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  1. #1851
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    All the important o-rings are listed in one of my posts a few pages back. I made a picture and listed their sizes. No reason to buy the basic kit other than to get the lower bushing from time to time. All the o-rings can be found online for super cheap.

  2. #1852
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    +1 for what Laterilu said. I looked back on the detailed diagram he posted and will getting some 2x19 mm seals this week to rectify the situation.

  3. #1853
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by sandatos View Post
    hello,
    I've a problem during servicing my reverb. When unscrewing the inner seal head, it's not the nut head that turn but the whole tube so that the seatpost head is unscrewing.
    Seems the inner seal head was tighen at a too high torque...
    Anyone had the same problem ?

    Attachment 893001
    Attachment 893002
    just a follow up of my problem.

    I juste received a brand new Reverb seat post from warranty, even if my old post was 4 years old (so no more under warranty). So very nice after sale service from Sram and Bike Components

  4. #1854
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    I have a 2013 reverb that has been sitting unused. Went to check air pressure and there was none. Attempted to add air and it won't take air. Any suggestions..

  5. #1855
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    I posted this in the Santa Cruz forum earlier.
    Any advise?

    My reverb, which is still relatively new, started making me nervous this weekend.
    The speed to come up has been getting slower and slower even though the adjustment on a the remote is all the way to the plus side.

    Then this weekend it wouldn't come up. It seemed like the stroke on the remote was shorter than normal. I checked the pressure (Trailside) and it pegged my shock pump gauge, so its over 300 pounds.

    So I put it back together, and lifted the saddle to extend the post, and it started working again. Still very slow, but working.

    Also, if the post is in a partially compressed position, is it supposed to hold that position if you lift up on the seat? It seems like mine used to, but now will raise if you lift up on it (though I try not to do that).
    Bleeding the system fixed my problem. Now the speed adjustment is on slow, and its still faster than it was on wide open before the bleed.

  6. #1856
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    Any idea what the typical interval is for adding air pressure?

    My apology if this has been covered, but 70+ pages is a lot to read.

  7. #1857
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    Quote Originally Posted by EatsDirt View Post
    Any idea what the typical interval is for adding air pressure?

    My apology if this has been covered, but 70+ pages is a lot to read.
    Iíve had my reverb for almost 3 years now. My experience has been that thereís either zero loss of air when itís operating correctly, or you experience a complete loss of air when an o-ring fails, which signals that itís time for a rebuild. Iíve never had to periodically add air. I just went almost 2 years between rebuilds. And both times it failed, it was due to the same issue: the inner seal head came loose and unscrewed itself until the o-ring critical for maintaining air pressure popped out.

  8. #1858
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    I was hoping that wasn't the case...

    I have a slow leak on a couple month old post. The return speed slowed over the last month, didn't want to return to full height consistently, and had sag at top of stroke. Full remote bleed didn't help. Aired it up and it seems to be working fine, but there was a slight film of oil around air valve/circlip.

    Sign of a time bomb?

  9. #1859
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    Tried to tighten the schrader valve core?

  10. #1860
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    Anyone have a solution to this problem????

    While extended the post has a slight (maybe 3mm) amount of vertical play. You can hear it making a 'clunking' noise when you push is down by hand and it will spring right back up. Aside from this issue it works fine, though when you sit on the seat it has that tiny amount of sink.

    Air pressure has been double checked at 250 psi and everything has been bleed.

    Want to know if I can resolve the issue without sending out the post!

    I also have the 2014 stealth version

  11. #1861
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    So most if not all off us are mounting the right side remote on the left side of the bars so its underneath and easier to use without major hand adjustments. Here's my question, do they make a left side remote I can on the right to get the same under the bar effect on the other side? The reason I ask is because I already have a remote lockout for my SID on the left side underneath and I want my dropper remote on the right side underneath?

  12. #1862
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    Yes they make remotes for both sides.
    Here is the thing about equality, everyone's equal when they're dead. - Gavroche, Les Misťrables

  13. #1863
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigkat273 View Post
    Yes they make remotes for both sides.
    Cool but I've been looking on their web site and can't seem to find any evidence of this. Since it pretty expensive to buy a second left side remote do you know if the posts can be ordered with a left remote originally? I'm going to start making some calls to get more info as soon as people start opening shop but I figured the forum never sleeps.

    never mind I did some more searching outside the SRAM site and found out much more about what's available. Funny how you can never find what you need on the manufacturers sites these days.

    Thanks again

  14. #1864
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    Hi all,

    I recently purchased a used Reverb which had about 1-2" of sag when fully extended. Once below about half length, the sag vanished.

