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  1. #1
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    Make my GF HiFi more AM

    How can I make my Gary Fisher HiFi 26" - 09 more AM? I feel it's to XC now, coming of a freeride bike, I want something in between. Get rid of the feeling of going over the bar when the trails go downwards.

    Is it worth it or should I just change bike..

  2. #2
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    I used to own a HiFi. Put a short stem on her (50 - 70mm). The 'over the bars' feeling will be gone and going down will be much more fun.
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  3. #3
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    Yea a 50mm stem and 150mm fork would do it.

  4. #4
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    Im in the same situation as the OP... Everything feels pretty good except too far forward for downhill sections. I have a 90mm 10deg stem right now and would like to go to 60mm, but id need around 30deg rise to keep the bar about the same height. I know bontrager has one at 60mm and 25 deg, but id have to order it and its pretty pricey. Anyone have suggestions where i could find a fairly cheap stem with those specs? steerer is 1 1/8 and bar clamp needs to be 25.4. I dont want to spend too much just to try something out, and i cant find a LBS with what i need in stock
    "That's a niiiiiiiice biiike boy! That a Huffy!?"

  5. #5
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    More AM? Thats easy. JB weld a can of MT. Dew to the stem along with a new paint job the color of Chuck Norris' beard. Points if you can actually attain a sample of CN's beard hair for a perfect color match.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickbm3
    Im in the same situation as the OP... Everything feels pretty good except too far forward for downhill sections. I have a 90mm 10deg stem right now and would like to go to 60mm, but id need around 30deg rise to keep the bar about the same height. I know bontrager has one at 60mm and 25 deg, but id have to order it and its pretty pricey. Anyone have suggestions where i could find a fairly cheap stem with those specs? steerer is 1 1/8 and bar clamp needs to be 25.4. I dont want to spend too much just to try something out, and i cant find a LBS with what i need in stock
    How much rise do your bars have?

    Here's a cheap but decent quality 50mm/25.4 stem: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...m+Stem+08.aspx

    And then I'd just get some 2"+ riser bars to account for a lost height: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Riser+Bar.aspx
    "Got everything you need?"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18
    More AM? Thats easy. JB weld a can of MT. Dew to the stem along with a new paint job the color of Chuck Norris' beard. Points if you can actually attain a sample of CN's beard hair for a perfect color match.
    If you attain such a sample, there is no need to bother with the can and the paint. Just glue the hair to the downtube.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickbm3
    Im in the same situation as the OP... Everything feels pretty good except too far forward for downhill sections. I have a 90mm 10deg stem right now and would like to go to 60mm, but id need around 30deg rise to keep the bar about the same height. I know bontrager has one at 60mm and 25 deg, but id have to order it and its pretty pricey. Anyone have suggestions where i could find a fairly cheap stem with those specs? steerer is 1 1/8 and bar clamp needs to be 25.4. I dont want to spend too much just to try something out, and i cant find a LBS with what i need in stock
    How about just using head set spacers to get what ever stem you do get to your ideal height? Problem though is finding a short stem with a 25.4 clamp. Find a stem and bars.

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/200...-Stem-2010.htm

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/206...-Handlebar.htm

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18
    How about just using head set spacers to get what ever stem you do get to your ideal height? Problem though is finding a short stem with a 25.4 clamp. Find a stem and bars.

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/200...-Stem-2010.htm

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/206...-Handlebar.htm
    Well the problem with just adding spacers is that the steerer isnt long enough I bought a used RS Reba (my bike came with a fork that only had 60mm of travel), and the steerer tube was already cut just a little bit shorter than what i needed, so i already had to take out one spacer to get that to work. Does the whole height of the stem clamp have to be on the steerer? if not, i could maybe put that spacer back in.
    "That's a niiiiiiiice biiike boy! That a Huffy!?"

  10. #10
    usually cranky
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    the standard mtbr am formula: shorter stem, wider bars, beefier fork. apply as needed to achieve desired results.

  11. #11
    Big Gulps, Alright!
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    Fatter tires never hurt.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    the standard mtbr am formula: shorter stem, wider bars, beefier fork. apply as needed to achieve desired results.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curmy
    hahaha how graphic Curmy...

  14. #14
    Pirate!!!
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    I added kenda nevegals, wide riser bars, wtb seat, and an adjustable seat post, works for me..

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curmy
    I would so sport that bike. Seriously.

  16. #16
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    Is the 69,7 head angle to steep or can I get away with it. . .worst case scenerio is change bike or buy head angle set.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendelMu
    Is the 69,7 head angle to steep or can I get away with it. . .worst case scenerio is change bike or buy head angle set.
    I had a 130mm RS Revelation (total lenght axle/crown is 508mm) and I used some "spacers" at home to emulate the 21milimeters extra to reach the 150mm RS Sektor model I was thinking of (529mm).

    These are the results...

    Seat tube angle a little slacker, not a big deal for the seat post and frame (from 72 to 71,5 approx)
    Standover almost the same.
    Slacker head tube angle, from 68,5 to 68
    Longer wheelbase, from 1,100 to 1,115 (approx)
    Bottom Bracket is now a bit higher, from 330 to 335mm

    I know some in this forum think that 68 is equal to XC but that's not true, just question of preferences and the level of trails they're doing. Moreover, while climbing you have (in the case of a Rock Shox) the extra help of the U-Turn dial to change the lenght of your bike and, eventually, the geometry of your bike to make uphills easily.

    And I think that's it! hope this helps.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helmetless
    Slacker head tube angle, from 68,5 to 68
    Sounds odd - 20mm should give you about a full degree, shouldn't it?

  19. #19
    Double-metric mtb man
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    MendleMu, some ideas:

    1) Wider bars
    2) Shorter stem
    3) Lower seat (or a dropper)
    4) Live with the fact that there is only so much you can do to a more XC bike like the HiFi (I'm in the same boat with my Cake)

    I wouldn't add too much on the fork...you'll void the warranty (Fisher / Trek don't play there...if it breaks and you're running more fork than stock, you're SOL on warranty)
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curmy
    Sounds odd - 20mm should give you about a full degree, shouldn't it?
    Can't see a big difference from the 130mm Revelation; believe it or not but I'm obsessed about geometry and can't see a full degree although it's just an "approach". Probably a three-quarter degree.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helmetless
    Can't see a big difference from the 130mm Revelation; believe it or not but I'm obsessed about geometry and can't see a full degree although it's just an "approach". Probably a three-quarter degree.
    I thought it is just a simple math - lift top tube ~17mm, for average wheelbase and typical head angle and fork rake - gives about a degree. For sagged angle that would be about 25mm of extra travel. Did you measure it static?

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