Page 63 of 78 FirstFirst ... 13 53 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 73 ... LastLast
Results 1,551 to 1,575 of 1928
  1. #1551
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    160
    I'm thinking of buying a reverb stealth .but I can not see where you put the air in and do you need a valve to put air in ?

  2. #1552
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Someone please tell me what's happening with my Reverb today. It was an hour long trip to the trail head and the bike was on the hitch rack for the duration in direct sun all the way, temps today were above 90 F. I unload the bike and usually travel with the Reverb slammed, never extended, but today it worked itself all the way to the extended position. You would proceed to drop it down, it would stay for a second or two, and then slowly started creeping up to the fully extended position by itself. When you put weight on it, it didn't lock down, it simply was returning to the slammed position.

    Took it out of the frame and noticed wet spots/sweating of oil right under the Schrader valve. Also my seat tube was looking more oily than greasy. So I hooked up a pump to it and released all the pressure. Pumped it back up to 250 psi but it wasn't locking at all, just kept on creeping to the top from the slammed position. I repeated this process about 4-5 times and started riding. It was almost working but it would creep back down a millimeter or two from the extended position. So I again released all the pressure once or twice and pumped it back up to 250. It was sorta better but not wishing to stand there in the heat and get bitten by mosquitoes, I proceeded on the trail.

    During the ride, there were times where it would creep back down again a few millimeters but it wasn't constant. I would drop it down fully, extend it fully, and it would stay put until the next time I would fully drop it down. Sometimes it wouldn't stay put.

    After the 3 hour ride, I would say it stayed put in place and fully locked in the extended position, as I would press the remote when it was "fully" extended and it didn't move up.

    Question is what was the cause of all this? Did the oil during transport simply get too hot and built up too much pressure in the line? Hence the sweating spots? Do I have air in the line now too? Should I re-bleed it?

    Lastly, if the fluid did get hot during transport, what's the best remedy for the future? Should I be releasing all pressure from the post when traveling and filling it back up before I start riding?
    Sounds like you blew out this seal:
    Blown Reverb Seal

    It happens. You have to make sure you keep the inner seal head torqued down very tight. Mine has come uncrewed at times then you lose air pressure. I recently rebuilt mine again because my inner seal head unscrewed and blew out this seal. This time, I put some blue loctite on the threads and everything seems to be holding pretty good now. The o-ring seal size is 2mm thick by 19mm inner diameter. It is a perfect fit. You can get them cheap at the oringstore.com. I've measured up all the o-rings inside the reverb and have come up with a fairly good fit for most of them. You can also get the inner seal head o-rings (and charger bushing, which consequently doesn't last but about a half to 3/4 of a season for me) in the reverb 'light' rebuild kit for $8. That's actually a pretty good deal considering these are the parts that wear out the most. The post creeping and the 'sweating' of oil and grease around the schraeder valve definitely sound like inner seal head issues. You might want to change out all the o-rings on the inner seal head while you are on the inside of the post. A full post bleed wouldn't hurt either.

    Oh, while I'm thinking about it, I finally wore out my first set of keys the other day. I started to notice my Reverb getting a bit of slop in the post, so I figured it was time to change the keys (1.5 years later). I noticed all of my keys had some worn in flat spots. I measured the diameter of them all and got some surprising results. First of all, the keys are very similar in size. Hundreths of a millimeter is all that separates the different keys. My post uses the ones with the 3 lines on them. The size of each with 3 lines is 2.65mm. The size of the 4 line keys is 2.67mm. Yeah, that close. My worn out, 3 line keys were 2.62mm. Amazingly enough, that was enough wear for me to notice while seated. Since they are so close in size, I decided to put in the 4 line keys at a whopping 0.02mm larger than the 3 line keys. It worked, and not only that, the post has almost no play at all. I think I'll keep with the 4 line keys in my post (30.9mm diameter, 380mm long version).

  3. #1553
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by 2013megaAM View Post
    I'm thinking of buying a reverb stealth .but I can not see where you put the air in and do you need a valve to put air in ?
    It is underneath the saddle clamp. You have to remove your saddle to access it.

  4. #1554
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    160
    Quote Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post
    It is underneath the saddle clamp. You have to remove your saddle to access it.
    Brill that's why I could not see it thanks

  5. #1555
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jhtopilko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post
    I think your hose routing is fine. It is the same that I use, but I also use the little Rockshox hose guide thing that came with the seatpost. You could use it right where you have that ziptie holding the hose to your seat tube. It's nice because it routs the hose away from your rear tire, it goes straight down so it doesn't get hung up in your leg and it won't kink the hose.





    Do you have pics of where the hose comes out at the front? How did you enlarge the hole?

  6. #1556
    dog
    dog is offline
    sit! stay!
    Reputation: dog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,103
    1) laterilus... I hope that is not a crack in the support between the top and down tube in your frame...

    2) SRAM, after refusing to initially look at my seat post, did decide to warranty it... But only after a couple of months of waiting for the proprietary tools to do the maintenance that was supposed to have fixed this pogoing problem...
    i need to develop my crashing skills...

  7. #1557
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,344
    So my post is definitely creeping in travel from full extension. Getting to the trail head with the rebound in the slowest position and hot weather did solve the pressure issue BUT it will drop down a few millimeters during the ride at random times. I may try a rebleed but I doubt it will fix anything. It's going back to REI and let SRAM deal with it. This time I'm going to push for a new post and not a rebuild. It's crazy I'm seeing the same problem as last year with only 2 months since the supposed full rebuild by SRAM and yet I'm 50+ lbs lighter this season which at first thought was the problem last year. But I started dropping in travel in early September, almost after a full season of riding.

  8. #1558
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    270
    jhtopilko: I did not enlarge the hole. I only stuck the hose in between the shock and frame. I used Jagwire's stick on guides near the internal routing hole up to my handlebar. Not as nice looking as the internal routing, but it gets the job done. I can take a picture for you if you want. You don't need to enlarge the hole to get the hose through, but you'll have to really push on it for awhile.

    dog: Good catch. I noticed that as well after I took the picture. Scared the crap out of me. Ended up being a hair stuck to my frame.

    eurospek: A rebleed on the hose will not solve the issue. I posted above which seal more than likely needs to be changed out. The o-rings are very cheap and can be found online. You can do the service yourself and it will be much faster than sending it into SRAM. Sure, it is no fun when things go bad in a couple of months, but unfortunately we all have to deal with these problems on dropper posts. They all require a lot of maintenance. Sometimes the o-rings last 6-8 months. Sometimes they last two months. Oh well, I love my dropper post and wouldn't ride without it now so I just fix the problem when a seal goes bad. Another thing you can do to test which seal is bad (assuming you don't have the same problem I posted) is to first remove the inner post from the outer post, re-install the bottom cap on the air shaft and pump the post back up to 250psi. Jiggle the inner shaft around. Is air coming out? If so, the inside seal of the inner seal head is blown and needs replacing. I know SRAM just rebuilt your post, but I never trust the lackeys that are hired by the manufacturers. Good chance the person that rebuilt your post only changed a couple of o-rings and didn't rebuild the whole thing so the seal that is actually blown on your post could be an old one.

  9. #1559
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jhtopilko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    156

    Re: RockShox Reverb Thread

    Pictures would be very much appreciated!

    Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2
    2012 camber carbon for sale.
    Norco range on way.

