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RockShox Reverb Thread

874K views 3K replies 735 participants last post by  Jetta2010 
#1 · (Edited)
Figured we should make a thread for all the thoughts and common issues from Reverb owners and for potential Reverb buyers. It'll also be a great place to post short, mid, and long term reviews of the post, as well as pictures of Reverb setups.

A lot of this information was pulled from the ajdustable seatpost thread. Thanks to BMJ and tscheezy for their contributions.

Strengths
1. Incredibly smooth actuation
2. No degradation of cable to worry about
3. Substantial fork seals should keep contaminants out
4. Easily serviced by any place that services forks
5. Very little play, can't be felt while on bike, only while moving saddle by hand with bike stationary
6. Stupid easy to bleed and shorten cable
7. Solid 2 bolt saddle clamp mechanism
8. Lightweight at 515g claimed weight (30.9mm diameter, 380mm length version)
9. Infinite adjustability
10. 5 inches of adjust
11. Adjustable return speed
12. Syringes/Oil included in box
13. Combination clamp for SRAM shifters included
14. Mounts with matchmaker clamp if you have SRAM shifters and Avid brakes (not included)
15. Quiet. No noise when engaged or moving into a setting
16. Slick looks

Weaknesses
1. May need to be filled pretty much right from the factory if your post is slow (see below).
2. Seatpost clamp bolts may back out on first ride. Make sure to tighten well and possibly loctite. Does not appear to reoccur after things are settled and re-tightened.
3. Hydraulic cable has coil memory and has to be trained a little before it will behave.
4. Hydraulic cable forms large bends when lowered. On some frames need to be creative with cable routing to avoid cable getting into linkage/contacting rear tire with suspension travel.
5. SRAM shifter combination clamp is a pain to setup (not an issue with standalone clamp).
6. Can be sensitive to clamping force if over-tightened. This is true with most adjustable posts. I have not experienced this as I'm a bigger guy.

You Decide
Torx bolt at remote clamp instead of Allen can be annoying if you don't have a newer multitool with Torx head, but less chance of stripping bolt.

Important Note:
For anyone who is experiencing slow return speed out of the box, you pretty much have to follow the procedure that BMJ did, listed below, unless you are shortening the line.

Shortening Line:
You should already have the remote mounted to your bike and the cable routed how you want it at this stage. If you are shortening the line, dial the barrel adjuster all the way to the slowest setting. Remove the line from the remote. The instructions in the SRAM link below say to cut a slit in the cable and then pull off, but I had problems cutting the cable. I used pliers and was able to gently pull the cable off the barb without much trouble. The barb will stay on the remote, so no need to worry about barbs and olives like hydraulic brakes.

Measure and cut the cable to the desired length with a proper cable cutter that won't crimp the hose. Make sure to leave enough cable for your handlebars to completely turn both ways without pulling the cable out of the lever. Hold cable vertical when cutting and plug end with finger to ensure you don't spill any oil. You should have oil up to the end of the cable. Reattach cable to barb of remote. You should be able to push it all the way on with your fingers. If you have problems, wrap a rag around the cable and use pliers to push the rest of the way on without crushing or gouging the cable. Turn the barrel adjuster to the highest setting. Work the seatpost and remote. You should now have fast return like expected.

If you did spill some oil it is ok, you will just have to add some more. Follow BMJ's instructions and the SRAM guide below. It is very simple with the included syringe. You really should fill it with the barrel adjuster in the slowest setting so you get fast return. If you top it off with it in the fastest setting, the post will creep up like a snail.

Bleeding Process:
BMJ said:
I set the speed dial full slow, which pulled in the lever. I then filled one of the syringes and threaded it into the remote bleed hole. I pumped in fluid untill the remote lever was full out again and put a little pressure on the system. Upon removing the syringe, some fluid backed out and then I sealed it back up.

Results....

Full slow is now what full fast was. Full fast is twice as fast as it was. Not as fast as my Joplin or Amp post but alot faster than out of the box. The remote now activates approx 1/3rd the way in instead of all the way in. Now I can use the full speed range and the fast setting is MUCH closer to the way I like it to be.

Either they set it wrong in Taiwan or the barometric pressure / temps are dramatically different here that the settings fluctuated in transit.
Instructions and diagram for hydraulic remote can be found here:
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/dealers/XLoc-Hose-Adj-and-Bleed-Procedure.pdf

2 year warranty, original owner only

User Submitted Specs
Actual Weights:
30.9/380 - 522 grams (tscheezy)
30.9/420 - 565 grams (scottg)
31.6/380 - 537 grams (mitja)
31.6/420 -

Install lengths:
I measured about 7 1/4" from bottom of fitting to bottom of seat rails, about 7 1/2" to top of seat rails.
Bottom of silver fitting to the seat rails is 190 mm when post is fully extended. (scottg)
You need a minimum of 195mm of exposed post (from the enter of the saddle rails to the top of the seat tube/collar) to run a Reverb. (tscheezy)

80mm Minimum Insertion Length or about 3.15 inches (Reverb Manual)
 
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#2,986 ·
So my hydraulic cable to the remote broke yesterday while biking. (hard stop and my hand came off the handle bar and must have caught the cable and it broke the connector piece of the nipple attachment) Post is up almost all the way. I had planned to replace the remote with a Wolf tooth anyway. So no big deal. Question is how do I and do I need to make sure the post is fully extended before I do the swap to the Sustain remote?
 
#2,987 ·
No. It doesn't matter where the post is when you install a remote. However, if you want to fully extend the post to be able to ride, cut the hose near the remote, stick the end going to the dropper into a presta bike pump and gradually start to pump. The post will pop up. You may need to hold the hose in the chuck so it doesn't slip out.
 
#2,993 ·
Air pressure at sea level is 15 psi. In space, it's zero. If your tires are inflated to 30 psi at sea level, they'd be 45 psi in space. Pretty much the same for seat posts etc.. Atmospheric pressure at 10,000' feet is about 10 psi, so if you inflate something at sea level, it will have effectively 5 more psi at 10,000'. 5 more psi won't blow up your tires, seat post or fork, but it is enough to effect the performance of the tires and fork.
 
#2,996 ·
Hoping someone can help:

I am servicing a Reverb for a friend, and the IFP is stuck at the very top of the upper post, so that I can't get zip ties behind it to remove it. I've also tried a spoke to move it but there's not enough space behind the IFP to pull it at all. I have also tried attaching a pump to move it (per this article https://nsmb.com/articles/sram-reverb-stealth-b1/ and this blurb on pinkbike https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=194650&pagenum=1#commentid6628134) using air pressure but that doesn't seem to move the IFP at all either.

Short of using some threaded rod to try to grab the IFP at the risk of scratching the internal upper post, I'm at a loss. Any tips on removal of a super deep stuck IFP?? Thanks!!
 
#2,999 ·
Just fitted a 1x to mine. I'd shortened the cable and needed a bleed so I thought why not. Part way through I was thinking why?!!

That bleed process was a nightmare. Everything up to bleeding the lever was quick and easy. Bleeding the lever through bleeding edge - grrr.

Took me about 90 mins and a puddle of fluid on the floor before I figured out the technique. All sorted and smashing now. But that took way longer than anticipated.
 
#3,002 ·
How difficult is the B1 IFP upgrade for the A2 posts?

I've done a rebuild on an A1 post with relative success, so cracking one open doesn't bother me. I've got strap wrench and suspension vice covers.
 
#3,007 ·
Have there been any other improvements or discoveries made in terms of slightly larger seals, different seal materials, etc that might make an A1/A2 last longer between service intervals?
 
#3,008 ·
This is probably well known at this point, but this thread has a key piece of advice regarding the inner sealhead: https://www.pinkbike.com/u/PHeller/blog/reverb-basic-rebuild.html

The majority of the failures I have experienced with the A1/A2 rev posts (I think both of mine are A1) have been due to this stupid seal head unthreading itself and the o-ring bulging and subsequently leaking.

Blue Technology Cable Electric blue Cobalt blue


The last time I rebuilt it, I carefully cleaned the threads on both the post and seal head with IPA, soaked it in blue locktite, and cranked it as tight as I could without stripping anything. So far so good, but who knows how long until it works its way out again.

I did learn last time that if this failure happens, it's possible to fix the resulting sag without a full teardown, bleed and rebuild, I didn't even have to take the seat off! You will need the IFP height tool, or something similar though.

  1. Drop the post slightly to get the IFP midway through its travel
  2. Tear things down to the point where the post is upside down and the piston has been removed
  3. Use the IFP tool to reset the IFP height
  4. top off the oil in the piston tube. You can't fill it because it has little holes near the end, so you just need enough to have it come out these holes.
  5. Put the piston back in just enough to block those holes. You may have to hold the actuation lever down to let a tiny bit of oil flow and move the IFP slightly
  6. Dump out any oil that has overflowed, then put everything back together making sure to clean and loctite that stupid seal head
  7. Go ride until it breaks again
 
#3,009 ·
Haha using my own summary of information against me!

I was hoping to update that document with newer info or better descriptions. Hillridge, I added your "sag fix" to that document.

I know that the last time I rebuilt my A1 Reverb I put locktight (or maybe I just went crazy on tightening it, dont remember) on the seal head threads and it held together for awhile, maybe a year or more until a trip to Moab when it failed and by that point I was so disappointed with the post I just sold it.

I was hoping someone found some new ways of making the post more reliable with the addition of B1 parts.
 
#3,014 ·
Haha using my own summary of information against me!

I was hoping to update that document with newer info or better descriptions. Hillridge, I added your "sag fix" to that document.

I know that the last time I rebuilt my A1 Reverb I put locktight (or maybe I just went crazy on tightening it, dont remember) on the seal head threads and it held together for awhile, maybe a year or more until a trip to Moab when it failed and by that point I was so disappointed with the post I just sold it.

I was hoping someone found some new ways of making the post more reliable with the addition of B1 parts.
The only change in parts would be the new IFP. I don't think you can use a B1 parts kit to rebuild the A1/A2.

The sealhead design on a B1 post is different as the o-ring is below the threads, so you don't have to be so careful not to pinch it out when threading the sealhead on, but I don't think it will fit an A1/A2. I guess you could buy a B1 sealhead and try?
 
#3,010 ·
Lol I didn't even notice it was your post! I'm going to try that key upgrade the next time this thing is apart, great idea!

Maybe I will look into the B1 parts and see if they can be added to the A series, but gut feeling is that other than the upgraded IFP, which is known to swap in, they won't mix.

Our sag fixes both solve the same problem by opening opposite ends of the oil chamber and topping it off. My way requires more disassembly of the post itself and an IFP height tool, but you don't have to take the seat off or bleed the system afterward. Yours requires a bleed kit and technically an oil height tool (you explain it well enough to avoid that), and you have to bleed it afterward, but you don't have to disassemble the whole lower half.

Of course, if it's sagged from that stupid seal head unthreading, you're going to have to pull the lowers apart anyway.

It's like a choose your own adventure for whatever way you personally find less of a hassle!
 
#3,012 ·
^^^ the hydro remote and seatpost internals are two basically unrelated systems. A cable remote actuates the same drop valve in the post that the hydro remote activates. Any problems within the post like squishiness, self unscrewing seal head, bad IFP etc will remain unaffected.

Personally, I think the hydro remote is kinda ridiculous with cable remotes being a more optimal solution for droppers.
 
#3,013 ·
I would rather have a cable actuated one, but I haven't looked at new droppers yet because I want one with 150-175mm of travel, and there aren't a lot of options for externally routed posts. I'd rather stick with the Reverb that I have a very good understanding of, and can fix in under an hour than buy another 125mm post.
 
#3,016 ·
Wolftooth remote install - got a bit of air in the main post body

I installed the Wolftooth Sustain 1x remote this week on a brand new Reverb Stealth B version. When I did so, I think I mistakenly pulled out the bleed allen screw on the actual post body (the one in the attached picture). Once I got everything back together the seat post drops about 1/2" or so when I sit on it.

Anyone else who's installed the Wolftooth system have this issue or know an easy way to bleed JUST the post body itself? That piece in the picture and the black barrel below it come out with the install of the wolftooth. Could I put it back on and somehow bleed it using that port and the air / oil port at the top of the post? I think the internals / seals, etc are all good. Basically I need to bleed just the post itself and not the full system with cable, housing, etc.
 

Attachments

#3,017 ·
I've not installed WT before but from what I can tell, you remove/replace the silver hose connector anyway so it doesn't matter if you accidentally removed the bleed screw on that part. The internal hydraulic/pneumatic circuits should not be affected at all by the actuator part of the system.
 
#3,018 ·
I also installed the wolf tooth remote after breaking the reverb remote barb. The install is simple after the first time you do it. My problem is the post is now working in reverse! Yep, the post moves up/down until the lever is PRESSED,then it will lock solid , untll you let out the lever, THE POST MOVES AGAIN. I left an email with wolf tooth but havnt heard back. I'm at a loss to understand whats going on. Any thoughts?
 
#3,020 ·
Sounds strange. I don't know if this is related to your problem, but I know the Wolftooth remote relies on the housing moving up and down to actuate the post so there must be enough slack in the housing below the post in order to do that. There is a description of this somewhere in the mtbr forums, maybe in this thread.
 
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