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  1. #1
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    Should I keep my SX-Trail or not??

    Hello,

    I have a 2009 Specialized SX-Trail 1 and I'm riding All mountain I think...

    My riding, to be more exact, includes climbing fire roads and street roads in order to reach the very same trails I was riding with my full DH Big Hit bike. This is why my choice as an all mountain bike a couple years ago was the SX-Trail. The original plan though a couple years ago was to continue shuttling and every now and then to climb the bike.

    Currently I find my self to climb the bike a lot and my shuttle days are over. I have replaced the 35mm stem with a 50mm one, the 660mm handlebar with a 780mm one and I feel much better when climbing. The tires I use right now are Maxxis Larsen on the back and Minion DHF on the front end. Both 2.35 and single ply. Pretty light tires too. I use tubes from schwalbe, the freeride ones, 185gr claimed, 197 in real world. Those changes helped me a bit in climbing by positioning my body better on the bike and reducing the rolling resistance but I still feel more need to be done.

    To get to the point I want to bring back a subject that I have been asking about a year ago, to replace my RockShox Domain 318IS 160mm with a Fox 32 Float RLC 150mm.

    Along with this change the wheelset will be replaced, my current wheelset weighs at 2300gr.

    I have attached a photo of my bike and a photo of the trails I ride. What do you guys think I should do?

    Will the new fork flex too much?? Will the geometry of the bike get too ruined? Will the 32mm air fork handle the terrain I am riding?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Should I keep my SX-Trail or not??-sam_2151.jpg  

    Should I keep my SX-Trail or not??-sam_2156.jpg  


  2. #2
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    A Fox32 150 is clearly the wrong fork for your bike. If I were you, I'd bee looking at lighter AM/Trail bikes to replace your SX.

    Aside from that, a 150mm trail fork like a Fox 32 or a RS Revelation can chew up terrain like that no problem.

  3. #3
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    I ride terrain worse than that on a Pivot Mach 5.7 with full air suspension and 150mm Fox Float 32 (and I'm not a featherweight). I have it outfitted with burly parts, big tires (tubeless), and a dropper seatpost. It's a large frame and still comes in almost right at 30 lbs. The problem is the geometry on the SX is designed for the longer travel fork, so I'm not sure I'd want to steepen it. You can climb on anything, but it won't ever be the best climber no matter how you set it up. It was designed to be more of a park bike. And it's still going to be heavy. Olijay is right that you're probably better off getting a new generation AM/Trail bike if you're going to be doing a lot of climbing.

    Not really trying to pimp my bike, so if you want to see a few pics of how mine is built up, mine is currently the last post in the AM setup thread. It handles some pretty gnarly terrain and climbs awesome. I did look at bigger, burlier bikes with more travel like the Firebird or the Intense Tracer 2, but this bike just handles everything I throw at it and asks for more. It's great for everything except hardcore downhill use. If I was into racing I think it would be the perfect enduro bike. I'm not saying you should get the 5.7 specifically. Bikes are a very personal thing. I'm just letting you now that there are some great lightweight AM/trail bikes that you can build up to rock terrain like that without punishing you on the climbs.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 09-16-2011 at 07:24 AM.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  4. #4
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    OP: first question is do you want a new bike? If this post is an exercise to rationalize your desire for a new bike because you've changed your flavor of what you like to do on a bike, stop rationalizing and just go get one (after you figure out what exactly you want it to do...which I think you have a pretty good idea).
    If you can't afford a new bike and you want to retask your SX to be a more trail oriented bike, you can def make it more pleasant a climber. Air shock/fork, get a lighter dual ring guide, get a lighter duty wheelset w/ better choice on rubber, some carbon bits here and there, XC oriented drive train...etc.

    BUT no matter what you do w/ that SX, keep in mind that you can dress up a pig and take it to the prom, but it's still a dressed up pig at the prom But were it up to me, I wouldn't put a 150/32 fork on that frame...something like an older 36 Float RC2 would be my choice.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  5. #5
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    Plenty of people run fox 36 160s on their SXs. Why not get a Fox 36 or Lyrik w/ 160mm of travel? Should save you quite a bit of weight up front. You could also shave some more weight off going to a proper air shock (Xfusion has a DH air shock coming out soon). Change up the wheelset and I bet you'll be shedding close to 3 lb. What's your bike weigh in at now?

  6. #6
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    2nd on Haus Boss's suggestion, even a 36 Talas might work out. Climbing position may help more than shedding lbs

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsivis83 View Post

    Currently I find my self to climb the bike a lot and my shuttle days are over... the 660mm handlebar with a 780mm one and I feel much better when climbing.


    Huh? Typically a narrower bar gives you more control when climbing, or at least I think so. 120mm is a very drastic change.
    What the hell is an aluminum falcon?

