Stanchion scratch fix?
What's the best way to fix scratches on stanchions?
2011 Specialized Enduro Comp - Lyrik RC2 DH
How deep ? Surface scuff or real scratch ? I have both and want to fix them too, for cosmetic and durability.
Originally Posted by slimat99
I know you can use the nail filling epoxy that get transparent and rock hard, then sand off, fill again, sand off, etc till it get smooth for the deep scratch, but for surface one, don't know... Maybe a buffer and wax treatment type will do ? Like for car ?
Originally Posted by NicoleB28
I have scratches, but nothing too deep. I've heard of a number of different techniques but I'de love to hear from someone that has a tried and true technique.
Originally Posted by David C
There was a thread about this where the specific metal epoxy, forget the name, was discussed at length. However, depends on how bad the scratch is. I have a light scuff on my revelation from about a year and a half ago. Deep enough to feel with your fingernail but I've had absolutely zero ill effects from it. No air or oil leak and no dirt transmitted below the wiper seals. Leave it alone for a bit and see if it doesn't require any work.
I've fixed at least 4 scratches on my forks. Here's my method:
1) if the metal is lifted around the scratch use a jewelers file to knock it down a bit.
2) fill with super glue or nail polish
3) use super super fine wet sandpaper...use water (2500 grit?) or emery cloth to sand down the glue. I take a strip and grab it with both hand from behind the scratch and lightly pull back and forth. When I have used finger pressure on the scratch I seem to remove the glue from the scratch, plus you risk sanding down the ano.
4) repeat 2 and 3 as needed. Take your time.
When done correctly you won't even be able to detect the scratch with your fingernail.
Good luck. It's really easy peasy.
Super glue sounds great. I tried fingernail polish and it fell out.
I've only tried nail polish once and sold the fork so I can't speak to the longevity of that stuff. I will say the Super Glue has worked for me long-term. I think I even used the gel type once.
Originally Posted by Huck Pitueee
So you told the buyer about the repair?
Originally Posted by eatdrinkride
Ibis Mojo 3
Carver 420 TI
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If you don't have sand/buffing paper...and/or are not able to get a hold of any:
- those trapezoid industrial razor blades (1 should do, but may want a spare)
- JB Weld (I like this because its intended use is in a bit harsher of an environment)
- thick, non-flexing packing tape (the clear stuff works best)
- a Bic lighter
- rubbing alcohol
**This method works well for pits and channels, not so much for rash'd area**
**NOTE: if the scratch is too deep, you basically have a stress riser in the weakest part of the fork. Use your better judgement here and replace if necessary. You can minimize the stress by rotating the scratch to face the other stanchion, but it's only a temp fix.
1. Clean the scratched area w/ alcohol (you can leave the fork assembled, but be careful the alcohol doesn't run into the seals)
2. Use the razor to "shave" the raised metal around the scratch down. High carbon steel is WAY harder than aluminum so it'll do just fine. Baby steps here!
3. Clean w/ alcohol again
4. Mix the appropriate amount of JB Weld
5. Dab on the scratch. Don't over-dose the area...shoot for must enough.
6. Heat up the wet JB Weld by holding the flame from the Bic BESIDE the epoxy. This will get out air bubbles trapped under the glue and flow the glue into the nooks and crannies.
7. Pull off a piece of the packing tape large enough to cover the scratch w/ a good bit of spare tape around the working area. This requires a bit of "touch"... Seal one side of tape against the stanchion. Then, just let the tape flop over the glue/scratch. Try to match the radius of the stanchion w/out pulling on the tape. Then seal the other side. If you've put in enough glue, you'll see NO trapped air bubble under the tape, and the glue will ooze beyond the scratch under the unanchored side of the tape as you seal that side up. Don't worry about this. Let the glue cure for 24 hours.
8. When cured after 24 hours, pull the tape off and you'll have something very close to the curvature of the stanchion. Take your razor blade again and shave off the over-run of excess glue. It may just fleck off as it doesn't like to stick to ano'd surface. But when it comes to the actual scratched area, draw the blade of the razor backwards across the glue to smooth.
Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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Thanks for all the info! I've heard of the nail polish and super glue, but not the jb weld fix.
I also tried normal nail polish but they felf off easily when I sanding it......
A female friend of mine send me a set of nail polish and a UV lamp. those nail polish will be hardened when exposed to UV, and they filled the scratch perfectly.
also it olny takes 2 mins to be hardened, no overnight waiting.
I have put many trouble free years on a deep scratch repaired with JB weld and then sanded smooth with water and 1500grit sandpaper. If you have a slightly deeper scratch this is the proper way to repair it, just make sure you take your time and do it right.
the key with any adhesive /filler fix is to make sure the surface is clean and free of oil. multiple cleanings with alcohol or acetone is recommended. Do not get acetone on the seals. I have used the JB trick on a badly scored dirtbike fork with success. i also lightly scuff the edges with very fine emery cloth for adhesion. After removing the excess and smoothing the repair, i used some turtle wax swirl and scratch remover to polish the surface of the JB. Held up great. like they said, be patient and take your time.
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