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  1. #1
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    Light weight 160mm + bikes

    Post up your 160mm travel (or more) light weight builds.

    What's the spec and how much does it weigh?.

    I wonder what the lightest practical build is for a big hitting all mountain bike.

  2. #2
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    Does weight really matter when you break something?
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  3. #3
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    I'm not a weight weenie and will not compromise performance for light weight.

    But if you can retain descending performance and durability and at a lighter weight you will increase climbing ability and have an overall better bike.

    Or you may be able to increase travel and descending ability while retaining equivalent climbing ability by speccing a lighter longer travel bike.

    What are the practical limits? I'm interested to know.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by plummet View Post
    Post up your 160mm travel (or more) light weight builds.

    What's the spec and how much does it weigh?.

    I wonder what the lightest practical build is for a big hitting all mountain bike.
    The lightest practical build would probably be dependent on rider weight. Someone who weighs 130 lbs is going to put less stress on a build than a 210 lb person would.

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  5. #5
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    I have a medium aluminum Balance that is 31 pounds on the nose with Nox Farlow carbon wheels and CCDBA shock. I have a lot of product knowledge and my personal opinion is that you can't get under that weight safely on a big travel bike if used for park/big hit riding. You can shave off a pound or two by going with a carbon frame bike like a Nomad. And I don't agree at all on the rider's weight coming into play... once you start hitting big stuff things are going to break regardless unless they are up to the task. Aggressive trail riding is a different story.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Last edited by Gman086; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:16 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    And I don't agree at all on the rider's weight coming into play... once you start hitting big stuff things are going to break regardless unless they are up to the task.
    You must be fairly small if you think that.
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  7. #7
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    These days, 28lb can be a beefy 160mm build. Not crazy beefy, but strong rims and useable parts.

  8. #8
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    I had a Santa Cruz Nomad that was just over 27 pounds.

    CC Version with the XX1 Kit

    Bike could handle way more than I could.

    Light weight 160mm + bikes-speccapture.jpg

    Light weight 160mm + bikes-s-l1600-10-medium-.jpg

  9. #9
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    I'm riding a large Turner RFX, XO 11spd, RS Lyrik fork, Knight carbon wheels, KS Integra dropper, so really nothing extremely light, but everything is durable. Bike weights 28lbs with pedals and bottle cage.
    Last edited by Hurricane Jeff; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:48 AM.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by plummet View Post
    I wonder what the lightest practical build is for a big hitting all mountain bike.
    It's three.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by plummet View Post
    Post up your 160mm travel (or more) light weight builds.

    What's the spec and how much does it weigh?.

    I wonder what the lightest practical build is for a big hitting all mountain bike.
    How much money have you got?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesmokingman View Post
    How much money have you got?
    Exactly.

    As they say: light, strong and inexpensive. Pick 2
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  13. #13
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    My Nomad with 150mm Reverb, no chainguide, Monarch+ shock, and 2.4 HRII Exo tires is 26.3lbs. It spends much more time wearing 2.5 WTB Breakout Toughs, 200mm 9point8, a carbon MRP, and sometimes even a Vivid Air which bumps it to 29.1lbs.

    Everything that can be weight weenied on the bike is including every bolt being Ti or Al but it still has held up to pro enduro racing since 2014 with no problems.

    I'm about to give the same treatment to a 170mm 29" Capra and I expect it to be just over 30lbs with 2.5" Double Down tires. For reference I have a 26" V10 that's 31.5lbs with 2.7" Minion DH casing tires.
    Keep the Country country.

  14. #14
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    My bike setup depends largely where I'm riding, and if I'm riding or racing. Weight difference between my heaviest tire/wheelset and lightest combo is 1160g or 2.5lb. When you shed weight you give up a little bit of reliability and as long as you understand and change your riding style accordingly you should be fine. If you are doing 6000 ft of climbing, you may not want to carry 2.5lb additional rotating weight. But if you are doing 25 mph through a rock garden, you wouldn't want a flat or worse a busted wheel. Riding conditions (rocks or loam), rider weight, aggressiveness (my 17 year old rides much differently than I do) are some of the things I think about. 2.5lb difference is just wheels and tires.

