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  1. #1
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    Trouble getting tubeless wheel to seal, fat tire narrow rim...

    So I have mounted a continental TK 2.4 UST on the front wheel of a 2005 UST Mavic crossmaxXL and I canít get the bead to completely seal.

    I am able to in inflate it with just a floor pump just fine, so there are no issues there. I used like 2 ounces of Stans and worked diligently shaking the wheel, then letting is sit, rotating a bit, more shaking, letting is sit, rotate a bit more and more shaking.

    I do this over the course of many hours, letting it sit gets the stans to pool in the bottom and then eventually I have shaken the wheel with the maximum puddle of stans around the whole circumference of the wheel and I still am seeping from the bead. Soapy water shows that the bead seeps air for the majority of the circumference.

    If I fill it to 60ish Psi, in two days it will be down to 20 or so.

    I have a non ust TK 2.2 on the rear and although I had to use an air tank to fill it, once the stans got worked in and sealed the pores of the tire, that tire holds air much better than the full on UST, 2.4 version I have on the front.

    I am starting to think it is an issue with the rim width, I believe the internal width of my wheels are 19mm, a bit narrow by today's standards for a tire of this size.

    Has anyone else had this issue?

  2. #2
    usually cranky
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    sometimes you just need to ride it to really work the tire and stans.

  3. #3
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    Thanks,

    I have already ridden it hard a few times, I can still hear a fair amount of sealant sloshing around so I think I am still good there.

  4. #4
    usually cranky
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    some rims and tire just dont work together. i got my wtb tubless on a mavic no problem but could even air up a conti on a mavic. my guess is the old rim has a hook that doesn't want to mesh with the ust bead.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul View Post
    some rims and tire just dont work together. i got my wtb tubless on a mavic no problem but could even air up a conti on a mavic. my guess is the old rim has a hook that doesn't want to mesh with the ust bead.
    Both tire and rim are the UST standard by the way...

  6. #6
    usually cranky
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    well then that's pretty weird. out of spec bead maybe?

  7. #7
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    Re: Trouble getting tubeless wheel to seal, fat tire narrow rim...

    I'm wondering if it because I have such narrow rims, I'm trying a different shaking method in hopes to get the stands to the bead better.

  8. #8
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    i just set up a specialized ground control with control casing, tubeless ready bead, on a wtb i23 rim.
    i set the bead, then popped part of it, added stans, then re set the bead again. aired tire to 35 psi shook around put back on bike and let it sit overnight.
    it was down to about 15 the next day. aired it up to 30 and did just some mellow riding around the neighborhood, the following day the pressure was sitting at about 28, in my eyes, that is success!
    set it up, ride it, if there are still issues then worry about it, like b-kul said, sometimes you just have to ride it.
    Juice

  9. #9
    usually cranky
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    Quote Originally Posted by innovator8 View Post
    I'm wondering if it because I have such narrow rims, I'm trying a different shaking method in hopes to get the stands to the bead better.
    dont think so. i have a 2.3 prowlers ss (which is pretty close to a true 2.3) set up tubeless on a 17mm internal width rim. pretty sure that factor doesnt matter.

  10. #10
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    add another ounce of Stan's?

    I had kind of a ***** mounting some recent excavators to light-bicycle carbon rims. Tires were loose initially, no way they would even air up. Ditched stan's tape in favor for Bonty tubeless rim strips - these made the fit tighter and could air up but still not perfect. I kept airing and shaking until air loss was minimal. This took a few good rides also, and a few applications of sealant throughout. (I think I ended up with 4 ounces front/2 ounces rear)

  11. #11
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    Re: Trouble getting tubeless wheel to seal, fat tire narrow rim...

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    add another ounce of Stan's?

    I had kind of a ***** mounting some recent excavators to light-bicycle carbon rims. Tires were loose initially, no way they would even air up. Ditched stan's tape in favor for Bonty tubeless rim strips - these made the fit tighter and could air up but still not perfect. I kept airing and shaking until air loss was minimal. This took a few good rides also, and a few applications of sealant throughout. (I think I ended up with 4 ounces front/2 ounces rear)
    Damn! They're goes the weight savings! I usually stick two ounces on, I'm trying out s new shaking method in hopes to get more sealant inn the bead, we will see.thanks.

  12. #12
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    Sealant isn't solid weight, so when it comes to accelerating and decelerating, it isn't gram for gram the same as having a tube in there. Give a boiled egg and raw one quick spins on a table to see this principle clearly in practice.

    Since the rim and tire are both UST, this goes against all rulebooks but have you tried adding tape around the rim? It could be that the BSD of the wheel is just a slight bit small for the bead of the tire. One tell-tale sign of a poor BSD fit is that the tire bead pops on at a low pressure and is easy to dismount after inflating.

    I think 19 mm is too narrow for 2.4 tires. I had 19 mm rims with a 2.35 tire on my 29er and already felt very squirmy at the pressures I was running (I weigh below 160 lbs), and switching to 21 mm rims was a major improvement.

  13. #13
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    Re: Trouble getting tubeless wheel to seal, fat tire narrow rim...

    Good information, thanks, I have not tried any tape, I know I'm pushing it with this old narrow rim and fatty tire. I think it's doing better with the new way I'm shaking it, basically rocking it attempting to get the stans to touch the bead better. I guess even if it does still loose around half its psi over a two day period, that's not a show stopper, I only ride for 4 hours at a time.

  14. #14
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    If youre dead set on getting this combo to work try this. With the cap on the bottle shake the hell out of it and then let the bottle of stans sit upside down for 10 minutes. Prep your tire for adding stans, break the seal or what not.

    Keep the bottle upside down and give it a bit of shaking but not so much to evenly distribute the particles as you would normally. Dump and extra 2 scoops into the tire. Shake, rotate and let it sit on one side over night. Spin the wheel periodically to distribute the sealant a few times throughout night. Do the same for the other side the next day.

    If this doesn't work, ditch the combo and maybe move to a smaller tire. Should be easy to sell the TK if needed.

  15. #15
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    Re: Trouble getting tubeless wheel to seal, fat tire narrow rim...

    Thanks, I may add some more sealant, but the letting the tire sit on its side doesn't really do anything for the bead, as the side wall of the tire sits lower than the bead. That trick is only for non tubeless tires that are porous right?

  16. #16
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    Dupe

  17. #17
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    Yes and no.. If you think the bead is the issue then setting I on its side will also allow the sealant to drip down off of the middle of the rim and collect right at the bead/rim interface. You gotta shake it around a good deal becore doing this. At this point worth a shot, no?

    But yeah, it works to pool the sealant at the sidewall for pin holes too.

  18. #18
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    Re: Trouble getting tubeless wheel to seal, fat tire narrow rim...

    Ok, good call.

  19. #19
    OMG!
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    get a new tire?

  20. #20
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    Re: Trouble getting tubeless wheel to seal, fat tire narrow rim...

    So with the new way I have been shaking/rocking my tire to get the stands to the bead it's working much better. I used to lose 40psi in two days, more it's like 9psi in two days. This is acceptable.

  21. #21
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    I've done three sets on Stan's rims, and my wife's dt Swiss (Stan's kit) and if you can seat the bead, you can seal it. On the conversion I had some trouble, you just have to do the shake method, stick it on a bucket/box flip and repeat. And I mean repeat. I did it probably 4 times per side, a bunch of shaking. If you add soapy water to the outside of the bead while it's laying flat you can see the leaks. Patience is key. Pumped hers up to 40 and had negligible loss.
    Transition TransAM 29er
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