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  1. #1376
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    Quote Originally Posted by onlyzenki View Post
    im pretty sure it is user error. the syringes leak from what i believe is the red plastic that connects the tube. It leaks when i try to pass fluid back and forth from one syringe to the other while providing pressure on one and a vacuum on the other.
    Where on the red plastic adaptor does it leak from? The hose side or the syringe side? I use a zip tie on the hose side to tighten the hose against the red nipple, and make sure to screw in the adaptor properly into the syringe.

    -S

  2. #1377
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    Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...

    For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

    If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

    If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

    Correct?

    ------------------

    Also any preference between left and right version?

  3. #1378
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoingOffRoading View Post
    Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...

    For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

    If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

    If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

    Correct?

    ------------------

    Also any preference between left and right version?
    Yes, length is dependent on your frame and also your height. Some frames can't take a long seatpost and so you may need a shorter one. Then again, I think the 125mm/380mm Reverbs are being phased out - can't seem to find many of them for sale these days, except used or old models.

    Left and right will depend on your personal preference and what's on your bike currently. I have the fork lockout on my right so the other available spot for the seat remote is on the left.

    -S

  4. #1379
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoingOffRoading View Post
    Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...

    For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

    If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

    If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

    Correct?

    ------------------

    Also any preference between left and right version?
    Some people need that 420mm to make it safe to run in their frames, due to minimum insertion requirements (ex. for a person who has very long legs and likes small frames). People get 380mm otherwise, for weight savings and less waste. The bottom most part of the seat post should extend past the area where the top-tube meets the seat tube.

    Left/right only refers to which side/hand the remote is designed for. I have little doubt that the right side is most popular. If people don't run a front shifter, then they can run the "right-hand" remote upside-down, under the bar, on the left side, which I think is the best place.

    I'm currently on a 125mm 380mm right version (1st gen) that's been working fine ever since I got it. Only bled it once so far in over a year, when I trimmed the line. I don't leave it sitting unused for long periods of time, so it doesn't really have time to run into funny issues from simply sitting around.
    Last edited by Varaxis; 12-09-2012 at 05:06 PM.

  5. #1380
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    Scanned all 50 pages and didn't find the exact issue I'm having - While extended fully the post has a slight (maybe 3mm) amount of free play where it moved up and down by hand making a 'clunking' noise. Aside from this issue it works fine, though when you sit on the seat it has that tiny amount of sink. Strange though as it does not appear to be the hydro system, which has been bleed a handful of times trying to remedy this.

    Thanks

  6. #1381
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    Can anyone tell me the MAX SEAT HEIGHT for a 125mmx380mm Reverb?

    ...Post inserted to its MINIMUM insertion depth with full extension.

  7. #1382
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    Just take away 80mm or 85mm from the total post length, as that's what the MIN insertion depth is for the Reverb, but IMO, I wouldn't run less than 100mm inserted into the frame.

  8. #1383
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    I need help, I just got a reverb as part of a trade deal. The only thing is that when he sent the post off to sram to get rebuilt he took the bolts out. Well in that amount of time the metal pieces that the bolts screw into have vanished. I am looking for some help on where I can find them or order new bolt set up. Anyone know anything?

  9. #1384
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    ^ You need SRAM part number 11.6815.006.010 (Post Clamp Kit Reverb). Price is S21.95 and your LBS should be able to order it without a problem for you, took a week for mine to get here when I was trying to track down a creaking on my Reverb this season.

    Or buy online here.

  10. #1385
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    Would a simple barrel nut from the hardware store not suffice?

  11. #1386
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    I have had a problem develop on my reverb today. I went to use the bike and the rubber boot has sliped off at the remoted end and there is oil leaking from around the button shaft from the body of the remote. Any one have any ideas what the problem is?

  12. #1387
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    Got the Reverb back from warranty today. Repaired, not replaced, but it looks fine and feels great. Hopefully it holds up!
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  13. #1388
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    New question here. minimum exposed seatpost length for reverb

    I'm thinking about getting a dropper post, but my exposed seatpost length on my bike is pretty short. It is 6.5 inches from top of seat collar to the bottom of the post clamp head, about 7.25 inches from the top of the seat collar to the seat rails at the center the post. My current post is zero offset like the reverb. I probably can/will have my max seat height with the dropper about 0.5 inch higher than this current height. Will a reverb work for this w/out being too tall? Is the 100 mm travel version shorter from the 'collar' of the reverb post to the clamp head, or does it just move less? If it is shorter, would the 100 mm version be a better choice for my bike set-up, or could I still use the 125 mm version without having my fully extended seat height being too tall for me? Insertion depth into my frame is not an issue; my frame is a large w/a full lenght seat tube, and you can completely slam down a standard 400 mm seat post.

