Page 15 of 16 FirstFirst ... 5 11 12 13 14 15 16 LastLast
Results 351 to 375 of 394
  1. #351
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trojans1993's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    484
    I strongly agree - it is a fantastic post from my 2 years experience with it with no issues, but once you get it set and dialed in I wouldn't want to mess with it unless I had to. The little barrel nut that holds the cable just doesn't seem like something that should be tightened/loosened on a regular basis.

  2. #352
    J-Flo
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    542
    After 18 months my 125mm Blacklite went kaput mid-ride. Won't hold position any more, smooth motion is gone, and it feels jammed up. I assume the collet is broken. Oddly enough I could not get it open even though I have a good strap wrench. So I took it in to the shop, and am now switching a single seatpost between two bikes.

    The post has had no problems prior to this.

    The good news was that the bike was still rideable with the busted dropper post; it went down to the bottom position and I just raised the post.

  3. #353
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rollertoaster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    814
    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
    It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
    Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.
    Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.
    Team _________

  4. #354
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mestapho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,653
    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.
    Yep they warrantied mine. I sold it before ever using it again.

  5. #355
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    547
    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.
    Damn that sucks. How much is the repair going to cost?

  6. #356
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rollertoaster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    814
    They want $75 to repair and ship it. I'm not gonna do it. I'll just use another post on the bike.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
    Team _________

  7. #357
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,260
    So it's maintenance time on my blacklite. I made the mistake on my old (gen 1) command post of removing the white bushing and getting the seal head stuck in the channel. Had to send to specialized to fix that one. I want to clean the blacklite and lube the seal head with a lighter lube for better cold weather action. If I keep the white bushing in place, would the sealhead be able to slide over this to be removed, cleaned, re-lubed, and reinstalled?

    Or is it pretty much just not a good idea to remove the seal head from the post without have specialized's special seal head reinstallation tool?

  8. #358
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    31
    Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?

  9. #359
    Armature speller
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    436

    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by turbo1397 View Post
    Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?
    Grease too thick? Air pressure too low?

    It's a normal shifter cable.

  10. #360
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    547
    Quote Originally Posted by turbo1397 View Post
    Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?
    No pictures handy but for the noodle removal, you would just remove it and replace the 2 piece housing with one continuous run from the lever to the seatpost. Basically it would look like a derailleur installation.
    As for the inner cable, any mtb derailleur cable will work fine. Since you want to remove the noodle, you can probably just go get a replacement housing/cable.
    Something like this or similar
    Clarks Stainless Steel Universal Derailleur Cables -

  11. #361
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,260
    I replaced mine with these. Easy swap over... remove old noodle, replace with this: U Z Bike Stainless "Flexie" Flexible V Brake Noodle 2pcs Set Black | eBay

    I think they are the same thing KS uses with their posts.

  12. #362
    mtbr member
    Reputation: innovator8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    326
    So what is the best kind of grease to lube up these things? Mine functioned great for a for like 9 months with the stock grease in it, and once it started to get stick, I took it apart and cleaned and lubed with wheel bearing grease and it required cleaning again after just a couple of months.

    Thanks

  13. #363
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    279
    I believe Slick Honey is the preferred choice and that's what I have used. But, I wouldn't say it that is the only choice.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  14. #364
    Oh, I've GOT bike money
    Reputation: JACKL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    443
    Mine requires a few drops of stanchion lube every 3 or 4 rides, or whenever I wash the bike. Otherwise it gets slow to return and eventually won't go to the top position. When it was a year old I took it apart and re-greased it with bearing grease. I still need to use the stanchion lube.

    No complaints, as it otherwise works flawlessly.

  15. #365
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    148
    I've had zero issues with mine over two years now, riding through a pair of stoopid wet Northwest Winters included. It's one of the few bike parts I've paid full retail on (more for warranty piece of mind...) and I'm about to do it again as my new frame takes a 31.6 so my Chameleon SS just got a dropper post....I'm going to do the flexy stainless noodle repalcement. One thing that really helped me especially in the PNWet was switching the cable out to a Jagwire teflon coated cable. I'm sure any teflon coated shifter cable will work, but it really helped my unit.

    In the end I feel better using a mechanical unit that can be raised to full extension if something goes sideways vs. hydraulic fail drop done.

    On that note - anyone selling a 31.6 sized Command Post get in touch, I'm in the market for one now and less reluctant to buy used now that they've got a history and the known bugs and fixes are out there. Cash in hand $$$, you selling? I'm buying!

  16. #366
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    6
    hi people!
    is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6

  17. #367
    Keep on Rockin...
    Reputation: Miker J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,119
    Quote Originally Posted by cka3o4nuk View Post
    hi people!
    is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6
    I've done it without problem.

  18. #368
    mtbr member
    Reputation: LaCostaClydesdale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    38
    Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

    I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.
    Specialized 2012 Stumpjumper FSR 29er
    Trek 2011 Hifi Plus 29er
    Specialized 1995 RockHopper

  19. #369
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    279
    Well, I'm sure you could if you were a machinist and could machine an additional groove inside for the collett to engage.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  20. #370
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    3,491
    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

    I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.
    I need a new dropper and I'm debating another Blacklite or a Gravity dropper. I don't like infinite ones. The interesting thing I found with the GD is that you can chose to have the middle position be a 1 inch or 2 inch drop. I've been thinking that a 2 inch drop might be nice.

    If I can't find someone to trade blacklites with I may go with GD.
    13 Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  21. #371
    Keep on Rockin...
    Reputation: Miker J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,119

    Droppers....

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    I need a new dropper and I'm debating another Blacklite or a Gravity dropper. I don't like infinite ones. The interesting thing I found with the GD is that you can chose to have the middle position be a 1 inch or 2 inch drop. I've been thinking that a 2 inch drop might be nice.

    If I can't find someone to trade blacklites with I may go with GD.
    Go with a 1". 2" is way too much - I know it doesn't sound like it, but it is.

    Both are great posts. I've been on GDs since they first came out. Durability is second to none. I like the Spec 'cause I like set back posts. The GD doesn't really look all that cool either.

  22. #372
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    3,491
    Might as well post here.

    Anyone have a 75mm that wants to trade for 100mm one? The 100 is too long for my new frame.
    13 Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  23. #373
    MattSavage
    Reputation: mattsavage's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    2,432
    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

    I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.
    I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever. Pedal standing up. When it's raised, you're either climbing or spinning it out on the flats. Even if your descent or technical terrain mellows out briefly, you should stay standing and be on the pedals until it either A) you climb again or B) it flattens out and is mellow for an extended period.

    Why manufacturers put a silly in the middle position makes zero sense to me. There is no middle ground when it comes to proper fit and proper technique. ATMO...
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  24. #374
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    279
    I like the middle position when descending less technical terrain, or descending fast on smooth terrain. I also use it while pedaling really techy terrain either climbing or sorta flat.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  25. #375
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    3,491
    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever. Pedal standing up. When it's raised, you're either climbing or spinning it out on the flats. Even if your descent or technical terrain mellows out briefly, you should stay standing and be on the pedals until it either A) you climb again or B) it flattens out and is mellow for an extended period.

    Why manufacturers put a silly in the middle position makes zero sense to me. There is no middle ground when it comes to proper fit and proper technique. ATMO...
    Maybe you should ride the way you want to and the rest of us will ride the way we should.

    But thanks for trying to tell me how to ride like you.
    13 Lenz Lunchbox punkass

Page 15 of 16 FirstFirst ... 5 11 12 13 14 15 16 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •