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  1. #1
    ronbo613
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    KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance

    I've had the KS i900r since it first came out. Aside from a little stiction when I first got it(fixed by removing a bit of bearing material with Scotchbrite), it has worked flawlessly. Can't imagine riding without it.
    I take care of my stuff and have done regular lubrication and maintenance on the seatpost to keep it working smoothly.



    If anyone is interested in how to take care of your KS seatpost, I've posted how to do it HERE. Plenty of photos, should be pretty easy to follow. Complete teardown and maintenance can be done in an hour or two without any special tools.

  2. #2
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    Smashing, really nice guide

  3. #3
    T.W.O.
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    Bookmarked, thanks Ronbo you are the man.

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    Great job Ronbo. I have owned a I900 since they were first came out and recently upgraded to the I950 R. Your guide will help me keeping the post running smoothly for the years to come!

  5. #5
    ronbo613
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    I think the KS seatposts, especially since they came into the adjustable seatpost market early, have proven to be a reasonably priced, good performing piece of gear. The customer support is pretty good as well.
    Even though they are a fairly expensive piece of equipment, I think you get your money's worth. It's worth it to take care of them, especially when it's not that hard to do.

  6. #6
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    Nice guide!

    In the owners manuals for my i950 as well as grease it says to add 20ml of 30wt suspension oil inside the lower tube.....

  7. #7
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    The owners manual is out of date (even the one online, source, Rick the US distrubutor), only supposed to use slick honey (or variant) now, also you will probably find a lack of o-rings (which are mentioned in the owners manual)

    Could build on the OP great guides and make the thread the official KS thread, if someone posts weights, sizes, known issues, quick fixes, etc

  8. #8
    Underskilled
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    nice guide
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  9. #9
    fan of maple syrup
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    Awesome guide Ronbo - thanks.

    Lovin my post to bits. I kept reading folk who had adjustable posts say "Don't know how I went so long without one". Pah, I thought .... learn to position yourself better on your bike and it shouldn't matter. Boy was I wrong. So much more control on steep descents without the saddle in the way. Moving the bike from side to side on turns ... all that stuff. Plus it's seriously the only post out there with an anywhere near decent looking remote lever (got mine on the ODI lock-on Oury grips).

    Alas, it's starting to get a bit sticky after using the crap out of it, so I look forward to giving it a service with Ronbo's guide.

  10. #10
    EDR
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    Alas, it's starting to get a bit sticky after using the crap out of it,
    Check your cable routing/tension as well. Mine starts sticking when the cable changes position too much. It's full housing so it shouldn't matter but it does, at least on my bike. Every time it gets sticky I adjust the tension or move the long-ass cable back in place and it works again like new. ...not saying you don't need to clean/lube it though.

  11. #11
    ronbo613
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    Alas, it's starting to get a bit sticky after using the crap out of it
    If you unscrew the seatpost collar and put a gob of grease in there once in a while, you can prolong the time between full teardown servicing. The grease gets used most up on top by the collar and Du bushing.
    My seatpost was an early model, the grease KS was using was too sticky. Switching to Slickoleum made a big difference. The 8 oz. tub costs about $10 and will last a long time. I use it on my Fox forks as well.
    Check your cable routing/tension as well.
    Use a minimal number of zip ties(I have two, the seatpost cable runs under the top tube) and don't over tighten them and squeeze the cable housing. I keep a spare cable on hand because it gets ruined when the remote lever screw squashes it. Spray some silione spray down the cable housing before you install the new cable. A quick spurt of silicone spray under the seat where the remote lever pushes down on the hydraulic part of the seatpost doesn't hurt either.

  12. #12
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    awesome guide... now i know its safe to remover the clamp by just turning.. Was always wondering if it is was some non-removable pressed fit part that gets some play over time. Thanks.

  13. #13
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    sweet write-up.

    on another note, does anyone know what the issue is that would cause the post to raise when lifting the bike by the saddle? I am 100% sure it is not the cable tension as it still does this when the cable is removed.

    I emailed Rick about a week and a half ago and still haven't heard back. If it isn't a signal of a bigger deal then no worries as I can live with that one flaw.

    Thanks

  14. #14
    EDR
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro
    sweet write-up.

    on another note, does anyone know what the issue is that would cause the post to raise when lifting the bike by the saddle? I am 100% sure it is not the cable tension as it still does this when the cable is removed.