  14. #1389
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    Sounds to me like the 100mm will be your best option. And yes the distance between the collars is less on the 100mm version.

  15. #1390
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    I measured 188mm (7.4 inches), from seat clamp to seat rail for the 125mm dropper post on my bike. So that will be pushing it for you depending on how much higher you truly are willing to put your seat. Personally, I think you will be OK - I couldn't believe how much higher I put my seat once I got the dropper.
    Assuming the design is otherwise the same, the 100mm version should put you at 163 mm (6.4 inches) which will of course leave you plenty of leeway. I guess it depends on availability and how aggressively you want to be able to lower your seat. I have probably never used my whole 120mm of drop, but certainly know people who have.

    Good luck. Hope my measurements don't steer you wrong!



    Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

  16. #1391
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    Thanks for the info Albertdc! I think from your measurement, 125 version will be OK. I tried that height w/my current post and it felt good.

  17. #1392
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    You're welcome. I remeasured and got 190mm to the center of the seat rails.

    The dropper post and carbon wheels ("cheap Chinese rims" on Hope Pro II hubs) are the two best upgrades I've ever done on a bike. :thumbup:

    Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

  18. #1393
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    Are the reverbs stealth released already? I'm planning to get a dropper post soon and still thinking what to buy and some friends have told me to just wait for the stealths as they are more durable/reliable than the previous models.any truth in this?

  19. #1394
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    Gotta love SRAM's customer service. Not.

    Dropped of my 2012 Reverb at LBS to have sent for warranty last week and got a call back today. SRAM doesn't want to see my post at all. They can magically diagnose the problem it seems without evening touching it. My problem was that it sags in travel a few centimeters, started happening at the end of last season. Even after a full rebleed. I started riding in May, weekends only, and problem started in September. That's 5 months of riding, hardly a full season of hard riding for it to go broke so quickly.

    SRAM ran my serial number, no Reverbs from that production batch came back for warranty and said they aren't taking mine back either. WTF. They said like any other suspension product it requires maintenance, 50 hrs/6 months for basic rebuild (kit costs under $10) or 100 hrs/1 year for a full rebuild (kit costs under $50).

    All they offered was to send the basic rebuild kit to my LBS and that's it. LBS wants $50 to perform the service. I think I'll try my chances doing it myself first after watching a few vids, can't be rocket science.

    OR simply return the post to REI (original place of purchase), save myself about $100 (as I paid close to $350 for it), and buy a new Reverb for $250 and ride another year.

  20. #1395
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Gotta love SRAM's customer service. Not.

    Dropped of my 2012 Reverb at LBS to have sent for warranty last week and got a call back today. SRAM doesn't want to see my post at all. They can magically diagnose the problem it seems without evening touching it. My problem was that it sags in travel a few centimeters, started happening at the end of last season. Even after a full rebleed. I started riding in May, weekends only, and problem started in September. That's 5 months of riding, hardly a full season of hard riding for it to go broke so quickly.

    SRAM ran my serial number, no Reverbs from that production batch came back for warranty and said they aren't taking mine back either. WTF. They said like any other suspension product it requires maintenance, 50 hrs/6 months for basic rebuild (kit costs under $10) or 100 hrs/1 year for a full rebuild (kit costs under $50).

    All they offered was to send the basic rebuild kit to my LBS and that's it. LBS wants $50 to perform the service. I think I'll try my chances doing it myself first after watching a few vids, can't be rocket science.

    OR simply return the post to REI (original place of purchase), save myself about $100 (as I paid close to $350 for it), and buy a new Reverb for $250 and ride another year.
    OK, that is a bummer. My experiences with SRAM have been just the opposite. I've had 4 reverbs replaced by them now with the most recent being a few months ago for the same issue you are having now.

    1. Use your LBS. You might talk to SRAM through the 800 number, but they won't deal with you.
    2. Be persistent and remain kind. I took SRAM up on their offer of the rebuild kit, but that didn't fully resolve the problem. When the LBS couldn't perform a full rebuild sucessfully, I wasn't charged and SRAM sent out a new post.

    SRAM is worlds above many in the bike industry in taking care of paying customers. I'm sure you can get this taken care of, just use your LBS for service and work through the official channels.

  21. #1396
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    ^ So the basic rebuild kit didn't take care of your sagging problem? My LBS isn't exactly close (25 miles one way) plus I didn't buy it through them but REI (but they are definitely taking care of me by attempting this warranty). I already contacted REI but they are not expecting any Reverbs in what I need (420x31.6x125 R).

