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  1. #1876
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    Please help me diagnose my problem! I posted the following back in June:



    Bleeding fixed it for a short time, but it quickly went back to being very slow to come up. Then this weekend, it wouldn't come up at all. If I would push the button and lift up on it it would spring back down. Luckily, my legs are short enough that with it stuck down, I can raise the lower part of the post up and have my seat at the right height.

    I rode most of the day this way, then tested the post and it came up! Slow, but it was suddenly working again.

    What kind of problem would cause the post to malfunction intermittently like that?
    Sounds like a full bleed and a line/barb swap would fix things. IMO, seems like you've got air in the line. It's moving around/reacting differently based on position/heat/the whims of the gos/etc. and thus giving you weird action.

    Otherwise:Literalis is spot on with all his info. My first gen Stealth model (which I did a half seal change about a year ago) finally got the dreaded sink an inch thing going on. Turns out when My mechanic; ahem - fire that guy...) serviced it before, I, ahem, I mean he managed to gouge up the inner shaft a bit. It finally manked up the inner head seals.

    Pulled all apart, smoothed the inner shaft as much as I could (very fine grit wet/dry paper and some clear nail polish to fill the gaps) and swapped some o-rings, and it's golden now. Since that first service, I've (i mean my mechanic) has picked up some vice soft jaws and other proper bits to ensure the smooth slidy bits don't get screwed up again...

    As well, we've ordered up a new poppet/inner shaft kit. Whenever the post starts acting up again, that'll get swapped in. Could the inner seals be beefed up? I suppose so, but then the smoothness and action might be compromised.

    Yes, these posts can be a PITA - but the ease of working on them and getting parts coupled with the functionality makes the pain worthwhile. Meh. I have one of my oooooold Gravity Dropper posts kicking about for just these sorts of things. Not ideal, but at least it can be swapped in as a pinch hitter when one of the Reverbs is down.

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  2. #1877
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    yeah I suspected air in the line, since the first bleed seemed to help, but then the problem came back. When I bled last time, I was careful to flow back and forth many times from one syringe to the other, until I saw no more bubbles. But I guess that air can stay lodged in a little corner somewhere and never come out. Is there a better way to bleed than what they show on the Sram video? Maybe double bleed, first with the post higher than the lever, and then visa versa, to try and free any trapped air?

  3. #1878
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    Another symptom: My speed adjustment is fully open. When I turn it toward slower, the plunger button slowly moves in. Is this normal? Then I try to actuate the post, and it seems there is not enough throw left in the trigger to open the valve (or whatever is supposed to happen).

  4. #1879
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    That sounds like it is that one 0 ring on the lower seal head.

    WHen my post has failed, it would start with the spongy, 2cm drop and then gradually drop and not return to full extension. But this last time, it would not return quickly and progressively got slower until it stopped extending but no spongy drop like before.

    I was hesitant to pull it apart because of the bleeding and rebuild process. So, I decided to see what I could get away with and all I did was take it apart and replace the o-ring (which was bulging out again, just like every other time)

    I then filled the inner tube that the shaft fit into with a little oil and put the shaft back in. Slapped a couple wraps of teflon tape on the threads and tightened the hell out of that inner seal head.

    It has been working fine and no bleed needed. I am hoping that Teflon tape will keep the inner seal head snug and not allow it to back out, allowing that o ring to pop out and fail.

  5. #1880
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunnar-man View Post
    That sounds like it is that one 0 ring on the lower seal head.

    WHen my post has failed, it would start with the spongy, 2cm drop and then gradually drop and not return to full extension. But this last time, it would not return quickly and progressively got slower until it stopped extending but no spongy drop like before.

    I was hesitant to pull it apart because of the bleeding and rebuild process. So, I decided to see what I could get away with and all I did was take it apart and replace the o-ring (which was bulging out again, just like every other time)

    I then filled the inner tube that the shaft fit into with a little oil and put the shaft back in. Slapped a couple wraps of teflon tape on the threads and tightened the hell out of that inner seal head.

    It has been working fine and no bleed needed. I am hoping that Teflon tape will keep the inner seal head snug and not allow it to back out, allowing that o ring to pop out and fail.
    What happens to the O ring? Does it wear out, or does it come off? I've got the service manual. Is there more than one O ring on the inner seal head? Are there some good instructions somewhere on how to do this? It looks like the service manual has a bunch of unnecessary steps if all you want to do is get to the inner seal head.

  6. #1881
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    What happens to the O ring? Does it wear out, or does it come off? I've got the service manual. Is there more than one O ring on the inner seal head? Are there some good instructions somewhere on how to do this? It looks like the service manual has a bunch of unnecessary steps if all you want to do is get to the inner seal head.
    You'll still have to open things up of course, but you can skip some of the steps. And as long as you are careful not to move the IFP or the internal piston around or lose oil, you should be good to go.

    One of the pics from Literalus shows it - if the seal head backs out enough, the o-ring will get pooched out - that's what screws things up in some cases. May or may not be your exact issue.

    The SRAM service doc and their service vids on youtube are pretty good. Just skip the stuff you don't need. Fix/replace what needs doing, get riding again.
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  7. #1882
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    Smilinsteve, I've read over your issues in these posts. I'm 95% positive your remote and hose are fine. It's all in the post. Yes, these o-rings go bad over time. You have something leaking by your o-rings that separate the oil chamber and air.

    As for your second question, yes, you can get to the inner seal head without doing a full rebuild. There is a catch though, you will have to remove the lower seal head to get to it. This will require some aluminum soft jaws and a vise to hold the piston shaft while you unscrew the lower seal head.

    Change all the o-rings on the lower seal head and the piston shaft. 99% chance that is your problem area. Be careful removing the lower seal head and piston shaft and you won't have to add oil or bleed the system. When reinstalling the inner seal head, put a little Teflon tape on the threads and torque it as hard as you can without marring up the post. Get that thing tight! You should be good to go from there.

  8. #1883
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    Another symptom: My speed adjustment is fully open. When I turn it toward slower, the plunger button slowly moves in. Is this normal? Then I try to actuate the post, and it seems there is not enough throw left in the trigger to open the valve (or whatever is supposed to happen).
    Yeah there's air in the post system (as opposed to the lever system). Under certain circumstances it is under vacuum which pulls the poppet valve down which pulls your lever in.

  9. #1884
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    Hi guys I was wondering if someone could help me with reverb rebuild kits.

    I have a reverb stealth 2013.

    My LBS tells me that the only Reverb rebuild kit that the Australian SRAM distributor brings in is the standard A2 kit (11.6818.021.000) and that this will be OK for rebuilding the stealth as well.
    I have noticed that stealth specific kits are available (11.6818.022.000) from bikeman and others, but the LBS will be a fair bit cheaper once exchange rates/postage is added.

    The question is, will the standard A2 kit do the job?

  10. #1885
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    yeah I suspected air in the line, since the first bleed seemed to help, but then the problem came back. When I bled last time, I was careful to flow back and forth many times from one syringe to the other, until I saw no more bubbles. But I guess that air can stay lodged in a little corner somewhere and never come out. Is there a better way to bleed than what they show on the Sram video? Maybe double bleed, first with the post higher than the lever, and then visa versa, to try and free any trapped air?
    Before opening the entire post I would try something else first:

    About once a year my post gets air in the post system. Rather than opening the ENTIRE post up, all I have to do is remove the TOP of the post, poppet valve, and then I refill with a little fluid and then put back together. A little earlier in this thread someone posted instructions on how to do this.

  11. #1886
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post
    Smilinsteve, I've read over your issues in these posts. I'm 95% positive your remote and hose are fine. It's all in the post. Yes, these o-rings go bad over time. You have something leaking by your o-rings that separate the oil chamber and air.

    As for your second question, yes, you can get to the inner seal head without doing a full rebuild. There is a catch though, you will have to remove the lower seal head to get to it. This will require some aluminum soft jaws and a vise to hold the piston shaft while you unscrew the lower seal head.

    Change all the o-rings on the lower seal head and the piston shaft. 99% chance that is your problem area. Be careful removing the lower seal head and piston shaft and you won't have to add oil or bleed the system. When reinstalling the inner seal head, put a little Teflon tape on the threads and torque it as hard as you can without marring up the post. Get that thing tight! You should be good to go from there.
    I don't have the alu soft jaws but have used small slats of pine moulding instead (2.5"x0.5") on either side of the top of the post head, careful not to touch the strain relief. A little more of a pain getting everything lined up in the vice but allows you to tighten the seal head down without damaging anything.

  12. #1887
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    Quote Originally Posted by peanutaxis View Post
    Before opening the entire post I would try something else first:

    About once a year my post gets air in the post system. Rather than opening the ENTIRE post up, all I have to do is remove the TOP of the post, poppet valve, and then I refill with a little fluid and then put back together. A little earlier in this thread someone posted instructions on how to do this.
    I like to start with the simpler options, so I might try this, but first I have an even simpler strategy. I'm taking it to the bike shop. It came with the bike I bought 4 months ago, and has been pretty lightly used. I'm hoping its covered under warranty.

  13. #1888
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    Re: RockShox Reverb Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    I like to start with the simpler options, so I might try this, but first I have an even simpler strategy. I'm taking it to the bike shop. It came with the bike I bought 4 months ago, and has been pretty lightly used. I'm hoping its covered under warranty.
    Yeah, should be.
    But hey smilinsteve, I'm gonna order up some quad ring seals and run an exp on it. Las... has sent me a HUGE amount of beta on the topic of a rebuild. So if it works, i can get you a set of the quad ring seals hopefully making that part more reliable. I have 3 Reverbs... so probably will order at least 5 of each size.
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  14. #1889
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    Well, the boys at Mojo Wheels have my post. I talked to the mechanic who sounds like he has fixed a bunch of these. He said it might need a bleed like Scrublover said:
    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    Sounds like a full bleed and a line/barb swap would fix things. IMO, seems like you've got air in the line. It's moving around/reacting differently based on position/heat/the whims of the gos/etc. and thus giving you weird action.
    They said the first step, however is to call the serial number into SRAM, and they might just replace it . He said that if the bleed doesn't work the seal change normally will. He started telling me about what goes wrong with KS posts, Joplins, Control posts etc, and it sounds like the Reverb is at least easier to repair usually than most of the others.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Yeah, should be.
    But hey smilinsteve, I'm gonna order up some quad ring seals and run an exp on it. Las... has sent me a HUGE amount of beta on the topic of a rebuild. So if it works, i can get you a set of the quad ring seals hopefully making that part more reliable. I have 3 Reverbs... so probably will order at least 5 of each size.
    Sounds like an interesting experiment If it works you can start selling your own brand of "upgrade kit".

    I wonder if Push will ever get into the dropper post improvement biz.

  15. #1890
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    I just sent mine (owned for 4 mos) back to Art's for warranty work... ended up with a new one at my door within a week and a half. Glad SRAM appears to have a solid warranty support program and the guys at Art's came through big!

    Curious to how quad seals pan out... as well as any other tweaks to get these things hassle free. Sounds like tearing into these things is inevitable.

  16. #1891
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    The shop called and said they fixed my post with a bleed. That is what I was hoping they would not say. I have my doubts.

  17. #1892
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    I am looking for a new Rock Shox Reverb dropper with external cable and have found a 2013 model on discount. But is there any difference from the 2014 or 2015 model other than they have a higher price ??

  18. #1893
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    Re: RockShox Reverb Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Henrik J View Post
    I am looking for a new Rock Shox Reverb dropper with external cable and have found a 2013 model on discount. But is there any difference from the 2014 or 2015 model other than they have a higher price ??
    Ask the seller for the serial number and call RS to see which version...As or A2. Steer clear of A1s.
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  19. #1894
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    Re: RockShox Reverb Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    Sounds like an interesting experiment If it works you can start selling your own brand of "upgrade kit".
    No go on this exp. One of the steps require you to"slip"on the lower seal head onto the main shaft sitting in oil in the inner tube and it needs to be pretty stationary in its position in this inner tube. The quad ring seal in there make it damn near impossible to do this.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  20. #1895
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Ask the seller for the serial number and call RS to see which version...As or A2. Steer clear of A1s.
    Can someone help me if this one is a GO or NO GO ??

    RockShox Reverb Thread-image.jpg

  21. #1896
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    Anyone with a 125mm travel reverb for sale for parts, let me know. I need a new upper post/ stanchion after a slow speed crash dented mine.
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  22. #1897
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    I bought the 2015 version in 125/380, from Bike24 let's see if it works well.

  23. #1898
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    Can someone measure there reverb stealth that has the 150mm version in a 380. I am trying to find out the length from middle of seat rail down to bottom of the dropper lip (the area that does not let you push it down further into the frame)

    Thank you!
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  24. #1899
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    Sv: RockShox Reverb Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by need4gforce View Post
    Can someone measure there reverb stealth that has the 150mm version in a 380. I am trying to find out the length from middle of seat rail down to bottom of the dropper lip (the area that does not let you push it down further into the frame)

    Thank you!
    You need at least 19cm exposed post for 125mm, so I guess 21.5cm?

  25. #1900
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    Crashed yesterday and the hose came out of remote and the seatpost was all the way down. Is the bleed procedure any different if the post is all the way down versus all them way up?

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