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  1. #1
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    need help, never came across this issue before

    i recently upgraded to a 20mm thru axle fork and i got a new hub from bikepartsmart.com , the hubs brand is QUANTA, my lbs said its probably an part of a bigger company, but the new hub and the old hubs flange arnt the same width, theres like a 1/4 -1/2mm differnence in width. my problem is that my lbs said the old spokes might work, they couldent get the demensions of the hub on line and the calaper wasnt the best option, my problem is that the old spokes angles (opposite of the threaded end) fit right on the inside when the butted end is on the outside of the hub flange but when the butted is in the inside the short part after the bend isnt long enough to have the spoke line up right, is there different spokes for this type of hub, please help, thanks, any questions on what i'm talking about just ask

  2. #2
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    I think the hub is actualy WHEEL MASTER TX Quando KT-TWI

  3. #3
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickmonette
    i recently upgraded to a 20mm thru axle fork and i got a new hub from bikepartsmart.com , the hubs brand is QUANTA, my lbs said its probably an part of a bigger company, but the new hub and the old hubs flange arnt the same width, theres like a 1/4 -1/2mm differnence in width. my problem is that my lbs said the old spokes might work, they couldent get the demensions of the hub on line and the calaper wasnt the best option, my problem is that the old spokes angles (opposite of the threaded end) fit right on the inside when the butted end is on the outside of the hub flange but when the butted is in the inside the short part after the bend isnt long enough to have the spoke line up right, is there different spokes for this type of hub, please help, thanks, any questions on what i'm talking about just ask
    Find somebody else to build your wheel.

    Measuring a hub you have in your hand is a basic skill and a necessary one for a wheelbuilder to have.

    In any case I would not reuse the spokes or rim unless they are brand new.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  4. #4
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    thats not the problem, i wish i could draw i picture but the depth of the flange is deeper than the depth of my old flange, the spokes that are on the outside of the flange has to short of the small part after the bend to go through the flange and seat right

  5. #5
    trail addict
    Reputation: Uncle Six Pack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickmonette
    thats not the problem, i wish i could draw i picture but the depth of the flange is deeper than the depth of my old flange, the spokes that are on the outside of the flange has to short of the small part after the bend to go through the flange and seat right
    Buy new spokes.... definitely worth the money

    I'm with shiggy.
    You better just go ahead and drop that seatpost down to the reflector... the trail gets pretty rough down there.

  6. #6
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    New spokes anytime you build a wheel. And as was said earlier...any decent wheel builder should be able to measure a hub, we get strange ones in all the time.

  7. #7
    Picture Unrelated
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    Count me in with the group:

    New spokes every time.

    Anyway, am I understanding correctly that the hub flange is too thick for the spokes to sit properly? It sounds like you are trying to describe that the spokes aren't able to go through the flange past the j-bend so that the spokes will need to be bent a lot in order to get them to the spoke nipples.

    If that's the case, then I would have a shop look at it. You'll probably be fine allowing the spoke to bent at the flange more than normal but I can't say without seeing it. Most likely due to an excessive amount of powdercoat build up on the hub flange when they coated it.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  8. #8
    RiffRaff
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    Im with zebrahum. When dealing with some "beefier" hubs, especialy lower end hubs, the flange can be a bit wider. Take a spoke and see if you can work it around the J bend. I had to do this on a set before. What ended up happening is that I got all the spokes in but they would not move freely in the hub. It actually made the build easier because the spokes weren't flopping around on me.
    "If Liberace was alive, he'd be proud to ride that mofo."

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