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  1. #1
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    New mondraker foxy carbon 29

    It has been presented today and it seems a very interesting model, all in one.
    http://www.mondraker.com/es/es/foxy-carbon-29 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saR878eyK4k








    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saR878eyK4k




  2. #2
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    Whenever I see a bike designed with the shock in the line of fire from crap off the rear wheel I cry a little inside. That sad little fender isn't going to do much.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  3. #3
    Anytime. Anywhere.
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    Yes, that iis a poor place for a shock. I like the geometry, but would not get one for that reason, plus they are expensive. At least there is room for a LARGE water bottle. Lucky for me that forward geometry caught on and I can get other bikes with similar geometry.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  4. #4
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    Short offset fork too...
    Michael

    Ride on!

  5. #5
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    I have the Dune 2014, which is the enduro 160 of 27.5, and I have not had any problem with the position of the shock absorber, the mudguard makes its fusion very well

  6. #6
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    Mondraker is so under the radar.
    The bike are not so much expensive compared to yeti or ibis.
    to tick all the box. Look like an evolution of ripmo and orbea rallon.

  7. #7
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    damn spaniards

  8. #8
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    Hopefully my 'R' with Fox 36 and DPX2 (an awesome shock - I already have one on my Mojo3) arrives this week. Ill be able to provide some feedback on feel and suspension. There is no info about about the rear suspensions AS or rate so hope its close the the Dune which is suitably progressive. If they are running a coil its likely to be progressive but Orbea offer the Rallon with a coil and its rather linear.... We will see ! PS: The geometry of these bikes is outstanding. Reason im buying is a test road the previous model Foxy in 27.5 and whilst its rear end was a little harsh you could throw the thing down and off anything and feel like a hero. So incredibly stable and safe to ride. Good bike for people like me who's ambitions generally exceed capabilities. :-)
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  9. #9
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    New mondraker foxy carbon 29-img_4498.jpgNew mondraker foxy carbon 29-img_4497.jpg

    I have one in da house.
    Will look to provide some feedback in a week if anyone considering one.
    This is the 'Race' (R).

    Conditions here are dry, hard, dusty and cool-cold. OEM rubber are Minion DHR2 WT 2.4 F and Agressor 2.3R.

    Have not weighed it but it feels about 14Kg out of the box.

    This is a Medium.

    Initial fit doesn't feel as enormous as the reach measurements suggest but the bike is seriously long. It doesn't fit on regular Thule roof racks that clamp to the downtube.

    Very nicely pre-assembled. Only need to remove protection, install handlebar, install front brake rotor and wheel, install saddle and tune to provide initial settings.
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  10. #10
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    Very nice, a sweet looking bike indeed. Color me jealous.
    oops I wasn't clipped in

  11. #11
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    I have one in da house.
    Will look to provide some feedback in a week if anyone considering one.


    Initial impressions:

    This bike is super easy to ride.

    Im 175cm and reasonably average in arm and leg lengths. The medium fits perfectly.

    The short top tube allows you to drop the bars so you can get a more trail/xc position on the bike if you want to - more on that later.

    Initial pedalling with the suspension inactive - ie: smooth conditions- is super responsive. It looks to have very high anti squat in the early part of travel.

    At close to 14kg the bike to me is very heavy but with its steep seat angle seems rather easy to accelerate quickly for that sort of weight

    So first trails I rode were local moderate tech trails. Traction on climbing is astonishing. Compared to a 2.8 clad mojo3 it would easily equal that traction with the 2.3 agressor. This isnít a tyre thing, its the ultimate sensitivity of the rear end on bigger blocky steps and chunk when climbing.

    Initially the rear end feels firm and supported then easily reacts to larger movements maintaining grip. I ended up running around 1 more click rebound than recommend by Mondraker and set pressure for my weight exactly as per their chart - 155 psi.

    Is it nimble and playful and poppy? No. This thing is a trail soaker !
    Whilst super and suprisingly easy to move around in very tight stuff including climbs- no lofting of front wheel, no washing out - it still seems to place you perfectly in the bike so you donít really need to muscle it around going up.

    All good so far!

    Going down and jumping: so easy and safe. Hit the local gap without even bothering to punch it and its stable and level on take off and landing. You hardly need to move at all. Point and shoot!

    With its rather linear ( slightly progressive then regressive) rear end I thought it might bottom out easily. So far have not done that but can easily use all the travel. Perhaps the shock has been tuned with spacers to my weight- say 74kg.

    With the smammer offset it feels a bit that it just wants to motor on straight. But with the wide bars and short stem it responds quickly if you wanna change that!

    Negative:

    Calves clip the swing arm/pivots. You need to get used to that. Bit irritating.

    Muck in suspension? Dunno. Its dry here and no issues so far

    Bloody heavy. Wheels getting swapped and a few other things. Oem kit otherwise is great.
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  12. #12
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    Really dig this machine and would like to spend some time on one.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Professed View Post
    I have one in da house.
    Will look to provide some feedback in a week if anyone considering one.


    Initial impressions:

    This bike is super easy to ride.

    Im 175cm and reasonably average in arm and leg lengths. The medium fits perfectly.

    The short top tube allows you to drop the bars so you can get a more trail/xc position on the bike if you want to - more on that later.

    Initial pedalling with the suspension inactive - ie: smooth conditions- is super responsive. It looks to have very high anti squat in the early part of travel.

    At close to 14kg the bike to me is very heavy but with its steep seat angle seems rather easy to accelerate quickly for that sort of weight

    So first trails I rode were local moderate tech trails. Traction on climbing is astonishing. Compared to a 2.8 clad mojo3 it would easily equal that traction with the 2.3 agressor. This isnít a tyre thing, its the ultimate sensitivity of the rear end on bigger blocky steps and chunk when climbing.

    Initially the rear end feels firm and supported then easily reacts to larger movements maintaining grip. I ended up running around 1 more click rebound than recommend by Mondraker and set pressure for my weight exactly as per their chart - 155 psi.

    Is it nimble and playful and poppy? No. This thing is a trail soaker !
    Whilst super and suprisingly easy to move around in very tight stuff including climbs- no lofting of front wheel, no washing out - it still seems to place you perfectly in the bike so you donít really need to muscle it around going up.

    All good so far!

    Going down and jumping: so easy and safe. Hit the local gap without even bothering to punch it and its stable and level on take off and landing. You hardly need to move at all. Point and shoot!

    With its rather linear ( slightly progressive then regressive) rear end I thought it might bottom out easily. So far have not done that but can easily use all the travel. Perhaps the shock has been tuned with spacers to my weight- say 74kg.

    With the smammer offset it feels a bit that it just wants to motor on straight. But with the wide bars and short stem it responds quickly if you wanna change that!

    Negative:

    Calves clip the swing arm/pivots. You need to get used to that. Bit irritating.

    Muck in suspension? Dunno. Its dry here and no issues so far

    Bloody heavy. Wheels getting swapped and a few other things. Oem kit otherwise is great.
    So the Foxy 29er has a regressive LR?

    I like the idea of this bike with the coil option, but the rear suspension leverage ratio needs to be progressive to work well with a coil imo.

    Also tell me about the calves hitting?

    Please advise.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  14. #14
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    Hi Suns, The XR comes with a Coil as OEM but I can't see why a rider would want one. With the DPX2 Mondraker look to have tuned it so that it doesnt blow through the travel (given the rear linkage is progressive-regressive). I havnt had the chance to pull the shock down and check if any spacers have been used but probably won't bother.

    Its hard to share the feel of a suspension in writing but I have ridden a coil on my Bronson for a while and that sort of feel is well replicated by the DPX2 on this bike. The Bronson has a bit of a soft wollow in its rear, this bike has nothing of that. The suspension is very reactive to larger blocks, steps and tech whilst still sitting up well and remaining nippy to pedal. I can't see the need for a coil in my few ride experiences to date - will get it out on some bigger stuff next weekend and comment. (note if you do bike park then my experiences won't be of any value to you as our gaps and jumps are no larger than about 1.5m at the most)

    To answer your calf question: The top pivot of the upper link just clips my calves. Im no popeye but i noticed it initially. After two rides and around 30km of experience I started to adjust and didnt notice it as much.
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  15. #15
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    Thanks Professed!

    How did you determine the LR? Could you just tell as soon as you rode it? Did you read it somewhere?

    I'm drawn to the coil shock, and the color of that model, but I want a bike with no compromises.

    Thanks again.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  16. #16
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    Does the bike comfortably fit a 2.5 Aggressor in the rear?

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    Thanks Professed!

    How did you determine the LR? Could you just tell as soon as you rode it? Did you read it somewhere?

    I'm drawn to the coil shock, and the color of that model, but I want a bike with no compromises.

    Thanks again.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    Here: Linkage Design: Mondraker

    And yes, this would be a terrible leverage curve for a coil shock.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  18. #18
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    2.6 to 2.3 to 2.6... if you say such a small curve is bad for coil, I'd question if you think that coil for forks is even worse. The Foxy 29's curve will enhance midstroke support, keeping the bike riding high and firm where you are likely pedaling. The rubber bumper isn't modeled into the forces chart, but that thing is pretty hard to compress (doing well to prevent absolutely full travel usage), giving coils significant end-stroke ramp that's comparable to an air shock.

