Page 52 of 79 FirstFirst ... 2 42 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 62 ... LastLast
Results 1,276 to 1,300 of 1967
  1. #1276
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    4

    help with reverb

    hello!

    sorry if this has been covered. i just got a new reverb and it works perfectly EXCEPT- the actuator is FAR too difficult to press. It's 3 times harder than a front deralleur upshift and it's KILLING my thumb. I really like the concept of it! but my thumb is dying.....help!

  2. #1277
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    14
    Should have my Reverb on Wednesday or Thursday. Will get it weighed and get the results up on here. Its going to be the 380mm 30.9mm version.

  3. #1278
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Calhoun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    1,766
    Quote Originally Posted by katisse View Post
    hello!

    sorry if this has been covered. i just got a new reverb and it works perfectly EXCEPT- the actuator is FAR too difficult to press. It's 3 times harder than a front deralleur upshift and it's KILLING my thumb. I really like the concept of it! but my thumb is dying.....help!
    Follow the bleed instructions, should help things out.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Mircoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  4. #1279
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    3
    Hello,

    In a few days i'm going to buy a seatpost but i don't know if it will be the reverb 2012 with 420/125 travel or ks supernatural w/ remote 435/150 travel. Both of them with same price.

    I'm a tall man and i'll have it at the top.

    Anybody knows what to do?

  5. #1280
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    53
    Go with the Reverb. It is the class leader in dropper posts. I'm 6'4" and use most of the travel when hitting the descent, I do find the full 5" is a bit much most of the time.

    But the seatpost has transformed my riding.

  6. #1281
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    48
    My first reverb lasted a total of two months of riding three days a week, maybe two hours at a time. The seal blew. I got a replacement, and there was a different attachment at the top of the seat post where the line connects to the post. This one has lasted me about year now under the same riding conditions. Knock on wood -- no problems. I bled it for the first time the other day. Just an update.

  7. #1282
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by Calhoun View Post
    Follow the bleed instructions, should help things out.
    Thanks, I will! I only weigh about 160. Should I lower the air pressure as well?

  8. #1283
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by raceface_lefty View Post
    Go with the Reverb. It is the class leader in dropper posts. I'm 6'4" and use most of the travel when hitting the descent, I do find the full 5" is a bit much most of the time.

    But the seatpost has transformed my riding.
    Thank You, Im 6,2" too and I like to set the seatpost down bottom (About 15cms from body of the bike)

    Id like to set the remote on the left side but not on the top, it would be face down...

    Ive Shimano slx cassette and Avid Elixir 7 brakes

    Do You think I could?

    Thanks!

  9. #1284
    mtbr member
    Reputation: SpartanDano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by katisse View Post
    the actuator is FAR too difficult to press. It's 3 times harder than a front deralleur upshift and it's KILLING my thumb. I really like the concept of it! but my thumb is dying.....help!
    I've been having the exact same issue, I've had to start using my palm to press the actuator. Let me know if the bleed helps the problem.

  10. #1285
    mtbr member
    Reputation: albertdc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    443
    I have been loving this post since early summer but have now developed a problem I don't remember reading about since following this thread. The part of the post that houses the seat clamp and the hose nipple now rotates with respect the actual post which goes up and down.



    In the picture, the junction I'm talking about is at the top of the post (the shiny black part) where it then is bonded to the matte black seat clamp mechanism. The seat/seat clamp can now be rotated with only a moderate rotational force applied with respect to the seat post itself.

    Is this fixable or send it for warranty?

    Thanks

    Sent from my Galaxy S3

    Edited:a bunch of phone autocorrect typos fixed...
    Last edited by albertdc; 09-26-2012 at 04:24 PM.

  11. #1286
    some know me as mongo
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    631
    yeap! that would be a warrenty issue. i cant remember but I think it is splined or screwed on and they use a bonding material to secure it on. I bet that material just broke down.

  12. #1287
    mtbr member
    Reputation: albertdc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    443
    Quote Originally Posted by sir_crackien View Post
    yeap! that would be a warrenty issue. i cant remember but I think it is splined or screwed on and they use a bonding material to secure it on. I bet that material just broke down.
    Dooh. I assumed so, but was hoping there was a fix. It's ridable for now, so I think I'll wait until the snow covers the trails before sending it in. I wonder if I can get some JB weld in there since their bond was obviously pretty weak. JB might be stronger, but I don't want to to void the warranty... :banghead:

    Sent from my Galaxy S3

  13. #1288
    some know me as mongo
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    631
    one other thing I will say is that if it is loose I would get it fixed ASAP. this is becasue the loose junction could wallow out the top of the post or head and make it impossiable to repair. just something to think about

  14. #1289
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JohnJameson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJameson View Post
    I'm in a similar situation, although there is some operator error on my part. I just got a Reverb off of ebay and it did not come with a manual. Looked over the directions online pretty quick and went down to the garage for the install. After setting it up, it would not budge, as stated above. Being an idiot (and used to my Kronolog on another bike), I thought that some air must need to come out. Let a little out and now it is worthless. Put some more air back in and did didn't change it at all. Won't really go up or down on its own. I then read the online instructions and saw that I should NEVER mess with the factory air pressure. Somehow missed this when I looked the first time. So, am I F'd? Does it need to go back to Sram? Can this be remedied in the confines of my own garage? Help me MTBR, you are my only hope.
    So I have tried putting more air back in, the 250 psi that is recomended, but when I try to unscrew my pump, I lose all the air. Also, the travel is stuck down to about 1" of its travel. If I try to pull it out to fully extended, it just sucks back down. So do I just need a new pump that can handle 250 psi? Even if I do get a better pump, how do I get it back to full extension? I can't find any email contact for SRAM on their website, and waited on hold for way to long when I called the only contact number listed. Thanks all.

  15. #1290
    mtbr member
    Reputation: albertdc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    443
    Quote Originally Posted by sir_crackien View Post
    yeap! that would be a warrenty issue. i cant remember but I think it is splined or screwed on and they use a bonding material to secure it on. I bet that material just broke down.
    You got me thinking. It did indeed feel like it was screwed on and broken free rather than splined and stripped. So, I rotated it looser almost a full turn (pushed the post down to get slack in the line), and sure enough I got a gap between the two parts. I put some medium loc-tite in there and tightened it up. Feels rock solid. It remains to be seen whether it will rotate on my next ride, but I honestly don't think it will. If it does, I can put stronger loc-tite next time.

    I bet that the original bond broke free during a low-speed crash at gooseberry a few weeks ago. The seat twisted and I assumed it was the seat post twisting inside the seat tube, so I loosened the seat clamp and straightened it out. In reality it was probably the clamp twisting on the top of the seat post!

    Sent from my Galaxy S3

  16. #1291
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by jane_135 View Post
    Thank You, Im 6,2" too and I like to set the seatpost down bottom (About 15cms from body of the bike)

    Id like to set the remote on the left side but not on the top, it would be face down...

    Ive Shimano slx cassette and Avid Elixir 7 brakes

    Do You think I could?

    Thanks!
    I started out with the remote on the left side and underneath the handle bar. It definitely worked but I didn't like having a third 'job' for my front brake hand to do. I had the same brake as you at the time.

  17. #1292
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    41
    Take the pump to your local SRAM dealer (most any bike shop). Have them confirm that when they put 250psi in it doesn't make any difference, then have them send it back to SRAM for warranty. It sounds to me like the valving inside is messed up.

    you should also track down the seller on eBay and mod them down as hard as you can - they sold you crap.

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJameson View Post
    So I have tried putting more air back in, the 250 psi that is recomended, but when I try to unscrew my pump, I lose all the air. Also, the travel is stuck down to about 1" of its travel. If I try to pull it out to fully extended, it just sucks back down. So do I just need a new pump that can handle 250 psi? Even if I do get a better pump, how do I get it back to full extension? I can't find any email contact for SRAM on their website, and waited on hold for way to long when I called the only contact number listed. Thanks all.

  18. #1293
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Betarad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    517

    Another one bites the dust

    Absolutely loved my '12 reverb straight out of the box......for first 6 months. Then the dreaded day came. Post suddenly wouldn't spring back to full height...about 1.5" short, with another 1.5 of spongy feel when I sat on it.

    Got back home, found air psi to be low, pumped back up to 250. Operated better but not 100% - still had about .5" of sponge. Next morning, back to worse, air psi down again. Went to SRAM.com for advice and a service manual. No manual, but a video. Call the Sram number to see if any technical enlightenment is in the cards. Got ahold of a tech pretty easily. But he downplays it telling me I probably just need to disassemble per video instructions, clean up the insides, and re-assemble. "Some crap probably just got in there". Probably don't even need spare parts. OK, sounds easy enough. My issue is pretty common to stuff I'm reading here, so I wanna know how to service it myself rather than send it in on warranty. Probably shouldn't have in hindsight.

    On disassembly I find my bottom out o-ring comes out in a completely different order of that mentioned in the video (mine was above the spacer). Hmm, OK.

    Next I see the inner bushing clearly failed. Saw at least one similar photo on this forum. Damn, time for a parts order. Down to my LBS.

    After a few days of everyone trying to guess wether the simple seal kit would truly be "O-rings only" as stated, or if it actually included the inner bushing as it appears to show on the parts diagram, I just order both the minor seal kit as well as the full service kit. Turns out the minor seal kit is NOT "o-rings only" and does indeed come with the bushing.

    OK, got my parts. Haven't been riding for about 3 weeks now, gettin kinda grumpy. Continue with video. I'm sure the female narration on the video is intended to calm my irritable demeanor, but she seems to lack reassurance. "Carefully slide outer seal head off over inner seal head". Easy enough. Wait, there's an o-ring that has popped out in one area that's in the way. An o-ring that doesn't even appear in the video. And it has gotten pushed out, under pressure I assume, into one of the three pin grooves machined inside the outer body, damaging it further. Damn. No sight or mention of the o-ring, and the video ends it's disassembly right there. Huh? Am I gonna get a face full of oil when I remove the inner seal head? I've gotta remove it to replace the o-ring. But does the o-ring even belong there?

    Back on the phone to Sram tech. Spoke with Kyle. Nice enough kid, but absolutely no help - other than to tell me to google "reverb service videos" to find a more in-depth reverb service video, from Sram, on Youtube. How hard would it be to include this gem of info in the service section of your website, Sram?

    Guess I'll be continuing my rebuild tonight, just me and Siri's little sister on Youtube.

    Sram's technical help lacks the human "we care" touch. Communications with them reek of "large corporation".

    I'm not having fun with my Reverb anymore.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3200.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3203.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3210.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3213.jpg  


  19. #1294
    mtbr member
    Reputation: albertdc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    443
    @Betard - great post!...though sorry that you had to write it.
    Keep us posted - I would love to hear how it goes and keep seeing pics. I dread the day I will have to do it also, but I know where I'm going first when I do - your post.

    Good luck.

  20. #1295
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Betarad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    517
    Got some follow-up info. Turns out that o-ring (see pic) should indeed NOT be visible like it is, just like the video depicts. Upon further inspection, the cause of my failure is pretty clear. The inner seal head (silver aluminum part right of subject o-ring) had apparently slowly unthreaded itself over time, despite thread locking goop. Obviously it was never "tightened to a high torque value" as the video warns those of us who are about to remove it. The threadlocking goop was effective at masking from me the fact it had unthreaded at first glance, because it certainly felt tight. And the o-ring looks amazingly natural in it's current location, aside from the little bit that bulged into the pin slot (which I originally thought was the extent of the failure).

    I suppose the slowly-turning seal head also contributed somehow to the early demise of the rubber coating on the inner bushing.

    At least I now know exactly what failed. While on the phone with Kyle earlier, I offered to send him my photos with the hopes they could have product-evaluation value to Sram. He was clearly uninterested. And I don't even see an email address on their website that I could use. Pretty weak.

    Onward with the re-build.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb-o-ring.jpg  


  21. #1296
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    372

    Shortened Hose - Won't Go Down on Fast Setting

    2012 Reverb shortening the hose.

    I turned the barrel adjuster counter clockwise like Sram's video said. Unscrewed the barb. Cut the hose. Screwed back in barb. Now when I turn in barrel adjuster all the way + to its fastest setting it will not go down at all. All the way in the - slow setting it works perfect.

    Any insight would be appreciated.

  22. #1297
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    372
    Quote Originally Posted by helexia23 View Post
    2012 Reverb shortening the hose.

    I turned the barrel adjuster counter clockwise like Sram's video said. Unscrewed the barb. Cut the hose. Screwed back in barb. Now when I turn in barrel adjuster all the way + to its fastest setting it will not go down at all. All the way in the - slow setting it works perfect.

    Any insight would be appreciated.
    Disregard, I bled the system and now it's fine.

  23. #1298
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Betarad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    517
    I'm back in the game! Reassembled my seatpost with the new seals last night, pumped it up to 250, it worked perfectly. Surprisingly, I didn't even have to bleed it.

    Got up this morning, and it's holding air, working flawlessly. I think a proper ride is in order.

  24. #1299
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    372
    Some photos of the new Reverb. Oh also I read some people having trouble mounting the actuator with XT levers/brakes. This setup is a left handed actuator mounted upside down on the right. Super clean and easy to reach - but doesn't get in the way either.






  25. #1300
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neil.beltchenko's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    170
    Guys, I broke my reverb button off from a crash! First off does it matter if i get a left or right assembly button! second, has anyone delt with this before? I assume ill need to bleed after i install the new button? any info would be great!

Page 52 of 79 FirstFirst ... 2 42 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 62 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •