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  1. #1301
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil.beltchenko View Post
    Guys, I broke my reverb button off from a crash! First off does it matter if i get a left or right assembly button! second, has anyone delt with this before? I assume ill need to bleed after i install the new button? any info would be great!
    yes, you'll have to bleed the system. It's not diffuclt, do a search for it. The crappy part is shelling out the $100 or so bucks for a new button. It at least comes with a new hose and some other little hardware bits.

  2. #1302
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    Quote Originally Posted by schulzeee View Post
    I started out with the remote on the left side and underneath the handle bar. It definitely worked but I didn't like having a third 'job' for my front brake hand to do. I had the same brake as you at the time.
    I think the best option is to get the left remote because if i buy the right remote and i'm not able to set it on the left side underneath I would have to set it near the remote shock all together...

    Do You agree?

  3. #1303
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    Hi everyone, i just bought the Rockshox Reverb last few days. Everything was going quite well, except the saddle clamp. I am facing a problem where my saddle keep shaking (a little bit), although the the bolts were tighten. This is quite weird as i didnt face this kind of problem when i am using my old seat post. At first i thought is the saddle problem, so i try to install my old saddle, but it's still the same.

    Is the shaking normal? or is the clamp/bolts problems? Please help, thanks.

  4. #1304
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    Hi everyone, i just bought the Rockshox Reverb last few days. Everything was going quite well, except the saddle clamp. I am facing a problem where my saddle keep shaking (a little bit), although the the bolts were tighten. This is quite weird as i didnt face this kind of problem when i am using my old seat post. At first i thought is the saddle problem, so i try to install my old saddle, but it's still the same.

    Is the shaking normal? or is the clamp/bolts problems? Please help, thanks.

  5. #1305
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    Quote Originally Posted by helexia23 View Post
    Some photos of the new Reverb. Oh also I read some people having trouble mounting the actuator with XT levers/brakes. This setup is a left handed actuator mounted upside down on the right. Super clean and easy to reach - but doesn't get in the way either.





    Can you take 1 more photo that gives a better view of how far in the button ended up with respect to the large shifter paddle? Or if it is hard to capture in a photo, can you measure? I guess measure from the right (outer) edge of the large thumb shifter paddle to the right (outer) edge of the button. It just seems like it would be really far away....
    Thanks

  6. #1306
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    Had to check something from the box today and found this piece. I always wondered where this would go. Anyone knows what's it for?
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by opiants; 10-03-2012 at 03:49 AM.

  7. #1307
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    Quote Originally Posted by opiants View Post
    Had to check something from the box today and found this part. I always wondered where this would go. Anyone knows what's it for?
    guessing
    some kind of blank for an Avid brake/shifter clamp so you can clamp your reverb button using some kind of match maker thing to to the shifter? or not.......

  8. #1308
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    If you don't run Avid brakes you put that in the bar clamp as a spacer.

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  9. #1309
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    ha! A clamp spacer! I would have never known what it's for. Thanks for clearing that up.

  10. #1310
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    So anyone else broken a top cap (that houses the upper bushing and seals) on their reverb yet? I've ridden mine maybe 10 times before it cracked (vertical crack on the rear of the cap), and it's off to RS for warranty now. Still no word back what they're doing with it, so had to hunt up a rigid temporary post for the time being...
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  11. #1311
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    Quote Originally Posted by helexia23 View Post
    ...This setup is a left handed actuator mounted upside down on the right. Super clean and easy to reach - but doesn't get in the way either....
    Thanks for the tip, that works great. Tucks the actuator away from damage, allows a better position for my thumb and works just fine with existing shifter.

    Quote Originally Posted by opiants View Post
    ha! A clamp spacer! I would have never known what it's for. Thanks for clearing that up.
    Thanks for asking, I was clueless. And I figured out the what/where for the hose guide by the seat clamp too!

  12. #1312
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    Does anyone else experience some slight play in the reverb? both fore/aft and torsional? I've been beating up my reverb for about 3 months now, and it has developed a slight play that can only be felt while off the bike. It still feels rock solid while pedaling.

  13. #1313
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    Help: reverb inner stanchion twisting within the collar!

    Not sure if this is the best place to post this - please advise if not:

    Looking for advice on an issue that surfaced with my reverb yesterday. Apologies for getting the terminology wrong!

    The stanchion (?, inner tube to which the seat is attached that slides up and down) now twists within the collar with moderate force. Was riding a wheelie, for example, and the seat twisted. The binder bolt is tight, and I can twist the seat with my hands and watch that the collar at the top of the outer housing stays put without moving. This is 10-20 degree movements I'm talking about, and then I have to either twist it back, or loosen the seatpost binder bolt and move it back.

    I thought there was a keylock mechanism to prevent this, so it's puzzling me that this could even happen at all - any thoughts as to what I need to do to fix this? Am I in danger of catastrophic failure on my long ride tomorrow?

    Thanks!

  14. #1314
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    If your inner post is truly able to turn, you've got something catastrophic going on because there are three pretty solid keys that keep the tube from twisting. However, I would think any type of failure with the keys, especially to the point of being able to twist the tube, would have impacted its ability to extend and retract, which sounds not to be the case.

    Are you sure the twisting isn't occurring at the connection between the saddle rail cradle (the part connected to the top of the tube that the saddle rails sit in) and the inner tube. In other words, if you can twist your seat but not actually feel the tube turning, this is what's likely happening. This failure was recently documented here.

  15. #1315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    If your inner post is truly able to turn, you've got something catastrophic going on because there are three pretty solid keys that keep the tube from twisting. However, I would think any type of failure with the keys, especially to the point of being able to twist the tube, would have impacted its ability to extend and retract, which sounds not to be the case.

    Are you sure the twisting isn't occurring at the connection between the saddle rail cradle (the part connected to the top of the tube that the saddle rails sit in) and the inner tube. In other words, if you can twist your seat but not actually feel the tube turning, this is what's likely happening. This failure was recently documented here.
    ^^ this, exactly. That was me that recently posted (see posts #1285 and 1290) about the top part that houses the saddle rail twisting on top of the telescoping tube. It basically just screws on the top. I unscrewed it almost a full revolution to create a large gap, added medium loctite into the gap, then tightened it up hard. I haven't had an issue since then.

  16. #1316
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    Awesome, many thanks to both of you!
    I'll have a closer look when I get home, but it'd be great if that fixes the issue!!!


    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    ^^ this, exactly. That was me that recently posted (see posts #1285 and 1290) about the top part that houses the saddle rail twisting on top of the telescoping tube. It basically just screws on the top. I unscrewed it almost a full revolution to create a large gap, added medium loctite into the gap, then tightened it up hard. I haven't had an issue since then.
    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    If your inner post is truly able to turn, you've got something catastrophic going on because there are three pretty solid keys that keep the tube from twisting. However, I would think any type of failure with the keys, especially to the point of being able to twist the tube, would have impacted its ability to extend and retract, which sounds not to be the case.

    Are you sure the twisting isn't occurring at the connection between the saddle rail cradle (the part connected to the top of the tube that the saddle rails sit in) and the inner tube. In other words, if you can twist your seat but not actually feel the tube turning, this is what's likely happening. This failure was recently documented here.

  17. #1317
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    Are you sure the stanchion is moving, or the piece where the seat is attached to the stanchion.
    I got the same problem after a crash, the seat clamp moved since it is screwed to the stanchion I unscrew it to the point I felt to much resistance, and I can saw about 4mm of the thread then I put some epoxi glue and screw it again, let dry and that is all.
    I am thinking in put a security bolt also but for now is just the glue I hope this help
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  18. #1318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midle Age Warrior View Post
    Are you sure the stanchion is moving, or the piece where the seat is attached to the stanchion.
    I got the same problem after a crash, the seat clamp moved since it is screwed to the stanchion I unscrew it to the point I felt to much resistance, and I can saw about 4mm of the thread then I put some epoxi glue and screw it again, let dry and that is all.
    I am thinking in put a security bolt also but for now is just the glue I hope this help
    That's similar to what I did (see above), though I used loc-tite instead of epoxy glue. If the seat clamp mechanism ever fails, I wanted to still be able to break the bond and unscrew it in order to replace that piece. If you use epoxy glue, you may never be able to undo it. Maybe that doesn't matter, but wanted to put it out there as food for thought.

  19. #1319
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    So my Reverb is still dropping in travel when fully extended (or any position really when not slammed), the drop is minimal, less than 3/4 of an inch, but still quite annoying to constantly lift up and press the button to get the right fully extended pedaling position. This doesn't happen always but definitely often. There are times when I'll slam it, raise it and it stays put. Other times I'll slam it, raise it, stays put but pedal some distance, raise my butt and if button is pressed, it will extend the the distance it has dropped.

    Proper pressure isn't the problem it seems, I know for a fact I have 250 psi in there. There's only a few more rides for me this season before breaking down the bike for winter and maintenance and I guess I'll be sending it to SRAM for a look over (along with my creaking Fox 34 Float SMH).

  20. #1320
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    It's still a mystery to me what exactly keeps the post locked in any given position. I suppose it's proprietary info that Sram wants to keep that way. The issue of my post dropping a few inches from my weight was completely attributed to my loss of seal and air pressure, as ever since re-sealing it it's holding air and working flawlessly again. Still, there's more involved than just the air psi keeping the post locked. Keep us posted on what the fix is, if Sram even tells you.

  21. #1321
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    How often do you folks bleed your posts?

    A month after getting my Reverb, it would sink when I sat on it so I bled it. It was working great for the past 6 months, and not it's starting to sink again.

    Could this be an internal seal issue or bleeding every once in awhile is normal for it?

  22. #1322
    Chris Bling
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    a little rough

    Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?
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  23. #1323
    Oh, So Interesting!
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?
    too much seat post clamp tension.
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  24. #1324
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?
    The first thing I'd check is to make sure it's not just clamped too tightly in the seatpost tube. The Reverb has proven a bit sensitive to this.

  25. #1325
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?
    My money is on this: your seat post clamp is too tight. That squeezes the stationary part of the seat tube and the telescoping part has resistance when it goes through the restricted area. Loosen your clamp a bit and see if works better. You may need friction paste to keep the seat post from moving once the clamp is looser.

    Sent from my Galaxy S3

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