    After a lot of Googling and several trial-and-error attempts, I thought I'd document here how I fixed it as it may help others:


    • First I bled the remote circuit as per the SRAM instructions using the two syringes from the bleed kit (actually, a third party Avid kit, but it worked ok ) - no change to the sag
    • I then repressurised the air cylinder, which was a little low on air - no change
    • I then watched the four "full service" videos on the SRAM page, which while being cool, seemed to need proper parts to sort. "Specialist tools? We don't need no steeenking specialist tools...."


    Here's how I finally fixed it. Assuming that the sag was air, I decided to try to get rid of it:

    1. Depressurise the cylinder and, using the remote, fully depress the seatpost. Depressurise the seatpost again! You really don't want any air left in it or you'll get a face full of oil and metal when you remove the top circlip!
    2. Clamp the post into a vice, taking care not to scratch it. I had no aluminium jaws, so used cardboard - worked ok
    3. Very carefully, remove the small circlip at the top of the post. Even when pressure is removed, it comes out with a pop - be ready to catch the bits!
    4. Remove the circlip, retaining washer and small metal top cap
    5. You should now be able to see the main valve. Using needle-nosed pliers, remove it using the spike on the top.
    6. You can now peer down into the main oil cylinder. I then carefully added enough oil to reach just past the bottom of the piston. (see below)
    7. Replace the piston - it needed a firm wiggle to get it properly seated and pushed down.
    8. Replace the small metal cap, washer and circlip.
    9. Re-bleed the actuator circuit, as you've just emptied half of the oil out of it
    10. Hopefully, you're fixed!


    I had to repeat this three times until I found the correct amount of oil to have in the cylinder. Once done, however, the post feels like new and I'm well chuffed. Obviously, you can change any seals you come across, but I didn't bother. I'm going to see how I get on with it over the coming weeks.

    This process is miles and miles from the one in the SRAM videos and, ultimately, sucks as it's hard to get all of the air out this way, but it's easy (takes me 10 mins) and needs no specialist tools other than the bleed kit (which you *do* need to bleed the actuator circuit and will need if you remove the top cap like I did).

  15. #1865
    Transition Blindside v5
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    New question here. with a shim?

    Sorta silly Q here, but anyone here using a shim with your Reverb? (ie, swapping it between 2 bikes)?
    If so, encountering any long-term issues at all? (eg. clamping force, seatpost slipping, shim much shorter than the inserted-seatpost length, etc)

    My Reverb is 30.9mm, and I'm thinking of using it also for my other frame (31.6mm) with a 0.7mm shim (x100mm/length). I don't foresee any issues, but just wanted to double-check here first.


    Problem Solvers | New Seatpost Shim Size: 30.9 to 31.6mm

    Thanks for your sanity check in advance,
    - PiroChu
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  16. #1866
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu View Post
    Sorta silly Q here, but anyone here using a shim with your Reverb? (ie, swapping it between 2 bikes)?
    If so, encountering any long-term issues at all? (eg. clamping force, seatpost slipping, shim much shorter than the inserted-seatpost length, etc)

    My Reverb is 30.9mm, and I'm thinking of using it also for my other frame (31.6mm) with a 0.7mm shim. I don't foresee any issues, but just wanted to double-check here first.


    Problem Solvers | New Seatpost Shim Size: 30.9 to 31.6mm

    Thanks for your sanity check in advance,
    - PiroChu
    Not specifically with the Reverb, but I do use a shim with a cheaper 30.9mm dropper post that I swap between my Chinese Carbon 29er (31.6mm seat tube) and my GFs MTB (older Giant Cypher 30.9mm seat tube).

    I certainly don't have any issues with it slippping in the carbon frame, so I reckon you'll be OK. YMMV though Just make sure that the shim you get has enough length to provide a decent surface area for your post

  17. #1867
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    Betarad and Laterilus-thanks for the shortcuts on the procedure.

    Once again, my post failed last weekend, though this time I didn't get the sag of and eventually sponginess. It wouldn't return to full extension unless pulled by hand and wouldn't hold air, leaking out the schrader valve.

    That is the third time in the last two months and needless to say, i was mad. Came home and starting looking online for a replacement but it seemed like all these hydraulic posts have similar issues.

    Again, my lower seal head backed itself out and the oring was the culprit. This time though, I was not in any mood to spend two hours using that leaky bleed kit or deal with the messy internal bleed process so following Betarad's lead, I took most of it apart, got the seal off, replaced the o-ring and topped up the oil in the shaft.

    THen took Laterilus' advice on the teflon tape and tightened the hell outta the seal head and put it back together.

    Whatya know...it worked out beautifully. No bleeding involved and only took 45mins, start to finish.

    Muchas gracias amigos.

  18. #1868
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    I just rebuilt mine two weeks ago. Two rides on it (Reverb Stealth) and it is blowing out oil again, sagging and not returning.

