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  1. #1451
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    anybody here replace the seals? is it relatively easy?

  2. #1452
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chasmeifyoucan View Post
    anybody here replace the seals? is it relatively easy?
    first of a four part series video from SRAM. Reverb seatpost service - part 1 - YouTube looks like id be able to handle servicing my REVERB if the need arises...
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  3. #1453
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    i did see that series, just curious if anyone has done it and what they thought of it. Wondering as i found a couple that weren't holding air for very cheap that needed new seals.

  4. #1454
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chasmeifyoucan View Post
    i did see that series, just curious if anyone has done it and what they thought of it. Wondering as i found a couple that weren't holding air for very cheap that needed new seals.
    i too got curious when i read your post and did a search myself just to see if in the eventuality that i come across issues with my reverb id be able to fix it myself. . .
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  5. #1455
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    anyone's Reverb feel "notchy" going down? mine down... like it catches mid way down... also impedes the return back up... :-s
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  6. #1456
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    Re: RockShox Reverb Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    anyone's Reverb feel "notchy" going down? mine down... like it catches mid way down... also impedes the return back up... :-s
    My bet is that your seat post clamp is too tight. That inhibits the inner post as it goes down within the outer post at the point that the bottom of the inner post has to pass the seat post clamp.
    Loosen it a bit and see if it fixed the problem. I had to add friction grease so that the clamp could be loose enough to allow the post to move freely but not have the entire post move in the seat tube.


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  7. #1457
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    What he said^^^^^

  8. #1458
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    Ah - I'll try that... Thnx for the tip!!
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  9. #1459
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    anyone's Reverb feel "notchy" going down? mine down... like it catches mid way down... also impedes the return back up... :-s
    If you have a lot of miles on your it might be ready for keys.

  10. #1460
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    For all those wondering about the full bleed procedure, I've done it. I sourced all the tools around ebay/amazon (I think) and it cost me roughly $25. Not too bad. I've been rolling with a Reverb for two years now and know the ins and outs of it fairly well. Usually, my Reverb will last roughly 8-9 months, have a problem, then I get it warrantied. This has happened 4 times now. Only 1 out of those 4 times I can honestly say I'm not quite sure what happened. It got SUPER stuck and wouldn't move at all. To be fair, I think I bent something internally somehow. I am positive I know exactly what happened on the other 3 times, and the full bleed procedure remedies this problem.

    I'm sure most of you have come across the dreaded problem where your Reverb will start to sag at full height? In my experience, this is caused by 1 of 2 problems. First fix is really easy. You've lost some air pressure. Pump it back up to 250psi. Done and done. The second problem is much more involved and it is because of one little seal. So far for me, it has been the same seal every single time. When you remove the outer tube (the portion that actually gets clamped into your seat tube), you'll see the golden colored air shaft that goes into the silver colored seal head. There is a thick o-ring on the inside of the inner seal head that the air shaft rides up and down on. That's the seal that goes bad. I came across a good way to check it by accident. First and foremost, follow the Rockshox instructions to remove the outer seat post tube. Once it is completely removed, re-install the lower seal head (the part where you connect your pump to in order to pump up the Reverb) onto the air shaft. You will usually not do this unless the outer seat post tube is still on the Reverb. Now, pump up the air shaft to 250psi. Jiggle the airshaft around once it is pumped up. Do you hear a 'psssst' noise? If so, that seal is blown and that is why your Reverb continues to sag. You need to follow the 4-part procedure to fix this problem and replace that seal. If it doesn't release any air when you jiggle it around, you are good to go.

    So, as far as the bleed procedure goes, I find it to be a bit more involved than rebuilding a Rockshox fork. Certainly a lot more messy with the spill over parts. The inside tube that you remove with a 1.5mm allen key can be a bit difficult to remove. It kinda gets stuck. You have to be careful not to scratch the inside of this tube since the air shaft moves up and down inside of it. It may take you a few tries to bleed it like in the video, but take your time. Overall, it isn't that difficult.

    Lastly, I think the full rebuild kit is a bit of overkill. I have one just in case some of the parts go bad, but in reality, I think Rockshox did it perfect with the $8 basic kit. Those are the o-rings that go bad quickly. The basic kit comes with all the seals for the inner seal head and the charger bushing. That is what is going to go bad in about a year's worth of riding. I also measured all the seals and bought replacements from the oringstore.com, but honestly, some of them don't look exactly quite like the right size. I'll report back whenever I get around to trying out my other seals that I got from the oringstore. I did however buy a quad seal for the one seal that ends up being the culprit every time. Next time my Reverb goes bad, I'll try the quad ring.

    Hope this helps for all you DIY folks.

  11. #1461
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    Laterilus, thanks a lot for the useful info.
    My Reverb has some play back-forth and side-to-side when fully retracted.
    Could you say out of your experience, what's the main cause of that?
    I assume that's the upper bushing in the outer tube collar (is it in the basic kit?).
    What about the lower bushing on the inner tube bottom part?
    Does the 3 keys also need to be replaced?

  12. #1462
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    I have yet to replace the large black collar on the outside of the seatpost (where the upper bushing is located). I don't think that bushing sees a lot of the strain. You can't replace that bushing. You have to buy a new collar. I'm not saying it won't go bad, but I don't think it goes bad as fast as some of the other wear items. I think the inside bushing (what you are calling the lower bushing or Rockshox calls the charger bushing) is what is probably causing the play in your seat post. That bushing goes bad on me every 6 months or so. The charger bushing DOES come in the basic o-ring kit. I figured Rockshox put it in there because it does go bad so quickly. The charger bushing is also the cause sometimes of my post not moving up and down smoothly. I know the bushing is going bad once the post is sorta getting stuck on its travel. I'll see the outer covering of the bushing start to separate away from the metal portion when this happens. Either way, it is an easy and cheap fix. BTW, all these posts are going to have some side to side and forward to backward play. If you can't feel it when you are seated then it isn't bad yet. I've never replaced the keys. Every time I open up the post they are still perfectly round and their diameter measures exactly with brand new keys so I don't see a reason to replace them. I would think you'd need to crash and torque on your saddle pretty bad in order to damage the keys where they'd need to be replaced.

  13. #1463
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post
    For all those wondering about the full bleed procedure, I've done it. I sourced all the tools around ebay/amazon (I think) and it cost me roughly $25. Not too bad. I've been rolling with a Reverb for two years now and know the ins and outs of it fairly well. Usually, my Reverb will last roughly 8-9 months, have a problem, then I get it warrantied. This has happened 4 times now. Only 1 out of those 4 times I can honestly say I'm not quite sure what happened. It got SUPER stuck and wouldn't move at all. To be fair, I think I bent something internally somehow. I am positive I know exactly what happened on the other 3 times, and the full bleed procedure remedies this problem.

    I'm sure most of you have come across the dreaded problem where your Reverb will start to sag at full height? In my experience, this is caused by 1 of 2 problems. First fix is really easy. You've lost some air pressure. Pump it back up to 250psi. Done and done. The second problem is much more involved and it is because of one little seal. So far for me, it has been the same seal every single time. When you remove the outer tube (the portion that actually gets clamped into your seat tube), you'll see the golden colored air shaft that goes into the silver colored seal head. There is a thick o-ring on the inside of the inner seal head that the air shaft rides up and down on. That's the seal that goes bad. I came across a good way to check it by accident. First and foremost, follow the Rockshox instructions to remove the outer seat post tube. Once it is completely removed, re-install the lower seal head (the part where you connect your pump to in order to pump up the Reverb) onto the air shaft. You will usually not do this unless the outer seat post tube is still on the Reverb. Now, pump up the air shaft to 250psi. Jiggle the airshaft around once it is pumped up. Do you hear a 'psssst' noise? If so, that seal is blown and that is why your Reverb continues to sag. You need to follow the 4-part procedure to fix this problem and replace that seal. If it doesn't release any air when you jiggle it around, you are good to go.

    So, as far as the bleed procedure goes, I find it to be a bit more involved than rebuilding a Rockshox fork. Certainly a lot more messy with the spill over parts. The inside tube that you remove with a 1.5mm allen key can be a bit difficult to remove. It kinda gets stuck. You have to be careful not to scratch the inside of this tube since the air shaft moves up and down inside of it. It may take you a few tries to bleed it like in the video, but take your time. Overall, it isn't that difficult.

    Lastly, I think the full rebuild kit is a bit of overkill. I have one just in case some of the parts go bad, but in reality, I think Rockshox did it perfect with the $8 basic kit. Those are the o-rings that go bad quickly. The basic kit comes with all the seals for the inner seal head and the charger bushing. That is what is going to go bad in about a year's worth of riding. I also measured all the seals and bought replacements from the oringstore.com, but honestly, some of them don't look exactly quite like the right size. I'll report back whenever I get around to trying out my other seals that I got from the oringstore. I did however buy a quad seal for the one seal that ends up being the culprit every time. Next time my Reverb goes bad, I'll try the quad ring.

    Hope this helps for all you DIY folks.
    I'm a DIY person myself, but there's one small problem. If that air seal fails in the field on a long high-altitude, back country ride (like I often do in CO), it's going to be a miserable ride out. I'm just not sure I can trust it. It's already failed twice on me, once in the field and once at home while trying to put more air in it. Not to mention the play it's developed is disconcerting.

    I started this thread and if you read my original post you'll see I was one of the biggest fans of this thing going in, but longterm testing has changed my mind unfortunately.
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  14. #1464
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    I'm a DIY person myself, but there's one small problem. If that air seal fails in the field on a long high-altitude, back country ride (like I often do in CO), it's going to be a miserable ride out. I'm just not sure I can trust it. It's already failed twice on me, once in the field and once at home while trying to put more air in it. Not to mention the play it's developed is disconcerting.

