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  1. #1
    ronbo613
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    KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance

    I've had the KS i900r since it first came out. Aside from a little stiction when I first got it(fixed by removing a bit of bearing material with Scotchbrite), it has worked flawlessly. Can't imagine riding without it.
    I take care of my stuff and have done regular lubrication and maintenance on the seatpost to keep it working smoothly.



    If anyone is interested in how to take care of your KS seatpost, I've posted how to do it HERE. Plenty of photos, should be pretty easy to follow. Complete teardown and maintenance can be done in an hour or two without any special tools.

  2. #2
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    Smashing, really nice guide

  3. #3
    T.W.O.
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    Bookmarked, thanks Ronbo you are the man.

  4. #4
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    Great job Ronbo. I have owned a I900 since they were first came out and recently upgraded to the I950 R. Your guide will help me keeping the post running smoothly for the years to come!

  5. #5
    ronbo613
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    I think the KS seatposts, especially since they came into the adjustable seatpost market early, have proven to be a reasonably priced, good performing piece of gear. The customer support is pretty good as well.
    Even though they are a fairly expensive piece of equipment, I think you get your money's worth. It's worth it to take care of them, especially when it's not that hard to do.

  6. #6
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    Nice guide!

    In the owners manuals for my i950 as well as grease it says to add 20ml of 30wt suspension oil inside the lower tube.....

  7. #7
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    The owners manual is out of date (even the one online, source, Rick the US distrubutor), only supposed to use slick honey (or variant) now, also you will probably find a lack of o-rings (which are mentioned in the owners manual)

    Could build on the OP great guides and make the thread the official KS thread, if someone posts weights, sizes, known issues, quick fixes, etc

  8. #8
    Underskilled
    Reputation: CaveGiant's Avatar
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    nice guide
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  9. #9
    fan of maple syrup
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    Awesome guide Ronbo - thanks.

    Lovin my post to bits. I kept reading folk who had adjustable posts say "Don't know how I went so long without one". Pah, I thought .... learn to position yourself better on your bike and it shouldn't matter. Boy was I wrong. So much more control on steep descents without the saddle in the way. Moving the bike from side to side on turns ... all that stuff. Plus it's seriously the only post out there with an anywhere near decent looking remote lever (got mine on the ODI lock-on Oury grips).

    Alas, it's starting to get a bit sticky after using the crap out of it, so I look forward to giving it a service with Ronbo's guide.

  10. #10
    EDR
    Reputation: eatdrinkride's Avatar
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    Alas, it's starting to get a bit sticky after using the crap out of it,
    Check your cable routing/tension as well. Mine starts sticking when the cable changes position too much. It's full housing so it shouldn't matter but it does, at least on my bike. Every time it gets sticky I adjust the tension or move the long-ass cable back in place and it works again like new. ...not saying you don't need to clean/lube it though.

  11. #11
    ronbo613
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    Alas, it's starting to get a bit sticky after using the crap out of it
    If you unscrew the seatpost collar and put a gob of grease in there once in a while, you can prolong the time between full teardown servicing. The grease gets used most up on top by the collar and Du bushing.
    My seatpost was an early model, the grease KS was using was too sticky. Switching to Slickoleum made a big difference. The 8 oz. tub costs about $10 and will last a long time. I use it on my Fox forks as well.
    Check your cable routing/tension as well.
    Use a minimal number of zip ties(I have two, the seatpost cable runs under the top tube) and don't over tighten them and squeeze the cable housing. I keep a spare cable on hand because it gets ruined when the remote lever screw squashes it. Spray some silione spray down the cable housing before you install the new cable. A quick spurt of silicone spray under the seat where the remote lever pushes down on the hydraulic part of the seatpost doesn't hurt either.

  12. #12
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    awesome guide... now i know its safe to remover the clamp by just turning.. Was always wondering if it is was some non-removable pressed fit part that gets some play over time. Thanks.

  13. #13
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    sweet write-up.

    on another note, does anyone know what the issue is that would cause the post to raise when lifting the bike by the saddle? I am 100% sure it is not the cable tension as it still does this when the cable is removed.

    I emailed Rick about a week and a half ago and still haven't heard back. If it isn't a signal of a bigger deal then no worries as I can live with that one flaw.

    Thanks

  14. #14
    EDR
    Reputation: eatdrinkride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro
    sweet write-up.

    on another note, does anyone know what the issue is that would cause the post to raise when lifting the bike by the saddle? I am 100% sure it is not the cable tension as it still does this when the cable is removed.

    I emailed Rick about a week and a half ago and still haven't heard back. If it isn't a signal of a bigger deal then no worries as I can live with that one flaw.

    Thanks
    Someone on another thread posted Ricks response to his inquiry about the same thing. Paraphrasing here, but he said 'no big deal'. guess it's normal for some. Search around and I'm sure you can find that post.

  15. #15
    ronbo613
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro
    sweet write-up.

    on another note, does anyone know what the issue is that would cause the post to raise when lifting the bike by the saddle? I am 100% sure it is not the cable tension as it still does this when the cable is removed.

    I emailed Rick about a week and a half ago and still haven't heard back. If it isn't a signal of a bigger deal then no worries as I can live with that one flaw.

    Thanks
    My i900r didn't do it at first, but it does now. As long as it doesn't slip down, I can live with it.

  16. #16
    fan of maple syrup
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    Impatient question due to being separated from my bike at the moment (at work), but is there anything special about the cable? Specifically, mine is too short and doesn't route as well as I'd like (750mm bars, Size L SC Nomad). I recently discovered that routing it the way I like most, if I turn hard left (side remote lever is on) that it pulls the cable and I slide down. Problem easily fixed by re-routing, but I don't like the path it takes and want to keep the lever on the LH grip.

    I seem to remember thinking the remote end looked like a standard shift cable, but the seatpost end had something that slipped into the little lever? Maybe it was grub-screwed on - I can't remember.

    Anyone replaced their cable with a longer one?

  17. #17
    Underskilled
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    I don't know as i never bought the normal cable.

    I used a 3 speed speed cable and outer/vbrake to move it. works fine.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  18. #18
    ronbo613
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    Anyone replaced their cable with a longer one?
    It's a standard cable setup with a universal end on the internal cable. You can use regular cable housing that you can get at your local bike shop or opt for the higher tech "lined" cable housings that may work a little smoother and cost a bit more.
    You really need a bike cable cutter to cut cables and cable housings. If you don't have one, have the bike shop cut it. Standard wire cutters do not work very well.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
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    How often are you guys doing a full a strip down on these? Is it a case of waiting until it starts to get sluggish or do you do it every month or two?

    Only done about 8 hours riding on mine so far but want to keep on top of the maintenance....

  20. #20
    ronbo613
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    I ride a lot, mainly in dusty and muddy conditions. I try to wipe the dirt and mud off it after riding and usually unscrew the collar and grease it every couple weeks or so, the complete strip down twice a year. The Slickolem/Slick Honey grease really does a good job and the post workings are actually sealed pretty well.

  21. #21
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    Cool, that's a lot less frequent than I was expecting.

  22. #22
    just ride
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    Thank you for sharing!

    I've had mine since Nov 2010 and it's been great since the day I got it. No side-to-side click/play, roughness or getting stuck! I almost have to relearn how to descend without this adjustable post.

    I did however, covered mine with the inner tube since I dont want to get the stancion all scratched up.


  23. #23
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    thank you!!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjay
    Thank you for sharing!

    I've had mine since Nov 2010 and it's been great since the day I got it. No side-to-side click/play, roughness or getting stuck! I almost have to relearn how to descend without this adjustable post.

    I did however, covered mine with the inner tube since I dont want to get the stancion all scratched up.

    That's a great idea! I love cheap and effective quick fixes - what size post and tube are you using in that setup?

  25. #25
    just ride
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    I used 1.5 inner tube.

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