    I have now seen the O ring blow out of the inner seal head twice myself.
    I think I may put a little bit of Blue Locktite. Finicky little things.

  19. #1869
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunnar-man View Post
    Betarad and Laterilus-thanks for the shortcuts on the procedure.

    Once again, my post failed last weekend, though this time I didn't get the sag of and eventually sponginess. It wouldn't return to full extension unless pulled by hand and wouldn't hold air, leaking out the schrader valve.

    That is the third time in the last two months and needless to say, i was mad. Came home and starting looking online for a replacement but it seemed like all these hydraulic posts have similar issues.

    Again, my lower seal head backed itself out and the oring was the culprit. This time though, I was not in any mood to spend two hours using that leaky bleed kit or deal with the messy internal bleed process so following Betarad's lead, I took most of it apart, got the seal off, replaced the o-ring and topped up the oil in the shaft.

    THen took Laterilus' advice on the teflon tape and tightened the hell outta the seal head and put it back together.

    Whatya know...it worked out beautifully. No bleeding involved and only took 45mins, start to finish.

    Muchas gracias amigos.
    Well played Sir....glad I (we) could help.

  20. #1870
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    I just ordered my new bike, it's coming with a reverb stealth post. After reading this thread, I'm pretty nervous...

  21. #1871
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    I don't honestly think this thread is representative of every Reverb user. All of my riding friends have reverbs or have ridden with them at one time or another and I am the only one who has had the bad experience. Mine is also one of the oldest ones though, so that is probably a factor.
    From what I have seen online, all the other hydraulic posts have had issues too.

    I am hoping this teflon tape trick works for awhile now.

  22. #1872
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    Quote Originally Posted by drbeaker View Post
    I just ordered my new bike, it's coming with a reverb stealth post. After reading this thread, I'm pretty nervous...
    The post seems to work fine when it's working.

    Hows this - I see no cause for major concern. It is not like the posts are snapping in half and destroyed. It is a (somewhat) minor annoyance is all. It just seems like in my case at least, the inner seal-head continues to back out ever so slightly, and then the O-ring blows out. I am actually quite surprised at the fact it does back out, considering the torque that is applied to the threads. Nevertheless, it's not a catastrophic failure problem.

  23. #1873
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    Is it normal for the seat post to rotate a little bit? If I grab my saddle and twist I get about 2 degrees of rotation in either direction. This is not side to side movement but rotational. I would imagine the shaft is keyed in some way to allow it to slide up and down but not rotate. I was told, by my LBS, this is normal and inherrent to all dropper posts. The post did not do this when brand new (<10 rides ago) so I want to confirm if this is normal.

    I apologize if this has been covered. I searched the thread for rotating and didn't see what I was looking for.

  24. #1874
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    Replacing 3 o-rings w/ x-rings

    I have a thought about the three o-rings sandwiched by the glide rings in the main shaft and the two on the IFP...

    I ran into a problem w/ leaking air cans on a Monarch Plus from their first model year of the shock. The solution was to replace the supplied o-ring w/ a Buna quad/x-ring. I actually ended up using a Fox main air can seal ring (proprietary design and I can't describe what it really is, but basically the same idea as an x-ring). Anyway, the thinking was that if oil is getting out of the oil side and into the air side, why not swap out the o-ring w/ x-rings, the same solution for the Monarch leaky air can's main seal?

    That said, does anyone have a full service kit handy to take some measurements...or know of the specs on these o-rings in question? I've ordered up an A2 kit, but it's a few days out yet.

    TIA

    Edit: confession - I didn't read thru the thread since my last post (a year ago?) to see if this has already been suggested.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  25. #1875
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    Please help me diagnose my problem! I posted the following back in June:

    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    I posted this in the Santa Cruz forum earlier.
    Any advise?

    My reverb, which is still relatively new, started making me nervous this weekend.
    The speed to come up has been getting slower and slower even though the adjustment on a the remote is all the way to the plus side.

    Then this weekend it wouldn't come up. It seemed like the stroke on the remote was shorter than normal. I checked the pressure (Trailside) and it pegged my shock pump gauge, so its over 300 pounds.

    So I put it back together, and lifted the saddle to extend the post, and it started working again. Still very slow, but working.

    Also, if the post is in a partially compressed position, is it supposed to hold that position if you lift up on the seat? It seems like mine used to, but now will raise if you lift up on it (though I try not to do that).
    Bleeding fixed it for a short time, but it quickly went back to being very slow to come up. Then this weekend, it wouldn't come up at all. If I would push the button and lift up on it it would spring back down. Luckily, my legs are short enough that with it stuck down, I can raise the lower part of the post up and have my seat at the right height.

    I rode most of the day this way, then tested the post and it came up! Slow, but it was suddenly working again.

    What kind of problem would cause the post to malfunction intermittently like that?

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