    I wouldn't judge this as "terrible" for a coil. I'd just predict that it allows them to design the frame with extra low static BB, and give a rider a sense of consistent predictability. 29ers cover ground efficiently, and a stiff spring feels less draggy when accelerating, compared to a typical hammock curve from a progressive setup (hammock curve = wallow/plushness). If you tune the progressive setups to use full travel, you tend to run a lot of sag and blow through travel, relying on the wall of the ramp-up; when you've sagged to 35-40%, 70% is your midstroke which is about when the wall starts. This bike's support starts fairly immediately and, with proper spring rate tuned to bottom out, I wouldn't be surprised if you had 25% sag. I question the point of deep sag--if you don't ride in a manner where you demand a lot of "negative" travel, what is that 35-40% of travel used for, if it's not wasted? I imagine you don't want suspension to extend deeply into holes, preferring to skip along the tops.

    I find linear to be fast and progressive to be plush and poppy. For such a long big-wheeled bike, fast sounds like the name of the game. The amount of travel by itself offers plushness, and a firm spring setup makes it accelerate more responsively. Switch to air if you need tuning to handle big hits. Might be better off looking for a short travel compact wheelbase bike with small wheels if you want playful, poppy, but relatively plush (e.g. old Rocky Mtn Thunderbolt BC). In other words, this is more low flying enduro race bike (e.g. Yeti SB) than a jump-boosting FR/bike park bike (e.g. SC Nomad).

  19. #19
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    All good info, but I'm not certain I have the knowledge or skill to make sense of it all.

    What I want is the best bike for tons of darn rough natural trails, plus significant drops thrown in (I do 6' ers to flat now, but am progressing steadily). Also needs to work very well at the bike park once a year or so.

    It's hard to top the Yeti 5.5 I'm on now. I'm drawn to the Mondraker for several reasons: coil shock from the factory, forward geometry giving me the long reach I crave, aesthetically pleasing and the paint scheme on the XR rocks, and very unique around here.

    But if the bike doesn't actually work better and result in me climbing more efficiently, descending chunkier and steeper lines, feeling more confident and capable and even fresh all around, then I don't want to change bikes. I want real improvement. Not to just buy a bike just cause.

  20. #20
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    Also, I've read a fair bit of Antonio's stuff, and I think it's awesome that he provides it.

    But when I first encountered it I guess I thought that one could just choose the best suspension design and be done with it, but it's much more complex than that and to top it off, he use to really knock linear leverage ratios like my SB5.5, when in fact these designs are some of the fastest around.

    Furthermore Avalanche mentioned to me once that the conclusions are often incorrect as the manufacturers commonly use doctored photos for press releases making the pivot points inaccurate enough to effect results.

    So I enjoy looking at them, but I'm not sure I can draw any conclusions from it.

  21. #21
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    This would be a side-grade, mainly for reach, water bottle in front triangle, and other creature comforts. The Yeti SB55 is already highly optimized for natural trails, efficiently climbing and riding DH fast. Make the Yeti more linear to further optimize it, at cost of big air capability. You can do a coil on a Yeti as much as this can do coil. Drops, especially to flat, have their landings stuck better on linear suspension, since progressive setups threaten to buck you. I'll just add that longer chainstays pushes the bike towards the natural trails end of the spectrum even further, which is a plus for the Yeti (well, not much in the SB55's case, as it's 437 vs the Foxy 29's 435).

  22. #22
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    ninjichor - you nailed it with your description.

    Just because YT/Specialized run progressive rear ends doesnt mean its the solution to all our riding requirements.

    Yeti have successfully used a very linear system for many years on their SB range and noticeably have only used air shocks as they are so well suited to such systems.

    I think Mondraker have tuned the rear end really well for the intended use - technical trail and capable descending on rough terrain. I don't think this bike is designed for bike park but can't see why you couldnt use it for that purpose.

    I don't have much to compare it to but my much loved mojo3 with DPX2 is (according to the charts) slightly more progressive at the end of stroke but I blow through that shock very easily. No sign of that at all with the Mondy.

    I have only ridden and SB5 and this is not the same. The geometry very much directs how this bike feels. Its just increadibly stable

    i meant to say earlier that you can set the bike up almost XC so you get the most out of climbing as when you descend it take care of everything. I found myself bombing through steps and junk that usually has me out hanging off the back but this time with the dropper fully up and simply sitting central in the bike. so easy !

    I have yet to try anyting but OEM tyres - the 2.3 Agressor has plenty of clearance. I think the 2.5 should be OK but can't confirm at this stage without testing. I have a 2.5 DHF WT ( my all time favorite ) on its way....
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    I wouldn't judge this as "terrible" for a coil. I'd just predict that it allows them to design the frame with extra low static BB, and give a rider a sense of consistent predictability. 29ers cover ground efficiently, and a stiff spring feels less draggy when accelerating, compared to a typical hammock curve from a progressive setup (hammock curve = wallow/plushness). If you tune the progressive setups to use full travel, you tend to run a lot of sag and blow through travel, relying on the wall of the ramp-up; when you've sagged to 35-40%, 70% is your midstroke which is about when the wall starts. This bike's support starts fairly immediately and, with proper spring rate tuned to bottom out, I wouldn't be surprised if you had 25% sag. I question the point of deep sag--if you don't ride in a manner where you demand a lot of "negative" travel, what is that 35-40% of travel used for, if it's not wasted? I imagine you don't want suspension to extend deeply into holes, preferring to skip along the tops.
    It's a matter of safety. With progressiveness on the biggest hits you'll slowly bang into the end of the shock/hardware vs. with no progressiveness you will slam into it and tear metal in a catastrophic failure. This Foxy goes slightly progressive, then it goes digressive through the travel. It'll kinda work with an air shock, but a coil shock? Yes, that's a terrible leverage curve. You are acting as if the entire curve has to be all whacked out like crazy progressive over the whole stroke going into infinity. It doesn't, I've ridden those overly-progressive bikes and they get ultra-harsh deep into the travel and of course you never really use all the travel unless you set it to sag at 50% or more, either way it usually works like crap, but the point is you don't have to make those kinds of sacrifices these days. You don't have to buy a Foxy, there are actually bikes out there with well designed leverage curves. This does not appear to be one of them. Figuring out the leverage curves is not rocket science and Antonio has made some pretty reasonable arguments on how he comes up with them. Could some slight differences throw off the kinematics? Sure, but Antonio said he screens for it and only works with what appears to be the actual end product in enough resolution. I don't buy that all these manufacturers are photo-shopping all of their bikes, I do think that it may not provide enough resolution for shock tuning like Craig at Avalanche does and I know he contracts someone to do this work for the bikes he tunes, plus, he's running a business and has to bet the reputation on it.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  24. #24
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    You will know of Cesar Rojo from Unno. As we know he started out as the engineer behind most of what Mondraker does today and he continues to use a progressive-regressive leverage curve on his bikes.

    I was rather concerned seeing the leverage curve but given I had the bike the day Antonio released it I just ignored it and took the things out for some rides.

    I have zero concerns about its performance and don't think any further progression is required for technical trail riding. Perhaps for bike park but then you would buy a YT Capra or such for that sort of riding I would expect...
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Professed View Post

    I have zero concerns about its performance and don't think any further progression is required for technical trail riding. Perhaps for bike park but then you would buy a YT Capra or such for that sort of riding I would expect...
    You wouldn't take a 6" enduro bike to the park? Why not? That's usually around the cutoff where that kind of bike tends to work really well, vs. people bringing XC bikes and the sort.

    IME, there is no "magic", everything happens for a reason. Leverage curves and suspension kinematics can be extrapolated. It's not some big mystery or conspiracy as it seemed to be 15 years ago. There are a lot of companies that steadfastily cling to outdated ideas and designs, like Specialized, but that doesn't mean that you can't see these for what they are if you are a discerning consumer.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  26. #26
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    [QUOTE=Jayem;13769107]You wouldn't take a 6" enduro bike to the park? Why not? That's usually around the cutoff where that kind of bike tends to work really well, vs. people bringing XC bikes and the sort.

    Agree with you regarding no magic 100%. If you are the XSquare One engineer or salesman than it most certainly is!

    Even gain has a related loss in some respects.

    Please donít get me wrong on the capabilities of this bike. I would definitely take it to a bike park but our bike parks are not like say Whistler. If that were your thing I would buy something more suitable like a Nomad/YT.
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  27. #27
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    Not having ridden a Yeti 5.5 I canít comment exactly but looking at it from data at hand I wouldnít change bikes. The SB5.5 can be tuned to be a seriously capable bike.

  28. #28
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    Stick to the fundamental concepts, rather than trying to reason through "appeal to authority" and anecdote.

    What kind of terrain do you ride? How do you want to ride it? What kind of bike and rider? These are the fundamental questions which you can design for. You can be better prepared for getting specific results, if you aim for them. Safety through well-executed handling of "the 95%", rather than comforting your fears and insecurities, such as feeling tired or sweat in your eyes and a desire for the suspension to save you.

    A progressive bike sagged to 50% might be the right bike for a certain rider and terrain. The same exact bike with a different spring rate (sagged to 25%) might be the right setup for another certain rider and terrain. There's only so much you can predict from the bike itself; judging it to be terrible is taking generalizations a bit far.

