RockShox Reverb Thread

[Rugbyroy]

Universal cycles seems to have some in stock

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=4201

[Huck Pitueee]

Universal cycles seems to have some in stock

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=4201

Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.

[BaeckerX1]

Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.

If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260.

[in the trees]

If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260.

X2. Plus you'll get free standard shipping.

[BMJ]

I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?

I'm running mine this way. Not to protect it but to put the button in a position that I don't have to raise my thum above the bar in the rough. Works out great! I'm running 1x9 though and think it would be difficult to get away with this if you weren't.

[BMJ]

Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.

thanks,
peter

According to the instructions, they don't want you fussing with the air pressure. It's set very high from the factory at 250psi!

I tricked my activation valve inside the post by topping off my remote in 40deg temps. Because the fluid within the closed remote system contracts when cold, you can squeeze in a little more juice into the line and preload the main valve. This makes it quick in the cold and lightning fast and snappy when it's warmer out! If you were to leave it this way in the full heat of the summer, you'd probably have to either back out the return speed adjuster at the remote to allow for extreme expansion or bleed out some fluid for the summer season.

Mine is fast like on steroids with this set-up and the remote activates very quickly in it's stroke to get things moving without having to push the remote button all the way in.

[Lev]

Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

Thanks

[car_nut]

Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

Thanks

Set your current post to the highest point you'd like to run it.
Measure the exposed length to the seat rails.
Add 80mm.
If that total number is greater than 380, you might want the 420.

[BaeckerX1]

Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

Thanks

At 6'0 I run the 380. You'll be fine as long as your frame is pretty standard as far as standover and seat tube height. 380mm is right at 15 inches. That's pretty long. You'd have to have almost 12 inches of exposed seatpost to be at the minimum insertion for the post, though I wouldn't want to be close to the minimum insertion.

[Rick Draper]

Anyone know any stores in the USA that have stock of 380mm 30.9mm reverbs and that will also ship to the UK?

[RSMarco]

Set your current post to the highest point you'd like to run it.
Measure the exposed length to the seat rails.
Add 80mm.
If that total number is greater than 380, you might want the 420.

Is this the official way to establish the correct length post to buy?

Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.

Thanks

Mark

[Rick Draper]

Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.

Nope and its going to be December or January before we get them FFS.

[car_nut]

Is this the official way to establish the correct length post to buy?

Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.

Thanks

Mark

Definitely not I don't recommend anyone taking my advice as official

The minimum insertion is 80 mm. If you have <280mm of post sticking out at the highest point you want to use it, then 380 should do it. More than 280 and you'll have to start thinking about whether or not you like running a post at minimum insertion.

[pumpkins]

Some frames may even specify a minimum post insertion that may be longer than the Reverb 80mm

[car_nut]

Some frames may even specify a minimum post insertion that may be longer than the Reverb 80mm

Good point. See, I knew I was usually wrong

[RSMarco]

My frame is a Large Santacruz Carbon Nomad and I think the min insert length is 100mm?

Why are the UK boy's having to wait. Are they optimising the seals to cope with the wet weather..lol

Thanks guy's.

[Strong like Bull]

Does anyone know if the 420mm length post is trimmable? Is it basically the same as the 380mm with a longer tube going into the frame that could be trimmed if required?

[zirkel 1]

unfortunately the 420mm post cannot be trimmed, the innards come right to the bottom. BTW, when deciding what length to get, one should probably see how much insertion the frame manufacturer recommends, my uzzi is recommended 5" minimum.

[MarkHL]

According to the instructions, they don't want you fussing with the air pressure. It's set very high from the factory at 250psi!

I got away with attaching a shock pump to the nozzle and re-establishing 250PSI without effecting the performance. I think RS should attach a red tag to the post with a warning not to adjust the air pressure. With the 250 psi etched on the nozzle cap it's just screaming "check me". On a second (slower) read of the manual, I saw this warning:

Important: DO NOT attempt to adjust air pressure using the air valve located on the bottom of the seatpost. Any change in the factory pressure will render the seatpost inoperable, requiring full service.

I've put about 25 hours of riding on mine so far and it's still performing like day 1.

[BaeckerX1]

Why are the UK boy's having to wait. Are they optimising the seals to cope with the wet weather..lol

Probably optimiZing the manual so you Brits don't cry over the bastardiZation of the Queen's English.

We know how sensitive you can get.

[RSMarco]

Probably optimiZing the manual so you Brits don't cry over the bastardiZation of the Queen's English.

We know how sensitive you can get.

Haha,
Very funny, there is always one..! Was just testing you guy's

[Rick Draper]

I think we in the UK are having to wait so Sram can see how many americans ignore the English manual and connect a shock pump to the valve at the bottom of the post to "check" the seatpost pressure lmfao.

[RSMarco]

just like a big red button with a BIG sign saying 'Do Not Press'

lol

[BMJ]

Problem is, IFP's can be fickle. If you allow the pressure to go too low, the IFP can migrate and cause air to mix with the fluid. On a suspension fork or shock, it can hamper performance and make annoying swishing sounds as they suck the air through the damper, but on a height adjust seatpost, it affects the ability of the post to hold at set heights without spongyness. The small amount of air that feeds into the fluid can be compressed and now you have a height adjust "suspension post". Now you basically have a Joplin post but you can't cycle the air out manually, you need a full rebuild with the IFP being reset at the proper height without any air trapped above it. I've set IFP's before, it can be a pain in the A**!

Another "Big Red Button" item out there is user adjustable B/O rear shocks. Got one of these and you go below or above the printed range, you may be looking at a rebuild as well.

One nice thing about having the ability to access the air valve on the Reverb is the fact that it could be user servicable if you competent to do so. The KS i900 I just sent in for rebuild... couldn't find an air valve anywhere or see a way to take it apart in my home shop, so off in the mail it went.

[Johnnydrz]

BMJ, funny thing you mention "The small amount of air that feeds into the fluid can be compressed and now you have a height adjust "suspension post"... because I am presently using a suspension post on my present hardtail bike (SS) because of a bad back. I really want to get an adjustable post for all the benefits they have, but I'll loose that squish my back is used to now... I wonder if I could have the best of both worlds...

Johnnydrz