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  1. #1
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    KS LEV Integra??? Where is it?

    Is the ks lev integra out yet? Where can I get one?

  2. #2
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    I just got one in the mail today.
    The LPG

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    I just got one in the mail today.
    Did u but it on ebay

  4. #4
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    Yes. It was only one I could find. Bummer it is broken though. Gotta call KS today about getting it repaired.
    The LPG

  5. #5
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    What was broken on it?

  6. #6
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    The piece in the bottom that holds the cable housing was sheared off where the springs attach. Hope they have parts in stock to repair it.
    The LPG

  7. #7
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    Just saw this in stock at artscyclery. Comes up to $340 with 15% off. Shipping should be free as well.

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    Received a broken one as well....straight from the distributor.
    in Boulder, Colorado, United States - photo by nyesteeze - Pinkbike

  9. #9
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    Damn! That piece needs to be made out of something a little stronger!

  10. #10
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    That is exactly where mine broke. Call Ron at KS. He should have replacement parts by now because I just got mine. They are also aware of the packaging problem and going to beef the part up a bit according to Ron. It is super easy to replace.
    The LPG

  11. #11
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    Has anyone used a KS LEV Integra with a Tallboy 2 Carbon?

    I am trying (in vain) to do so, because the cable housing moves relative to the frame, thru a grommet in the frame, which due to friction between cable housing and grommet, the return springs on the seat post are not strong enough, which causes terrible operation of the seat post, will not stay locked, goes up when it should stay put...just plain sucks.

    Tried 'hollowing out' the grommet, Triflow on grommet/housing, cable with slack, cable without slack...it all ends up not working very well at all.

    Anyone have suggestions that have worked for them?

    Thanks.

  12. #12
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    On my Bronson carbon I zip tied rings around the brake cable going up the frame for the housing to move free inside of them. Also you need to make damn sure you have just the exact amount of housing also adjust the cable about 3mm short of the diagram on the seatpost

  13. #13
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    MonkeyBoy65 did you ever come up with a solution that worked for your Tallboy? I have the same situation with my Solo, have to fight with the damn thing on every ride.

  14. #14
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    Yep, here is what I did with help of Aaronjobe:
    Yes, my KS LEV Integra works now. Here is how I got it to work. I also got some tips from aaronjobe on forum too, didn't have to try everything he said, but will tell you what he told me.

    A LOT of words here, I got detailed help from aaronjobe, trying to return favor.

    The problem: The housing has to move relative to the bottom of the seat post. The lollipop end of the cable does not move at all. The housing pulls CLOSER to the end of the post, which means it has to travel in/out of the frame. But there is a lot of friction on the housing due to grommet, bending it, etc. Thus, when you push button, housing goes INTO frame, seat post drops, but then the 'return springs' on the post are not strong enough to push housing back away from post, back OUT of frame, hence, button stays pushed and seat post sucks.
    1. Take the grommet out of the frame; notice it has the outer lip that touches the frame, then in the center, a membrane. Get a new xacto #11 blade; completely remove membrane so grommet has a clean thru-hole. Do not OMIT the grommet, the carbon fiber is even more 'grabby' on the housing...I tried this, does not work.
    2. Route cable for seat post, etc, set it up exactly like graphic on the post shows. Aaronjob said even less cable sticking out than graphic, about 3mm less. I cannot second this though.
    3. Aaronjobe said pre-bend the provided cable housing to give it the shape it will have on the bike frame, totally agree with this. He also recommended higher-end Jagwire housing, which I think is both easier to bend (more flexible) and possibly smaller outer diameter. The included stuff worked for me, but I think Jagwire would still be better.
    4. Route the brake hose to the frame cable standoffs with zip ties. THEN you will zip tie the post housing TO THE BRAKE HOSE.
    4a. Install the post housing zip ties ABOVE (higher up) than the brake hose zip ties because the looser post housing zip ties will not fall down due to gravity/bumps.
    4b. Notice LOOSER zip ties for post housing, very important, aaronjobe reminded me of this too, and I agreed. The post housing must be free to slide/move relative to the brake hose. Ensure post housing can move up/down thru zip ties.
    5. I originally had noodle below/behind the brake reservoir, it looked better, but aaronjobe told me it should be in front of/above brake. I think instructions say this also, so I agree. I actually got my post to work with the noodle in either position, but in front/above brake I think is better.
    6. Here was my ‘trick’: I think instructions say to start with barrel adjuster all the way screwed in, then to adjust out ALL slack out of cable. I did this originally, and the post would never work. I finally screwed the adjuster all the way back in, resulting in a pretty sloppy feeling button, but with all that slack, it STARTED WORKING PERFECTLY!!! I really believe this is due to a tight cable causing more friction on inside of the housing, reducing housing's ability to slide around on the cable. Once there was more slack = less cable/housing friction = post works.
    7. Cable length on bike should be longer if anything, not shorter. Sneak up on housing length...cut a bit, try again, repeat.
    7a. DO NOT CUT CABLE to final length like instructions say until you are sure it works! I had to install/remove the system about 10-15 times, left the cable long, and only torqued set screw enough to prevent cable slippage, which will partially squash cable strands, so I highly recommend a backup brake cable on-hand just in case. Only after you know the post is working, cut and stow cable end.
    8. Triflow on the housing and grommet I think helps, aaronjobe mentioned this too I think.
    9. Try to be patient....this system with a Tallboy and likely also a Bronson could be a pain in the behind to get right. I tweaked, fiddled, cussed a LOT, tried again, gave up, tried again...then figured out step 6, and then it has been great from then on.

    I was plenty pissed after spending that kind of $$$$$ on that bike, then that kind of $$$ on just about the most expensive post you can get, only to have it totally suck, never stay put, drop without touching the button, etc. Once it works, and you learn how to best use it, it will REALLY change the way you ride that bike. SO much safer/confident on steeps, drops, rocky down-hills.
    The moving part of the tube wiggles just a bit relative to the part in the frame, which I notice when handling/walking the bike/seat, but never notice it during riding. The post has ~150 miles on it so far, wish that number was a lot higher...but it has worked well so far.

    Good luck. I can also send pics if that will help. Let me know.

  15. #15
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    While I appreciate the detail here, I have to say I'm considering returning the (so far unused) Integra I have sitting in the garage. This just seems like a total pain.... and what happens if-when you are unfortunate enough to need to change your seat height by a couple mm, like when changing pedals or shoes? Doesn't is screw the whole fragile system up? Having it depend on movement of the house seems like a bad design.

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBoy650 View Post
    Yep, here is what I did with help of Aaronjobe:
    Yes, my KS LEV Integra works now. Here is how I got it to work. I also got some tips from aaronjobe on forum too, didn't have to try everything he said, but will tell you what he told me.

    A LOT of words here, I got detailed help from aaronjobe, trying to return favor.

    The problem: The housing has to move relative to the bottom of the seat post. The lollipop end of the cable does not move at all. The housing pulls CLOSER to the end of the post, which means it has to travel in/out of the frame. But there is a lot of friction on the housing due to grommet, bending it, etc. Thus, when you push button, housing goes INTO frame, seat post drops, but then the 'return springs' on the post are not strong enough to push housing back away from post, back OUT of frame, hence, button stays pushed and seat post sucks.
    1. Take the grommet out of the frame; notice it has the outer lip that touches the frame, then in the center, a membrane. Get a new xacto #11 blade; completely remove membrane so grommet has a clean thru-hole. Do not OMIT the grommet, the carbon fiber is even more 'grabby' on the housing...I tried this, does not work.
    2. Route cable for seat post, etc, set it up exactly like graphic on the post shows. Aaronjob said even less cable sticking out than graphic, about 3mm less. I cannot second this though.
    3. Aaronjobe said pre-bend the provided cable housing to give it the shape it will have on the bike frame, totally agree with this. He also recommended higher-end Jagwire housing, which I think is both easier to bend (more flexible) and possibly smaller outer diameter. The included stuff worked for me, but I think Jagwire would still be better.
    4. Route the brake hose to the frame cable standoffs with zip ties. THEN you will zip tie the post housing TO THE BRAKE HOSE.
    4a. Install the post housing zip ties ABOVE (higher up) than the brake hose zip ties because the looser post housing zip ties will not fall down due to gravity/bumps.
    4b. Notice LOOSER zip ties for post housing, very important, aaronjobe reminded me of this too, and I agreed. The post housing must be free to slide/move relative to the brake hose. Ensure post housing can move up/down thru zip ties.
    5. I originally had noodle below/behind the brake reservoir, it looked better, but aaronjobe told me it should be in front of/above brake. I think instructions say this also, so I agree. I actually got my post to work with the noodle in either position, but in front/above brake I think is better.
    6. Here was my ‘trick’: I think instructions say to start with barrel adjuster all the way screwed in, then to adjust out ALL slack out of cable. I did this originally, and the post would never work. I finally screwed the adjuster all the way back in, resulting in a pretty sloppy feeling button, but with all that slack, it STARTED WORKING PERFECTLY!!! I really believe this is due to a tight cable causing more friction on inside of the housing, reducing housing's ability to slide around on the cable. Once there was more slack = less cable/housing friction = post works.
    7. Cable length on bike should be longer if anything, not shorter. Sneak up on housing length...cut a bit, try again, repeat.
    7a. DO NOT CUT CABLE to final length like instructions say until you are sure it works! I had to install/remove the system about 10-15 times, left the cable long, and only torqued set screw enough to prevent cable slippage, which will partially squash cable strands, so I highly recommend a backup brake cable on-hand just in case. Only after you know the post is working, cut and stow cable end.
    8. Triflow on the housing and grommet I think helps, aaronjobe mentioned this too I think.
    9. Try to be patient....this system with a Tallboy and likely also a Bronson could be a pain in the behind to get right. I tweaked, fiddled, cussed a LOT, tried again, gave up, tried again...then figured out step 6, and then it has been great from then on.

    I was plenty pissed after spending that kind of $$$$$ on that bike, then that kind of $$$ on just about the most expensive post you can get, only to have it totally suck, never stay put, drop without touching the button, etc. Once it works, and you learn how to best use it, it will REALLY change the way you ride that bike. SO much safer/confident on steeps, drops, rocky down-hills.
    The moving part of the tube wiggles just a bit relative to the part in the frame, which I notice when handling/walking the bike/seat, but never notice it during riding. The post has ~150 miles on it so far, wish that number was a lot higher...but it has worked well so far.

    Good luck. I can also send pics if that will help. Let me know.

  16. #16
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    Yep, I completely understand your point......but once it works, it's so sweet! I cannot really defend the design at all though, I agree, why move the housing when they could have almost as easily moved only the cable, which would totally fix the problems everyone is having...? Not sure what is going to happen when I need to remove the post for any reason...could screw it all up.

    If it helps you decide, one thing I have not commented on is how when I contacted KS with this issue, and I also contacted Santa Cruz...KS never replied at all, not one peep. Santa Cruz on the other hand replied to my email in about 12 hrs, tried to help, but the guy I emailed back/forth with was not familiar with the LEV Integra. He mentioned they have been using the Reverb without issue for a while. For whatever that is worth.... Good luck.

  17. #17
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    Yeah, but would the bike be just as sweet with a nice Thomson on there, even though it doesn't have the internal routing? Maybe it'd be a bit less "clean looking" but I bet it'd ride as well. Don't get me wrong, I loved my Reverb Stealth (until it quit working). I'm just disappointed that KS seems to have screwed up what could have been a great post--and a great alternative to the Reverb--with a horrible actuator design.

  18. #18
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    Thanks for the credit! You can move your post height up or down, I have enough slack that I could raise the post an inch if I needed to. I also have a pretty slick way of cable routing on my Bronson now I will post pics later

  19. #19
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    Would you guys have purchased a regular (non-integra) version of the KS Lev if you could do it over again. I am building up a Spider Comp with Stealth cable routing and after reading this thread, I am thinking maybe the non-integra version is the way to go.
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  20. #20
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    My 2012, external-routed LEV was totally reliable except on really wet/muddy days, so yeah I'd recommend one of those over an Integra.

    After prolonged tweaking I've gotten my Integra working 99% of the time on my Solo. Finding just the right sweet spot for housing length and cable tension took a while but the steps listed by MonkeyBoy above are exactly correct!

  21. #21
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    Thanks. I think I am going to go with the non integra version.
    Quote Originally Posted by deepwat3r View Post
    My 2012, external-routed LEV was totally reliable except on really wet/muddy days, so yeah I'd recommend one of those over an Integra.

    After prolonged tweaking I've gotten my Integra working 99% of the time on my Solo. Finding just the right sweet spot for housing length and cable tension took a while but the steps listed by MonkeyBoy above are exactly correct!
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  22. #22
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    I was able to install a 5" Integra on an 09 Force Carbon without much issue. The hole where the cable goes through is at the bottom of the seat tube, so maybe that makes some difference with respect to how the cable bends. I just followed the installation manual, including the length of the exposed cable that connects to the bottom of the posts, the length to cut, and torque values, especially for the seat post clamp. The seatpost worked fine before and after cutting the cable to the proper length.

  23. #23
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    I had some of these same issues on my 2014 Kona Process 153. It doesn't seem to need to be AS picky as from what I read above. My question is this though. I have it all working well with the exception that when it is extended up all the way there is a little give in it. I haven't really noticed it while riding, but I'm guessing that should happen? Do yours give a little? It's for sure locked out as it's not dropping on me...but it gives about 1/2" when weight is applied. Any thoughts?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikepikespeak.com View Post
    I had some of these same issues on my 2014 Kona Process 153. It doesn't seem to need to be AS picky as from what I read above. My question is this though. I have it all working well with the exception that when it is extended up all the way there is a little give in it. I haven't really noticed it while riding, but I'm guessing that should happen? Do yours give a little? It's for sure locked out as it's not dropping on me...but it gives about 1/2" when weight is applied. Any thoughts?

    I only had this happen as a result of the issues detailed above, housing tension vs. the springs on the actuator. When mine's working, and it's up, there's no give. In your situation, to know for sure, I'd test with the post off the bike or with enough slack on the housing to rule out any actuator issues.

  25. #25
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    That design flaw is completely bewildering to me, particularly since the pre-production prototype they first unveiled didn't have it (second pic down) - KindShock Unveils New LEV Integra Dropper Post, Along With LEV

    If the post is that good, why not wait until it's fully engineered to release it? This flaw is enough for me to say I'll hold off.
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