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  1. #1
    fried not baked
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    Santa cruz Bullit or Transition Blindside

    Looking for a complete bike that can pretty much handle anything. Ive narrowed it down to these 2. I found a 2008 bullit on Pinkbike for 2000$ and was thinking about purchasing it. But i really do like the blindside. Someone please help me make up my mind.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    if your gonna drop $2000 i think you could do better than a bullet of blindside for an all around bike. both of those are more fr that can wander over into am a bit. is that what you are looking for?

  3. #3
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    If you have your heart set on a bullit, my lbs has a new medium 08 bullit with a lyrik and a dhx 5.0, SRAM X9 and DT Swiss wheels for 2400 with full warranty. If youre in socal and interested, send me a pm and I'll tell you where the shop is.

  4. #4
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    Well, Having owned a few bullits(old and new) and have a few buddies with the Blindside. They are not even close as being the same style of bike.

    Yes, both could be built up as a Heavy duty FR/Single crown but the bullit could be a AM weapon. It will pedal up a hill. There's no way you'll ever get the Blindside to be a "pedal-able"bike.

    So if you what to define what you really want, that might sway your decision for either bike

  5. #5
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    First off thanks for the insight I appreciate the replys.

    I like to hit whistler during season but im about a 1.5 hour drive from there so i try to ride local North shore mountains in vancouver. Im about 200lbs so i need something that can handle the weight. Also i want a bike that i wont die from pedaling uphill to get to the top. I dont plan on riding 2 hour uphills just enough uphill to get me to some decent runs. Im pretty new to the sport so im not super familiar with all the parts and what they do. I just like to bust up trails and like to hit the skills park to do some jumps. My current budget is 4000-5000$ Canadian tax included for a complete bike. So i guess i am looking for a FR/DH bike that can wander into AM, if this even exists. What should i get? Please help me build a beast

    PS. I currently ride a hard tail cannondale and i feel like im going to die on it on the way down the mountain sometimes

    Thanks guys!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    First off thanks for the insight I appreciate the replys.

    I like to hit whistler during season but im about a 1.5 hour drive from there so i try to ride local North shore mountains in vancouver. Im about 200lbs so i need something that can handle the weight. Also i want a bike that i wont die from pedaling uphill to get to the top. I dont plan on riding 2 hour uphills just enough uphill to get me to some decent runs. Im pretty new to the sport so im not super familiar with all the parts and what they do. I just like to bust up trails and like to hit the skills park to do some jumps. My current budget is 4000-5000$ Canadian tax included for a complete bike. So i guess i am looking for a FR/DH bike that can wander into AM, if this even exists. What should i get? Please help me build a beast

    PS. I currently ride a hard tail cannondale and i feel like im going to die on it on the way down the mountain sometimes

    Thanks guys!
    Knolly Delirium.

  7. #7
    fried not baked
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero
    Knolly Delirium.

    Actually that bike was in my sights as well but I think its out of my budget?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    Actually that bike was in my sights as well but I think its out of my budget?
    Depends on your build. dropnzone.com has frames for 2650 (w/ Vivid). That leaves you 2400 for the rest of the build - i'd say it is easily doable...it is off-season, deals can be had. The Lyrik is a great fork, and you won't beat this price... That puts you right at $3k, which leaves a LOT of room for cockpit/wheels/drivetrain.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero
    Depends on your build. dropnzone.com has frames for 2650 (w/ Vivid). That leaves you 2400 for the rest of the build - i'd say it is easily doable...it is off-season, deals can be had. The Lyrik is a great fork, and you won't beat this price... That puts you right at $3k, which leaves a LOT of room for cockpit/wheels/drivetrain.
    I would love to build my own bike but im basically a newbie with any parts and what they do . Even if i order all the parts i would need i would probably have left over nuts and bolts after trying to put the bike together I dont really have anyone who can help me, thats why im having to go to a local shop and make a complete bike purchase. I am having a shop email me different builds. Hopefully they can keep it under 5000$

  10. #10
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    santa cruz nomad or intense uzzi (not sure it fits your price range though). transition blindside would work but dont expect to climb anything more than a small hill. trek scratch would also be another good option.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    Actually that bike was in my sights as well but I think its out of my budget?
    There's a used Large '09 Delirium frame on Ebay Right now for less than $1250.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/2009-Large-Knoll...item2eb1644b36

  12. #12
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    take a serious look at banshee; either a rune (pedls great for a 6" frame but can take the dh abuse) or a scythe, definitely a bombproof freeride bike but still pedals "ok". both have slacker angles than the bullit (IMO bullit is kind of an outdated bike, and with your budget you should get something more advanced than a basic single pivot with no swing link). Both banshee frames w/shock are under $1800 US, that leaves you tons of $ for parts. Rune can take a 6" or 7" fork (I have a 7" on mine) and scythe can take 7" or 8" fork (but you should put a 7" fork like a totem on it if its for all-around riding). Between the 2 banshee bikes, If you're doing regular climbing I think you'd be happiest with a rune with a coil elka shock, and a rockshox coil totem fork or lyrik 170.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyl11
    Well, Having owned a few bullits(old and new) and have a few buddies with the Blindside. They are not even close as being the same style of bike.

    Yes, both could be built up as a Heavy duty FR/Single crown but the bullit could be a AM weapon. It will pedal up a hill. There's no way you'll ever get the Blindside to be a "pedal-able"bike.

    So if you what to define what you really want, that might sway your decision for either bike

    Guess you've never ridden one. My buddy pedals his BS up and down all day long.

  14. #14
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    TS, I never said you can't pedal the blindside but I would never classify it as a AM or a do it all bike. The blindside is a DH rig it was never meant to be anything different.

    I can pedal my session 88 up and down the MTN and have done it but it's not my first choice(not even close to being fun.) if I know pedaling is part of the ride.

    The OP asked for a bike that can handle everything. That's a wide statement and tried to get more info (which he did supply)

    At the end of the day, they are all bikes with wheels, cranks and a chain. All of them can be pedaled.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyl11
    Well, Having owned a few bullits(old and new) and have a few buddies with the Blindside. They are not even close as being the same style of bike.

    Yes, both could be built up as a Heavy duty FR/Single crown but the bullit could be a AM weapon. It will pedal up a hill. There's no way you'll ever get the Blindside to be a "pedal-able"bike.

    So if you what to define what you really want, that might sway your decision for either bike
    This guy is right,If your looking to go pedal freindly check out the bottle rocket over the blindside.With that said unless your going to go full bore freeride I would go with a enduro class bike....heres a few
    covert
    spec enduro
    cannodale rize/rz
    trek remedy

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    I would love to build my own bike but im basically a newbie with any parts and what they do . Even if i order all the parts i would need i would probably have left over nuts and bolts after trying to put the bike together I dont really have anyone who can help me, thats why im having to go to a local shop and make a complete bike purchase. I am having a shop email me different builds. Hopefully they can keep it under 5000$
    What size do you ride ??? I'll have a large nomad,med bottle rocket hitting e bay over the weekend....
    check out my feedback screen name
    STARLIVING

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyl11
    TS, I never said you can't pedal the blindside but I would never classify it as a AM or a do it all bike. The blindside is a DH rig it was never meant to be anything different.

    I can pedal my session 88 up and down the MTN and have done it but it's not my first choice(not even close to being fun.) if I know pedaling is part of the ride.

    The OP asked for a bike that can handle everything. That's a wide statement and tried to get more info (which he did supply)

    At the end of the day, they are all bikes with wheels, cranks and a chain. All of them can be pedaled.

    Actually TBC classifies the BS as "Big All Mountain" and specifically states in these videos that the BS is not a dedicated DH bike (The TR450/250 are DH). Have a look for yourself.

    http://www.pinkbike.com/news/transit...view-2010.html

  18. #18
    fried not baked
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    So after talking with my local shop they think the RUNE would be the best choice for my riding style. It can pedal all day yet wont get stopped by anything on the mountain trails, and i can still bring it to Whistler and bike parks and have fun. They classified the RUNE as the smallest "BIG BIKE", where as the BLINDSIDE was a "BIG BIKE".

    I am a fairly new rider this year being my second season and the only thing im worried about is that will I out grow the RUNE? Maybe its too early to say exactly what style i will fall in love with. But right now I really need an AM/FR type of bike. Also what do you guys think of the SCYTHE? Is it like the blindside being a BIG BIKE? Hard to pedal?

    Ill be building it with my local shop everything will be custom for me I got 5000$ i can spend on it so lets see what kind of bike i can get from that. Can u guys suggest any "Must Have's" on a custom ride like this so i dont miss out on anything? Ill be listing my spec choices as i go along.

    Thanks again for the help,

    DM
    Last edited by darkmeat; 11-18-2010 at 09:58 AM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    So after talking with my local shop they think the RUNE would be the best choice for my riding style. It can pedal all day yet wont get stopped by anything on the mountain trails, and i can still bring it to Whistler and bike parks and have fun. They classified the RUNE as the smallest "BIG BIKE", where as the BLINDSIDE was a "BIG BIKE".

    I am a fairly new rider this year being my second season and the only thing im worried about is that will I out grow the RUNE? Maybe its too early to say exactly what style i will fall in love with. But right now I really need an AM/FR type of bike. Also what do you guys think of the SCYTHE? Is it like the blindside being a BIG BIKE? Hard to pedal?

    Ill be building it with my local shop everything will be custom for me I got 5000$ i can spend on it so lets see what kind of bike i can get from that. Can u guys suggest any "Must Have's" on a custom ride like this so i dont miss out on anything? Ill be listing my spec choices as i go along.

    Thanks again for the help,

    DM
    i dont think you will outgrow a rune, your lbs seems on the money. i go with a lyrik or 36, i dont think you need travel adjust and probably a single ring out front. a fairly substantial wheelset like en521's on hopes and pretty beefy tires (maybe two sets, dual ply for resort days and single for trail riding) and a coil over shock out back. the rest is personal prefrence.

  20. #20
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    good choice with the rune. it is a strong bike with slack angles that can take almost anything you can throw at it (except full-on dh racing and really huge drops), but is still snappy and playful. i will say at first the suspension seems a tad firm (like when going slowly over a curb or something), but it was designed to be pushed hard and the suspension really opens up at speed. Very stable, and active under braking. climbs good, especially when sitting & spinning, but if you stand and pedal, make sure its in the middle ring (too much chain growth for stand-up granny pedaling) Here is my build:

    shock: elka stage 5
    fork: rockshox domain 180 (but u should get a totem)
    wheels: hope pro II hubs, mavic 823 rims
    tires: varies, light tubeless 2.3"s for xc, 2.5" dh tires for shuttle days.
    brakes: avid elixir cr's
    stem: funn rippa 45 mm bars: answer protaper dh 1" rise, cut down to 29"
    seatpost: thomson saddle: koobi pr enduro (verry comfortable but a little wide)
    drivetrain: 22/32/ bashguard;
    pedals: dark cycles arachnids..

    bushing system is easy and cheap to maintain too. hope this helps.
    Last edited by dwyooaj; 11-18-2010 at 11:23 AM.

  21. #21
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    [QUOTE=darkmeat... the only thing im worried about is that will I out grow the RUNE?
    DM[/QUOTE]

    Yeah, I have been riding 7 years and the RUNE is one of two bikes that I would look to if I had to replace my bike today.

    Your LBS is spot on, as are b-kul and dwyooaj...but I'd suggest running a 2x9 setup instead of a 1x9 (or suck it up and go 1x10). Elka/Lyrik/823 and you can have a very nice ride. Honestly, you are so early into your riding career that an extra couple hundred bucks to get some instruction/spend time at a resort would be an investment and not a depreciable asset (like the bike).

    Post up pics when you get it done!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero
    Yeah, I have been riding 7 years and the RUNE is one of two bikes that I would look to if I had to replace my bike today.

    Your LBS is spot on, as are b-kul and dwyooaj...but I'd suggest running a 2x9 setup instead of a 1x9 (or suck it up and go 1x10). Elka/Lyrik/823 and you can have a very nice ride. Honestly, you are so early into your riding career that an extra couple hundred bucks to get some instruction/spend time at a resort would be an investment and not a depreciable asset (like the bike).

    Post up pics when you get it done!
    Actually ive already taken a clinic at Endless Biking out here on the North Shore. They have many clinics but I enrolled in the 3 LEVEL progressions. They thought i should be in Level 2 but there wasnt enough riders late in season for the class so i opted to go down to Level 1. It was very basic but i learned very technical stuff and it was still fun. I plan to finish the 3 Level progression by summer time. Thanks for the help again.

    DM

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj
    good choice with the rune. it is a strong bike with slack angles that can take almost anything you can throw at it (except full-on dh racing and really huge drops), but is still snappy and playful. i will say at first the suspension seems a tad firm (like when going slowly over a curb or something), but it was designed to be pushed hard and the suspension really opens up at speed. Very stable, and active under braking. climbs good, especially when sitting & spinning, but if you stand and pedal, make sure its in the middle ring (too much chain growth for stand-up granny pedaling) Here is my build:

    shock: elka stage 5
    fork: rockshox domain 180 (but u should get a totem)
    wheels: hope pro II hubs, mavic 823 rims
    tires: varies, light tubeless 2.3"s for xc, 2.5" dh tires for shuttle days.
    brakes: avid elixir cr's
    stem: funn rippa 45 mm bars: answer protaper dh 1" rise, cut down to 29"
    seatpost: thomson saddle: koobi pr enduro (verry comfortable but a little wide)
    drivetrain: 22/32/ bashguard;
    pedals: dark cycles arachnids..

    bushing system is easy and cheap to maintain too. hope this helps.
    Those dark cycle pedals look sick, i must have the anodized purple or blue looking ones. Im either going White with all purple anodized stuff as accent or blue anodized as accent colour. As far as the saddle goes im a pretty big guy so i would like a comfortable seat so wide is prolly better for me.

    On a side note how do you guys find websites to look for this type of gear. ex. Dark cycles. everytime i google for something epic i get generic companies.

    Also a must have coming from me for you guys if you have an IPOD or IPHONE.
    http://store.apple.com/ca/product/H0743ZM/A
    Sound quality is great for such a little thing and it beats earbuds. It can mount on your bars or your headtube. If you have more people that have these you can broadcast from one one main rider to everyone else so everyone hears the same tune playing.

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    please dont mount a speaker on your bike. Not everyone around, likes to hear music when they're out riding in the woods. If you must listen to music instead of nature, please use (one) earbud.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj
    please dont mount a speaker on your bike. Not everyone around, likes to hear music when they're out riding in the woods. If you must listen to music instead of nature, please use earbuds.
    Its not that loud and its pointed directly at you and with no bass the sound does not travel at all. You can only hear it if you are 2-3ft away even at full blast. I like being able to hear things around me like "HAY LOOK OUT!" or "YO DUDE THERE's a BEAR over there!" or "Yo man wait up i bailed!" while listening to my favorite shredding track. I guess 1 earbud would be suffice but this mini speaker is great. Any type of wire connected to me while riding is a pain imo.

  26. #26
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    Let the build begin....