  10. #1560
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,344
    Quote Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post

    eurospek: A rebleed on the hose will not solve the issue. I posted above which seal more than likely needs to be changed out. The o-rings are very cheap and can be found online. You can do the service yourself and it will be much faster than sending it into SRAM. Sure, it is no fun when things go bad in a couple of months, but unfortunately we all have to deal with these problems on dropper posts. They all require a lot of maintenance. Sometimes the o-rings last 6-8 months. Sometimes they last two months. Oh well, I love my dropper post and wouldn't ride without it now so I just fix the problem when a seal goes bad. Another thing you can do to test which seal is bad (assuming you don't have the same problem I posted) is to first remove the inner post from the outer post, re-install the bottom cap on the air shaft and pump the post back up to 250psi. Jiggle the inner shaft around. Is air coming out? If so, the inside seal of the inner seal head is blown and needs replacing. I know SRAM just rebuilt your post, but I never trust the lackeys that are hired by the manufacturers. Good chance the person that rebuilt your post only changed a couple of o-rings and didn't rebuild the whole thing so the seal that is actually blown on your post could be an old one.
    Thanks for this post and your previous post, definitely learned something for future maintenance. Like you said so yourself, I can't see myself riding without a dropper post as well. It has made me a much more aggressive rider as I've used to run my Thomson post sky high for pedaling efficiency and never really bothered dropping it on the downhills or aggressive riding. When I first brought the post to my LBS, they could only get SRAM to send a full rebuild kit, the $50 one, but I ended up taking it back to REI which sent it off to SRAM for the supposed rebuild. If the post was out of warranty, then for sure I would pop it open myself and try the rebuild as the LBS wanted $100 or so for it. But since my 2 year warranty expires in March 2014, I'm going to let SRAM deal with it, and push for a new post. Plus last turn around time for me was quick, under a week since I live in Chicago anyway. Shipping to and from takes a day.

  11. #1561
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by jhtopilko View Post
    Pictures would be very much appreciated!

    Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2
    I'm using these things from Jagwire:
    Amazon.com: Jagwire Alloy Stick-On Guides w/ C-Clips Black, Box/3: Sports & Outdoors



  12. #1562
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by stunzeed View Post
    Broke the button on my reverb, cant find instructions on how to replace it. I bought the new button kit

    any help appreciated
    Instructions should come with the new button. It's pretty easy. Basically turn speed knob to the slow setting, detach remote from hose, take off the "u" clip that holds the button shaft in place, reverse steps, bleed. The bleed will take longer than all other steps combined.

  13. #1563
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    160
    Quote Originally Posted by project_d View Post
    Instructions should come with the new button. It's pretty easy. Basically turn speed knob to the slow setting, detach remote from hose, take off the "u" clip that holds the button shaft in place, reverse steps, bleed. The bleed will take longer than all other steps combined.
    Yes screw the new button on the hose don't just push it on the pin. Screwing it on gives a much better fit I found . Bleed in slow mode and finish the bleed by bleeding the button then one final push of oil into the button . Then pop screw in then adjust to the speed you like job done

  14. #1564
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jhtopilko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post
    Thanks!!
    Installed same. Cut 4" of hose. Still hope to internally route after Hinton trip. I hope to pick up guides tonight.
    After Wednesday's ride, my first with the post, I am sold on the value. Really adds value to the experience.
    Last edited by jhtopilko; 07-25-2013 at 07:20 AM.

  15. #1565
    player hater
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    43
    cant troll the whole post. Crashed. Reverb stealth. Wont go up. I pull it up and it sucks right back down.
    pressure is good, blead it.

    WTF - how do I get it up......ha ha.

    thanks.

  16. #1566
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bpnic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,185
    I have the same problem, and was told on page 62 that a full factory rebuild is needed. I was also told that runs about$170 US bucks. Crap.


    Quote Originally Posted by bjunsveltie View Post
    cant troll the whole post. Crashed. Reverb stealth. Wont go up. I pull it up and it sucks right back down.
    pressure is good, blead it.

    WTF - how do I get it up......ha ha.

    thanks.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  17. #1567
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bpnic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,185
    Does anyone know of a place in the US in which to send my out of warranty Reverb for a complete rebuild? Besides Sram?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  18. #1568
    mtbr member
    Reputation: skyno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    639
    Quote Originally Posted by bjunsveltie View Post
    cant troll the whole post. Crashed. Reverb stealth. Wont go up. I pull it up and it sucks right back down.
    pressure is good, blead it.

    WTF - how do I get it up......ha ha.

    thanks.
    Take off the saddle - poppet valve release is underneath - push down on the valve with a blunt object - you may have to push it firmly and a bit of fluid may leak out, but it will pop right back to extended position

  19. #1569
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    53
    Quote Originally Posted by skyno View Post
    Take off the saddle - poppet valve release is underneath - push down on the valve with a blunt object - you may have to push it firmly and a bit of fluid may leak out, but it will pop right back to extended position
    he has stealth version, as I know there's an air chamber valve on it under the saddle clamp.
    poppet valve is there only on the "normal" version.

    Stealth:
    Rockshox Reverb Stealth post cutaway | Art?s Cyclery Blog

    "Normal":
    http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb7346907/p4pb7346907.jpg

  20. #1570
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    263
    No luck searching this huge thread for the past few days. Relatively new reverb with less than 200 miles on it that has a bit of fore/aft play in the shaft. Are there any quick fixes, or things to check before I deal with taking it off and sending it back?

  21. #1571
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    461
    Which length of Rock Shox reverb is suitable for my height, which is 178cm?

    How reliable and durable is this dropper seat?

  22. #1572
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1

    Oil Height Tool

    Hi, I'm facing a rebuild and search didn't help. Does anyone know the measurements to use instead of having to buy the "oil height tool" and the "IFP height tool". Thx.
    Last edited by wackerb; 08-25-2013 at 10:01 PM.

  23. #1573
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    60
    The oil height tool's markings are at the same height as the range of heights that the dropper post. So if you have a 100mm post use 100mm and 125mm post use 125mm

    I did it without the IFP tool, I just used a thin tube and syringe - kind of like what you use to bleed brakes - and I just guessed it and it turned out fine.

  24. #1574
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    20
    Hi all,

    It's been a while since I've been on this post as everything had been working perfectly...

    I bought the first generation Rockshox reverb seat post in late 2010. It has worked no problem since I purchased it, beyond the usual service, remote and/or full bleed. Each time this made the post work like new and I have never had an issue with it.

    The last couple of weeks when weighted it was dropping about 10/20mm. I performed a full bleed on it as I had done many a time. Now the seat will not compress and it is now stuck in the up position. You can push the remote in and the bleed went the same as all the rest of them.
    What did I do next?
    - Checked the air pressure is was low at 150 PSI, I topped this up to 250 PSI - same issue
    - I put it back to 150 PSI - same issue
    - I carried out another full bleed - same issue
    - Adjusting the speed dial on the remote makes no difference
    - The seat collar is not too tight

    The only other reference I have found to this is getting a full service which is not cheap. Has anyone had any experience with this and successfully fixed it? I'm happy and fairly capable to get my hands dirty!

    Thanks for you help

  25. #1575
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    160
    Quote Originally Posted by Hazbo View Post
    Hi all,

    It's been a while since I've been on this post as everything had been working perfectly...

    I bought the first generation Rockshox reverb seat post in late 2010. It has worked no problem since I purchased it, beyond the usual service, remote and/or full bleed. Each time this made the post work like new and I have never had an issue with it.

    The last couple of weeks when weighted it was dropping about 10/20mm. I performed a full bleed on it as I had done many a time. Now the seat will not compress and it is now stuck in the up position. You can push the remote in and the bleed went the same as all the rest of them.
    What did I do next?
    - Checked the air pressure is was low at 150 PSI, I topped this up to 250 PSI - same issue
    - I put it back to 150 PSI - same issue
    - I carried out another full bleed - same issue
    - Adjusting the speed dial on the remote makes no difference
    - The seat collar is not too tight

    The only other reference I have found to this is getting a full service which is not cheap. Has anyone had any experience with this and successfully fixed it? I'm happy and fairly capable to get my hands dirty!

    Thanks for you help
    hi yes it's time for a full service. The post dropping down a few mm is the sighn. 90 at TF tuned does include upgraded parts like new barb for remote and gold bigger bushing things that are bigger than the old ones so no side to side play post works smoother.

Page 63 of 78 FirstFirst ... 13 53 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 73 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •