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  1. #251
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    Are you sure you have plenty of cable in the routing, where there's no tugging at full extension?

  2. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by fizzywater View Post
    I am now experiencing exactly the same problem. Happens about 1-3 time per ride and only while climbing steep stuff where I am scooted more forward on the saddle. Does anybody know why this happens and what the resolution is?
    I've had that a few times. It's caused by something keeping the release lever (I'm referring the the cable-actuated lever under the saddle, not the remote lever on the handlebars) from fully extending to the lock position quickly enough. Usually this means the cable or housing needs replacement or at least some lube. In one case, the lever on my post was sticking even with the cable disconnected. I dripped some triflow around the lever's pivot and that seemed to free things up again.

  3. #253
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    Anyone have experience with the locking SIP grips that come with the some of the Blacklite kits?

  4. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Anyone have experience with the locking SIP grips that come with the some of the Blacklite kits?
    Too small for me. I have a large hand and wanted them to work, but had to put my ODI Rogue's back on.

    They were a perfect fit for my 10 year old's hands.
    13 Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  5. #255
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    Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
    It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
    Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.

  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
    It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
    Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.
    I'm curious, what were you doing when the collet broke, ie, raising/lowering, and did you know immediately? Also, do you weight the seat when raising, or let it hit the stops on it's own? Did you disassemble to see the damage?

  7. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
    It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
    Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.
    Also, do you remember if it was the same piece/same general area that broke before?

  8. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    I'm curious, what were you doing when the collet broke, ie, raising/lowering, and did you know immediately? Also, do you weight the seat when raising, or let it hit the stops on it's own? Did you disassemble to see the damage?
    I didn't know immediately that it had broken again.
    I keep my butt on the seat as it travels up for the most part.
    I disassembled it to check why it wasn't working correctly again.
    The symptoms are the seat not extending without needing a tug, especially from the cruiser position to full up.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  9. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    Also, do you remember if it was the same piece/same general area that broke before?
    It was on the opposite side of the collet this time.
    The first time was the piece directly in the front.
    This time it is the piece directly in the back.


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  10. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    The symptoms are the seat not extending without needing a tug, especially from the cruiser position to full up.
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Good info, thanks!
    I see how the collet works, from the photo's on the PB review, and it looks like you may be referring to one of the fingers of the collet breaking off...correct? I can see why this "mechanical stop" takes a beating, which is why I think it's important to ease it up and down. May be the Achilles heal of the mechanical design vs hydraulic. I think I still prefer mechanical for it's simplicity.

  11. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Good info, thanks!
    I see how the collet works, from the photo's on the PB review, and it looks like you may be referring to one of the fingers of the collet breaking off...correct? I can see why this "mechanical stop" takes a beating, which is why I think it's important to ease it up and down. May be the Achilles heal of the mechanical design vs hydraulic. I think I still prefer mechanical for it's simplicity.
    Yep. It's the little finger things that have broken off. I'll take a picture before it goes back to Spec.


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  12. #262
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    I like my 2013 FSR Elite but I think the single bolt seat clamp on he Blacklite is a design flaw. I understand that ease of adjusting the saddle tilt is a selling point but a two-bolt system isn't that difficult. How often do you adjust your seat position fore-and-aft and tiltwise anyway? Unless there's some extreme, North Shore Double Diamond technique of which I am not aware, we generally adjust our saddles once and then forget about them.

    No matter how tightly I torqued the bolt, the saddle would periodically tilt after hitting a bump or a hard landing. Off the bike, loosen, readjust, and torque well past 122 Nm. Four or five times a ride...not acceptable on a $4000 bike.

    The problem is the design and the installation method. The posts uses a clamp to squeeze wedges into a smooth cylinder. The instructions say to grease the wedges but I didn't get a good clamping action until I cleaned the grease off with alcohol, sprayed all the contact points with Carbogrip, and put so much torque on the clamping bolt that I fear something is going to fail catastrophically.

    I was contemplating drilling and tapping two setscrews through the cylinder and wedges but abandoned the idea; probably would have lead to a stress fracture through the holes.

