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  1. #76
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    Sorry to disturb your precious informative thread under the general title of RS Reverb. I just wanted to correct that it is a 30.9 instead of a 31.6 like I stated previously since I have already received a couple of PM's about interest if it was a 31.6 due to my error.

    That's all and chill out, man. I plan to pay and classify with mtbr once I am not at work, not riding and can clean the post and take and upload pics. Sorry if I wasted anybody's time with this.
    Ride On!

  2. #77
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    Why not just edit your original post? I just thought it odd you had to post it twice. There was a second post there with the same information as the first (it's gone now apparently). I didn't care about the first one.

    No need to get all bent man. I'm chill, are you? Anyway, good luck selling yours. Sorry it didn't work out. I'm surprised you couldn't make it work on the Rune. Some people have come up with some pretty creative cable routing schemes.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  3. #78
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    No prob, my bad, didn't realize I could post an add without pics. Posted again cause I was chapped I stated it was a 31.6, not a 30.9 by my error and wanted to give others a "head's up" if interested, since a lot of places are out or don't carry most sizes.

    http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showprod...t=57018&cat=18
    Ride On!

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler

    Reverb Bleed Instructions....
    Great information, I'd already bled mine once, but this technique really made a difference.

    A previous post mentioned putting the syringe at the post bleed screw; this time I bled from the actuator. Much easier at this location to put a suction on the syringe, hold it with one hand and then push the actuator with the other. It took about 3-4 times before the bubbles stopping coming out. I immediately knew something had changed when my seat post would now actuate in the full CCW (slow) position. In the full fast (CW) position the rise rate has probably doubled in speed. Apart from the speed, I now have better modulation control over the rise rate based on how far I push in the button. Thanx for the post.

  5. #80
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    Received 2 Reverbs yesterday, one for me and one for my wife. Have installed one, needed to bleed the remote line but after that it's working great. I'm very pleased with the initial quality and ease of adjustment. As long as it holds up I think this will be money well spent.

  6. #81
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    outside outfitters has them for $236 shipped. (supposedly) in stock.

    https://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-...-seatpost.aspx

    just ordered mine, will see how it compares to my kind shock.
    hopefully I get the right hand remote so I can mount it on the left side under the bar where my shifters used to be

  7. #82
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    Totally beautiful post. If anyone owns one of these and goes to a different brand they need a slapping!

  8. #83
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    Tuff Gong... First time I had a chance to view your pictures and video because my work blocks image sites and my main home computer was down with a failed HDD (installed a new Patriot 120GB SSD with SandForce for the boot drive and OMFG is it fast).

    Anyway, I like how you got your cable to route and move toward the front. Very clever. You don't have any cable loop to worry about. I also think the little piece of tape as an indicator is a nice touch. Good work.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler
    Just received this from SRAM tech support. This will be on their website within a week or so:

    Reverb Bleed Instructions:

    ...
    Thanks for the tip! Should have came in the instructions with the post.

    I got mine (30.9, 380mm) Wednesday afternoon from the LBS (they ordered for me, 15% off list, which I think is fair), riding that evening! Worked out of the box, but only on the fast setting.

    Just bled now, first time bleeding anything besides auto brakes, went smoothly thanks to these instructions. Full adjustment range from fast to slow after bleeding.

    My first adjustable post, and was using it all the time Wednesday evening on some new unfamiliar single track, at night with lights. Will go for a ride on my home trail tomorrow, looking forward to lowering on the tech sections for better balance and speed.

    One issue for me - got it in my frame all the way to the nut, and is a bit too high at full extension. I just adjust to maybe 1/2 inch lower, and all is good. Very EZ to do with the remote. From other posts, looks like no way around this.

    I rate 5 stars at this point, we'll see how it holds up after a few more rides!


    dave
    08 575

  10. #85
    I'm more of a dog person
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    got mine to fit

    using a duo of formula oro brakes and sram xo shifters i was able to get my rh remote to fit under the bars on the left side. i'm not sure how much the brakes really matter for clearance but the xo shifters have an adjustable position lever that allows you to move it slightly to not interfere with the remote. i like having my shifters angled up as well which seem to give my thumbs better leverage, and creates an open area between the bars and shifter in which to fit the remote. This setup tucks everything away nicely while providing what i feel to be a better ergonomic location.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-sam_2701.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-sam_2702.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-sam_2704.jpg  


  11. #86
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    hate to burst everyones bubble but I have developed some play in my post. The actual post (not the seat or clamp ) have some movement after about 3 weeks of use. even my joplins never did that. I still think this is a superior post to the others, but there is def. something wrong with it. My wife's seems to be working ok, probably my clumsy freeride light riding style. I did land shitily on a gap the other day and came down on the seat pretty hard.

  12. #87
    I'm more of a dog person
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    i'm don't know if i'd consider that bursting everyone's bubble, it just sounds like you may have managed to break yours.

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercusty
    hate to burst everyones bubble but I have developed some play in my post. The actual post (not the seat or clamp ) have some movement after about 3 weeks of use. even my joplins never did that. I still think this is a superior post to the others, but there is def. something wrong with it. My wife's seems to be working ok, probably my clumsy freeride light riding style. I did land shitily on a gap the other day and came down on the seat pretty hard.
    may i ask, how heavy do you weigh?

  14. #89
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    180 lbs I ride an lt carbon it still works fine there is just a small amour of play in the post now

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by unclekittykiller
    i'm don't know if i'd consider that bursting everyone's bubble, it just sounds like you may have managed to break yours.

    yeah sounds like you just tweaked something.

  16. #91
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    Is there a model with an offset. Im using a laid/set back Tompson seatpost and if i will replace it with a "straight" , not set back one, it will feel ackward (im use to a laid back seatpost)

  17. #92
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    I've snapped something inside the remote lever, after 2 mins of use. Yes, I read the instructions, and angled the lever down so that it wouldn't stick out above the level of the bars. Turned the bike upside down, and there was an audible cracking sound. Now the remote lever has no resistance, and no longer works, pulling it in or out, it sounds like fluid/air are mixing. Anyone have any idea what has snapped, the piston head perhaps, and if spares are available.

    The lever itself seems really flimsy, compared to say a shifter or brake lever. I cant see how it would ever survive a crash.

  18. #93
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    I took apart the lever, and as I suspected the piston head has broken off from the shaft which connects it to the button. The head is stuck inside the bore, can't see any way to get it out. Perhaps connecting it to a brake lever and some hose to put back pressure in would push the piston out...

  19. #94
    How do I do that?
    Reputation: Tuff Gong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    I took apart the lever, and as I suspected the piston head has broken off from the shaft which connects it to the button. The head is stuck inside the bore, can't see any way to get it out. Perhaps connecting it to a brake lever and some hose to put back pressure in would push the piston out...
    Or tap into the bleed port with the syringe and give it a push? Make sure you don't apply such pressure while your in your dining room
    Last edited by Tuff Gong; 11-08-2010 at 06:38 PM.

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    Tuff Gong... First time I had a chance to view your pictures and video because my work blocks image sites and my main home computer was down with a failed HDD (installed a new Patriot 120GB SSD with SandForce for the boot drive and OMFG is it fast).

    Anyway, I like how you got your cable to route and move toward the front. Very clever. You don't have any cable loop to worry about. I also think the little piece of tape as an indicator is a nice touch. Good work.
    Thanks man I've been really enjoying this 'adjustable post' thing so far. Just like with suspensions, I am forever spoiled.

    It's only been a week but it's been good. I'm not sure if I'll keep the present remote position but I seem to regularly use the little 'indicator' tape on the tubing I would have never thought of 'wanting' the remote closer to my thumb but I seem to adjust my height quite often.

    Hmm, I might have a poke at trying UncleKitty's method but I have a feeling it won't work with X & Juicy Sevens.

  21. #96
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    are you folks running this shock using friction paste? If so, did it come with it?

  22. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler
    FYI - I just installed my Reverb. There was so much air in the line I ended up bleeding using a syringe at both ends. Now, the action is fast & smoove. I would recommend this to anyone, it's so easy to do and why not ensure that you are getting full performance.
    how do you bleed using two syringes? I see that there is only one bleeding port

  23. #98
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    it now doesnt decompress after i rebleed,
    There seem to be a never ending strand of bubbles coming out from the cable,.

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    Or tap into the bleed port with the syringe and give it a push? Make sure you don't apply such pressure while your in your dining room
    Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb-xloc-remote-lever-1.jpg  


  25. #100
    How do I do that?
    Reputation: Tuff Gong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydesg
    how do you bleed using two syringes? I see that there is only one bleeding port

    Hyde, the second port is on the side of the post at the top. I believe you hook up both syringes(filled with some oil) into there respective bleed ports, remote&seatpost, and take turns pushing one syringe into one another. I believe the idea is to push airless fluid from one syringe into the tubing as it pushes the oil and whatever air inside to the other syringe and you repeat the process back and forth till you see no more air bubbles(keep syringes upright). Make sure your speed adjustment is twisted out(slow) on the remote when you bleed it and def have a rag handy.

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