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  1. #101
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    just got mine from repair. My mechanic said that air must have leaked so he pumped it again. I am sure I will be spending another $5 after 3 weeks as this post would act like SH*T again! This post sucks! and that RICK TAYLOR sucks more! DI**H*AD!!!!!

  2. #102
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    LG, did 20 miles ride today, lots of ups and downs, i used the post a lot. no problem today.

  3. #103
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    @BRANKULO- Had the same thing today, rode with my buddy with lots of rock garden. No problems too. I think the leaking or mixing of air and oil happens even if it is just seated at home. That's what happened to mine.

  4. #104
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    how do you store yours, up or down? i am storing mine extended now.

  5. #105
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    I store it the same way you do. fully extended

  6. #106
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    Very nice presentation.

    Here is self-explaining picture of main principles for post operation.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-how-works.jpg  


  7. #107
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    Wow nice presentation! But i think this would be helpless if the post is already suffering from the sagging issue. As per PabloQuintana, once the post started to sag, it will happen again after you rebuild it. So I think the only way you can do is to get rid of it ASAP and buy a new one. I am planning to get the reverb, great reviews on it but i think with the dropper seatposts, it is all about LUCK.. Might as well go back to the fixed seatpost. What you guys think?

  8. #108
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    Here is my experience:

    I have KS i900R for 1,5 years without a single problem. That means around 3.000 km of distance (sorry for metric units) and 70.000 m of elevation gain.

    My nephew has the same model for 2 months and it just blow out. That is the reason why I found your discussion on this forum and found it very useful to solve his problem.

    My conclusion: This kind of posts are fantastic - as long as they work. I would never change it for my old Thomson Elite Seat-back - if not necessary. With time they will become more and more reliable as my piece of equipment already is.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by DareK View Post
    Here is my experience:

    I have KS i900R for 1,5 years without a single problem. That means around 3.000 km of distance (sorry for metric units) and 70.000 m of elevation gain.

    My nephew has the same model for 2 months and it just blow out. That is the reason why I found your discussion on this forum and found it very useful to solve his problem.

    My conclusion: This kind of posts are fantastic - as long as they work. I would never change it for my old Thomson Elite Seat-back - if not necessary. With time they will become more and more reliable as my piece of equipment already is.
    Yes. Mine has worked flawlessly for 14 months until I started riding in wet/muddy conditions, then it started acting up and needed regular service. The actuation arm at the top of the post needs better weather proofing. I have fashioned a seatpost glove out of old inner tubes and it seems to work.

  10. #110
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    Regarding this post, there are 2 possible weak points for malfunctioning:
    - O – Rings everywhere.
    - Head of outer Cylinder, where Inner tube meets under-lever mechanism.

    O-Rings are replaceable.

    I am not sure how to solve the problem with Inner tube. It fits to under-lever mechanism to assure firm “oil column” that guarantee firm post position. When Inner tube should be closed, but actually it allows oil to flow from oil to air chamber (could be just small opening), than this post turned to suspension post.

    Anyone know how inner tube fits to under-lever mechanism?

  11. #111
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    @brankulo - how is your seatpost doing now?

  12. #112
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    had another ride sunday, still no problems

  13. #113
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    My post seems to be sucking air in. Once a ride it starts to not go fully down. If you push it down all the way it pops back up about 20mm. If I unscrew the collar and cycle it the air is released. I then drop the post all the way and screw the collar back on and it's fine the rest of the ride. Anyone else have this? Any suggestions? It's not a huge deal but it would be nice to get it fixed. Thanks

  14. #114
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    took a nasty one 2 days ago and scratched the stanchion on my supernatural... havent even had it a month!

    are the scratches going to chinger-up the seals inside the post and create a **** seal? that is my main concern.

    i remember seeing a post some time back on the suspension forum about fixing a scratched fork stanchion by filling it with superglue and sanding it down with a superfine wet/dry sandpaper. not sure if these are bad enough to necessitate such a fix.

    btw- i cant believe i waited so long to get this thing! probably the most significant part upgrade ive ever experienced outside of going hardtail->fs. its especially amazing for the stuff i ride in the winter (sedona) which has tons and tons of short and technical ups and downs.

    i did seem to notice the tiniest of "clunks" in the post before the crash... my bike has a mystery bit of play that i havent been able to pinpoint yet so im not sure if it is that or the post... time will tell is suppose.

    anyhow... what do ya'll think about the scratches?

    Last edited by happy_ending; 01-24-2012 at 11:50 AM.

  15. #115
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    sand it down with fine sandpaper. just light enuf to take off any burrings it has now.

    From the looks of it I don't think u even need to fill it back. I still have an old Ks 900 from the 1st generation with the scratched stanchion problem, it goes all around the stanchion and most are just about the entire length of the travel.. its deeper than what i can see compared to your pics but no sharp edges-- still works, just the aesthetics is not there.

  16. #116
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    uggggg... add me to the list of folks with malfunctioning posts. brand new supernatural, too.... i thought these "internals" issue were solved with this generation... think again!

    so, for starters, my post has ALWAYS pulled out when i pick it up by the seat. from the day i installed it... never thought much about it because it always returns to whatever position i had it locked into. but perhaps it was/is a symptom of larger problems inside...

    now it wont extend all the way up when unweighted. its coming up about 1.5" short of full extension. i can then pull it the rest of the way up but as soon as i let go of the seat it sinks back down that 1.5". took the collar off and cleaned old grease off and re-applied but that did nothing.

    to make matters worse (because i can live with the above problem by moving the post up in the seat tube to make up the 1.5") it also sinks maybe a 1/4" additionally when i re-weight it after extending it to any point in its travel.

    lastly, now when i pick the bike up by the seat, the post still extends out but doesnt return back to where it was locked before i picked it up (which it previously did as i mentioned above).

    WTF... not stoked at all. totally had a giant bonah for this thing as the trails i ride in the winter are perfect for adjustable posts. damn!

    fired off an email to ron@kssuspension.com as well as the auto-message on their site. i think ill make the call as well.

    ive ridden this thing 7-8 times total. if they step-up and either replace the internals that clearly arent working or replace it altogether i can let it slide... we shall see.

  17. #117
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    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-how-works2.jpg  


  18. #118
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    Thanks for sharing these tips. Very useful!

    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.
    Great tips. Also it would be cool to thread some kind of valve there to make rebuild and tuning much easier and not so messy. Maybe someone have an idea?

  20. #120
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    That's how I solved my problem too. I drilled holes on the red bottom cap to let the air pressure out that was building up in the lower chamber. It made a huge difference. It now goes down easier and comes up faster and more consistently. I like the foam ring to cover the holes. I will have to do that too.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post
    Great tips. Also it would be cool to thread some kind of valve there to make rebuild and tuning much easier and not so messy. Maybe someone have an idea?
    Ya, I agree that a threaded valve of some sort would make the entire process much smoother. Thing is, there is such little space on that nut for one. I think what KS should have done was create a channel in the piston shaft connecting a standard valve on the threaded end of the shaft to a port right below the piston head. (btw, thanks for posting your pictured rebuild--would have been lost without it)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-how-works3.jpg  


  22. #122
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    follow-up to my post above... i shipped it out last wed (1/25), KS received it on 1/27 and i got it back yesterday, 2/1. impressive turn around to say the least... hopefully they actually did something!

    will update after a few rides...

  23. #123
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Hey happy_ending, I've got mine in a similar turnaround. As you might've read previously I tried to fix it to no avail. Sent it back and Rick got my back. I have finally today used it for more than two continuous hours without it failing. Just rock solid. Will continue keeping ya'll updated if anything changes. I'm loving it now! I put my Specialized Command Post to rest for a while, and have to admit the infinite adjustment on the KS rocks compared to the three preset positions on the Command Post.

    Cheers!

    P

  24. #124
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    So here's an interesting thing with my Dropzone remote... When it goes down, I can hear the air pushing through the frame, and seems to come out somewhere near the headtube. I've had it about 2 weeks, and still getting used to it. I got some slickoleum, which seems to make it work a bit smoother. I do find that after it's been down for a while (about 1 inch for most of my riding), it takes a bump down to get it to come back up. I'm guessing the pressure in the post must be equalizing a bit. But it does come back up after a little tap down. So far, I'm liking it. Although I do ride it about 1 inch down most of the time, but raise it up for longer climbs. Really helps. But I don't usually drop it much more than 1 or 2 inches, even on gnarly descents. I find with the saddle really low, I can't steer the bike as well. I could probably be fine with 75 or 100mm of travel rather than the 125mm that mine has. But guess too much is better than too little.

  25. #125
    Give 'er, eh?!
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    And thanks to Ronbo613 for his info on maintenance. Nice to see how everything comes apart - feel totally comfortable about doing basic maintenance.

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