    It works fine now but I don't trust it and am carrying the appropriate allen key in my pocket just in case. Certainly will not go on an epic ride with it.

    By comparison I have a KS dropper post on my Enduro, also a single bolt design (which will be switched onto the FSR as soon as I get the time) that I essentially adjusted once two years ago and have never given it a thought. The difference is that the clamp sits on serrated base which gives that extra hold. The KS, by the way, has worked flawlessly and I just clean it and put grease under the collar every six months or so.

    I'm a heavier rider...around 230 pounds but that's why I got a big bike like the FSR.

    On another note, the lever is awful. Very un-ergonomic and to put it in the ideal position for my thumb would cause interference with the shifter. I know this post is getting rave reviews but while I really like Specialized as a brand and no doubt the post is going to set the standard for reliability I think they could have done better.
    Last edited by Ailuropoda; 11-26-2012 at 03:21 PM.

  13. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ailuropoda View Post
    I like my 2013 FSR Elite but I think the single bolt seat clamp on he Blacklite is a design flaw. I understand that ease of adjusting the saddle tilt is a selling point but a two-bolt system isn't that difficult. How often do you adjust your seat position fore-and-aft and tiltwise anyway? Unless there's some extreme, North Shore Double Diamond technique of which I am not aware, we generally adjust our saddles once and then forget about them.

    No matter how tightly I torqued the bolt, the saddle would periodically tilt after hitting a bump or a hard landing. Off the bike, loosen, readjust, and torque well past 122 Nm. Four or five times a ride...not acceptable on a $4000 bike.

    The problem is the design and the installation method. The posts uses a clamp to squeeze wedges into a smooth cylinder. The instructions say to grease the wedges but I didn't get a good clamping action until I cleaned the grease off with alcohol, sprayed all the contact points with Carbogrip, and put so much torque on the clamping bolt that I fear something is going to fail catastrophically.

    I was contemplating drilling and tapping two setscrews through the cylinder and wedges but abandoned the idea; probably would have lead to a stress fracture through the holes.

    It works fine now but I don't trust it and am carrying the appropriate allen key in my pocket just in case. Certainly will not go on an epic ride with it.

    By comparison I have a KS dropper post on my Enduro, also a single bolt design (which will be switched onto the FSR as soon as I get the time) that I essentially adjusted once two years ago and have never given it a thought. The difference is that the clamp sits on serrated base which gives that extra hold. The KS, by the way, has worked flawlessly and I just clean it and put grease under the collar every six months or so.

    I'm a heavier rider...around 230 pounds but that's why I got a big bike like the FSR.

    On another note, the lever is awful. Very un-ergonomic and to put it in the ideal position for my thumb would cause interference with the shifter. I know this post is getting rave reviews but while I really like Specialized as a brand and no doubt the post is going to set the standard for reliability I think they could have done better.
    The tilting seat problem is easily solved with carbon fiber paste on the red cone thingy parts. Don't know if that is the same as the Carbogrip. I had the tilty seat issue until I did this and not a problem since. I'm also a bigger rider was in the 230 range when I first got the post. My issue is the collet breaking. Mine is about to go back to Spec for the second time for the same issue. At your size I can almost guarantee that you will break the collet in the first 6 mos of riding.

  14. #264
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    I want to get my wife a blacklite for Xmas. She has a 2010 specialized myna fsr small. The max her seat post can go into her frame is 5.250". Does anybody think that the 100 mm will work for her? Or will I have to wait until the 75mm gets back into stock?
    Thank.

  15. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorkboy View Post
    I want to get my wife a blacklite for Xmas. She has a 2010 specialized myna fsr small. The max her seat post can go into her frame is 5.250". Does anybody think that the 100 mm will work for her? Or will I have to wait until the 75mm gets back into stock?
    Thank.
    Depends on how much seatpost is exposed right now. Go measure from the seat collar to the seat rail and see what the measurement is. If there is at least 9.75 then the 100mm will work.
    The way I figured this is as follows:
    The lower portion of the 100mm post from where the post flares out for the seal to the end of the post is 8.5" The top portion from the seal to the seat rail is 6.5"
    Since the frame can only insert 5.25" you take 8.5 - 5.25 = 3.25. Then take 6.5+ 3.25(for the additional exposed lower portion of the post) = 9.75"
    Hope that makes sense.

  16. #266
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    Yeah, I measured and my wife rides with her saddle up at 5.750" going uphill, then drops it down 2 - 3 inches for downhill.

    Maybe the 75mm blacklite would be better. But they aren't available, so it might be a delayed xmas gift.

    Thanks for your help!
    Scott.

  17. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorkboy View Post
    Yeah, I measured and my wife rides with her saddle up at 5.750" going uphill, then drops it down 2 - 3 inches for downhill.

    Maybe the 75mm blacklite would be better. But they aren't available, so it might be a delayed xmas gift.

    Thanks for your help!
    Scott.
    hm, with 5.75" showing and only able to insert the seatpost 5.25" into the seat tube I'm not even sure the 75mm dropper post would work.

  18. #268
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    The broken collet. 2nd time.


  19. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    The broken collet. 2nd time.

    Just found mine broken too. 3rd one for me. Looks like this is a recurring issue.

  20. #270
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    Just wanted to give an update to say I've been using the Blacklite for quite some time now with no issues. Many of my local riding buddies are as well and have reported no problems. Once you apply the carbon paste to the saddle clamp to prevent rotating the post is great. Reverb has failed twice so I'm done with that thing.

    I finally decided to get rid of that f@#$%ing curved noodle at the bar clamp and it's resolved all my issues with the lever being too hard to push. I determined it was where most of the resistance was in the cable sliding smoothly. It's not quite as clean looking, but the loop out front really isn't that big and the post is MUCH more useable now. I can drop it quickly whenever I need to now. I love it, and unlike the Reverb it has been reliable.

    Food for thought for those considering the 100 vs the 125mm. I couldn't use more than the 100 for my frame so that's what I've been using. I've found I don't miss the extra drop that the longer Reverb had. 100mm at full drop is more than enough for the steepest, most technical trails. I never really thought about it before, but I think going an inch shorter will also improve longterm durability because ultimately you are looking at less stress on all the components. It will be a shorter lever arm so there will be less torsional forces at the saddle on the thinner telescoping part.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  21. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    I finally decided to get rid of that f@#$%ing curved noodle at the bar clamp and it's resolved all my issues with the lever being too hard to push.
    interesting... And I just lubed my noodle the other day!


  22. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    interesting... And I just lubed my noodle the other day!

    Keep your personal non-bike-related pastimes off of MTBR Andy. Nobody needs to hear about that.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  23. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    Just wanted to give an update to say I've been using the Blacklite for quite some time now with no issues. Many of my local riding buddies are as well and have reported no problems. Once you apply the carbon paste to the saddle clamp to prevent rotating the post is great. Reverb has failed twice so I'm done with that thing.

    I finally decided to get rid of that f@#$%ing curved noodle at the bar clamp and it's resolved all my issues with the lever being too hard to push. I determined it was where most of the resistance was in the cable sliding smoothly. It's not quite as clean looking, but the loop out front really isn't that big and the post is MUCH more useable now. I can drop it quickly whenever I need to now. I love it, and unlike the Reverb it has been reliable.

    Food for thought for those considering the 100 vs the 125mm. I couldn't use more than the 100 for my frame so that's what I've been using. I've found I don't miss the extra drop that the longer Reverb had. 100mm at full drop is more than enough for the steepest, most technical trails. I never really thought about it before, but I think going an inch shorter will also improve longterm durability because ultimately you are looking at less stress on all the components. It will be a shorter lever arm so there will be less torsional forces at the saddle on the thinner telescoping part.
    I wrote about the same issue with the noodle a while back.
    Removing the noodle was like night and day difference for me. When I got the dropper for my other bike I didn't even bother with the noodle.

  24. #274
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    Glad to hear it wasn't just me. I didn't have time to read through the entire thread, but it's good others are aware of the issue.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  25. #275
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    I found swapping the stock cable for a Teflon cable made the lever action considerably more smooth as well. Almost 2 years on BL post now with no issues at all - knock, knock, knock.

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