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  1. #76
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    id stick with the 10. rca looks better than tad.

  2. #77
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    rca better than tad

    in what way does it look better?
    Better in quality?
    better in the name?
    or better in looks?

  3. #78
    What?
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    Quote Originally Posted by stormeporm View Post
    in what way does it look better?
    Better in quality?
    better in the name?
    or better in looks?
    The RCA is a much better damper then what comes in the TAD. Your better off with what they sent you.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by stormeporm View Post
    in what way does it look better?
    Better in quality?
    better in the name?
    or better in looks?
    rca has a shim stack damper very similar to a micro tst. tad on the other hand has a rather primitive damper similar to other low end stuff.

  5. #80
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    Dunno why they can't have a tad with rca damper.

    Got the RCA version of the forks last week for my brothers bottlerocket, they came set at 140 travel tho for some reason. Changed them today up to 180mm travel pin was quite hard to knock out but Nicholas had some tips for that, otherwise they are very easy to take apart and put back together. I think if we were to take them down to 160 we would just use some spacers rather than fiddle with the pin again.

    The qloc seems very nice but the button can get quite stiff when dirt/sand gets into it. Hopefully spare parts wont be too hard to get for them here in NZ like the newer dust seals for them.

  6. #81
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    rca

    I'll stick with the 2010 rca
    Your sure the 2011 TAD doesn't has a new damper.

    Which side of the vork do I need to open to change the travel?
    180 is a bit to long for my frame.

    btw is there a sf11 rca edition or is the sf11 only in tad?
    Last edited by stormeporm; 06-22-2011 at 01:08 AM.

  7. #82
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    Suntour does in fact make some decent forks...

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by stormeporm View Post
    I'll stick with the 2010 rca
    Your sure the 2011 TAD doesn't has a new damper.

    Which side of the vork do I need to open to change the travel?
    180 is a bit to long for my frame.

    btw is there a sf11 rca edition or is the sf11 only in tad?


    Thank you for the great feedback,
    Im sorry I didn't answer you right away but I just saw this in my e-mail.

    The RCA is great because it has simple adjustment for rebound and compression.
    As for the TAD Im very sorry I have never seen one or even looked into it because my interest was in the RCA.

    As for the internal travel adjust its on the left side if you were sitting on the bike which is the air spring.
    On the air's rod is a top out negative spring with a black head and a pin running through it.
    There is also 3 holes on the rod giving you the adjustments of 140mm on the lower hole, 160mm on the middle and 180mm on the top hole.
    If you had a spacer of say 10mm you could actually do a 180-170-160-150-140-130 giving you lots of adjustment.

    My Durolux is set at 135mm right now and on my Double its awesome.
    Light very responsive and rides really light.
    I love it and loved even more, hahahhahahah

    Yesterday I went for a short 2 hour street session and the fork saw lots of jumps drops and other fun taking it like any top end fork should. hhahahah

    RidEOn man.
    Your English is great and don't bother asking anything.
    If not I someone will answer you properly.

    Please enjoy your new fork!

  9. #84
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    Change length

    Hi Nicholas and everybody else who is kind enough to reply

    Do I need to open it from the top to get acces to the rod.
    Or do I need to remove the lower legs?
    And if I need to remove the lower legs is it -+ the same as the video for the "Convert travel of Axon & Epicon" on the video manual page from suntour which I cant link to because I've just joined this forum.
    Or if you have the time for it could you sum up in which order I need to unscrew what?

    Btw I was mailing with suntour about the sf11 and they told my you can put an rca damper in the sf11 tad (which is an sf9 with an tapered steere) not that I'm planning on doing it (i already have the rca) butI was wondering if you replace it with an rca do you lose the possibility to adjust your travel on the fly? Or will you get the best of both worlds?


    Thanks in advance.
    Its great to have a community that helps you out.

    Wybren

    PS I will ride on (as soon as I have my fork lowered )

  10. #85
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    Its from the bottom, you have to take the legs off.

    Not much to unscrew just the two bolts at he base of each leg then the cap on the bottom of the stanction that keeps the rod in and thats it. Hardest bit is the pushing out of the pin.

    With RCA and TAD they are different, RCA is a damper and TAD airspring, TAD on rca fork would have the best of both worlds.

  11. #86
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    thnx helltoupee

    Do I have to give the 2 bolds a polite hit with an plastic hammer after unscrewing it a bit and then the rest or is just unscrewing it enough?

    And do need to get the oil out first or is the oil only in the upper part?
    And if I need to do so is it wise to have some extra oil around to fill up the maybe spilled oil.
    What kind of oil do you recommend to do so mineral or synthetic.
    Is it the same oil as in your car engine or something special.
    Its around 15 degrees now in Holland.

    Sorry for being a noob when it comes to forks this is the first fork I'm going to service myself. And hope fully there are more to come.

    thanks again
    Wybren
    Last edited by stormeporm; 06-22-2011 at 12:34 PM. Reason: spelling

  12. #87
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    Unscrewing them is enough i found.

    Most oils in the damper which is self contained theres just a bit of oil to lube things in the spring side shouldn't really spill anywhere i dunno what the oil types in there are. I

  13. #88
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    cool I have time tomorrow to change my fork.
    Thanks I'l keep you posted

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by stormeporm View Post
    cool I have time tomorrow to change my fork.
    Thanks I'l keep you posted
    Yes, you need to first unscrew the 2 bolts on either side and you might need to hit them slightly, mine too came out easily.

    then take off take off the lower legs and there is no oil in the bottom or oil that would fly around but just incase take the lowers off slowly and have an oil pan underneath which is always a good measure when working on suspension.

    with the lowers off you will see the stanchions and the 2 rods sticking out.
    looking at the front the RCA damper is on the left and the air spring rod is on the right.

    release any air in the air spring and remove the top cap.
    inside this chamber is the grease lubrication.
    I use slick honey throughout the entire fork and scram 5wt oil in the RCA damper assembly.

    Next you will push the air rod from the bottom all the way out of the fork.
    you will need something long and skinny to push it through the forks stanchions and do this over the oil pan for sure as the grease will come out in excess.

    once you push it all the way through you can try wiping off as much oil or grease as you would like to save. If you buy some slick honey just you will have enough to reassemble the fork.

    Wipe the entire air rod clean as if its sticky and slippery its hard to work on.

    you will then have a clean air rod.
    The very top has a black head the comes off and this is the air piston that seals the air in the system making the positive air chamber.

    looking down you will then see the air rods negative coil spring.
    This spring allows for a great balance between the positive and negative forces making a smooth acting fork.

    just above the negative spring there is a black head with a pin running through it.
    this is the travel adjust top out.

    you can lower your fork 2 way.

    -first remove the pin and lower the black head to the second hole for 160mm or to the 3rd hole for 140mm
    this is the standard manual way suntour has set up and a very simple effective system.

    -second you add a spacer, I use pvc piping or plastic plumbing piping and cut a 10mm 20mm 30mm however you want to lower the fork.
    You would place this spacer in-between the black head and the negative spring.
    this will lower the fork all the same as moving the pin.

    I recommend the first way as its suntours special set up.

    to remove the pin you will need a punch or something that fits on the lip of the pin and will push through the hole.

    I used a small screw and pushed the pin through in my vice.
    I placed a small socket on one end to catch the pin and then the screw on the other end and pushed it through in the vice.

    Or you can just hammer it through.
    but , you need something on the other end with a hole to allow the pin to go all the way through.

    a small piece of a 2x4 with a hole in it will work great.

    after you remove the pin at your desired setting.
    grease the rod and build her up!

    I use slick honey grease and I add a lot to keep the system lubed very well.

    Make sure everything is tight and the fork should be a smooth runner!


    RideOn Stormeporm

  15. #90
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    how does this fork compare to a rs totem, marz 66, fox 36float?
    2011 transition 250
    2009 DB scapegoat

  16. #91
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    The Durolux is just as burly with thick 35mm legs.
    Its chassis is very stout and the overall ride is just as smooth.

    I have had 3 66's and they were always strong and very smooth.
    The open bath coil has a very unique feel but due to the sloshing of oil can feel sluggish if set up improperly.

    I am also riding a 180 36 now and the durolux has the same air spring system.
    So, the overall ride is 90% the same.
    The fit cartridge is very smooth but the RCA on the Durolux suits my needs awesome.

  17. #92
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    Hi thanks Nicholas for the superb explanation.
    I'm going to change the fork this afternoon.

    You guys rock! with out your help this would be quite a gamble for me.

  18. #93
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    RideOn dude!

    Please post a picture of your bike when complete!!

  19. #94
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    Woot i've got it done.
    With your explainations it was quite easy.
    I tried at first to push the rod out at the top but the air piston got stuck so I tried what helltoupee said and that worked (unscrew the bottom cap and pul the rod out of the bottom)
    I've done some test rides yesterday around the house an took some stairs up and down but Iím taking her to the mud this evening.
    Man this vork is super plush and way stiffer than my old fork. Which is telling more about the old one than the new one I think (duke 2004 SL which was beyond replacement)

    I was wondering how big is the difference between the compression knob full open or closed this because I didnít notice much of a difference.

    And if you go riding do you remove the rebound adjustment knob? this because I list mine yesterday.
    Probably because I turned it and didn't push it in afterwards (I found it back this morning )

    For pictures check these links (you have to copy paste them because I cant post links yet)
    staff.science.uva.nl/~wbuijs/DSC04026.JPG
    staff.science.uva.nl/~wbuijs/DSC04028.JPG

    Its an on one 456 frame with an slacker head angle so you can downhill and take a sip of water at the same time
    Last edited by stormeporm; 06-24-2011 at 07:12 AM. Reason: spelling

  20. #95
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    Sounds great brother!
    Im glad we were able to help.
    And yes this fork is super plush!!!!

    The bottom cap you unscrewed to pulled out the rod can come lose again so make sure its tight.
    As for the rebound I put a black o-ring on there and that keeps her in very tight!

    The fork is a smooth sailer and I hope you come to love as do I.
    I will try and look at your pictures!
    RidEOn man!

  21. #96
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    add oilt to air chamber

    Hi Nicholas

    How much oil did you add to the air chamber.
    And did you replace everything with new oil plus a bit more or did you just add some to the oil already there?
    This because I'm 85 kg's and when I took a flat drop of 1 meter on the concrete I bottomed it out. This was a bit my own mistake but I thought it might be better to make sure it doesn't happen again so quickly. And I'll stop doing flats on concrete.

    I took it to the mud yesterday, This fork is totally kick ass. Super stiff and it eats everything you throw at it with a big smile on my face. Cant wait to go for a ride tomorrow.

    I've got the bottom cap in very tight, this while it went of very easy I didn't have/had (?) to apply much force to get it off.

    Greetings Wybren
    Last edited by stormeporm; 06-25-2011 at 08:11 AM. Reason: add some

  22. #97
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    Oil

    I added just enough oil or in my case grease to the air chamber to fill the inner stanchion when fully compressed.

    So, take off the top cap and compress the fork all the way.
    Then add fork oil the heavier the better.
    I added slick honey.
    Fill the inner tube up until the screws where the top cap screws in.

    This should make the fork very progressive.
    So, you will have the same plush beginning stroke but a firm bottom with out a clank.

    -Also I added more oil to the right side as well.
    Im 95 kg and have the same problem.

    The RCA damper comes apart really easy.
    Just a little more oil in you will get full stroke without a bottom out.
    However you must be very careful as too much oil will have you bottoming out way to early. Meaning you wont get full stroke.

    Try adding oil or a combo of oil and grease to the air camber.
    I would still use the original grease as its new.

    If you still get bottoming I will tell you how to overhaul the RCA damper.


    RideOn!

  23. #98
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    Thnx again.
    I hope Iíll never start annoying you your the best help ever.

    You should put this information in a wiki.
    Call it Nicholas his super suntour service wiki.
    If you donít do it I'm willing to do it for you. So I cant forget how it was done and others can read it easily.
    I'll start taking pictures the next time Iíve got my fork disassembled

    Greetings Wybren

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by stormeporm View Post
    Thnx again.
    I hope Iíll never start annoying you your the best help ever.

    You should put this information in a wiki.
    Call it Nicholas his super suntour service wiki.
    If you donít do it I'm willing to do it for you. So I cant forget how it was done and others can read it easily.
    I'll start taking pictures the next time Iíve got my fork disassembled

    Greetings Wybren


    Thank you stormeporm!

    I don't know what a wiki is but, yes if this a great source to help other people that would be great.http://forums.mtbr.com/images/smilies/smile5.gif
    Please tell me what to do or see if you put it in a Wiki!
    Also if its a proper place for documentation we can re write it to better suit its purpose!
    thank you very much!

    RideOn,
    Nicholas

  25. #100
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    My commute

    My 2 hour commute on the TBC Double equipped with the awesome

    Suntour Durolux



    My commute! on pinkbike.com





    RideOn

    Niko

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