Figured we should make a thread for all the thoughts and common issues from Reverb owners and for potential Reverb buyers. It'll also be a great place to post short, mid, and long term reviews of the post, as well as pictures of Reverb setups.
A lot of this information was pulled from the ajdustable seatpost thread. Thanks to BMJ and tscheezy for their contributions.
Strengths
1. Incredibly smooth actuation
2. No degradation of cable to worry about
3. Substantial fork seals should keep contaminants out
4. Easily serviced by any place that services forks
5. Very little play, can't be felt while on bike, only while moving saddle by hand with bike stationary
6. Stupid easy to bleed and shorten cable
7. Solid 2 bolt saddle clamp mechanism
8. Lightweight at 515g claimed weight (30.9mm diameter, 380mm length version)
9. Infinite adjustability
10. 5 inches of adjust
11. Adjustable return speed
12. Syringes/Oil included in box
13. Combination clamp for SRAM shifters included
14. Mounts with matchmaker clamp if you have SRAM shifters and Avid brakes (not included)
15. Quiet. No noise when engaged or moving into a setting
16. Slick looks
Weaknesses
1. May need to be filled pretty much right from the factory if your post is slow (see below).
2. Seatpost clamp bolts may back out on first ride. Make sure to tighten well and possibly loctite. Does not appear to reoccur after things are settled and re-tightened.
3. Hydraulic cable has coil memory and has to be trained a little before it will behave.
4. Hydraulic cable forms large bends when lowered. On some frames need to be creative with cable routing to avoid cable getting into linkage/contacting rear tire with suspension travel.
5. SRAM shifter combination clamp is a pain to setup (not an issue with standalone clamp).
6. Can be sensitive to clamping force if over-tightened. This is true with most adjustable posts. I have not experienced this as I'm a bigger guy.
You Decide
Torx bolt at remote clamp instead of Allen can be annoying if you don't have a newer multitool with Torx head, but less chance of stripping bolt.
Important Note:
For anyone who is experiencing slow return speed out of the box, you pretty much have to follow the procedure that BMJ did, listed below, unless you are shortening the line.
Shortening Line:
You should already have the remote mounted to your bike and the cable routed how you want it at this stage. If you are shortening the line, dial the barrel adjuster all the way to the slowest setting. Remove the line from the remote. The instructions in the SRAM link below say to cut a slit in the cable and then pull off, but I had problems cutting the cable. I used pliers and was able to gently pull the cable off the barb without much trouble. The barb will stay on the remote, so no need to worry about barbs and olives like hydraulic brakes.
Measure and cut the cable to the desired length with a proper cable cutter that won't crimp the hose. Make sure to leave enough cable for your handlebars to completely turn both ways without pulling the cable out of the lever. Hold cable vertical when cutting and plug end with finger to ensure you don't spill any oil. You should have oil up to the end of the cable. Reattach cable to barb of remote. You should be able to push it all the way on with your fingers. If you have problems, wrap a rag around the cable and use pliers to push the rest of the way on without crushing or gouging the cable. Turn the barrel adjuster to the highest setting. Work the seatpost and remote. You should now have fast return like expected.
If you did spill some oil it is ok, you will just have to add some more. Follow BMJ's instructions and the SRAM guide below. It is very simple with the included syringe. You really should fill it with the barrel adjuster in the slowest setting so you get fast return. If you top it off with it in the fastest setting, the post will creep up like a snail.
Bleeding Process:
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/dealers/XLoc-Hose-Adj-and-Bleed-Procedure.pdf
2 year warranty, original owner only
User Submitted Specs
Actual Weights:
30.9/380 - 522 grams (tscheezy)
30.9/420 - 565 grams (scottg)
31.6/380 - 537 grams (mitja)
31.6/420 -
Install lengths:
I measured about 7 1/4" from bottom of fitting to bottom of seat rails, about 7 1/2" to top of seat rails.
Bottom of silver fitting to the seat rails is 190 mm when post is fully extended. (scottg)
You need a minimum of 195mm of exposed post (from the enter of the saddle rails to the top of the seat tube/collar) to run a Reverb. (tscheezy)
80mm Minimum Insertion Length or about 3.15 inches (Reverb Manual)
A lot of this information was pulled from the ajdustable seatpost thread. Thanks to BMJ and tscheezy for their contributions.
Strengths
1. Incredibly smooth actuation
2. No degradation of cable to worry about
3. Substantial fork seals should keep contaminants out
4. Easily serviced by any place that services forks
5. Very little play, can't be felt while on bike, only while moving saddle by hand with bike stationary
6. Stupid easy to bleed and shorten cable
7. Solid 2 bolt saddle clamp mechanism
8. Lightweight at 515g claimed weight (30.9mm diameter, 380mm length version)
9. Infinite adjustability
10. 5 inches of adjust
11. Adjustable return speed
12. Syringes/Oil included in box
13. Combination clamp for SRAM shifters included
14. Mounts with matchmaker clamp if you have SRAM shifters and Avid brakes (not included)
15. Quiet. No noise when engaged or moving into a setting
16. Slick looks
Weaknesses
1. May need to be filled pretty much right from the factory if your post is slow (see below).
2. Seatpost clamp bolts may back out on first ride. Make sure to tighten well and possibly loctite. Does not appear to reoccur after things are settled and re-tightened.
3. Hydraulic cable has coil memory and has to be trained a little before it will behave.
4. Hydraulic cable forms large bends when lowered. On some frames need to be creative with cable routing to avoid cable getting into linkage/contacting rear tire with suspension travel.
5. SRAM shifter combination clamp is a pain to setup (not an issue with standalone clamp).
6. Can be sensitive to clamping force if over-tightened. This is true with most adjustable posts. I have not experienced this as I'm a bigger guy.
You Decide
Torx bolt at remote clamp instead of Allen can be annoying if you don't have a newer multitool with Torx head, but less chance of stripping bolt.
Important Note:
For anyone who is experiencing slow return speed out of the box, you pretty much have to follow the procedure that BMJ did, listed below, unless you are shortening the line.
Shortening Line:
You should already have the remote mounted to your bike and the cable routed how you want it at this stage. If you are shortening the line, dial the barrel adjuster all the way to the slowest setting. Remove the line from the remote. The instructions in the SRAM link below say to cut a slit in the cable and then pull off, but I had problems cutting the cable. I used pliers and was able to gently pull the cable off the barb without much trouble. The barb will stay on the remote, so no need to worry about barbs and olives like hydraulic brakes.
Measure and cut the cable to the desired length with a proper cable cutter that won't crimp the hose. Make sure to leave enough cable for your handlebars to completely turn both ways without pulling the cable out of the lever. Hold cable vertical when cutting and plug end with finger to ensure you don't spill any oil. You should have oil up to the end of the cable. Reattach cable to barb of remote. You should be able to push it all the way on with your fingers. If you have problems, wrap a rag around the cable and use pliers to push the rest of the way on without crushing or gouging the cable. Turn the barrel adjuster to the highest setting. Work the seatpost and remote. You should now have fast return like expected.
If you did spill some oil it is ok, you will just have to add some more. Follow BMJ's instructions and the SRAM guide below. It is very simple with the included syringe. You really should fill it with the barrel adjuster in the slowest setting so you get fast return. If you top it off with it in the fastest setting, the post will creep up like a snail.
Bleeding Process:
Instructions and diagram for hydraulic remote can be found here:BMJ said:
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/dealers/XLoc-Hose-Adj-and-Bleed-Procedure.pdf
2 year warranty, original owner only
User Submitted Specs
Actual Weights:
30.9/380 - 522 grams (tscheezy)
30.9/420 - 565 grams (scottg)
31.6/380 - 537 grams (mitja)
31.6/420 -
Install lengths:
I measured about 7 1/4" from bottom of fitting to bottom of seat rails, about 7 1/2" to top of seat rails.
Bottom of silver fitting to the seat rails is 190 mm when post is fully extended. (scottg)
You need a minimum of 195mm of exposed post (from the enter of the saddle rails to the top of the seat tube/collar) to run a Reverb. (tscheezy)
80mm Minimum Insertion Length or about 3.15 inches (Reverb Manual)