    I emailed Rick about a week and a half ago and still haven't heard back. If it isn't a signal of a bigger deal then no worries as I can live with that one flaw.

    Thanks
    Someone on another thread posted Ricks response to his inquiry about the same thing. Paraphrasing here, but he said 'no big deal'. guess it's normal for some. Search around and I'm sure you can find that post.

  15. #15
    ronbo613
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro
    sweet write-up.

    on another note, does anyone know what the issue is that would cause the post to raise when lifting the bike by the saddle? I am 100% sure it is not the cable tension as it still does this when the cable is removed.

    I emailed Rick about a week and a half ago and still haven't heard back. If it isn't a signal of a bigger deal then no worries as I can live with that one flaw.

    Thanks
    My i900r didn't do it at first, but it does now. As long as it doesn't slip down, I can live with it.

  16. #16
    fan of maple syrup
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    Impatient question due to being separated from my bike at the moment (at work), but is there anything special about the cable? Specifically, mine is too short and doesn't route as well as I'd like (750mm bars, Size L SC Nomad). I recently discovered that routing it the way I like most, if I turn hard left (side remote lever is on) that it pulls the cable and I slide down. Problem easily fixed by re-routing, but I don't like the path it takes and want to keep the lever on the LH grip.

    I seem to remember thinking the remote end looked like a standard shift cable, but the seatpost end had something that slipped into the little lever? Maybe it was grub-screwed on - I can't remember.

    Anyone replaced their cable with a longer one?

  17. #17
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    I don't know as i never bought the normal cable.

    I used a 3 speed speed cable and outer/vbrake to move it. works fine.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  18. #18
    ronbo613
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    Anyone replaced their cable with a longer one?
    It's a standard cable setup with a universal end on the internal cable. You can use regular cable housing that you can get at your local bike shop or opt for the higher tech "lined" cable housings that may work a little smoother and cost a bit more.
    You really need a bike cable cutter to cut cables and cable housings. If you don't have one, have the bike shop cut it. Standard wire cutters do not work very well.

  19. #19
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    How often are you guys doing a full a strip down on these? Is it a case of waiting until it starts to get sluggish or do you do it every month or two?

    Only done about 8 hours riding on mine so far but want to keep on top of the maintenance....

  20. #20
    ronbo613
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    I ride a lot, mainly in dusty and muddy conditions. I try to wipe the dirt and mud off it after riding and usually unscrew the collar and grease it every couple weeks or so, the complete strip down twice a year. The Slickolem/Slick Honey grease really does a good job and the post workings are actually sealed pretty well.

  21. #21
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    Cool, that's a lot less frequent than I was expecting.

  22. #22
    just ride
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    Thank you for sharing!

    I've had mine since Nov 2010 and it's been great since the day I got it. No side-to-side click/play, roughness or getting stuck! I almost have to relearn how to descend without this adjustable post.

    I did however, covered mine with the inner tube since I dont want to get the stancion all scratched up.


  23. #23
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    thank you!!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjay
    Thank you for sharing!

    I've had mine since Nov 2010 and it's been great since the day I got it. No side-to-side click/play, roughness or getting stuck! I almost have to relearn how to descend without this adjustable post.

    I did however, covered mine with the inner tube since I dont want to get the stancion all scratched up.

    That's a great idea! I love cheap and effective quick fixes - what size post and tube are you using in that setup?

  25. #25
    just ride
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    I used 1.5 inner tube.

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    i'm having a problem with my i950r... when on full extension when I seat on the saddle the seatpost drop halfway but when if I tried not putting weight on the saddle it shots back up... and it bounce when I'm seating like I'm on springs... can someone shed a light on my problem. I've only had it for not more than 2 months.

    I only use the brake, so I can accelerate all over again...
    ..:: www.THELOBBY09.com ::..

  27. #27
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    here's a video of my problem.. checked the cable no slack or what so ever.

    <iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/PDET6I0RCSU?hd=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    I only use the brake, so I can accelerate all over again...
    ..:: www.THELOBBY09.com ::..

  28. #28
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    Check the red collar is locked down properly and take the post out and check if the hex nut at the bottom has loosened. If this 2 are done and still problem appear--its probably the internals and have it sent back to be checked.

    Nice inked sleeve

  29. #29
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    Looks Neat

    Quote Originally Posted by Chromagftw
    That's a great idea! I love cheap and effective quick fixes - what size post and tube are you using in that setup?
    Was tempted to try but didnt have any suitable size tubbies lying around then...
    Any resistance when moving it down?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcryan27
    i'm having a problem with my i950r... when on full extension when I seat on the saddle the seatpost drop halfway but when if I tried not putting weight on the saddle it shots back up... and it bounce when I'm seating like I'm on springs... can someone shed a light on my problem. I've only had it for not more than 2 months.
    I am having the same problem. I have used my post for only 4 rides and it is now starting to drop about 0.5" (much less than yours). I can easily push down on the seat and watch it go down ~0.5" when its fully extended. This drives me crazy on my last ride. It did not do this on the first few rides so I think the problem is going to get worse.

    Anyone have any advice on how to fix this?? I don't want a pogo stick seat post!! I want the bike suspension to cushion the bumps, not the post!

    Thanks!
    Chris

  31. #31
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    Very useful share

  32. #32
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    Actually, there is one further step before the post is "fully" dissassembled. From the guide mentioned above, you can see that the inside pipe has a "plunger" inside it (the smaller diameter rod that sticks out the end of the inside shaft). Another useful tidbit of info is that if you know where to look, it is also possible to repressurise the Kindshock at home, allowing you to customise its return speed.

    While our directions are not as clear, or the pics as comprehensive as the excellent guide referred to above, they do prove that the post is completely rebuildable and able to be repressurised at home. (text and pics below cross-posted at: KS i900 FIXED. It is FULLY rebuildable at home.- Mtbr.com

    KS i900 FIXED. It is FULLY rebuildable at home.

    Number 1 son and I pulled the KS i900 apart the other day - and we mean A-P-A-R-T. Separated all 3 pipes (actually 2 are pipes, the other is a "plunger" rod).

    The original motivation was to replace the stupid roller bearing under the red coller (that doesn't roll, as the shaft moves perpendicular to the rollers - der!). Much better to put a brass bushing in there - so out comes the lathe. New bushing in - BUT - 3 hrs of trying to reassemble the inner shafts, spraying oil all over kitchen ceiling, just cannot get it together.

    Then, someone called "PsyCro" over on this thread:

    mentions that he has seen a tiny pin-hole inside one of the indents used to turn an alloy sealing cap. We check it out, and THIS IS THE SECRET!

    Sorry for the lack of step-by-step pics - but we were so excited to get it back together (and so oily) that we just kept going, and don't really feel like pulling it apart again right now. We have labelled the pics as best we could - hope these are helpful.

    Do not listen to those who say the KS i900 is not user serviceable - it is. Works better than it ever did new now that it has a proper bushing, AND we can now tailor the speed of the seat raise because now we know where to pump the air!

    Major props to PsyCro for pointing out the pin-hole - we would never have seen it.

    Directions as follows:
    1. put the circlip into the top of the "middle" tube (the one the seat eventually clamps into)
    2. put the "plunger" into the middle tube and place it at its most extended position. Put the black ring with it's inner and outer o-rings on the outside of this shaft and the alloy cap with the hole in it over the plunger.
    3. fill the middle tube (the one with the plunger in it) to the very top with 5wt oil.
    4. place the alloy cap that buts up against the circlip into the top of the shaft filled with oil, this will seal this chamber.
    5. slide this assembly into the main shaft untill the alloy cap has pushed up against the circlip.
    6. do up the silver alloy cap that has the pinhole in it.
    7. to pressurize the chamber, be imaginative. I used a compressor tip for inflating soccer balls, wrapped some tape around it to seal, and jammed it in the indent with the pin-hole. We put about 120psi in (with the shock pump) but I'm not entirely sure, put in enough so the shaft extends by itself when you press the button on the top cap. (the one near the circlip)
    8. put the rest of the post back together, bearings, lube etc.

    Sorry for the lack of pics, we tried to label things as best we could.
    Now go tear 'em apart! What do you reckon?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  33. #33
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    2 possible reasons for the seat lifting up (but could be others too)

    I have encountered 2 things that can cause the seat to lift if you pull up on it:

    (i) Where the top alloy seat clamp screws into the top of the shaft, you can see where the lever actuates a "pin". That pin is actually a valve that allows oil and air to move from one chamber to another. If that valve is not completely closing, then your seat can lift up,

    (ii) If, for some reason (say a leaky O ring) you have lost some oil from the innermost pipe, then you will not have the correct oil/air ratio to move between the chambers, and that will mean you cannot get a proper "fluid lock" when the lever is released. In other words, air can compress easier than oil, so if the amount of oil is not right, and there is a bit of air in the chamber that should be completely filled with oil, then your seat can lift up.

    The first problem can be solved by checking the operation of the valve in the top of the post. The second problem requires a complete pull-down, and the inner plunger to be removed from the inside shaft, the correct amount of oil put in, and the chamber repressurised. This is a much bigger job, but it is still possible to do at home with a few basic tools.
    Last edited by checkpoint22; 06-03-2011 at 06:02 AM. Reason: spelling

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcryan27 View Post
    i'm having a problem with my i950r... when on full extension when I seat on the saddle the seatpost drop halfway but when if I tried not putting weight on the saddle it shots back up... and it bounce when I'm seating like I'm on springs... can someone shed a light on my problem. I've only had it for not more than 2 months.
    This sounds as though the actuator pin that moves the internal valve to let oil and air move from one chamber to another is stuck in the "open" position.

    Check that your lever is fully releasing, and not binding, other wise the internal valve could still be open just a little (it doesn't take much). If the lever is okay, and the valve is sticking on its own, then a complete dissassemble might be required (see post below with the 2 .pdf pics).

  35. #35
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    hoi checkpoint 22,thanks for your explenation about the i900 i had the problem that when i sit on the seat the post goes down for 3 cm and when i lift my bud he cames right back up.my only problem was that i can get off the top of the main shaft (where the seat is on)so i have to drill a bleeder hole into this top
    so that the air can get out when i put everything toghether and now he works perfectly

  36. #36
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    I am trying to take my KSi950 apart to service it. No matter what I do I cannot take the end cap at the bottom off (clamped in a strap wrench and using needle nose pliers as per the manual, no joy). It just seems to be seized in. It is aluminum and attempting to force it will tear it apart. Any tips?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmorsi View Post
    I am trying to take my KSi950 apart to service it. No matter what I do I cannot take the end cap at the bottom off (clamped in a strap wrench and using needle nose pliers as per the manual, no joy). It just seems to be seized in. It is aluminum and attempting to force it will tear it apart. Any tips?
    You don't need to. Just undo the blue nut and pull everything from the top!

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by nightnerd View Post
    You don't need to. Just undo the blue nut and pull everything from the top!
    Thank you for the tip! I was following the instructions in the manual and when I couldn't unscrew the end cap out, I actually tried pulling it from the top and it wouldn't easily come out, so didn't want to force it. Needed a good pull.

  39. #39
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    Nevermind ... got it loose

    Solution - inserted allen wrench into shaft to hold it so it would not spin.

    Hey,
    When I try to remove this nut :

    it just spins with the shaft and washer. Anyone else have this problem?
    I even tried a little impact drive.

    frustrated.
    Last edited by client_9; 07-22-2011 at 08:09 AM.

  40. #40
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    checkpoint22, thanks for a guide. I've just finished rebuilding my i900 (it had some issues with air in oil chamber).

    I've assembled it in a little bit different way and done few picture, so I'll try to describe the process step by step.



    Hold the assembly with some rag (wrap it entirely) and put your safety glasses/riding goggles on when unscrewing an alloy nut (using o-ring pliers), because it's going to pop pretty hard when the nut come out. Be careful not to kill yourself, not to scratch a shaft or other parts and not to mess your interior with oil



    Clean everything using some parts cleaner (manufacturers usually recommends isopropyl alcohol). Then lubricate rubber seals with 5w suspension oil.



    Put few milliliters of 5w oil in the biggest tube holding it upside down. Pump a lever few times, then while pressing a lever insert the black piston until it holds in place at the bottom. (There's no problem with oil in air chamber, it will work fine, but even small amount of air in oil chamber will cause seatpost to sag, so it would be better to fill everything nicely here). Try not to scratch anything because it will cause leaks.



    Put the mid size tube in until it holds in place. Then fill it with oil to the top.



    While holding a lever pressed, insert the piston with alloy nut on it. No reason to push it entirely right now. Then just screw the alloy nut with o-ring pliers.



    Initial pressure in my post were about 150 psi but 120 also seems to work fine. So pressurize it with shock pump and ball needle with few windings of duct tape.

    And it's so simple. But please be cautious because it is high pressure inside.
    P. S.: Need to say that I haven't tested it on trails yet but at home it works just fine
    Last edited by zazzique; 07-31-2011 at 01:09 PM.

  41. #41
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    i've been using the i950r for about 2 months now. i'm having two problems on the post. first one is, on full compressed, when you hit the switch to extend the post, the post will not go fully extended. it will stop about 1/2 an inch to 3/4 inch before full extension. a bit of slickoleum in the collar will cure the problem but will just be enough (or sometimes not) for one ride. do i have to put slickoleum every time i ride? second problem is, the switch gets stuck. when you press the switch, it does not lock back to the original position. so the post compresses again when you sit down. i still have to manually push back the switch for it to lock in that position. i've sprayed silicone on the switch, the cables and the actuator lever but had no luck.

    is this a sign that i need to service my post already?

  42. #42
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    Don't really have any repair wisdom to share but thought this may interest you KS fanboys. I know I'm very interested.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=830380&postcount=1778

    Guy Ford
    Last edited by Guy.Ford; 08-02-2011 at 03:50 PM.
    #THELEGEND #MAKE****HAPPEN

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyjeys View Post
    i've been using the i950r for about 2 months now. i'm having two problems on the post. first one is, on full compressed, when you hit the switch to extend the post, the post will not go fully extended. it will stop about 1/2 an inch to 3/4 inch before full extension. a bit of slickoleum in the collar will cure the problem but will just be enough (or sometimes not) for one ride. do i have to put slickoleum every time i ride? second problem is, the switch gets stuck. when you press the switch, it does not lock back to the original position. so the post compresses again when you sit down. i still have to manually push back the switch for it to lock in that position. i've sprayed silicone on the switch, the cables and the actuator lever but had no luck.

    is this a sign that i need to service my post already?
    Try backing off your seatpost collar tightness a little, sounds like it's binding a little from being compressed too much. I had similar issues with my post and my wifes, more noticable with the remote version because you're not helping it back up. backing off the collar a bit made me think the post would move, but no issues with either so far.

  44. #44
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    Crazyjays, try the above advice and also loosen the torque on the remote clamp. I get issues like that if I tighten it too much.

    Second thing, I service my bike, forks, etc. but this seems like a LOT of work. How much time and money is it to send the post into KS for a factory rebuild?

  45. #45
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    dmorgs4: i tried backing off the collar a bit on the last few rides but did not have any luck either. any other suggestions?

    mnigro: i'll try to loosed up the bolt on the remote clamp.

    i second that question, how much would it cost for a factory rebuild on KS?

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyjeys View Post
    i've been using the i950r for about 2 months now. i'm having two problems on the post. first one is, on full compressed, when you hit the switch to extend the post, the post will not go fully extended. it will stop about 1/2 an inch to 3/4 inch before full extension. a bit of slickoleum in the collar will cure the problem but will just be enough (or sometimes not) for one ride. do i have to put slickoleum every time i ride? second problem is, the switch gets stuck. when you press the switch, it does not lock back to the original position. so the post compresses again when you sit down. i still have to manually push back the switch for it to lock in that position. i've sprayed silicone on the switch, the cables and the actuator lever but had no luck.

    is this a sign that i need to service my post already?
    Try to add some pressure to that tiny little hole. Maybe it would help.

  47. #47
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    cannot seem to remove the nut and washer from the bottom of the post. if i turn the nut with a socket, it unscrews together with the end cap but i cannot separate the end cap and the nut. any help please?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyjeys View Post


    cannot seem to remove the nut and washer from the bottom of the post. if i turn the nut with a socket, it unscrews together with the end cap but i cannot separate the end cap and the nut. any help please?
    Yep, I had the same exact problem.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by DWill View Post
    Yep, I had the same exact problem.
    It was mentioned above, insert an Allen wrench into one of the holes in the end cap to prevent it from spinning. Could probably use lockring pliers as well.

  50. #50
    TranceX Rider
    Reputation: Onie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    951
    Quick question since i haven't gotten time to peruse other posts...

    My post extends when you lift up if it's in a dropped position. Is that normal? Something wrong with my post or it needs servicing already. Cuz if i remember it right when it was still new (~5mos back) it didn't exhibit such...

    Thanks in advance!
    Quote Originally Posted by jcatienza
    There was no need to scare potential buyers and burn bridges "buddy"
    Tell me now, what's Product testing all bout then?

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