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  1. #26
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    My beast!
    Your big wheels are so awesome!

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Badpichu View Post
    My beast!
    that is sick!! especially how you were able to get to such a nice weight even with the saint cranks

    I wanted to rename the thread to call it "NS Soda pics, reviews, discussion" thread but maybe mods have to do that

  3. #28
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    It is such a great bike, I really wanted to like the covert but I was not fully satisfied with it. The soda I think should be the blue print for what frames need to be. You can create an am/downhill/freeride bike super versatile. I used to ride clipped in also and went back to platforms and have really been having fun I makes me want to ride more often because it is fun. Pretty stocked on the bike I think you will start seeing more and more of them.
    Your big wheels are so awesome!

  4. #29
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    Dh Build?

    This bike has really caught my attention.

    Does anyone out there have this rig build up for full on DH style? I mostly ride at Highland mtb park in NH and do a good mix of machine built jump trails and natural DH tracks. How does the Soda handle the chunky DH stuff? I think I would build it up with a dual crown, and DH wheels/ tires.

    This rig looks great, and seems affordable.
    Thanks

  5. #30
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    I can't imagine this bike not being able to handle anything DH related unless extremely rough but I would think it would not have any issues in that either, very stout frame. If you put a serious wheel set and dual crown it would be a mean little DH bike IMO.
    Your big wheels are so awesome!

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by elsinore View Post
    How does the Soda handle the chunky DH stuff?
    I can't really say how it would ride with a dual crown, but he soda kills chunk in long travel mode. Even with the air can its so active and plush despite you actually put a little more air into the shock for use in long travel due to change in leverage rate. I've seen bikes called "mini dh"; I would call it that.

    I think it would be a great dh/freeride bike with a dual crown. And the good thing is you could set it up to where the measurements keep the intended geo intact with head angle and balanced feel. Only thing is the chainstays are a lot shorter than I think most dh bikes, so not exactly a dh race bike. Depends on the goal of the build.

    The bike was designed for resort riding though. I think a big single crown like 66 or totem paired with coil and the right wheels would be perfect.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride the biscuit View Post
    I can't really say how it would ride with a dual crown, but he soda kills chunk in long travel mode. Even with the air can its so active and plush despite you actually put a little more air into the shock for use in long travel due to change in leverage rate. I've seen bikes called "mini dh"; I would call it that.

    I think it would be a great dh/freeride bike with a dual crown. And the good thing is you could set it up to where the measurements keep the intended geo intact with head angle and balanced feel. Only thing is the chainstays are a lot shorter than I think most dh bikes, so not exactly a dh race bike. Depends on the goal of the build.

    The bike was designed for resort riding though. I think a big single crown like 66 or totem paired with coil and the right wheels would be perfect.
    Thanks for the thoughts. Can you adjust the chainstays while staying in the longer travel mode? ie- long travel short stays? The numbers on this rig look great, its like a lower, more versatile Blindside.

    Also, does anyone have info on the 2013 Soda? There does not seem to be any large 2012's in the states and I am guessing I will have to wait until next years frames are out to get my hands on one. BTI, the US distributor does not have any large frames at least...

    Thanks again

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by elsinore View Post
    Can you adjust the chainstays while staying in the longer travel mode? ie- long travel short stays?
    NS says no, although I'm not sure why.

    Makes me wonder if its something benign like they didnt like the way it handled in that setting or something like a durability or functionality issue.

  9. #34
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    Setting short CS in long travel mode might potentially / on paper result with the tyre hitting the seattube before the shock bottoms out. In reality it will happen only with big fat 2.5" tyres. Tyres up to 2.3-2.35" wont be affected so you could try & review the missing 4th setup If you have any doubts about tyre size vs seattube just check the clearance with no air in the shock first.

    small change is geo for next year model:
    2012 Soda seat tube: M: 393mm (15.5"), L: 417mm (16.5")
    2013 Soda seat tube: M: 393mm (15.5"), L: 432mm (17")

    2013 Soda will be available in three colours (silver-blue now gloss instead of matt, chrome-fluo gloss instead of silver-lime matt, black pearl gloss)

  10. #35
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    I just bought a 180mm fork for mine which I will swap out with my 160mm I am looking forward to setting it up more for free ride I hope I like it with the 180.
    Your big wheels are so awesome!

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Badpichu View Post
    I just bought a 180mm fork for mine which I will swap out with my 160mm I am looking forwd to setting it up more for free ride I hope I like it with the 180.
    Are able to keep your 160 m fork too or will you have to sell it? Having a light 160 m fork and a big 180 to swap back and forth would be ideal. Really the totem would be ideal if it wasnt too heavy for trail riding

    I've had mine in 160m/ short cs mode for a while now and im loving it. It is so nice for tight tech east coast style trails and riding jumps drops and skinnies

    I've noticed that in short cs mode I can run more sag than I would normally would for trail riding because the platform is always right where you want it even with the shock set up plusher

  12. #37
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    Bike looks great

  13. #38
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    I just put the 180 on the Soda, I think the bike was built for that fork! Has anyone tried the rp23 on the bike for just trail riding? I like the monarch but would like to have a lighter shock for trail use and the coil for larger stuff.
    Your big wheels are so awesome!

  14. #39
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    Follow up - Feedback on Custy Service

    I wanted to add a little more to this thread since I have had an experience dealing with NS customer service.

    Sorry, I just cant describe this without being long-winded as usual...

    Several rides after I bought the frame I noticed a tiny amount of play somewhere on the bike; however, I very quickly isolated it to the rearward shock mount hardware. I further boiled it down to the interface between the bolt and the pin. By pin, I mean the part between your bolt and the DU bushing inside the shock eyelet....basically the inner dia of the pin was just slightly too big for the bolt.

    As soon as I knew what it was, I basically didnt really care because I figured it couldnt do any harm.

    Fast forward a few months, and I decided to see if I could get this pesky issue solved. I to contacted NS, interested to see how things would go.

    Well, I got what I consider an incredible level of customer service...from ANY company, let alone one half way around the world where English is not the native language.

    First off, they were incredibly responsive and obviously were a lot more concerned about this little annoyance than I was. I never did the math, but I would always get such a fast email response from them I'd think, "wait, what time is it in Poland right now?".

    Second, they made it really easy on me. They didnt require me to take pictures or anything, but rather established a level of mutual understanding through some email exchanges.

    Third, the solution, and I found this really surprising: they implemented a 2 part solution. They 1) had a quick replacement part made at a machine shop, which they sent as soon as it was available so that they could get me sorted as quickly as possible then 2) ran a batch of CNC detailed black permanent replacements made close to them which I got about a month after the first replacement.

    Well, me being lazy, the first replacement worked just fine so the second is just sitting in my garage, but I'm sure it will be fine just putting the pin through it off the bike.

    Thanks NS

    PS: the NS guys were not aware I was the author of this thread at the time of my service request, but I did mention it to them after the problem was resolved. They were really cool about it, thanking me for my feedback and asking a few of my thoughts, etc...

  15. #40
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    One other comment from my initial review

    One follow-up from my initial review regarding the use of the clear plastic sheath I used to protect my shifter cables. I initially wrote:

    There is also optional clear plastic tubes to protect your cables where they exit the downtube and enter the chainstays. I chose to use mine. It is big enough to where its pinned in pretty tight between the big lower pivot and my chainguide. However, I have no problem with this as it aint causin no harm or drag on pivot movement...rather, it looks very neatly tucked away.

    Well, in Nov I had to replace my shifter cable due to driving the bike into a cable cord while mounted on my rack, and I did notice some rubbing evident where I had described it being wedged in between the chainguide plate and the lower pivot. Nothing bad, just starting to rub the anno a bit.

