Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 38
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,751

    QR vs TA - is it dangerous?

    Just curious to see what others think about/have experienced with QR vs TA. I have a steel HT built up with a 2008 RS Revelation at 130mm. I have QR now and have considered swapping over to TA.
    Other than eliminating some fork flex, does TA offer a substantial level of safety to the rider? Basically, if taking drops/hits NO larger than 3 or 4 feet, is TA needed or is QR suffucient?

    Thanks all

  2. #2
    Underskilled
    Reputation: CaveGiant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    4,111
    Nothing is needed, all is luxury.

    Do you need a TA to do large drops, no, do you want one, definitly.

    You do not realise how much flext you got on landing until it goes

  3. #3
    usually cranky
    Reputation: b-kul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    9,927
    qr is not dangerous unless you are an idiot and dont install it right or something. ta is nice to have but its not gonna be safer.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by CaveGiant
    Nothing is needed, all is luxury.

    Do you need a TA to do large drops, no, do you want one, definitly.

    You do not realise how much flext you got on landing until it goes

    Agreed! Not needed, but definitely wanted. Even the 15QR is substantially stiffer and more reliable than 9mm qr.

  5. #5
    banned
    Reputation: cruso414's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    2,102
    I rode a 20mm TA for the first time this weekend and all I can say is WOW! huge improvement from the 9mm dt swiss axle I was using. comparing it to a standard QR is not even in the same universe.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,751
    OK so it looks like it is just VERY desireable but not necessary. I'm just getting into more aggressive riding and found a good deal on a QR Revelation, had a wheelset with std QR so that is what I am using. I don't plan on doing anything too crazy, I have young kids. Guess when it is time for a new wheelset or fork, I'll take the plunge all at once.

  7. #7
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,694
    I'm a big guy, so this may not apply much to you regular sized folks.

    Since switching to TA forks and bolt on rear hubs I find my bike tracks a straight line much better through the rough stuff. Especially off camber landings after a drop or jump, or entering a rock garden into a turn.
    For me the difference is night and day. I don't mind running a QR on the rear for the most part, but I can tell a difference with my bolt on wheels in lateral stiffness.

    I havent had the pleasure of riding a bike with a 12mm bolt on rear wheel yet, but can imagine it would be even stiffer.....but a frame designed for a 12mm bolt on rear is going to be a burlier frame anyways.

    I'm running hope pro 2 hubs 20mm TA front on a 36 Talas, and a 10mm bolt on rear on my BMC superstroke, which is a super burley frame. When I was running a QR on the rear I did feel some slight flexing occasionally which I do not notice since putting the hope on there.
    Hubs laced to Flows with DT comps.

    If you are a bigger guy, or riding aggressively, you will come to appreciate the TA and Bolt On setup, and you will notice a difference.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hankthespacecowboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    502
    If you "want" your bike to go where you point it, then you "need" a TA. Unless you're on a road bike.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: retro83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    307
    qr is not dangerous unless you are an idiot and dont install it right or something. ta is nice to have but its not gonna be safer.
    That's wrong, sorry. I always check my QRs are tight before I ride (store bike with wheels off) and yet I've had a QR undo under heavy braking. Pure luck that I didn't fall and smash my face in. I only use TA now.

    Look up 'Russel Pinder' on STW for another example. Fox settled his case after he was left paralysed when his wheel was ejected from the dropouts.

    QR has no place on the front wheel of a mountain bike running discs IMHO. Wasn't a problem with rim brakes but with discs it is. Something to do with the angle of the force generated.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    383
    Regardless of the safety issue, I find the Maxle to be far easier to use and just a better system all-round.

    As retro mentions above, I have heard of issues using QRs with disc brakes, particularly as they are getting more and more powerful, but no personal experiences to speak of.

    Having used the Maxle system, I would never go back to a QR system, for these reasons.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    703
    The 15QR system works incredibly well too. More user friendly than 9mm, and definitely improved performance. The Fox 20mm quick release on the 36 series works really well too. Easy to use and super stable.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,751
    I guess the masses have spoken. I just figured that some manufacturers build AM wheelsets w/ QR only so it must have been safe. I'll be swapping over but it's gonna take some time.
    New fork + new wheels = lots of money.

  13. #13
    Let the good times roll.
    Reputation: miniwisejosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,156
    Quote Originally Posted by retro83
    That's wrong, sorry. I always check my QRs are tight before I ride (store bike with wheels off) and yet I've had a QR undo under heavy braking. Pure luck that I didn't fall and smash my face in. I only use TA now.

    Look up 'Russel Pinder' on STW for another example. Fox settled his case after he was left paralysed when his wheel was ejected from the dropouts.

    QR has no place on the front wheel of a mountain bike running discs IMHO. Wasn't a problem with rim brakes but with discs it is. Something to do with the angle of the force generated.
    Well, TAs come loose also. One of my riding buddies bot to the bottom of a DH run and found his Marzocchi TA axle dangerously loose. I do agree that TAs are more secure, but they need to be checked periodically also.

    As for performance, no question that TA is stiffer and tracks better. It's also a lot more convenient to install. No more jiggling the wheel to get it aligned right!

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    128
    two things is for sure.

    1: after looking closely at a thru axle, your 9mm looks spindly and delicate.

    2: the 9mm was like that before you looked at the thru axle.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: retro83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    307
    Well, TAs come loose also. One of my riding buddies bot to the bottom of a DH run and found his Marzocchi TA axle dangerously loose. I do agree that TAs are more secure, but they need to be checked periodically also.
    indeed, but at least with a TA your wheel can't just fall straight out!

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,778
    Most of my riding buddies have QR fork-mount bike racks on their vehicles.
    One of my bikes has an '07 Fox36 (pinch bolt 20mm) and I have a QR rack adapter, but I find it annoying to remove/install the front wheel every time, likely a Maxle would make it pretty painless I guess.

    Have QR racks kept anyone from going to 20mm or 15mm forks?

  17. #17
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
    Reputation: scrublover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    8,396
    I'm a small guy who doesn't do huge drops/jumps, but the difference between QR (even a "stiff" QR setup) and a 20mm is huge. Very much worth doing. I'd not build up another QR mtb unless a super light XC racer or rigid bike.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  18. #18
    Let the good times roll.
    Reputation: miniwisejosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,156
    Quote Originally Posted by retro83
    indeed, but at least with a TA your wheel can't just fall straight out!
    That is true.


    I would never let a bike rack keep me from getting a TA fork. I'd sell it and buy a new one (racks seem to sell pretty well where I live). Thru Axles are enough of an advantage in performance, safety, and convenience that I'd be willing to do that. But I don't think it would even be necessary. All the racks I can think of accept adapters for TA20mm or TA15mm forks.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: el_chupo_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by fsrxc
    Most of my riding buddies have QR fork-mount bike racks on their vehicles.
    One of my bikes has an '07 Fox36 (pinch bolt 20mm) and I have a QR rack adapter, but I find it annoying to remove/install the front wheel every time, likely a Maxle would make it pretty painless I guess.

    Have QR racks kept anyone from going to 20mm or 15mm forks?

    Nope. I had a QR rack on my Jeep, bought one for my BMW, and now have a pickup so I dont use my BMW for bike duty any more. I too have an 07 Fox 36 with the pinch bolt, and I too dislike the hurricane Fork up. But it works, and it gets(got) my bike to the trail. A bit extra vs. a QR, but the benefit everywhere else on the trail was worth it.

    I, unlike Scrublover, am a big guy, but I too will never own another bike without a 20mm. Even if I build an XC bike it will probably have a Maxle lite, or a 15mm axle.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    117
    I got QR on my 08 Fuel EX8. I just got some Easton Havocs for it, partly because they give me option to get TA later when I do my next AM build. I don't see how you lose wheel with QR though, it won't come out of my Fox fork unless I unscrew it a little bit out of the recesses.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,660
    A 9 mm QR for a 3-5 inch fork is adequate. Once you bump up to the 5-7 inch forks, you're going to need 20 mm axle to make it more torsionally rigid.
    2013 Transition TransAM 29er
    2011 Yeti 303R DH
    2012 Banshee Spitfire V1.5

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    113
    Hi, would a hub like this be any better than a normal QR?

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=12145

    Or is that STILL a normal QR??

    Or would a 9mm bolt on be better than a 9mm QR or are they one and the same??

  23. #23
    usually cranky
    Reputation: b-kul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    9,927
    Quote Originally Posted by retro83
    That's wrong, sorry. I always check my QRs are tight before I ride (store bike with wheels off) and yet I've had a QR undo under heavy braking. Pure luck that I didn't fall and smash my face in. I only use TA now.

    Look up 'Russel Pinder' on STW for another example. Fox settled his case after he was left paralysed when his wheel was ejected from the dropouts.

    QR has no place on the front wheel of a mountain bike running discs IMHO. Wasn't a problem with rim brakes but with discs it is. Something to do with the angle of the force generated.
    okay, i just read about russel pinder and it sounds like a one in a million thing. the fork, brake, and skewer allignment would have to be just right. sounds like he just was majorly unlucky. besides he is suing fox, not the skewer mfg. but i cant argue about the braking forces. but in the same respect i dont think skewers are really meant to stand up to that, they're more of a xc/ trail thing and in that application i say they are pretty good. if you're braking hard enough to undo a skewer its a pretty good sign your riding terrain outside the realms qr skewers were designed for.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    235
    TA is indeed better.

    But, if you don't want to convert right away, consider Halo Hex Skewers. They tighten down and don't come loose as easy as a QR.

    http://www.halorims.com/Halo/product...php?id=HUHAQHD

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by Tessaiga
    Hi, would a hub like this be any better than a normal QR?

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=12145

    Or is that STILL a normal QR??

    Or would a 9mm bolt on be better than a 9mm QR or are they one and the same??
    In the 9mm format, that hub will not be significantly different than any other 9mm QR. The skewer is still supporting the load. A 9mm bolt through would be more reliable and might stiffen the front end up a touch, but it's still not as solid as a 15QR or 20TA.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •