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  1. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by kubikeman View Post
    Really? I was afraid to hit it too hard with anything. And I definitely don't have the hand strength to do it. Care to elaborate?
    I forget what I did, but I had the same feeling you did, that I was screwed.

    I think I wrapped it with something to help grip it and just muscled it back into place.

    Try a strap wrench maybe?

  2. #327
    Spring! Spring! Spring!
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    FWIW, I had the remote for mine self destruct after about four months of use - the axle the lever turns on simply disintegrated. I used a cotter-pin for a while but it wasn't super solid and eventually got more and more sloppy.

    I found a Kind Shock remote kit off eBay and used that and it works better than the Specialized remote ever did, looks better, and fits better with my non-specialized grips, etc. Comes in colors too. Not the least expensive add on for sure, but is a ton better built for sure. The 'noodle' it comes with is MUCH better too, less resistance and more flexible AND once you get the tension dialed in with the barrell adjuster it locks in place.

    Too bad I just discovered some of my collet 'teeth' are broken within the post. Argh.

  3. #328
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    I recently went 1x10 on my bikes and the shifters I bought came in pairs so I had extra left shifters sitting around. They are Shimano XTR shifters with the 2/3 selector. So I opened one up and discovered that you can mod it(not permanent and totally reversible) so that when you push the lower gear selector, it won't go into 2nd or 3rd gear so its basically just like a big lever(upper gear release lever doesn't do anything now. You can push it but nothing happens). I hooked this up to my command post so now the left shifters activates my dropper post. Works so much better than the one that came with the post and looks cleaner too. The only downside is that the shifter weighs like 70 grams more than the lever that came with the post.

  4. #329
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    Thanks bear and pwu - glad to know there are other options for the lever. So far I have had great luck with the stock lever, Teflon cable and noodle I modified for a more gentle curve. I've been riding my CP pretty hard for over a year now and no issues at all. Pretty damn good post IMO.

  5. #330
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    Hi,
    I tried to clean and grease my command post blacklite tonight and I did a very stupid thing. I took the white bushing off and then slid the main seal head into the channel that the bushing was sitting in. Now I can't slide the seal head back up the post(its stuck in the channel). HELP???

  6. #331
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    Did you read the last 10 or so posts?

  7. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by kubikeman View Post
    Really? I was afraid to hit it too hard with anything. And I definitely don't have the hand strength to do it. Care to elaborate?
    Kubikeman Did you manage to get it back up the post? Any tips? or did you have to send it back to Spec? what was the cost and turnaround time?

  8. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by muito doido View Post
    Kubikeman Did you manage to get it back up the post? Any tips? or did you have to send it back to Spec? what was the cost and turnaround time?
    Nope. Still in pieces on my workbench. I couldn't get it back together myself. One of these day's I'll have to drop it off at the shop.
    The cake is a lie.

  9. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    I recently went 1x10 on my bikes and the shifters I bought came in pairs so I had extra left shifters sitting around. They are Shimano XTR shifters with the 2/3 selector. So I opened one up and discovered that you can mod it(not permanent and totally reversible) so that when you push the lower gear selector, it won't go into 2nd or 3rd gear so its basically just like a big lever(upper gear release lever doesn't do anything now. You can push it but nothing happens). I hooked this up to my command post so now the left shifters activates my dropper post. Works so much better than the one that came with the post and looks cleaner too. The only downside is that the shifter weighs like 70 grams more than the lever that came with the post.
    Great idea. +reputation. I am doing 1x10 now with XT 780 shifters.
    What do you have to mod in the shifter so it does not lock in 2/3 gears and always jump back to 1?

  10. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrozCountry View Post
    Great idea. +reputation. I am doing 1x10 now with XT 780 shifters.
    What do you have to mod in the shifter so it does not lock in 2/3 gears and always jump back to 1?
    I did the mod on the XTR shifters but I think the XTs should be the same.
    First, you shift up 1 gear to the middle gear. Then you turn the gear selector to point to the 2.
    Take the top and bottom cover off. Once the bottom cover is off, examine the selector pin closely and you should see that the pin can slide out the bottom if you turn it a certain way.
    Turn the pin and slide it all the way out(be careful not to loose the little spring).
    Once the pin is out, hit the top lever to put the gear selector back in the lowest gear(so you can put the cable in).
    Then, you'll need to figure out a way to push the spring loaded arm back and away. Then you slide the pin back and once the pin is back in position, it should hold the arm away from the detent and you will be able to push the bottom lever and it won't lock in to any gear.
    Then you just put everything back together.

  11. #336
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    I've owned my Command Post Blacklite for a little over a year now with no service required at all.

    I've done a write up here for anyone who's on the fence about purchasing one.

    Specialized Command Post Blacklite
    08 Enduro: '12 Van RC2, Push DHX 5 coil, Flow EX, Hope m4, 750mm bar, Blacklite Post.

    Website
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  12. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by camarosam View Post
    I've owned my Command Post Blacklite for a little over a year now with no service required at all.

    I've done a write up here for anyone who's on the fence about purchasing one.

    Specialized Command Post Blacklite
    Very nice write-up Sam. My history has been the same as yours, except that I found the seat angle bolt needs to be torqued per spec or it will slip. Not a big deal, but if you just use your std hex wrench, you probably won't get it tight enough.

  13. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Very nice write-up Sam. My history has been the same as yours, except that I found the seat angle bolt needs to be torqued per spec or it will slip. Not a big deal, but if you just use your std hex wrench, you probably won't get it tight enough.
    Thank you.

    Yeah I had the same problem with mine, but I always torque everything one my bike anyways. I figure for how much you spend on this stuff you might as well take it seriously and take care of it.
    08 Enduro: '12 Van RC2, Push DHX 5 coil, Flow EX, Hope m4, 750mm bar, Blacklite Post.

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  14. #339
    wal
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    I've had my Blacklite post for ~10 months and up until the last few rides, I hadn't had any issues with it. Starting a few rides ago, I started having issues with the post returning from the cruiser position to the power position. I figured I could tear it down, clean it up, re-grease and be good to go.

    So tonight, I tore it down, cleaned everything, re-greased with slick honey everywhere, put it back together, reset the height on the cable clamp, and hoped for the best. Sadly, I'm still having the same issue where it doesn't want to return from cruiser to power position. It returns just fine when going from all the way lowered to power position, but in order to get it up from cruiser I have to either lower it all the way down and return or pull up on it or bump it.

    When I had it apart, I took a look at the collett and didn't notice anything wrong there and didn't see anything else visually wrong. What else can I do to diagnose this? Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

  15. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by wal View Post
    I've had my Blacklite post for ~10 months and up until the last few rides, I hadn't had any issues with it. Starting a few rides ago, I started having issues with the post returning from the cruiser position to the power position. I figured I could tear it down, clean it up, re-grease and be good to go.

    So tonight, I tore it down, cleaned everything, re-greased with slick honey everywhere, put it back together, reset the height on the cable clamp, and hoped for the best. Sadly, I'm still having the same issue where it doesn't want to return from cruiser to power position. It returns just fine when going from all the way lowered to power position, but in order to get it up from cruiser I have to either lower it all the way down and return or pull up on it or bump it.

    When I had it apart, I took a look at the collett and didn't notice anything wrong there and didn't see anything else visually wrong. What else can I do to diagnose this? Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
    I would try the following:
    1) check the seat collar and make sure its not too tight. I've had that issue with my santa Cruz collar. I changed to a Specialized and torqued to the specified torque and no more problems. Also have used the Salsa seat collar with not problems
    2) How is the return speed. Maybe up the pressure slightly to see if it helps
    3) Adjust the barrel adjuster to put more tension on the cable. Maybe your collett is not releasing all the way in the cruiser position.
    4) You greased the shaft with it extended right? I usually just spread some grease around while the seatpost is fully extended, then cycle it a few times and wipe off any excess grease at the seal.

  16. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    2) How is the return speed. Maybe up the pressure slightly to see if it helps
    any excess grease at the seal.
    This is the first thing I'd look at.

  17. #342
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    Remember pressure is set extended
    13 Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  18. #343
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    Hey guys. I'm having the same problem. From the fully low position it will only pop up to the middle position. I have to grab and pull the seatpost to get it up to the power position. I greased it down and cleaned it up using the video. All looks good. I'll have to check the seat post collar tonight. I did notice that the seal head was hard to move up and down the shaft. Took quite bit of effort. The grease didn't seem to help it all that much. I've used this seatpost for about 3 months now. Pressure is set to 40 psi.

  19. #344
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by mmanuel09 View Post
    Hey guys. I'm having the same problem. From the fully low position it will only pop up to the middle position. I have to grab and pull the seatpost to get it up to the power position. I greased it down and cleaned it up using the video. All looks good. I'll have to check the seat post collar tonight. I did notice that the seal head was hard to move up and down the shaft. Took quite bit of effort. The grease didn't seem to help it all that much. I've used this seatpost for about 3 months now. Pressure is set to 40 psi.
    I'm going to have to clean and tee lube mine to, I also have to pull it up. I'll post if it helped after I do it.

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

  20. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by innovator8 View Post
    I'm going to have to clean and tee lube mine to, I also have to pull it up. I'll post if it helped after I do it.

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
    Did you check the seat collar? I had some issues with the collar that came on my Blur LT. Switched it to a different one and torqued to spec(I think about 5nm) and no more issues with it not returning all the way.
    Should be easy to check, just loosen the collar a little bit at a time and then check to see if you can get the post to return all the way.

    Also, if you decide to take apart the post to grease the inside it, DO NOT slide the seal past the white plastic bushing(especially if the bushing has been removed). Don't ask me how I know, haha

  21. #346
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    Yeah keep me in the look after you clean it. I'll have to check the collar tonight to see if that helps.

  22. #347
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    I've had mine for a year and a half, it's worked well. Last winter, I got rid of the grease and replaced with Mobil 1 per specialized cold weather recommendation even though i live in NorCal and ditched the stoopid noodle- it's worked flawlessly since. I ride at least 4x/week and weigh 220lbs as much as I'd like to get a hydraulic it's hard to justify until this one breaks

  23. #348
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    The new version has very light level pull, even though it looks like the same lever with the same noodle. It must be something in the post itself, like a spring change.

  24. #349
    MattSavage
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastrgrdr View Post
    I just picked up a brand new 125mm Blacklight but I haven't installed it yet. I have a 2013 Stumpjumper FSR and a 2013 Rockhopper 29er. I was thinking of buying a 2nd lever/cable and swapping the post between the bikes, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be and if the cable needs to be setup perfect or what. Any thoughts on if it is something that would be easy to do, or not worth the hassle?
    Not worth the hassle... Pony up for a complete post.
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  25. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastrgrdr View Post
    I just picked up a brand new 125mm Blacklight but I haven't installed it yet. I have a 2013 Stumpjumper FSR and a 2013 Rockhopper 29er. I was thinking of buying a 2nd lever/cable and swapping the post between the bikes, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be and if the cable needs to be setup perfect or what. Any thoughts on if it is something that would be easy to do, or not worth the hassle?
    *********************l/qu5Zsl[/img]
    There are some considerations. For correct seatpost operation, as long as you get a new lever, cable, housing, and, the little pill thingy for the cable and set it up on the other bike, you would be able to swap the post and have the post operate correctly.

    The other consideration is the seat fore/aft position and angle on the 2 bikes. If you can take the post from 1 bike to the other bike without changing the seat angle/position then I would say it would work fine. If you have to adjust the angle/position, etc, then I would say you should just get another post. I think it would be too much hassle to be changing seat position/angle every time you want to ride a different bike.

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