    On a bike, sag is considered to be "negative travel". Essentially, it allows the wheel to follow the terrain through deep gaps. This is vital for vehicles like trophy trucks, since they're continuing to accelerate and need the wheel to be on the ground, rather than still in the air. On a bike, you can "trade" negative travel for more positive travel. You can make this compromise *if* you plan on just straight lining through deep chunder and expecting the traction to only happen when your tires are touching the tops. Really now, 50% sag? What's left of the 150mm of rear travel after that. A small fraction of that half, if you consider that the plush zone only goes so far before you hit that supportive wall of ramp up. I'd argue that linear is super easy to ride, while you have to be on your game on the progressive setup, since it'll buck you if you ride "dead sailor". On XC bikes, people set 20-25% sag, so they're still getting up to 75-80mm travel on their 100mm bike. If you're running 40% sag on a 150mm bike, you have 90mm travel left, but that 60mm used for negative travel plays into how squishy the pedal bob is compared to the XC bike's 20-25mm. A 150mm bike sagged to 25% has 112.5mm travel left.

    In Antonio's analysis, the forces curve is as close to an end product simulation you can get, if only he modeled the springs accurately. Looks like he used an EVOL air can in this model, rather than coil. Coil would've had a higher bottom out rate if sagged similarly, believe it or not.

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    Antonio tunes the curves to match according to sag. How many people tune their shocks over time is to tweak it for full travel use, sag % be damned (e.g. sag used only as a starting guideline). If you aligned a spring rates side by side, based on tuning to use full travel, you'd see just how much more mid-stroke support this bike has over progressive setups. On top of that, you won't have to run low rebound damping (vs being critically damped) to prevent packing up with the linear suspension.
    Last edited by ninjichor; 08-07-2018 at 07:57 AM.

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    Yeah good appraisal. The engineers certainly look to know what they are doing.

    Good to see an alternate approach to the current Ďmake it super progressiveí approach by many.

    Looking forward to pushing the bike harder on tougher terrain this weekend to see how this applies itself.

  30. #30
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    Super progressive bikes are what the cool kids ride, literally. When I ride a progressive bike, I look for creative ways to utilize the energy it kicks back out from fast rebound (pop). From simply kicking it out to the side, to getting more airborne, it gives me extra opportunity to have fun. Worry less about PRs and more about most smiles per miles. It's not inefficient, if you judge by how it pedals on the pavement, but since it seems to want to leave the ground more often and has geo to make getting sideways easy (e.g. short chainstays), it's at a disadvantage in terms of PR-setting "efficiency". I crashed very often on them; the act of crashing often made me more efficient at brushing off falls as if nothing happened. Still, it's a hoot.

    People can say that they're not like that, maybe saying they're too old. I think they're selling themselves short. I find that I change style according to the bike I ride. The same route will be a uniquely different experience, if I ride a diff bike on it. It's like girls putting on different outfits: one set might make em feel more elegant, smooth, precise, and flowing. One might make em more explosive, high tempo, and likely to take the lead (or eagerly chasing/following an experienced leader). Another set might make em more creative, more adventurous, more avante garde, taking in the environment and letting it inspire them. Plenty of others... rather not try and judge any as being superior/inferior.

    One you ride loose and wild, another you ride with a calculated precision. The latter sounds more like Greg Minnaar. Might seem boring to watch, compared to other riders, but very respectable still. I would like to see something with longer chainstays like the Pole Machine, for this style of riding, personally.

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    My personal experience with my SB5.5 having a linear LR combined with an air shock, is that it is essentially ideal.

    However part of my interest in the Foxy 29er is the coil shock (not too mention the nice color scheme that comes in that model.

    Combining a linear ratio, with a linear coil shock, is a bad mismatch.

    The 5.5 replacement, the SB150 is supposed to drop within weeks, so i'm going to wait for that. I feel that yeti won't place the wrong product on the bike, for street cred, if it isn't right for the application.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  32. #32
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    I'm curious what all these "super progressive bikes" are. Seems you are lumping everything else into one category to rationalize your purchase.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  33. #33
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    I'm going to be demo one of these at the end of August, can't wait.

    I'm hesitating between this, transition sentinel and a GG Smash for my next bike. I know the GGs very well, and demoed the Sentinel in Sedona, and loved it. The comparison with the foxy should be interesting.
    French line enthusiast and expat in Denver, ig; lazoup

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    I have a mate who recently bought a sentinel. Hoping to review them back to back soon. I expect both to be rather similar in feel and performance.

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    But Foxy is soooo much sexier!!!

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Professed View Post
    I have a mate who recently bought a sentinel. Hoping to review them back to back soon. I expect both to be rather similar in feel and performance.
    I don't know about that. I rode the Sentinel, and it felt very plush and planted. I expect the Foxy to ride higher in his travel and have a better overall dynamic. The Sentinel may be more of a mini-DH.

    What are your thoughts on the cable routing under the BB? I'm mildly OCD when it comes to bikes, that may drive me crazy.
    French line enthusiast and expat in Denver, ig; lazoup

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  37. #37
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    Maybe - I havn't ridden the Sentinel yet so will have to see !

    The foxy does generally ride 'high' - as earlier comments by other have clarified you don't need to run much sag and the initial progressiveness supports the rear end really well. Correctly set up though it is not overly firm nor harsh. I have seen reports of the 27.5" 2108 being 'overly firm'. Matter of taste too I guess.

    Because of that later regression it does becomes a rock munching monster. It moves through the full range of travel easily. I have only ridden trail bikes to date so to me this bike is on another level in terms of absorbtion capability.

    The cable routing isn't an issue so far but there isn't any mud around here. Leaves and sticks occasionally get caught i the rear shock shroud and i don't clip my calves on the pivots anymore.

    still happy with it so far !
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  38. #38
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    99% sure I'm ordering a Mondraker frame set in November when they are available.

    They will have 3 framesets available (I spoke to the importer):

    1) Yellow one with the DPX2.
    2) Blue one with the X2 Coil.
    3) Black one with the Monarch.

    If anyone orders the black one, and would like to swap out their Monarch for the coil shock I'll be getting on the blue one, let's talk.

    I spoke to Qarv Imports a lot, the guy I spoke to is a Pro Enduro racer and rides a Mondraker. I told him the charts say the bike is real linear/ regressive and it needs an air shock and his response was he smashes his Mondrakers's very hard, with coil shocks, and it's real hard to get them to bottom. So I don't know.

    That said, I prefer the pedaling platform of the air shocks (and the lower weight) for All Mountain riding so that's what I'd like on mine.

    Professed, I'd appreciate any input you could provide on your Foxy 29.

  39. #39
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    Hmm, you probably talked to Austen then He's a ripper indeed. He's a whole touch faster than me, but I got to bottom it out while hucking to flat at high speeds, a handful of times, on the air DPX2. I just demoed the RR this weekend, it's an incredibly fast bike. It wasn't a hard bottom out, but I did use all the travel.

    The bike stays very high in its travel though, on more regular circumstances.

    Where are you ordering from? My bike shop told me they were readily available? But maybe he got confused?
    French line enthusiast and expat in Denver, ig; lazoup

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  40. #40
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    In my experience, coils tend to be extremely hard to bottom out, compared to air. When I last did a calculation, for 30% sag (shock rate curve: regressive to ~25%, then progressive), I later convinced myself that I was oversprung based on riding experience.

    The bottom out bumper might be a bit firm for my weight perhaps. I was recommended the current spring rate by numerous susp experts, but can reach similar sag with a -50 lb lighter spring with a few turns of preload. I can definitely feel the bottom out bumper with the lighter spring, but never really felt it actually come to a mechanical stop like it does with air. Upping or decreasing preload didn't affect bottom out, but made the initial stroke saggy and pedal strike prone if I didn't preload.

    I ended up just riding it with the recommended spring, saying that coils are like singlespeeds, that you always got the wrong spring rate, and thinking back to how some brands are offering in-between spring rates and how marginal of an improvement they'd be. I got used to how it ran. The other setup sounded good on paper, with firmer early stroke for pedaling efficiency and plush midstroke, but I prefer the more consistent quality travel of the firmer spring. I might try a -25 lb spring if the shock had a hydraulic bottom out and if the spring didn't cost as much as a Ti one, as the sudden spring rate increase of the bumper was disturbing.

  41. #41
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    On Edit: Yes, it was Austen.

    He said he had only bottomed his personal 27.5 Mondraker with a coil 2x, and he told me that he slams things really hard. But that he was also 150#s whereas I weigh 180.

    If I had my choice, I'd have the Monarch air shock. As it sits, I'll likely have the coil and will see what I think, keep it as a spare, use it for Angel Fire, etc...

    It appears my only option for ordering the frame is a local Mondraker dealer, frankly I'm just not use to paying retail, for anything. They are a great shop, but the frame would cost me after taxes about $1K more than a new SB130, for instance. I'm still struggling with that.

    PS. Pretty sure I'm ordering this frameset this week. I'm struggling on choosing the yellow with the air shock, or the blue with the coil. After staring at them for half the day I went from a 'no way' on the yellow to, 'pretty sure I'd do that!'
    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 08-27-2018 at 07:33 PM.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    In my experience, coils tend to be extremely hard to bottom out, compared to air. When I last did a calculation, for 30% sag (shock rate curve: regressive to ~25%, then progressive), I later convinced myself that I was oversprung based on riding experience.

    The bottom out bumper might be a bit firm for my weight perhaps. I was recommended the current spring rate by numerous susp experts, but can reach similar sag with a -50 lb lighter spring with a few turns of preload. I can definitely feel the bottom out bumper with the lighter spring, but never really felt it actually come to a mechanical stop like it does with air. Upping or decreasing preload didn't affect bottom out, but made the initial stroke saggy and pedal strike prone if I didn't preload.

    I ended up just riding it with the recommended spring, saying that coils are like singlespeeds, that you always got the wrong spring rate, and thinking back to how some brands are offering in-between spring rates and how marginal of an improvement they'd be. I got used to how it ran. The other setup sounded good on paper, with firmer early stroke for pedaling efficiency and plush midstroke, but I prefer the more consistent quality travel of the firmer spring. I might try a -25 lb spring if the shock had a hydraulic bottom out and if the spring didn't cost as much as a Ti one, as the sudden spring rate increase of the bumper was disturbing.
    I'm not certain about your calculations, but coil shocks have a linear spring rate. Meaning they don't get harder to compress as they get lower, just add another 300# for another inch.

    Where-as an air spring is progressive and they get harder and harder as the air volume decreases. Maybe it takes 150# for the first inch, but 400# for the 3rd inch.

    When you have a ratio that appears to be linear (although Qarv said the Montrakers are actually quite Progressive, not the first time I've seen experts disagree with Antonio's blog) you don't get the soft on the top compliance combined with a ton of frame/ spine protecting bottom out resistance.

    Old dirt bikes (pre 1981) did not have linkages to make them progressive, and they sucked with their coil shocks. You could either make the suspension work well over the chatter (soft), or you could make them work well for the big jumps (hard), but never both, until they added Pro-Link/ Full Floater/ etc... to give the needed progressiveness.

    Same reason that KTM's PDS, non-linkage rear suspension worked so poorly for years.
    Now if KTM threw an air shock on the back they could go back to PDS and save a LOT of weight on both the shock and the linkage.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    It appears my only option for ordering the frame is a local Mondraker dealer, frankly I'm just not use to paying retail, for anything. They are a great shop, but the frame would cost me after taxes about $1K more than a new SB130, for instance. I'm still struggling with that.
    Yep, I'm in the same boat. I Love the bike, but I can't really justify dropping that much money into a frame... Even if it rides amazingly well.
    French line enthusiast and expat in Denver, ig; lazoup

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  44. #44
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    So I'm buying a Foxy 29 and have decided that I'm happy with either the yellow or blue frame color, the price difference is not the factor. I want to choose the one with the best shock for rowdy trail riding and one bike park trip every other year. Heck we even have a lift going up an hour from my house that I plan to visit many times per year.

    The DPX2 LV Evol vs. the DHX2 coil.

    Which one are you guys running on your Foxy 29 and what do you think about it? Which way would you go?

    Thanks

    Thanks!

    On Edit, I'm going with the air shock. Read a million reviews and info and I just can't see a real advantage for me using the coil. Seems like a lot of downside. I wish the air shock offering was an X2, but oh well.
    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 08-28-2018 at 04:29 AM.

  45. #45
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    Yeah, i Was about to say. I rode it in White Ranch (close to Golden if you know the Front Range area) and Winter Park, not trying to go slow (the opposite actually). I didn't have any complaint about the rear shock, the DPX2. The suspension is dialed!
    I matched all my PR's in White Ranch, after work (when I usually am terrible), and was a lot faster than my PRs on the park day. I usually ride a coil shock, so I don't see that as being too much of a factor . I ride both of these areas VERY often.
    French line enthusiast and expat in Denver, ig; lazoup

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  46. #46
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    I now have a Foxy 29 XR frameset on order. It's scheduled to arrive in November.

    I will be selling the stock coil shock brand new when it arrives (I already bought a Superdeluxe RC3 for it) so for those that are coil curious, it'll be here.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  47. #47
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    Just placed my order for an R model. Can't wait for it to show up.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Professed View Post
    Maybe - I havn't ridden the Sentinel yet so will have to see !

    The foxy does generally ride 'high' - as earlier comments by other have clarified you don't need to run much sag and the initial progressiveness supports the rear end really well. Correctly set up though it is not overly firm nor harsh. I have seen reports of the 27.5" 2108 being 'overly firm'. Matter of taste too I guess.

    Because of that later regression it does becomes a rock munching monster. It moves through the full range of travel easily. I have only ridden trail bikes to date so to me this bike is on another level in terms of absorbtion capability.

    The cable routing isn't an issue so far but there isn't any mud around here. Leaves and sticks occasionally get caught i the rear shock shroud and i don't clip my calves on the pivots anymore.

    still happy with it so far !
    I've spoken to Austen at Qarv, the importers for Mondraker. Austen races the Pro Enduro class. He told me that the bike works beautifully at 35% sag and that's how it needs to be set up. I asked like 3x just for clarification and he was quite adamant.

    FYI

    PSI, I am not a fan of that cable routing.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by xavierp View Post
    Yeah, i Was about to say. I rode it in White Ranch (close to Golden if you know the Front Range area) and Winter Park, not trying to go slow (the opposite actually). I didn't have any complaint about the rear shock, the DPX2. The suspension is dialed!
    I matched all my PR's in White Ranch, after work (when I usually am terrible), and was a lot faster than my PRs on the park day. I usually ride a coil shock, so I don't see that as being too much of a factor . I ride both of these areas VERY often.
    That's a heck of an endorsement.

  50. #50
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    Do any of you Foxy 29 owners know if your shock mounts have roller bearing mounts in them?

    I had great luck with this mod on my Yeti, and several of the reviews I have read on 2017 Mondraker's complain explicitly about the stiction in the rear shock but one mentioned this had been changed for 2018 and up.

    Please advise.

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  52. #52
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    Just got done with a demo week with one of these in the RR big bird flavor. Was a nice bike, was pretty much a 1 trick pony for me though. Fast in a straight line. Other than that a pretty boring ride. Would make a amazing race bike, but as your only bike unless all you car about was speed at all times then it was pretty boring, like in the back seat on a ride boring. The rear tire clearance was too close for me as well. With a 2.3 aggressor it sat WAY too close for comfort to the little fender to keep suspension clean. A bigger 2.5 and a slight bit of mud and you would be in trouble quick. I live in colorado springs Colorado where we have quite a bit of decomposed granite ( AKA gravel) and the smaller tire was bringing little rocks around I could hear hit the cross brace. Over all a OK bike, I would own one for just a race bike, but at the MSRP of a Yeti which is already above 98% of the industry and only 1 local shop for support I would say I have to pass.

  53. #53
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    Thanks for the feedback. I think it's a love it or hate it kind of bike because it's at an extreme.

    Would love to hear your opinions on climbing and turning.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Just got done with a demo week with one of these in the RR big bird flavor. Was a nice bike, was pretty much a 1 trick pony for me though. Fast in a straight line. Other than that a pretty boring ride. Would make a amazing race bike, but as your only bike unless all you car about was speed at all times then it was pretty boring, like in the back seat on a ride boring. The rear tire clearance was too close for me as well. With a 2.3 aggressor it sat WAY too close for comfort to the little fender to keep suspension clean. A bigger 2.5 and a slight bit of mud and you would be in trouble quick. I live in colorado springs Colorado where we have quite a bit of decomposed granite ( AKA gravel) and the smaller tire was bringing little rocks around I could hear hit the cross brace. Over all a OK bike, I would own one for just a race bike, but at the MSRP of a Yeti which is already above 98% of the industry and only 1 local shop for support I would say I have to pass.
    I don't know my good man, I had quite a lot of fun to throw that bike sideways at Winter Park Maybe it suits me. Not the MOST fun bike, I agree, especially compared to say, a Sentinel, but still OK given its length.

    Ride soon?
    French line enthusiast and expat in Denver, ig; lazoup

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  55. #55
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    I rode one in Vail at the Outlier demo yesterday and really liked it. I expected it to be too long and hard to turn. Instead it was about the best handling bike I've ridden. There was amazing stability that invited me to go faster because it was matched with superior cornering confidence. It completely railed tight corners and quick back and forth situations. You absolutely had to plan ahead for the tight corners but when you did it turned perfectly. I was really surprised but it worked great downhill for me. Unfortunately I didn't really do any climbing and I didn't love the rear suspension. It wasn't plush with a DPX2 and my body weight which is what they recommended. The rear tire clearance was also limited so I couldn't see running a 2.5. Now I just wish their pricing made more sense. The frame is more expensive than the most coveted brands when they are a fringe player at best.
    2 wheels

  56. #56
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    Thanks for the review. Good data point.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  57. #57
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    This is one of the sexiset full suspension frames I have ever seen.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mailloux View Post
    This is one of the sexiset full suspension frames I have ever seen.
    I'd be lying if I didn't say that the looks of the bike, were a factor for me.

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