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  1. #1
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    Weight Mods to my New AM Bike (Reccomendations?)

    So I picked up a new Specialized Enduro SXT I, SO STOKED, however I'm not sure but I think the weight is going to be high mid 30's once I swap out the tires. I'm just curious as to what you guys would change(that's not Godly expensive) in order to lighten her up but still keep her strong for abuse. This will be my do-it-all rig for riding rolling xc and some light DH. I won't be doing anything over 10ft drops but I am heavy @ 220lbs so I need strong parts.

    Should I just leave it as is with a tire swap to lighten the load or do you think I could shave some weight elsewhere without spending too much? Here's what I put together piece by peice for weight, the only thing I don't have is frame and shock weight.

    Does anyone know this?
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  2. #2
    CURB HUCK!!!!!!
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    congrats on the buy
    Little things that I could think of are:
    A strong 31.8 carbon bar, there're a few out now that're designed specifically for dh
    A thomson x4 stem and masterpiece seatpost have pretty much the highest strength to weight ratios but I'm not sure how that compares to the truvative and syncros listed and the shortest x4 stem is 50mm
    You could maybe shrink your rear brake to a 7in
    ?? titanium bolts ?
    That build does look really good, you're a big guy and that'd be a great do-it-all bike that will keep coming back for more
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  3. #3
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    I would switch the dhx 4.0 for the DHX air. But its a pricey upgrade.

    Maybe a lighter saddle. Ti rails will drop some weight.

    Going tubless might shedd some ounces.

    Upgrade the seatpost and stem to Thompsom. They are scary light and supper durable.

    Only things I can see since your a big doooooood.

  4. #4
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    hmmm.
    Thomson stem (171),
    Easton EA70 or Answer ProTaper bars (~255),
    7" rear brake rotor
    Gamut chain guide (very nice and light...<150)
    XT cranks (not sure if these are lighter)
    Wellgo pedals (they make a lightweight platform pedal that can knock off ~200 grams)
    Titanium saddle (wtb rocket v ti)

    this will add weight, but you should consider adding a gravity dropper or speedball post :-)

  5. #5
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    Frame + shock are maybe 9 lbs or so.

    I wouldn't mess with that spec at all. If you really wanted to, you could get a lighter wheelset and switch it out for the stock wheels when you do mellow rides. Other than that, there's not much to do other than go all carbon & ti crazy.

  6. #6
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    front hub seems heavy and those tire weights seem light for 2.35's, maybe 2.1's?
    Last edited by 'size; 08-01-2006 at 05:47 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 'size
    front hub seems heavy and those tire weights seem light for 2.35's, maybe 2.1's?
    Yeah, the spec's are ball park, not exact science. I used a combination of www.speedgoat.com, and the manafacturer sites to get ball park estimates. Specialized doesn't list their weight of the parts, so I looked at average weights and picked a "mode" from those. Feel free to research the questionable weight/parts for me though

  8. #8
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    Are you really going to pedal a single 36t chainring uphill?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunfodder
    Are you really going to pedal a single 36t chainring uphill?
    No the bike spec's listed are stock. I might remove the chainguide and run a front der with a 2 ring bash setup. Although, around here, granny gear really isn't necessary, neither is big ring as it's mostly technical xc. I could probably put a 32 t on there and be set by utilizing the rear 9 rings. I think a front der, cable, and shifter is going to equal if not superceed the weight of the chainguide so I'm not sure yet.

    THanks to everyone who has offered up some suggestions. I found that if I really want to nit pick, I could pull everything off of it, sell it, and upgrade to hand picked light weight parts, but, then I'd be out of a ride for a few weeks and well, that would suck. Wish I could of gotten the SX II, the fox 36 is 1,000 grams lighter than the 66 but specialized was fresh out at the warehouse and had a killer blow outdeal on the 1's. I'm stoked, I guess if I don't feel it's light enough to do both come winter I'll just nit pick then, but I've been off the bike for a week now(just sold my other ride) so I'm jonesing to get back in the saddle. I guess all in all, I could probably drop it down to 35 ish with swapping everything out for the lighter brother sister equivelant, but then again, wouldn't dropping about 20lbs of body weight be a better option? What I mean is, I'm working on loosing weight, so if I drop 20lbs or more, wouldn't this superceed (sp?) the few pounds in bike weight?

    I'm just being nit picky I guess, in between semesters, no bike to go ride, and just work going on so I gotta do some sort of analysis until the bike arrives or school starts backup lol

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reamer
    I guess all in all, I could probably drop it down to 35 ish with swapping everything out for the lighter brother sister equivelant, but then again, wouldn't dropping about 20lbs of body weight be a better option? What I mean is, I'm working on loosing weight, so if I drop 20lbs or more, wouldn't this superceed (sp?) the few pounds in bike weight?
    yes and no. of course 20 pounds off of you would help tremendously, but making the bike lighter isn't just about having to lug around extra weight on climbs (although that helps too ). A lighter bike will translate into your bike being easier to toss and flick around and handle.
    good luck
    and it's even more of an incentive to upgrade if you got a killer deal on your bike
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunfodder
    Are you really going to pedal a single 36t chainring uphill?
    depending on his local terrain (rolling xc and light dh) there's no reason he couldn't.
    i ride an '06 enduro expert with 24/36/bash & 11-34 cassette with a few heavier than stock parts and can't remember the last time i dropped into the 24.

  12. #12
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    You have a 7.1 lb fork. New RS Totem or Lyric air might save 1 lb or so... just a bit pricey, I guess
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  13. #13
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    That's a pretty hefty build for rolling XC and light DH. I reckon it's going to be close to 40 lbs all up. You are a big lad though, so at least it's not going to fall apart! You'd have to swap out pretty much the entire bike to get it down into the low-mid 30s. Those wheel rims are 716g a piece for a start! So I'd go for a lighter wheelset (eg. Crossmax XL), a lighter fork and possibly an air shock. The rest is all going to be a few grams for a load of cash.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by uktrailmonster
    That's a pretty hefty build for rolling XC and light DH. I reckon it's going to be close to 40 lbs all up. You are a big lad though, so at least it's not going to fall apart! You'd have to swap out pretty much the entire bike to get it down into the low-mid 30s. Those wheel rims are 716g a piece for a start! So I'd go for a lighter wheelset (eg. Crossmax XL), a lighter fork and possibly an air shock. The rest is all going to be a few grams for a load of cash.
    Well the intent was to get something I can still romp on, but still throw some xc tread on and go for some 10-20 mile rides if none of the boy's are up to riding the DH stuff when I'm off. I was pedaling around a full blown DH bike, Faith 1 with 888 up front and still keeping up a good pace, that was at least 8-10lbs heavier than this and with the manueverability of a single crown is going to be helpful. I'll see what I can tinker with on the spreadsheet with the companies I can work with on cost, maybe get it to 35 lbs. 35lbs would be just fine, I haven't had a bike under 40lbs in 3 years lol...

    Also, I didn't want an xc bike, or even the air sprung younger brother of this as I stated, I'm heavy, and I still ride aggressively, xc or Dh, I have that plow and charge mentality lol.

  15. #15
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    I can get a decent deal on either Nokian or WTB tires, what do you guys suggest? I was looking at the Nokian NBX 2.3 folding bead, or the WTB Mutano Rapter 2.4's? Any other suggestions? I was thinking one set of tires for xc, and one set for FR/DH, I have no problems swapping out tires. I'm not to fond of skinny tires though, so I'm looking at the 2.2-2.3's for xc and 2.5's for DH

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reamer
    I can get a decent deal on either Nokian or WTB tires, what do you guys suggest? I was looking at the Nokian NBX 2.3 folding bead, or the WTB Mutano Rapter 2.4's? Any other suggestions? I was thinking one set of tires for xc, and one set for FR/DH, I have no problems swapping out tires. I'm not to fond of skinny tires though, so I'm looking at the 2.2-2.3's for xc and 2.5's for DH
    Mutanos are good, but mine wore very quickly, which I didnt expect. Turns out the bike came with the heavier wire-bead version which isnt made anymore. They are cheap, so I'd give 'em a shot. They may or may not survive being on the rear, the sidewalls are not hd enough for rough use. I use Kenda 1.2mm 2.35-2.7 hd tube for these. I have a wirebead T-wolf 2.5 for dh, the race version might make a good front.

    Now, I'm running a 2.35 Minion DHR 60a wirebead on the rear (850g), but with a lighter tube because its a pretty small tire. I would NOT recommend the softer compounds on the rear, rolls too slow and wears fast... Just bought a Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.4 for the front. So far, so good on that one, only 635g, nice big volume tire, using a Kenda hd tube to give the big tire a little more support. Does not look like a good rear tire, won't last.

    On the list to try: Panaracer Fire FR 2.4, IRC Trailbear 2.5 ($20 at Bluesky, less than 800g). Maybe a Weirwolf...

    I have a 36 lb Giant AC w/ an '06 Boxxer Ride, its seeming tough to find big, lightish tires that will perform well and last more than 200 miles, even with a dh wheelset/tires that spares the xc setup major abuse.

    You might want to consider lighter rims for an xc wheelset, like dt 5.1s, Salsa Delgado, those new Rhythm rims, or the Mavic F519s are being closed out for $29 @ Cambria, same as the 719s for way more $$$. That'll save you a lot of weight, too. I have a "rocky mountain" ft 20mm Hub for $40 from Cambria, I'll probably get a Hadley rear when my xt craps out. It has some play, so that'll be soon.
    Last edited by davec113; 08-02-2006 at 07:16 AM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113
    Mutanos are good, but mine wore very quickly, which I didnt expect. Turns out the bike came with the heavier wire-bead version which isnt made anymore. They are cheap, so I'd give 'em a shot. They may or may not survive being on the rear, the sidewalls are not hd enough for rough use. I use Kenda 1.2mm 2.35-2.7 hd tube for these. I have a wirebead T-wolf 2.5 for dh, the race version might make a good front.

    Now, I'm running a 2.35 Minion DHR 60a wirebead on the rear (850g), but with a lighter tube because its a pretty small tire. I would NOT recommend the softer compounds on the rear, rolls too slow and wears fast... Just bought a Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.4 for the front. So far, so good on that one, only 635g, nice big volume tire, using a Kenda hd tube to give the big tire a little more support. Does not look like a good rear tire, won't last.

    On the list to try: Panaracer Fire FR 2.4, IRC Trailbear 2.5 ($20 at Bluesky, less than 800g). Maybe a Weirwolf...

    I have a 36 lb Giant AC w/ an '06 Boxxer Ride, its seeming tough to find big, lightish tires that will perform well and last more than 200 miles, even with a dh wheelset/tires that spares the xc setup major abuse.

    You might want to consider lighter rims for an xc wheelset, like dt 5.1s, Salsa Delgado, those new Rhythm rims, or the Mavic F519s are being closed out for $29 @ Cambria, same as the 719s for way more $$$. That'll save you a lot of weight, too. I have a "rocky mountain" ft 20mm Hub for $40 from Cambria, I'll probably get a Hadley rear when my xt craps out. It has some play, so that'll be soon.
    Any experience with hutchinson's? That's another brand I get a discount on...

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reamer
    Any experience with hutchinson's? That's another brand I get a discount on...
    never went UST... If you wanna try it, get Mavic 819, or those Rhythm rims are supposed to be UST, wide, and maybe 500g w/rim strip (not out yet). I'm waiting for my F519s to go before I decide on the UST thing...
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  19. #19
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    ride more eat less. Nothing lightens a ride like less pilot mass. Cheaper too, less food = more $$$ for upgrades.

    Also depending on where you are give a Stan's kit a look see. With the ole rotating mass less is best.
    Try this: HTFU

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reamer
    I can get a decent deal on either Nokian or WTB tires, what do you guys suggest? I was looking at the Nokian NBX 2.3 folding bead, or the WTB Mutano Rapter 2.4's? Any other suggestions? I was thinking one set of tires for xc, and one set for FR/DH, I have no problems swapping out tires. I'm not to fond of skinny tires though, so I'm looking at the 2.2-2.3's for xc and 2.5's for DH
    I have been very happy with Nokian NBX lite 2.2 ,540g and some light tubes and for wider
    tires Continental Vertical 2.5 740g .
    Nokians are my dry season or summer tires and it feels like plane taking off when I change
    to them.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reamer
    Well the intent was to get something I can still romp on, but still throw some xc tread on and go for some 10-20 mile rides if none of the boy's are up to riding the DH stuff when I'm off. I was pedaling around a full blown DH bike, Faith 1 with 888 up front and still keeping up a good pace, that was at least 8-10lbs heavier than this and with the manueverability of a single crown is going to be helpful. I'll see what I can tinker with on the spreadsheet with the companies I can work with on cost, maybe get it to 35 lbs. 35lbs would be just fine, I haven't had a bike under 40lbs in 3 years lol...

    Also, I didn't want an xc bike, or even the air sprung younger brother of this as I stated, I'm heavy, and I still ride aggressively, xc or Dh, I have that plow and charge mentality lol.
    Sounds like it'll suit you fine then. I still don't think you're going to get it anywhere close to 35 lbs without a total rethink of the build though. It looks like a 40 lb rig on paper to me at the moment. My trailbike weighs 33 lbs and every single component on it, including the frame, is considerably lighter than what you're talking about.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reamer
    I can get a decent deal on either Nokian or WTB tires, what do you guys suggest? I was looking at the Nokian NBX 2.3 folding bead, or the WTB Mutano Rapter 2.4's? Any other suggestions? I was thinking one set of tires for xc, and one set for FR/DH, I have no problems swapping out tires. I'm not to fond of skinny tires though, so I'm looking at the 2.2-2.3's for xc and 2.5's for DH
    I've been running Nokian 2.3's all summer and like them. Nokians are noted for having relatively low rolling resistance, which is probably more important than weight.
    "Don't criticize what you can't understand."

  23. #23
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    Definitely the fork...

    Quote Originally Posted by Reamer
    the fox 36 is 1,000 grams lighter than the 66 but specialized was fresh out at the warehouse and had a killer blow outdeal on the 1's.
    Definitely seems like the fork is the best place to drop the most weight. Z1 Lite might be another candidate? Probably save you a pound or even 2. Looks like you can also drop a couple hundred grams with a Hone 600 crankset. I just bought a Hope Pro II rear hub and it's great - mid-expensive, but light and strong. On the spec your front hub weighs the same as the rear? Doesn't sound quite right, but if it is, a pair of Pro IIs would drop another 250g and give you a nice upgrade.

    Nice build regardless, you're psyched.

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