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    currently 29.5 lb with XT Trail Pedals
    Light Build 28.2 lb with XT Trail Pedals
    Bike Park build 32.2 lb with XT Trail Pedals (coil shock, bash guard, etc)


    I have 2 wheelsets, Spank Oozy 345 2050g , and Ibis 742 1630g

    Front Tires options:
    2.5WT DHF DD Max Grip or 2.5WT DHF Maxx Terra (1170g/945g)
    2.35 Magic Mary Super Gravity or Snakeskin (1100g/835g)

    Rear tire Options:
    2.5WT Aggressor DD 1100g
    2.4 WT DHRII 900g
    Rock Razor Super Gravity or Snakeskin (965g/695g)
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  15. #15
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    My new orbea occam is 27.8lb. Still has the stock 580g rear rim and heavy hub. 350g bars. The crank has to be close to 900g... its still a 2x setup.

    I have room to trim it down using strong parts. Its going to be around 26lb. Its not even an expensive build.

    Bike was $1599. I didnt spend much on upgrades either. Things are cheap, strong, and light now.

  16. #16
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    To be clear... my statement was for a "big hitting" build which to me is a build you can use every day at a bike park; a big difference as both Lelandjt and LegionX correctly point out. A bike build like BluePitch's with 2.3 single ply Minions and a Monarch Plus shock is just not "big hitting" IMHO so it depends on your own expectations.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    To be clear... my statement was for a "big hitting" build which to me is a build you can use every day at a bike park; a big difference as both Lelandjt and LegionX correctly point out. A bike build like BluePitch's with 2.3 single ply Minions and a Monarch Plus shock is just not "big hitting" IMHO so it depends on your own expectations.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    I also had a DHX2 with steel coil and 2.5WT tires that quickly switched my small hitting N3 to a medium hitting N3. Was closer to 29lbs in that trim.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I also had a DHX2 with steel coil and 2.5WT tires that quickly switched my small hitting N3 to a medium hitting N3. Was closer to 29lbs in that trim.
    Yup, that makes sense to me and starting to see a pattern here... about 29ish or so pounds is about as light as you can go for that type of riding.

    Cheers,

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    My new orbea occam is 27.8lb. Still has the stock 580g rear rim and heavy hub. 350g bars. The crank has to be close to 900g... its still a 2x setup.

    I have room to trim it down using strong parts. Its going to be around 26lb. Its not even an expensive build.

    Bike was $1599. I didnt spend much on upgrades either. Things are cheap, strong, and light now.
    You're sure your scale is accurate? That weight just doesn't seem possible. Not even with Exo tires.
    Keep the Country country.

  20. #20
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    I'm just gonna mention that the Monarch+ and DPX shocks are pretty legit for real enduro riding, especially after some customizing from someone like Diaz Suspension. I rarely replace the Monarch+ with the 1/2lb heavier Vivid Air since Anthony got it feeling how I want.
    Keep the Country country.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    You're sure your scale is accurate? That weight just doesn't seem possible. Not even with Exo tires.
    That's what I was thinking. At $1600, I'm guessing on sale it might be the alu H30 variant that is spec'd at 31lbs.

  22. #22
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    Bone stock it was 29.8lb. I had parts laying around, but they were cheap too. Xfusion sweep measured a tad under 1900g. Not bad for a 160mm fork, for $250 new. Changed one wheel and tire, plus the fork, and got under 28lb.

    The Occam AM ships under 25lb in its highest trim.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    The Occam AM ships under 25lb in its highest trim.
    Sure but it also stickers for 8G's! Thus post #11.

  24. #24
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    30.11lbs?
    170mm front, 165mm rear. 2.35 tires though. I rarely go wider unless I was going to be uplifted for several days in a row.
    I think the only carbon parts are the bars. Could probably shave some weight with new cranks and a no Saint parts.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    My new orbea occam is 27.8lb. Still has the stock 580g rear rim and heavy hub. 350g bars. The crank has to be close to 900g... its still a 2x setup.

    I have room to trim it down using strong parts. Its going to be around 26lb. Its not even an expensive build.

    Bike was $1599. I didnt spend much on upgrades either. Things are cheap, strong, and light now.
    What are the specs on your Build? Is weight with or without pedals?

    If I want to weight weenie my build, I’ve gotten it down to 26 lb without pedals. Top shelf Occam comes with a Fox 34 and Ardents. Also comes with DT-Swiss XMC1200 which are 1450g and good for regular trail riding, but not my definition “big hitting all mountain” wheel set. DT’s EX series are more my definition and come in at 1860g. Everybody has there own ideas of what is light. I ride a lot in the Lake Tahoe area in Northern California and 1000g tires are the norm.

    You can make most bikes light. Light and strong is possible if you throw enough $$$ at the problem.

    Please share the details of your build. What tires and wheelset are you running? Wheel size?
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    My new orbea occam is 27.8lb.
    How much travel does an Occam have?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    How much travel does an Occam have?
    2018 Orbea Occam AM is 150/150, comes with Fox 34.
    2018 Orbea Occam TR is 130/120, also comes with Fox 34.

    One Pivot has a custom build.

    Orbea also makes the Rallon which is a 160/150 29er. Rallon ships with Fox 36.

    For the OP, the fun part of this hobby is trying out different components and seeing what works for you. When my son started riding, we went to Northstar Bike Park and he rode a 2012 Ibis Mojo SL 140/140. 26” XC bike with 700g tires. Bike held up ok, but he was 14, 140lb and just starting to ride. Now, he is 180lb, raced the North Star Enduro last year and would probably destroy his old bike on his fun run down.

    For a dependable bike, 27lb -30lb seems to be the range for “light” builds with pedals. <27lb in my experience is where compromises are made or $$$ becomes a bigger issue. I know Scott and a couple other brands make good lighter bikes, but these are my “general” experiences.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by LegionX View Post
    2018 Orbea Occam AM is 150/150, comes with Fox 34.
    2018 Orbea Occam TR is 130/120, also comes with Fox 34.

    One Pivot has a custom build.
    So not a 160mm bike then. You could get a light hardtail and chuck a 160mm fork on it. Voila. Think of the weight savings!

  29. #29
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    2018 Giant Reign SX

    Race Face Next R crank / kept the stock MRP chain guides on

    SRAM XX1 cassette, der and shifter

    Renthal FatBar Carbon 800mm

    ENVE HV60 with 240 hubs

    ProLogo Ti saddle

    RaceFace Turbine 35 stem

    Maxxis Minion 2.8 EXO front, Maxxis Rekon 2.6 rear

    30.12lbs with Zipp carbon cage and TIME carbon pedals.

    Really was shooting for just under 30lbs, did not make it.

  30. #30
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    I have a 2017 Canyon Strive CF Race 9.0 I’m about to put on a diet. Spec sheet gave it 12.9kg in OEM spec (28.43lb)

    My wife has just brought a 2017 Bronson 2 CC with a 2018 build kit that is also going on a diet. Haven’t weighed it yet

    Because Natalie is quite light it makes a big difference if her bike is light

    First up for the Bronson will be Carbon wheels with CX-Ray spokes & hope pro 4 hubs are first up. T800/T700 Carbon with 365g rim weight. 26mm internal width


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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by LargeMan View Post
    2018 Giant Reign SX

    Maxxis Minion 2.8 EXO front, Maxxis Rekon 2.6 rear

    30.12lbs with Zipp carbon cage and TIME carbon pedals.

    Really was shooting for just under 30lbs, did not make it.
    That's impressive. The slightly OCD part of me would try find the last part to tip in under 30. You could probably do it easily with tires.

  32. #32
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    Original Canyon Strive Spec:

    MODEL YEAR 2016
    FRAME CANYON Strive CF Med 9.0 Race 2016 colour: factory enduro team, ISCG 05, rear brake 180mm post mount

    REAR SHOCK FOX FACTORY FLOAT X EVOL 200×57 Tune code C236
    FORK FOX FACTORY 36 FLOAT 27,5 170 RC2 KASHIMA 20 TA 1,5T
    HEADSET CANE CREEK 40
    REAR DERAILLEUR X01 X-HORIZON™ Rear Derailleur, 11S
    CHAIN GUIDE MRP 1X V3
    SHIFTERS SRAM X01 TRIGGER, 11S
    BRAKES SRAM GUIDE RSC
    CASSETTE SRAM XG-1180 10-42
    WHEELSET DT SWISS EX 1501 SPLINE
    TYRE Front 650b x 2.4 MAXXIS HIGHROLLER II EXO TR 3C MAXX TERRA 2.3
    TYRE Rear 650b x 2.4 MAXXIS MINION SEMI SLICK 2.3
    CRANKS* RACE FACE NEXT SL DIRECT MOUNT, 11S
    CHAINRINGS 34T raceface cinch direct mount
    BOTTOM BRACKET External bearings BSA thread RACE FACE
    STEM RENTHAL Apex 40mm Stem

    HANDLEBAR RENTHAL FAT BAR CARBON 790mm
    GRIPS ERGON GE1 SLIM
    SADDLE SDG CIRCUIT MTN
    SEAT POST 30.9mm 125mm ROCKSHOX REVERB STEALTH
    PEDALS
    WEIGHT Original specification 12,90KG

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by LargeMan View Post
    2018 Giant Reign SX

    Race Face Next R crank / kept the stock MRP chain guides on

    SRAM XX1 cassette, der and shifter

    Renthal FatBar Carbon 800mm

    ENVE HV60 with 240 hubs

    ProLogo Ti saddle

    RaceFace Turbine 35 stem

    Maxxis Minion 2.8 EXO front, Maxxis Rekon 2.6 rear

    30.12lbs with Zipp carbon cage and TIME carbon pedals.

    Really was shooting for just under 30lbs, did not make it.
    Ti bolts will get you there. Start measuring and go to TorontoCycles.com
    Keep the Country country.

  34. #34
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    An interesting discussion thanks guys.

    Looks like theres 2 build types typically.
    1) Bike park limited climbing set up , robust wheelset/tyres comming in a around 13.2kg 29 pnd typically lightest.

    Or

    2) Climb,decend set up with llighter tyres/wheels for better climbing ability with the sacrifice of some descending ability. 27 pnd 12.2kg being the typically lightest.

    Looks like i'm right in the zone then of light weight, but i have savings to make if i get my wallet out.....

    My wifes bike on the other hand. Pretty much at the pointy end of light weight.


    My bike.
    Rocky mountain slayer
    Fox factory 36 limited climbing set up
    Fox x2 rear
    xt drive train and brakes
    Roval wheels
    Renthal bars,step
    KS 125mm dropper.
    Minion dhf2 2.3
    XTR pedals (cageless)
    13.1 kg, 28.9 pnd

    Wifes bike
    Intense T275
    Enve M60, chris king
    Thomson stem, enve bar
    XX1 drive train
    Thomson 150mm dropper
    Pike
    Cancreek DB Air
    XTR pedals (caged), brakes.
    Highroller 2 2.3
    12.5kg, 27.6pd

    Light weight 160mm + bikes-img_20180422_114432.jpg

  35. #35
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    Those are great looking bikes and nice builds. Looks like your wallet has already done a lot of work . Love the color of the Slayer.
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  36. #36
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    A point that a lot of people don't really discuss is that perhaps there's a weight threshold at which, if you go under it, descending performance suffers?

    I have owned a 30-31 pound 150mm bikes and currently a 35 pound 180mm bike. The lighter bikes, while fun on flatter descents, lose stability at super high speeds and/or gnarly conditions. My heavier bike pulls away from them in those conditions.