    And I did call SRAM after talking with my LBS, I asked under what circumstances will they physically take it back for warranty purposes, but the guy made it sound like 90% of all warranty repairs is handled by the LBS, they just send parts out, seems kinda lazy on their part. They diagnose the problem with the LBS tech, but the tech doesn't know any more than what I told him.

    I'll try the rebuild kit myself, if not, I'm simply going to return it to REI and pick up a new one somewhere else. I'm not going to waste my time driving back and forth to the LBS while they diagnose it over the phone. Or be out $50 on having the LBS rebuild it, only to have it still sag. What hurts the most is that I'm in Chicago daily, I can drop off my Reverb myself to them.

  22. #1397
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    OK, that is a bummer. My experiences with SRAM have been just the opposite. I've had 4 reverbs replaced by them now with the most recent being a few months ago for the same issue you are having now.

    1. Use your LBS. You might talk to SRAM through the 800 number, but they won't deal with you.
    2. Be persistent and remain kind. I took SRAM up on their offer of the rebuild kit, but that didn't fully resolve the problem. When the LBS couldn't perform a full rebuild sucessfully, I wasn't charged and SRAM sent out a new post.

    SRAM is worlds above many in the bike industry in taking care of paying customers. I'm sure you can get this taken care of, just use your LBS for service and work through the official channels.
    Great customer service from SRAM also. I have had two warranty issues with Reverb posts and both times I was sent a new one. The first lasted almost one year and the second about six months. Post was purchased from local LBS and warrantied through them.

    I would be cautious about trying to rebuild the post yourself. Getting the end / valve off of the inner shaft is not as easy as it looks in the video with the soft jaw vise. Too bad SRAM did not design those parts to be dis-assembled with a couple of wrenches. The rebuild would be easy if that was the case.
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  23. #1398
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    ^ So the basic rebuild kit didn't take care of your sagging problem? My LBS isn't exactly close (25 miles one way) plus I didn't buy it through them but REI (but they are definitely taking care of me by attempting this warranty). I already contacted REI but they are not expecting any Reverbs in what I need (420x31.6x125 R).

    And I did call SRAM after talking with my LBS, I asked under what circumstances will they physically take it back for warranty purposes, but the guy made it sound like 90% of all warranty repairs is handled by the LBS, they just send parts out, seems kinda lazy on their part. They diagnose the problem with the LBS tech, but the tech doesn't know any more than what I told him.

    I'll try the rebuild kit myself, if not, I'm simply going to return it to REI and pick up a new one somewhere else. I'm not going to waste my time driving back and forth to the LBS while they diagnose it over the phone. Or be out $50 on having the LBS rebuild it, only to have it still sag. What hurts the most is that I'm in Chicago daily, I can drop off my Reverb myself to them.
    I think they did the full rebuild kit, but I'm not sure.

    I wouldn't have had 4 reverbs already if the LBS could fix'm. I don't know of one that has been sucessfully fixed by the LBSs from my ride crew.

    Yeah, sag is unacceptable.

    Good luck!

  24. #1399
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post

    I would be cautious about trying to rebuild the post yourself.
    You weren't kidding. Just finished watching the full rebuild 4 part video , lots and lots of o-rings. Looks doable but then again the farthest I've ever been in the suspension world is just new fluids or a simple brake bleed. Knowing myself, something would go wrong somewhere lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post

    Good luck!
    Thanks, it just irks me to read people's experiences with SRAM have been the complete opposite of mine so far. Love my Reverb to death and will not ride without one now, but so far on the CS end (especially for what they are charging for the product), I'm left feeling a bit sour.

    IMO nothing compares to FOX CS service. You send in a fork for a creaking CSU, and you get it returned with a new CSU, complete service done on it, and brand new seals. But most importantly, no middle man to deal with.

  25. #1400
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    New question here. Stealth Hose Barb & Fitting Measurement?

    Have few questions for 150x430mm Stealth owners that I haven't been able to find despite searches - sorry if answered before. 30.9dia is ideal, but I'd guess the fitments are the same across both sizes.

    Can someone confirm how far out the hose connector & barb protector protrude from the bottom of the post?
    Am I right in assuming that they do not contribute to the 430mm length?
    What is the measurement from full extension rails to end of the hose barb?

    For context, I have an 09 Felt Compulsion with a funky interrupted seat tube, and the weld hole at the bottom would be perfect for a Stealth - but only if the fittings & hose barb are short enough to stay out of the way of the tube 'trapezoid' (for lack of a better term...). My 420mm Reverb suggests that I have ~20mm to play with tube-wise before bottoming out, so it's probably going to be a tight fit, if it's even possible. "2009.feltracing.com/09/images/catalog/xl/9057.png" shows the seat tube in question.

    Thanks in advance!
    fed

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