  8. #8
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    Hi guys, thank you all for the replies and advice, keep them coming!

    The wider bar and the longer stem brought my body more over the front wheel and improved my position on the bike for climbing as well as for descending too. More info on that: Tech Tuesday: Handlebars - How Wide Affects Your Ride - Pinkbike.com

    Also I was talking about a 150mm Fox 32 Float, just 10mm less than my current fork, I think it was clear on my OP.

  9. #9
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    Trade that Domain for a 170 Lyrik ,slx cranks with dual ring and bash a Command Post ( or another one) telescopic seatpost a
    nd lighter wheels,maybe a Mavic Crossline wheelset or SX if you can aford.

  10. #10
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    I'm on SXT but 2008 - similar to yours I think(not like 2010 and after that). Best option to climb with that bike in my opinion is fork with travel reduction - Talas/ Lyrik u-turn/ 66 170mm ETA. You can simulate what'll going on with attaching rope between crown and stanction's arc, and compressing the fork - climb with that configuration to see how it is.
    Should I keep my SX-Trail or not??-img_2187.jpg
    I did some tests ago and decide that travel reduction helps on extremely steep climbs which is not very common here. So I bought Float 180 that could be lowered to 100 in 10mm increments - if I change the frame I don't need to buy another fork or I can experiment with different travels.
    PS And saved weight will not help much - I went from 19kg to 16.80 and lighter parts cannot compensate geometry (from my experience).
    Last edited by codename47; 09-17-2011 at 07:52 AM.

  11. #11
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    Sell it and buy an Enduro Evo
    Santa Cruz Blur TRc

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve.E View Post
    Sell it and buy an Enduro Evo
    This. And I'd be interested in your bike if it's a medium! Also, if you keep her, a Lyrik Solo Air or Float 36 are better options as is the new Vector Air rear shock from X Fusion (as was mentioned) but that's a lot of coin to convert a bike meant for park riding.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsivis83 View Post

    Also I was talking about a 150mm Fox 32 Float, just 10mm less than my current fork, I think it was clear on my OP.
    you were clear, and i believe everyone that mentioned a travel adjust for such as the talas or lyrik with 2step or U-turn, was pretty clear as well.

    take your domain and put the U-turn coil system in it, you can then adjust travel out on the trail for climbs, and extend it back out for your descents.
    no need for a new fork, let alone a whole new bike. and you will always have the travel at your fingertips and not question yourself as to why you swapped out forks for 150mm.

  14. #14
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    Hello again guys, you all have been really helpful!!

    @odename47: The trick with the ropes is very nice and I will try it tomorrow. It will be a nice simulation. Very very nice.

    @Steve.E and Gman086: If I sell my SX trail I wouldn't go for something like the Enduro EVO. If you compare the 2012 Enduro Evo and the 2009 SX Trail we are practically talking about the same bikes. Ok, not exactly the same but pretty close! My pic would be a bike with around 140mm of travel.

  15. #15
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    What size is your frame?

  16. #16
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    My bike is a medium

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsivis83 View Post
    Hello again guys, you all have been really helpful!!

    @odename47: The trick with the ropes is very nice and I will try it tomorrow. It will be a nice simulation. Very very nice.

    @Steve.E and Gman086: If I sell my SX trail I wouldn't go for something like the Enduro EVO. If you compare the 2012 Enduro Evo and the 2009 SX Trail we are practically talking about the same bikes. Ok, not exactly the same but pretty close! My pic would be a bike with around 140mm of travel.
    The Enduro is a good 5 lbs lighter because of the frame, air shock and fork. It climbs worlds better than the SXTr even tho the geometries are similar. If you want a 140ish mm travel bike I can't think of any better than a Banshee Spitfire - beyond happy with mine!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  18. #18
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    your bike is fine in the pic - spend your cash on some studded tyres for the winter and some nite lites for the rest of the year.

  19. #19
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    Get a travel adjust knob and spring for the fork, should be pretty cheap. Order through a good shop. Or you can drop a pound by getting an air fork, but don't get a 32, something that is intended for the frame.

    Position and geometry are more important than weight. Rider 165# + bike 35# = 200# you have to get up the hill. Loosing 1# = .05% weight savings. Weight at the outside of the wheel is a special case however.

    Your current rims are 550 grams. Any AM rim will be ~500g. Very little savings there. Only the outside of the wheel really matters with weight.

    Get light tubes. Tubes only hold air. They do nothing to protect from punctures. $5 each, save ~75g each.

    Maxxis have great gripping tires, but they can be real slow rollers.

    Crank up the ProPedal on the rear shock.

    A dropper post has the side benefit of being able to put the post in best peddaling position instead of the non-dropper; compromise for peddaling and descending.

    P

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