    I started this thread and if you read my original post you'll see I was one of the biggest fans of this thing going in, but longterm testing has changed my mind unfortunately.
    I hear ya, man. I've been lucky in that the farthest I've been out when this has happened is 2 miles. I'm in full agreement that the Reverb is the best when it works and sucks when it goes bad. I was probably going to switch it out until Rockshox finally released those new videos that showed how to fix it. Sure, that doesn't help on the ride, but I didn't like waiting for the new warranty post to come in.

    There is however a fix on the ride. That silver collar that comes with the Reverb. It is meant to shorten how much the post can drop. If you carry it with you on a ride, it is a quick fix to at least have your saddle at your normal riding height. You can raise your saddle to the highest point (don't sit on the saddle to make it sag) then put on that silver collar. It is supposed to hold it in place.

  15. #1465
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    Quote Originally Posted by methodman View Post
    If you have a lot of miles on your it might be ready for keys.
    It's brand new. I'll check the seat clamp tighteness as others have suggested. But right now it's in a box heading to Moab - which I will be heading to in less than a week.
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  16. #1466
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    curious to know what you guys are referring to as "KEYS".. thanks..
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  17. #1467
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    curious to know what you guys are referring to as "KEYS".. thanks..
    little pins which prevent the moving part of the post from rotating.
    look at that message - RockShox Reverb Thread - Page 15

  18. #1468
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    Quote Originally Posted by N0Mad View Post
    little pins which prevent the moving part of the post from rotating.
    look at that message - RockShox Reverb Thread - Page 15
    oh thanks...
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  19. #1469
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    Does anyone know the difference between the A1 and A2 reverb posts? I notice that they do have some different parts when looking at the replacement parts diagrams, and the A2 has a black speed adjuster on the remote. I just got a 2013 reverb from ebay and its an A2, sounds a little funny on the way up, but it works perfectly and didnt even need a bleed out of the box.
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  20. #1470
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    I recently picked up a new 2013 Reverb and I have been really pleased with it so far. I rode it a few times then decided to shorten the hose. After I shortened the hose I tried to just bleed from the remote end. This didn't go so well and the post was really slow. I decided to do a full bleed and then the post stopped working all together.

    I then removed the post from the bike hung it upside down as low as I could and bleed to the remote end straight up. Wow what a difference. My post works like new again.

    If anyone is having issues I would Strongly recommend removing the post and hanging it during the bleed.

  21. #1471
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    I just finished a complete rebuild on mine, as I was dealing with both the forward /rearward movement and the 5-10mm height drop.

    It was still within the warranty period and because it would involve sending it away for an undetermined amount of time (I am in Canada and it would have to be sent down to the US), I decided to order the rebuild kit and bushing collar and do it myself.

    After following the videos online, I was able to do it and it is working thus far. I was quite surprised, actually. When I saw all the moving parts involved in making htis post work, I was convinced that I would be sending it back into SRAM to fix it.

    The thing that annoyed me were the Reverb specific tools that I had to purchase to complete this. (I experienced this as well when I was rebuilding my Monarch and found out that I needed a Monarch specific air valve adapter)

    All in all, fairly easy to do if you have a good bench vise and ample set of tools.

  22. #1472
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    Hello,

    I had a question about the bleed process. I recently did a full bleed on my Reverb but I found it very difficult to press down on one syringe and pull on the other. It felt like that the whole time through the entire process. It felt like the syringes were "getting stuck" or not moving freely. These are the same syringes that came with my Reverb. With the syringes empty, it was still not moving freely until i did the push/pull motion several times. It would feel stuck again if I stop and only move freely after serveral times of doing the same motion. Are you supposed to lube the syringe seals so they will move smoothly? If so, with what? Have any of you experienced this when bleeding the Reverb? Thanks in advance!

  23. #1473
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    It helps to use a little of the 2.5 weight fluid or some other lube to help them move a little easier

  24. #1474
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    yes, exactly. I lube the syringes with the same 2.5 wt oil, otherwise they stuck.
    and after some time the rubber on the syringe plungers gets "old" and sticky. I'll have to replace the syringes from my bleed kit soon.

  25. #1475
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    Quote Originally Posted by N0Mad View Post
    yes, exactly. I lube the syringes with the same 2.5 wt oil, otherwise they stuck.
    and after some time the rubber on the syringe plungers gets "old" and sticky. I'll have to replace the syringes from my bleed kit soon.
    Yep, keep them lubed up and they'll last longer.

    I picked up a second set of the high-zoot Avid brake bleed kit -specifically for the my two Reverbs. Much higher quality syringes - they don't get screwed up like the cheap ones.

    Just make sure to label the ones for the brake and post as such. Don't want to cross-contaminate the fluids and end up eating the seals on anything.

    Was also having to do a bleed about every six months to keep things working smooth and fast. Once I swapped to the newer hose/barb setup, that interval has decreased significantly. IMO, the non-threaded barbs on the remote end led to fluid leaking out and air getting in. The also allow for a way better full system bleed, and really cramming the fluid in there. My Reverbs are faaaaaast!
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