    So decided on the Medium RUNE painted black frame.with these spec choices

    Fork - ROCKSHOX TOTEM -black
    Rear - DHX 5.0
    Hub - Hope Pro II - gold
    Crank - ATLAS FR - gold
    Brakes - havent decided
    Pedals - Straight line - gold
    Sram X9 drivetrain
    all accent colors everything that i can get gold will be gold

    Basically a totally black and gold setup.

  27. #27
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    sounds like a sick build so far. id get a gold straightline stem and black bars.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    sounds like a sick build so far. id get a gold straightline stem and black bars.
    Or a black stem and gold atlas FR bars. Good choice with the rune, though I would go elka on rear shock, or isx-6 if you wanted to do air (not just my opinion but what Keith from Banshee would suggest as well.)

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    sounds like a sick build so far. id get a gold straightline stem and black bars.
    Quote Originally Posted by ExCactus
    Or a black stem and gold atlas FR bars. Good choice with the rune, though I would go elka on rear shock, or isx-6 if you wanted to do air (not just my opinion but what Keith from Banshee would suggest as well.)
    I can still change my rear for an Air instead of coil. what are the benefits? And how much better if it is. Is there allot of maintenance involved with an air compared to a coil?

    I also was looking at the Atlas FR gold bar but its a different color gold than the crank which is weird and it turned me off a little. I really have to see what a gold bar with blackstem / black bar with gold stem, will look like when the bike is almost complete.

    Looking at the straightline components It doesnt seem like they offer a gold stem only bronze color . Please correct me if im wrong. I also plan to change the brake levers if they come in gold as well any ideas where i can find these?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    Let the build begin....

    So decided on the Medium RUNE painted black frame.with these spec choices
    ....

    Isnīt the RUNE that bike that has no bearings but bushings in the frame?
    I owned a bike with bushings once (Ventana). Sticky suspension and worn bushings every month.
    I donīt think this is a good idea when you are in a muddy/wet area and weigh 200lbs (like I do).
    Just my 2cts...

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxfahrer
    Isnīt the RUNE that bike that has no bearings but bushings in the frame?
    I owned a bike with bushings once (Ventana). Sticky suspension and worn bushings every month.
    I donīt think this is a good idea when you are in a muddy/wet area and weigh 200lbs (like I do).
    Just my 2cts...
    Yes the rune uses bushings and not bearings. Heres a great guide to servicing your bushings darkmeat.
    How-to: Bushing Service / Replacement
    Replacing bushing on the rune is more of a once a year preventative maintenance measure really, as long as you keep them well greased. The guy who wrote that how-to I linked lives in western washington, as do I, so we both ride our bushings in some nasty mucky weather. There are advantages and disadvantages to each style, bushing vs bearings, but cheap and easy maintenance of bushings is a plus when you ride in an environment that is wet since maintenance will be required regardless.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExCactus
    Yes the rune uses bushings and not bearings. Heres a great guide to servicing your bushings darkmeat.
    How-to: Bushing Service / Replacement
    Replacing bushing on the rune is more of a once a year preventative maintenance measure really, as long as you keep them well greased. The guy who wrote that how-to I linked lives in western washington, as do I, so we both ride our bushings in some nasty mucky weather. There are advantages and disadvantages to each style, bushing vs bearings, but cheap and easy maintenance of bushings is a plus when you ride in an environment that is wet since maintenance will be required regardless.
    This is awesome, doesnt seem that complicated to do. Thanx Cactus

  33. #33
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    So another dilemma.... need to decide

    FORK: Rockshox TOTEM coil or Rockshox - Lyric coil (is there a price difference?)

    REAR: FOX DHX 5.0 coil or Manitou Evolver ISX-6

    Anyone got any ideas?

    Thanks

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    I can still change my rear for an Air instead of coil. what are the benefits? And how much better if it is. Is there allot of maintenance involved with an air compared to a coil?

    I also was looking at the Atlas FR gold bar but its a different color gold than the crank which is weird and it turned me off a little. I really have to see what a gold bar with blackstem / black bar with gold stem, will look like when the bike is almost complete.

    Looking at the straightline components It doesnt seem like they offer a gold stem only bronze color . Please correct me if im wrong. I also plan to change the brake levers if they come in gold as well any ideas where i can find these?

    Chromag Ranger stem/FUBAR OSX bars come in GOLD. Ping Chad @ Red Barn and let him know I sent you...(406) 363-2662.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxfahrer
    Isnīt the RUNE that bike that has no bearings but bushings in the frame?
    I owned a bike with bushings once (Ventana). Sticky suspension and worn bushings every month.
    I donīt think this is a good idea when you are in a muddy/wet area and weigh 200lbs (like I do).
    Just my 2cts...
    What year was that Ventana? I have owned Ventanas since 2005 and none had bushings.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    So another dilemma.... need to decide

    FORK: Rockshox TOTEM coil or Rockshox - Lyric coil (is there a price difference?)

    REAR: FOX DHX 5.0 coil or Manitou Evolver ISX-6

    Anyone got any ideas?

    Thanks
    IIRC, people like the Manitou coupled with this frame.

    As for the fork...Lyrik is more of a Trail/AM/ light FR fork, Totem is full on FR/DH. If you are not planning on spacing the totem down to 160, I'd probably go with the Lyrik, unless you really plan on spending some DH days on it.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    So another dilemma.... need to decide

    FORK: Rockshox TOTEM coil or Rockshox - Lyric coil (is there a price difference?)

    REAR: FOX DHX 5.0 coil or Manitou Evolver ISX-6

    Anyone got any ideas?

    Thanks
    You really can't beat this price on a lyrik http://www.bikewagon.com/Rock-Shox-L...-p8796264.html
    You wont be able to run an angleset headset so you wont be able to slacken the rune out if you wanted to, but thats an awesome fork for that price. And if you go coil I really think you should consider Elka. They might still have the discounted price with banshee builds, I'd shoot Keith at banshee a pm (builttoride) to check, but the thing about elka is it comes custom tuned for the bike that you are riding and your riding style etc. The ISX-6 is an awesome air shock coupled with the rune too. Basically if you want a little more fr then go elka, if you want a little more am/xc then go isx-6.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    Rear - DHX 5.0
    Coil, I hope.

    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    Brakes - havent decided
    Sram X9 drivetrain
    Basically a totally black and gold setup.

    If you want black and gold - go Saint instead.

  39. #39
    fried not baked
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExCactus
    You really can't beat this price on a lyrik http://www.bikewagon.com/Rock-Shox-L...-p8796264.html
    You wont be able to run an angleset headset so you wont be able to slacken the rune out if you wanted to, but thats an awesome fork for that price. And if you go coil I really think you should consider Elka. They might still have the discounted price with banshee builds, I'd shoot Keith at banshee a pm (builttoride) to check, but the thing about elka is it comes custom tuned for the bike that you are riding and your riding style etc. The ISX-6 is an awesome air shock coupled with the rune too. Basically if you want a little more fr then go elka, if you want a little more am/xc then go isx-6.
    How about the Monarch 4.2 HV compared to the ISX-6 and DHX 5.0 coil?

    Basically they have a 200$ difference in price between them

    Monarch 4.2 HV
    ISX-6 +200$
    DHX 5.0 +200$

    LBS is saying its not even worth the money to upgrade to the ISX-6 since the Monarch is amazing. What do you guys think?

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    How about the Monarch 4.2 HV compared to the ISX-6 and DHX 5.0 coil?

    Basically they have a 200$ difference in price between them

    Monarch 4.2 HV
    ISX-6 +200$
    DHX 5.0 +200$

    LBS is saying its not even worth the money to upgrade to the ISX-6 since the Monarch is amazing. What do you guys think?
    So a shocks performance will vary from frame to frame due to different suspension designs. The Rune requires a progressive shock. Most stock rear coil shocks will likely bottom out, which is where the custom tuning of the elka to the frame really helps. I don't get why you aren't considering an elka, because if my frame hadn't come with an ISX6 then that is definitely the route I would have gone. You could go with another coil, but you would likely need to get it pushed/custom tuned which will cost more than elka. If you choose an air shock, then you want a small volume or one with adjustable BO (bottom out). The monarch doesn't have adjustable BO, and is a high volume shock. I just really don't think it pairs well with the Rune. The ISX6 is highly tunable, allowing you to get it much more dialled to your riding/the rear suspension design than a monarch would. I could be wrong, because most of my knowledge comes from reading about different rear shocks with the rune since I've only ridden it with the ISX6, but the guys over on the banshee forum are pretty knowledgeable. If you asked this same question over there I'm sure you could get a better explanation than I provided. If I were you, I would save money on all those blingy parts you want and get stuff like SLX cranks, and spend the money on what will really affect performance like the rear shock. Oh, and just a tip, don't post on 5 different threads asking how much someones build cost, send them a PM next time

  41. #41
    fried not baked
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExCactus
    So a shocks performance will vary from frame to frame due to different suspension designs. The Rune requires a progressive shock. Most stock rear coil shocks will likely bottom out, which is where the custom tuning of the elka to the frame really helps. I don't get why you aren't considering an elka, because if my frame hadn't come with an ISX6 then that is definitely the route I would have gone. You could go with another coil, but you would likely need to get it pushed/custom tuned which will cost more than elka. If you choose an air shock, then you want a small volume or one with adjustable BO (bottom out). The monarch doesn't have adjustable BO, and is a high volume shock. I just really don't think it pairs well with the Rune. The ISX6 is highly tunable, allowing you to get it much more dialled to your riding/the rear suspension design than a monarch would. I could be wrong, because most of my knowledge comes from reading about different rear shocks with the rune since I've only ridden it with the ISX6, but the guys over on the banshee forum are pretty knowledgeable. If you asked this same question over there I'm sure you could get a better explanation than I provided. If I were you, I would save money on all those blingy parts you want and get stuff like SLX cranks, and spend the money on what will really affect performance like the rear shock. Oh, and just a tip, don't post on 5 different threads asking how much someones build cost, send them a PM next time
    Thanks for the help i went ahead and posted in the banshee section. Good idea on PMing

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmeat
    So after talking with my local shop they think the RUNE would be the best choice for my riding style. It can pedal all day yet wont get stopped by anything on the mountain trails, and i can still bring it to Whistler and bike parks and have fun. They classified the RUNE as the smallest "BIG BIKE", where as the BLINDSIDE was a "BIG BIKE".

    I am a fairly new rider this year being my second season and the only thing im worried about is that will I out grow the RUNE? Maybe its too early to say exactly what style i will fall in love with. But right now I really need an AM/FR type of bike. Also what do you guys think of the SCYTHE? Is it like the blindside being a BIG BIKE? Hard to pedal?

    Ill be building it with my local shop everything will be custom for me I got 5000$ i can spend on it so lets see what kind of bike i can get from that. Can u guys suggest any "Must Have's" on a custom ride like this so i dont miss out on anything? Ill be listing my spec choices as i go along.

    Thanks again for the help,

    DM
    Just to add another option that might suit you.... you could go with a Scythe, with a shorter shock (8.5x2.5") this would gibe you 6.4 and 7.3" travel setting, lower the BB a tough and slacken the headangle a bit. I know a lot of people who ride the scythe as their shore bike, who ride up the fire roads (scythe has full length seat tube and can fit front derailleur if desired) to get to the top and ride down the fun stuff. A scythe with the shorter shock will be stronger and more park friendly than the rune, and might even be a bit cheaper. I've ridden both the scythe (with both shock options) and rune, and the rune is the best pedaling bike for sure, but if I were just going to DH areas where I either push or ride up fire road to ride down, then I would personally get a scythe, as it is a really fun, zero maintainance, strong reliable bike that can take punishment and will never limit you (has been raced to top 30 finishes at world cup DH). With the short shock option a 160-180mm fork would work best, with longer shock option (8.75x2.75" giving 7" and 8" travel settings) a 180mm or 200mm fork would suit best.... just something to consider, as the you wouldn't risk outgrowning the scythe. the shorter shock option just helps make it a bit more pedal friendly. If however you will be sitting in the saddle pedalling for hours at a time doing true all mountain, then the rune is a great bike.
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  43. #43
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    here is an example of scythe built on the more all mountain friendly side although with longer shock option... http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?p=...ck#post2439598
    Banshee Bikes Designer
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  44. #44
    fried not baked
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    Quote Originally Posted by builttoride
    here is an example of scythe built on the more all mountain friendly side although with longer shock option... http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?p=...ck#post2439598
    That is a very nice build for a scythe. I will be doing allot of pedaling, so I decided to go with the RUNE. Definitely going to go with the ISX-6 as well. Thanks for solidifying my decision on the rear shock Kieth!

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExCactus
    If you choose an air shock, then you want a small volume or one with adjustable BO (bottom out). p
    huh... i thought the rune's leverage curved was kinda designed to work well with high-volume air shocks, as the lowest leverage ratio is in the mid-stroke, to cancel out the mid-stroke "wallow" many people complain about with high-volume shocks like dhx air? i have 2 shocks for mine: an elka coil, and an old cane creek cloud 9 high-volume air as a backup. Right now i have the air on there because the elka developed a clunk, gonna send it in for service so will be running the cloud 9 for 3 weeks or so (aaargh). But, the cloud nine actually feels pretty good, especially in the mid-stroke where the elka feels a tad harsh. i might buy a dhx air or isx-6 to replac e the cloud 9 t some point tho. The cloud 9 doesnt have a piggyback and it does tend to fade a bit on long dh runs.
    btw to the op i like what your shop called the rune; the "smallest 'big' bike". Best description ive ever heard for the rune.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj
    huh... i thought the rune's leverage curved was kinda designed to work well with high-volume air shocks, as the lowest leverage ratio is in the mid-stroke, to cancel out the mid-stroke "wallow" many people complain about with high-volume shocks like dhx air? i have 2 shocks for mine: an elka coil, and an old cane creek cloud 9 high-volume air as a backup. Right now i have the air on there because the elka developed a clunk, gonna send it in for service so will be running the cloud 9 for 3 weeks or so (aaargh). But, the cloud nine actually feels pretty good, especially in the mid-stroke where the elka feels a tad harsh. i might buy a dhx air or isx-6 to replac e the cloud 9 t some point tho. The cloud 9 doesnt have a piggyback and it does tend to fade a bit on long dh runs.
    btw to the op i like what your shop called the rune; the "smallest 'big' bike". Best description ive ever heard for the rune.
    You could definitely be right, like I said I'm not an expert on the topic. I just like riding my rune

  47. #47
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    Rune is designed for high volume air shocks with bottom out adjustibility. As these shocks tend to have more progressive leverage curves than shocks like RP23 or monarch with large volume air cans do... I was surprised when I learned this, but I've tested and got the data.
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  48. #48
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    so then im thinking the dhx air 5.o would be a good match, just crank up the bo control.

  49. #49
    Clyde
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    you might want to see if a fox RC4 is an option. It sounds like it is the best of the DHX 5 Air and Coil .
    09 Ibis Mojo - All Mountain Moab Edition

  50. #50
    fried not baked
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    So below is so far how my build is coming along for my RUNE. Right now the brake lines are being upgraded to gold as well as the levers. I am also adding a gold seat post.

    Ive been looking and think i will change the straightline bronze pedals and bash protector to black. I think it will make the gold cranks pop more.

    Thanks for all the help everyone who chimed in. I will post new pics when the bike is fully complete



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjf5a_yT22M

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