    So I strung it back up without the clear coating sheath, and its all good. There is now wiggle room so I'm not worried about excessive wear. I'm also not worried about the cable itself...it really isnt very exposed in the first place. Especially when you compare to some bikes that route cables all the way down the underside of the downtube and around the bottom bracket

    I'm pretty sure thats the only other relevant info I have. Other than that, I've had the bike in short travel / short chain stay since the time of the initial review and it is the bees knees in this setting.

  16. #41
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    This is intersting I had the same issue but I guess I usually try to figure out issues on my own before I call companies. I put two tiny washers on each side of the bolts on the shock which solved the play issue for me. Have not touched it since. I was wondering if I was the only one with the issue and since I hate play on my bike I had to figure it out. I also had the issue with the 12mm axel which I also fixed very easily. All in all great bike so far.
    Your big wheels are so awesome!

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Badpichu View Post
    This is intersting I had the same issue but I guess I usually try to figure out issues on my own before I call companies. I put two tiny washers on each side of the bolts on the shock which solved the play issue for me. Have not touched it since. I was wondering if I was the only one with the issue and since I hate play on my bike I had to figure it out. I also had the issue with the 12mm axel which I also fixed very easily. All in all great bike so far.
    I hate play too but as soon as I realized what it was I didn't care much. that's why I like the security of beefy pivots..they seem so durable. you can grab the new hardware free from NS I'd you ever felt like emailing them. I know they have fixed the issue for all current and future customers and have replacements for those that need it

    With the 12 m axle are you referring to thick paint in the axle mount? I had that but it was a non-issue

  18. #43
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    Yea I had the thick paint issue but I used a bit of sand paper and good to go.
    Your big wheels are so awesome!

  19. #44
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    Hey has anyone built up an NS soda with a standard QR hub? Or could anyone verify whether or not that would work? I want a Soda frame, but I don't want to have to get a new rear hub laced in.

  20. #45
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    buggyr, you're good to go as long as its for a 135 x 10, which it almost certainly is.

    what is your current bike and what is the hub? a lot of hubs can be converted/upgraded pretty easy, in which case you wouldnt have to but it is worth it performance wise

  21. #46
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    Its a 2009 diamondback scapegoat (standard 9mm qr) with an SLX hub. I was just asking because I have only seen them with through axles, and have seen no definitive answer (says 10mm "bolt type" on the NS website which led me to think it might not work with the standard 9mm qr.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333 View Post
    Its a 2009 diamondback scapegoat (standard 9mm qr) with an SLX hub. I was just asking because I have only seen them with through axles, and have seen no definitive answer (says 10mm "bolt type" on the NS website which led me to think it might not work with the standard 9mm qr.
    all rear hubs are 10mm qr. 9mm qr is only a fork thing. Oh and it's fairly easy to convert most shimano hubs to bolt on (it's worth it!) with about $10 in parts. Makes a HUGE difference in stiffness. You just need a wheels manufacturing 174mm solid 10x1mm Wheels Manufacturing AXLE-06

    that is to say, you can run your standard hub, but it would be worth your time to convert your hub to a bolt on configuration.

    Apologies for the derail; but I hopefully that helps!

  23. #48
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    Soda flying!

    My NS Soda build-santos_sm.jpg
    Your big wheels are so awesome!

  24. #49
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    That was next on my list. Toss up between the Rune and the Soda. I picked up a Rune. Sweet bike man!!!
    Colorado Springs, Co.
    www.theInflexibles.com

  25. #50
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    Sorry to bring up an old thread, but how is the bunnyhop ability of this bike?
    I am looking at getting a nice playful full suspension bike but would like to still be able to hop over logs, onto ledges and enjoy a bit of street riding.
    I ride an Evil Faction hardtail (more a dirt jump style bike) at the moment which I love, and tend to think the Soda may be too much bike?

    Cheers
    Benno

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