have a slack enough of a head tube angle that when you come to the downhill part of the ride, that you aren't fearing going OTB too easily because your weight is too far forward. Likewise it shouldn't be so steep that you are losing control climbing because your front wheel is always lifting up.

    Travel is a luxury really. You don't need it, but it sure is nice. It mostly helps by giving you more choices in what line to take down a trail, and being possibly over all faster.

    How big a drop you want to tackle is a combination of both suspension travel, your weight, and the bikes toughness. Generally higher travel bikes are tougher because they are marketed at taking certain abuse.
    I think Mordy is spot on here. The control you get when descending comes a lot from the geometry. If you have a nice, stout AM hardtail with a solid 5" fork, it will track very straight and smooth and the relaxed head angle will make navigating those technical downhill sections much more fun. Using a shorter stem also helps a ton at achieving this feel. This type of set up will work better than even a full suspension xc bike with a steeper head angle and 4" of travel. I think tires and wheels are really what can give your bike a quick light feel or give you that too overbuilt feel common with AM bikes.

    I always rode hardtails until I got a kona kikapu 4" travel xc bike. At first I thought "full suspension= awesome DH bike!" and that was the case for the first 6 months of riding it. You will soon adjust to the full suspension though and realize that you didn't actually buy a great bike for going downhill too. It is the geometry that is holding you back. I ended up getting a Giant reign and the added travel and geo has opened up the possiblities for me when it comes to more aggressive riding. I think if I could do it again with a first full suspension bike. I would look towards the AM bikes first as opposed to getting a full sus xc bike.

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  32. #32
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    5-7 in travel im a doin fine
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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem
    I have no idea what the hell this catagory/forum is for.

    Methinks it's not for people who ride all terrain, it's because some people DON'T ride all the terrain and they need seperate catagories.

    So this is not the "all mountain" forum, this is the "cross country forum for people that really ride cross country, up and down, rough and smooth". The people who stick to the flat terrain need their own catagory called, "cross country".
    Dude, you're getting it all wrong as usual. What you're describing above is actually cross-mountain, where you ride generally flat, but are on the side of a mountain, and have the OPTION of going up or down. Terrain has nothing to do with it. If it did, you would then be in the All-ride category, unless the terrain included drops greater that 6.235 inches, in which case it would be considered Free-Country. Perhaps the most confusing category is down-country, where the trails are bumpy, your bike must have exactly 3 inches of travel, and kangaroo rats must be present and have nests along the trail.
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by CactusJoe
    Dude, you're getting it all wrong as usual. What you're describing above is actually cross-mountain, where you ride generally flat, but are on the side of a mountain, and have the OPTION of going up or down. Terrain has nothing to do with it. If it did, you would then be in the All-ride category, unless the terrain included drops greater that 6.235 inches, in which case it would be considered Free-Country. Perhaps the most confusing category is down-country, where the trails are bumpy, your bike must have exactly 3 inches of travel, and kangaroo rats must be present and have nests along the trail.
    priceless

  35. #35
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    Every bike can be all mountain as long as you have all mountain thoughts while you ride it. Personally I like to jam on my all mountain bike while I am listening to some good all mountain music,drinking red bull, my favorite all mountain drink. Just ride.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve owens
    Every bike can be all mountain as long as you have all mountain thoughts while you ride it. Personally I like to jam on my all mountain bike while I am listening to some good all mountain music,drinking red bull, my favorite all mountain drink. Just ride.
    Red Bull is a Freeride drink. Clearly, Mountain Dew is for All Mountain. It didn't used to be that defined. Used to be you could drink whatever you wanted as long as it was X-TREME! However, Mountain Dew seems to have cornered the market on being X-TREME lately, so I don't know if it would be appropriate anymore to drink anything else while riding All Mountain.
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  37. #37
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by moshelove
    I always rode hardtails until I got a kona kikapu 4" travel xc bike. At first I thought "full suspension= awesome DH bike!" and that was the case for the first 6 months of riding it. You will soon adjust to the full suspension though and realize that you didn't actually buy a great bike for going downhill too. It is the geometry that is holding you back. I ended up getting a Giant reign and the added travel and geo has opened up the possiblities for me when it comes to more aggressive riding. I think if I could do it again with a first full suspension bike. I would look towards the AM bikes first as opposed to getting a full sus xc bike.
    I agree with Moshelove (and Mordy too) here. I've never (yet!) done a two-foot drop, but I love the downhill portions of my rides. The geometry and suspensions of my all-mountain bike lets me take those downhills with much more confidence than before. I bought my bike for the geometry, not for the ability to do drops.

    Basically, I want to go out and earn my turns. I want to be able to ride up a hill and really enjoy the reward of flying down the backside. My "all-mountain" bike lets me do that without the constant feeling that I'm going to fly over the bars.

  39. #39
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    The 5-inch travel bikes are real popular right now as a nice compromise between the heavy freeride rigs and the less burly 4-inch xcountry rides. The trails I ride are rocky rooty some up and down like you have described and the 5-inch bikes make a lot of sense for those conditions. I went allmountain as I like to do shuttle runs and my new Turner RFX is better blazing downhill. My buddy wants to build a Turner 5.5-spot and there is no doubt he will have a better all around ride. My RFX weighs in at 33lbs, where as a similar cost build spot should weigh around 30lbs. I doubt that the 3lbs makes as much a difference as the geometry. The spot will be more nimble and the RFX more stable.
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  40. #40
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    The way I always saw it, downhill is insane rough terrain only downhill, freeride eases up on the terrain and adds some small hills to go up, though nothing too hard. All mountain is either a freeride type bike built light enough to get up hills, or an xc bike able to go downhill better. Either way, when you think about it its about the same bike. Both your hard tail and fs fall into the catagory, both are ment to be pedaled up hill (you don't jump on a freeride rig and look foward to the hills) and both can be thrown around a bit without fear of breaking the bike. At the same time, both would be alright for a trip to the store or something.

  41. #41
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    I just bought a chumba xcl and I must say that the frame has absolutely zero flex and I am not a lightweight. I weigh around 190 and legpressed 1400lbs about 2 years ago so I would flex a frame. This frame is stiff. I also tried flexing it by pulling on the seatstays and chainstays and there was no flex. It is about 1/2lb heavier than most other 5" bikes though but personally its not that big of a deal.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by SingleTrackLovr
    IMO and AM bike is a Heavy Duty XC bike.
    How much do you weigh and how fast/agressive do you plan to ride?

    That will determine if you need an AM bike.

    For me,
    AM bikes just (((Rock))) and I would have one even if I only did concrete bike paths.

    hth
    STL
    I totally agree. My bike is more XC oriented than full all mountian, but it would be considered a long travel XC bike at best, and it handles the big stuff with no problems at all. I love the confidence inspiring geometry, and the fact that my bike can even go UP hills without a problem. if I could do it all over again I would. Except I may go with a Giant Reign instead
    2013 Cannondale F29 2
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  43. #43
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    Titus Motolite, Turner Spot, Yeti 575 etc etc.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by CactusJoe
    Dude, you're getting it all wrong as usual. What you're describing above is actually cross-mountain, where you ride generally flat, but are on the side of a mountain, and have the OPTION of going up or down. Terrain has nothing to do with it. If it did, you would then be in the All-ride category, unless the terrain included drops greater that 6.235 inches, in which case it would be considered Free-Country. Perhaps the most confusing category is down-country, where the trails are bumpy, your bike must have exactly 3 inches of travel, and kangaroo rats must be present and have nests along the trail.

    Dude, jayem was riding up-hill one handed and bitting the heads off kangaroo rats and border collies that got in his way yesterday. He rode up, down, around, over and under all the mountain.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryCallahan
    I haven't really kept up on this, and it does seem like there is a fair amount of overlap and blurring between categories. With that disclaimer, I think an important difference between a "XC" and an "all-mountain" bike might be the beefiness of the frame. Even with 5" of travel, I'm not sure a pure xc rig is designed for regular doses of 2 foot drops.

    Oh come on Learn how to ride a bike, and then any bike can handle two feet. 2 foot drops are just part of riding. You don't need any travel to handle that small of a drop. Saying a 5" XC bike might not be able to handle that is recockulous
    Disclaimer: I no longer fix bikes for a living.
    National Ski Patroller to feed my winter habit.

  46. #46
    ride hard take risks
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwnhlldav
    Oh come on Learn how to ride a bike, and then any bike can handle two feet. 2 foot drops are just part of riding. You don't need any travel to handle that small of a drop. Saying a 5" XC bike might not be able to handle that is recockulous
    Dont tell those guys at the Rampage riding HT's there on the wrong bike they might hit 50' instead of 45' drops what will those FS guys say then.
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  47. #47
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    All these sub sections of riding is just f.....g stupid and It is irritating me reading all this at three in the morning ,it just goes to show the short commings of the modern bike rider.I was going riding tomorrow but on second thoughts i will stay at home and look at my bike instead.Saves testing my skills.Sod doing any drops or small jumps whilst MOUNTAIN BIKING,i might learn how to ride a frigging bike.Unless it has suspension of course.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by JrockFeltaz
    Dude, jayem was riding up-hill one handed and bitting the heads off kangaroo rats and border collies that got in his way yesterday. He rode up, down, around, over and under all the mountain.
    Only because I was being chased!
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Dont tell those guys at the Rampage riding HT's there on the wrong bike they might hit 50' instead of 45' drops what will those FS guys say then.
    Disclaimer: I no longer fix bikes for a living.
    National Ski Patroller to feed my winter habit.

  50. #50
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    Here in Tampa most people use 4 or 5 inch travel bikes. You do see the rare Nomad or Reign out and about at Alafia but not at any of the less technical places. 4 or 5 inches of travel is all you need for Palmettos and the like that make up Florida trails. Still, nothing turns heads like a pimped out 8 inch travel bike lol. Me, I'll just go with a 29er.
    Floridas Other Crazy White Guy....http://www.swampclub.org/smf/index.php

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faux Part Deux
    if you follow mtbr long enough, you will be convinced that you need 6"+ travel front and back for riding to the grocery store.
    6-inches is minimum and absoluty critical when you need to clear the curb, style for the ladies and not spill your double skinny nonfat hint of white chocolate sprinkled with cinnamon latte.
    Ride hard, Drag the broken pieces back, Share lusty tales of adventure & Tell everyone, " I almost stuck the landing".

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faux Part Deux
    if you follow mtbr long enough, you will be convinced that you need 6"+ travel front and back for riding to the grocery store.

    Totally depends on the neighborhood your grocery store is in. I wonder if these guys would have faired better on an AM bike? Quick escape down those stairs? Or just the shear front'n factor of big tires?

    http://www.denverpost.com/telecom/ci_6293966

    One of those shooting took place about two blocks from my house, right near my Safeways. But no body fvcks with me because I roll wif da AM. B!tches.
    Happiness is a warm 2 stroke.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve71
    Totally depends on the neighborhood your grocery store is in. I wonder if these guys would have faired better on an AM bike? Quick escape down those stairs? Or just the shear front'n factor of big tires?

    http://www.denverpost.com/telecom/ci_6293966

    One of those shooting took place about two blocks from my house, right near my Safeways. But no body fvcks with me because I roll wif da AM. B!tches.
    White good Red bad
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