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  1. #1326
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    there you go....it's unanimous.

  2. #1327
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    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    My money is on this: your seat post clamp is too tight. That squeezes the stationary part of the seat tube and the telescoping part has resistance when it goes through the restricted area. Loosen your clamp a bit and see if works better. You may need friction paste to keep the seat post from moving once the clamp is looser.

    Sent from my Galaxy S3
    But be careful of it creaking. I used Finish Line Carbon slip paste with my initial install and it took me half a season or riding and even going as far as buying a new clamp and hardware kit to stop my Reverb from creaking loudly whenever in the saddle.

    With the paste and not enough torque on the Chromag QR and my post slipped constantly in the seat tube. Too much torque and it creaked so bad that I almost thought about returning to a Thomson post.

    First time dealing with the carbon paste and it truly has been a bad experience.

    Cleaned up my seat tube from the carbon slip paste, cleaned the Reverb, applied a little Red Devil grease and my QR is tight enough that my post now never slips. Ever. And it operates smoothly as well.

  3. #1328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    there you go....it's unanimous.
    Seriously - 3 simultaneous posts, all with the same answer! :thumbup:

    Sent from my Galaxy S3

  4. #1329
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    Followup on my Reverb. After a ride yesterday I noticed the seatpost dropping down about an inch or so when weight is put on it. A quick google suggested to check air pressure. My shock pump read less than 100 psi when I filled it to 250 not a month ago. After a quick fill, I could actually hear air leaking out. I checked anyway to see if that fixed the dropping down issue, to find the post is now completely stuck, won't budge an inch with all my weight on it, with or without air.

    For the record the post has been used for a little over 4 months, although it did see some pretty heavy use during that period. Will contact SRAM on monday.

  5. #1330
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    Which service kit?

    How does one know whether they need a basic service kit or the full kit?

    My post will settle about 1/4" when I put my body weight on it but then it's solid. This started after several hundred rides. Will the basic seat post o'ring kit solve this problem or is it an issue with the IFP?.

  6. #1331
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL View Post
    How does one know whether they need a basic service kit or the full kit?

    My post will settle about 1/4" when I put my body weight on it but then it's solid. This started after several hundred rides. Will the basic seat post o'ring kit solve this problem or is it an issue with the IFP?.
    I think it is the IFP or some kind of valve failure. As my post just started doing that, and I traced it back to an air leak, which, after refilling the air, caused a complete bind of the post. I have yet to contact SRAM about it, but I think it's much more than what the basic service will fix.

  7. #1332
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    Got a good deal on a 2011 380x125 reverb, decided to swap the parts needed into my 2012 420x125 to save some weight.

    Note: this was a HUGE pain. It took hours, I rebuild forks all the time, this is way more touchy to get right. Don't do it unless your post is broken.

    The only differences between the 380 and 420 are the inner piston (shorter shaft) and the outer black tube. Everything else is interchangeable.

    The only differences between the 2011 and 2012 are a grey coating on the inner piston shaft for the 2012 vs a gold on the 2011, and what looks like pipe dope on all the threaded connections on the 2012 (this is likely the main reason the newer ones are more reliable).

    I used the upper tube from the 2012 with the lower tube from the 2011. It worked fine, but the logo no longer lines up. They must have moved the position of the keys relative to the seat position.

    The bleed instructions are good. The hard part is getting the top plug thing in with enough fluid under it to prevent an air bubble, but not too much fluid otherwise it won't go down enough to fit the cap and snap ring.

  8. #1333
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    Quote Originally Posted by kroe View Post
    The only differences between the 2011 and 2012 are a grey coating on the inner piston shaft for the 2012 vs a gold on the 2011, and what looks like pipe dope on all the threaded connections on the 2012 (this is likely the main reason the newer ones are more reliable.
    Interesting about the pipe dope. My 2012 failed with an air pressure loss due to the inner seal head somehow unscrewing itself from the inner shaft until its o-ring finally popped out. This was despite having the pipe dope on its threads. During the rebuild, I found it difficult to hold the inner shaft tight enough to be able to tighten the seal head to spec. I just hope I got it tight enough.

    I'm trying to understand how there is any rotating force against the inner seal head that would cause the unscrewing. The inner shaft is keyed to the outer, so none of that rotates. Does the inner piston shaft rotate as it moves in and out of the inner seal head? I don't think it does, but could be wrong. My inner seal head was unscrewed about 4 or 5 full rotations, I just can't imagine this happening simply from vibration, especially with the pipe dope.

  9. #1334
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluPenguin View Post
    Followup on my Reverb. After a ride yesterday I noticed the seatpost dropping down about an inch or so when weight is put on it. A quick google suggested to check air pressure. My shock pump read less than 100 psi when I filled it to 250 not a month ago. After a quick fill, I could actually hear air leaking out. I checked anyway to see if that fixed the dropping down issue, to find the post is now completely stuck, won't budge an inch with all my weight on it, with or without air.

    For the record the post has been used for a little over 4 months, although it did see some pretty heavy use during that period. Will contact SRAM on monday.
    Your symptoms sound identical to my recent failure, with the exception of the total lock-up. Kind of sounds like yours went a step further. Perhaps your inner seal head has come completely unscrewed from the shaft and is now lodged in there. Hard to imagine though, I would think loss of air pressure would occur long before the seal head becomes completely unscrewed.

    Another thing I found upon disassembly was the initial disintegration of the inner seal head bushing, which seems to be another effect of the seal head rotating loose. Perhaps yours has disintegrated to the point of lock-up.

    I guess the only way you'll know the cause for sure is to disassemble it yourself, but I don't recommend it. Get it back to Sram, it sounds like yours may have some seriously damaged parts.

  10. #1335
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL View Post
    How does one know whether they need a basic service kit or the full kit?

    My post will settle about 1/4" when I put my body weight on it but then it's solid. This started after several hundred rides. Will the basic seat post o'ring kit solve this problem or is it an issue with the IFP?.
    Is your air pressure low? If so, you have a leak that the basic kit will probably fix. The basic kit says o-rings only, but it does come with the inner seal head bushing also, which takes you into disassembly as far as most people really want to go anyway. As kroe mentions, it gets pretty tricky after this (I'll take his word on this, especially after viewing the video instructions).

    Although I'm not real clear on when its really called for, a bleed might solve your issue. I would try this if your air pressure appears normal.

  11. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    Your symptoms sound identical to my recent failure, with the exception of the total lock-up. Kind of sounds like yours went a step further. Perhaps your inner seal head has come completely unscrewed from the shaft and is now lodged in there. Hard to imagine though, I would think loss of air pressure would occur long before the seal head becomes completely unscrewed.

    Another thing I found upon disassembly was the initial disintegration of the inner seal head bushing, which seems to be another effect of the seal head rotating loose. Perhaps yours has disintegrated to the point of lock-up.

    I guess the only way you'll know the cause for sure is to disassemble it yourself, but I don't recommend it. Get it back to Sram, it sounds like yours may have some seriously damaged parts.
    Okay so I still don't know what's wrong with it, but SRAM (through my dealer), has agreed to send me a new post. The catch is I'm not going to get it until December. Apparently SRAM already realized the failures, and they're working on a new model, which will be available around then to be sent out.

  12. #1337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    Is your air pressure low
    No, the IFP is holding 250 psi; the post (when new) would settle about .010-.020 under my weight (165#), it's just progressively gotten worse over the course of about 375 rides.
    I suspect the IFP has lost a bit of fluid through the seals and that's at the heart of the problem.

  13. #1338
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    The inner seal head shouldn't rotate, but for whatever reason it is prone to unscrewing, my theory is that the inner sea head unscrewing is the primary failure mode for these posts. Two of the three failed reverbs I have rebuilt had loosened up at that point. Surprised it loosened up with the new goop they put on there. I'd use loctite.

    It could be pressure in the chamber not rotation that causes it to unscrew. Not sure why this would unscrew but suspension forks with similar pressure and threaded connections would not, but its a theory.

  14. #1339
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    Need some help with setup of my Reverb. The return speed was nice and quick before (the way i wanted it to be) but it was DAMN hard to press the actuator. Someone said to bleed it. It has now had a proper bleed on it but it's still very hard to press AND- even with the barrel adjuster all the way turned, the return is too slow! Not crazy slow but not nearly as crisp and i'd like. So now it's worse. Any suggestions? thanks!

  15. #1340
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    After 5 months and tons of riding, mine started to sag this past week. Checked the psi, it was fine.
    Luckily for me, I bought it at MEC and they stand behind everything they sell for life. Within 10 minutes, the new one is on my bike.

    I love the reverb, its a great seatpost and I love MEC too for their warranty.

  16. #1341
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorkboy View Post
    After 5 months and tons of riding, mine started to sag this past week. Checked the psi, it was fine.
    Luckily for me, I bought it at MEC and they stand behind everything they sell for life. Within 10 minutes, the new one is on my bike.

    I love the reverb, its a great seatpost and I love MEC too for their warranty.
    See, that's exacltly what's wrong with mine, sags at 250 psi. And it was the reason why I bought mine at REI for their return policy, only now to find out they don't carry the Reverb at all anymore. I can either return it to them or send in for warranty to SRAM. I wish I could simply exchange mine and be on my way.

  17. #1342
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    Hi, I know little about these , but have ridden bikes with them and know I want one , have seen this online for $200
    ]Rock Shox Reverb 100mm Dropper Seatpost 30.9x420 RC

    Is this a good- one, it seems cheap ,is it an old model ? Is that why it is cheap ? Would I be better spending more ? I have a 2012 Rumblefish, would it be compatible ?

    The 2013 model Rumblefish now comes with one , this one , RockShox Reverb, 31.6mm, zero offset,

    How do they compare? Which one would you recommend for my bike ?

    Any help appreciated

  18. #1343
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    The one you listed is 30.9mm diameter, the Rumblefish uses a 31.6mm seat post.

    It won't be compatible with your Rumblefish, unless you shim the seatpost (which I wouldn't really advise as you need to clamp it lightly to avoid issues with the post sticking).

  19. #1344
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    I saw that ad for the closeout Reverbs yesterday, and as of then, the 30.9's were more expensive, but they still had 31.6 for that price.
    Golden Bike Park

    Golden Connector Trails need your support!

  20. #1345
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    If your on the taller size, you would probably want at least a 125mm range of adjustment. Perhaps this is also why the 100mm is less expensive.

  21. #1346
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    thanks for your help , I almost ordered the wrong thing

  22. #1347
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    Last edited by Silverfern; 11-04-2012 at 09:44 PM. Reason: wrong paste

  23. #1348
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    Excuse my ignorance I know little about them , but what is the difference between the two,

    Rock Shox Reverb Adjustable Seatpost 31.6 125mm

  24. #1349
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    The ads are definitely a bit confusing. The only significant difference I can see is the more expensive one comes with a left-hand remote, the less expensive one is the more common right hand remote. Both appear to be 2012 versions.

    There's rumor that there may be an updated version in the works, to address lingering issues with the 2012. Perhaps this is partly the reason for the sale pricing.

  25. #1350
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    Did you bleed it with the right fluid? if so check the line, I found once the line was smashed causing the same behavior
    Hope this help
    In my workshop, dirty hands is a state of mind

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