    It could be that I'm a big guy (190 pounds during peak riding season) -- but every time I ride a 28-30 pound bike in DH-like conditions I feel a little out of control, because I'm overpowering the bike.
    Dear U.S. Forest Service: Please ban all wilderness in my riding areas.

  37. #37
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    There are certain things a bike like this needs IME, it needs tough enough and wide enough tires. Those usually come around at least 800g. It needs a dropper post for versatility, that is a pound over a bike without. It needs a beefy enough shock, this doesn't have to be a coil, but a reservoir-type air shock at least, like a Monarch+, CCDB Air, DPX2, etc. It needs a 200mm front brake. It needs decent enough rims (doesn't need to be 40mm, but 25mm internal or close to that is not appropriate).

    You'll find guys with lighter builds, but you'll also find a lot of parts that aren't appropriate to that kind of riding. As many here have said, it IS possible to keep the weight down on a modern frame and still have a good riding bike. There are drivetrains that will save a lot of weight and modern carbon frames save at least a good pound over a comparable alloy frame, two at the more extreme end.

    The other big game-changer IMO is tuned suspension. With the Avy stuff I have on both ends, I do not ever "want for" a bigger bike or more suspension. If I go to a big park, like Whistler, then sure, a full DH bike would be more fun, but at my local park and all of my local riding, the bike is great on the descents with the tuned suspension. Suspension quality far outweighs having 20mm more or less travel.

    My RFX is around 29.0 with the Monarch+, more like 30 when I put the coil on it. It's nice having two shocks that I can switch between.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  38. #38
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    ^^^ couldn’t agree more. Jayem articulated it perfectly
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  39. #39
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    2018 Knolly Warden Carbon size large with push 11-6, 2.5 dhf wt aggressor wt rear both in double down with cush core installed fox 36 at 170mm eagle drive train, crabon cranks, bars, wheels. 32.6 lbs hanging from park tools scale. It is my enduro race bike so it hase quite a bit of beef built into the suspension and tires/cushcore.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by LegionX View Post
    Those are great looking bikes and nice builds. Looks like your wallet has already done a lot of work . Love the color of the Slayer.
    Cheers man. My wallet has done about 50% the work you expect. I'm a near new second hand buyer. None the less they are aweseomest bikes i've owned.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by cookieMonster View Post
    A point that a lot of people don't really discuss is that perhaps there's a weight threshold at which, if you go under it, descending performance suffers?

    I have owned a 30-31 pound 150mm bikes and currently a 35 pound 180mm bike. The lighter bikes, while fun on flatter descents, lose stability at super high speeds and/or gnarly conditions. My heavier bike pulls away from them in those conditions.

    It could be that I'm a big guy (190 pounds during peak riding season) -- but every time I ride a 28-30 pound bike in DH-like conditions I feel a little out of control, because I'm overpowering the bike.
    Is weight the reason or is it that fact that the heavier bike has better travel, thicker wall tyres that grip better and better angels for descending?

    I'm of the opposite opinion. All other factors being equal if the bike is lighter it has better descending perfomance. You can muscle it easier, pop the bike float over stuff better. U see no advantage in a heavier bike if you havent gained a suspension, tyre, geoemetry advantage.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    That's impressive. The slightly OCD part of me would try find the last part to tip in under 30. You could probably do it easily with tires.
    Ti bolts will get you there. Start measuring and go to TorontoCycles.com

    Yep, I have a different bashguard coming that will get me there. Not ready to go full weight weenie yet. I am at 238lbs myself! And I love my tire combo for how I ride, but for sure could drop another pound in tire weight.

  43. #43
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    I agree, light always helps. Riding my 31lb V10 vs normal 35lb DH bikes is a revelation. You get to have DH tires and 200+mm suspension but it still tosses around like an enduro bike. The key is not giving anything else up while dropping weight.
    Keep the Country country.

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  4. Downsizing rotors from 185mm/160mm to 160mm/140mm
    By xterrafreak in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-26-2013, 12:03 PM
  5. Decent light weight rotos (160mm)
    By HighLife420 in forum Weight Weenies
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 06-04-2011, 09:59 AM

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