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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onie View Post
    Quick question since i haven't gotten time to peruse other posts...

    My post extends when you lift up if it's in a dropped position. Is that normal? Something wrong with my post or it needs servicing already. Cuz if i remember it right when it was still new (~5mos back) it didn't exhibit such...

    Thanks in advance!
    mine does the same thing and I've read about others doing it too. don't think it is supposed to d that but it appears to be fairly common. i emailed rick about it but never heard back from him. my thoughts are that these things are selling well enough that they need more than one guy handling warranty issues / in inquiries.

  2. #52
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    It's not supposed to be like that since the start it didn't exhibit such thing. Well, at least, it's not going down on its own when ridden. I'm sorry to hear about that guy. They should really look into expanding their staff so they can get back at matters like these.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcatienza
    There was no need to scare potential buyers and burn bridges "buddy"
    Tell me now, what's Product testing all bout then?

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onie View Post
    Quick question since i haven't gotten time to peruse other posts...

    My post extends when you lift up if it's in a dropped position. Is that normal? Something wrong with my post or it needs servicing already. Cuz if i remember it right when it was still new (~5mos back) it didn't exhibit such...

    Thanks in advance!
    I think this is a common issue with KS posts (and others, I suspect?). Mine did not do it out of the box, but now extends about 3/4 of an inch when I pull the bike up by the saddle. I just did the periodic clean-up, maintenance and greasing and now it doesn't extend when doing that, but I think it's only a matter of time.

    Other than that, solid piece of kit. Doesn't like the mud too much though (remedied by fashioning a seatpost "condom" with plastic wrap/old inner tube around the clamp area where the little arm presses down on the actuation mechanism...this is where the muck renders the actuation mechanism useless).

  4. #54
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    I've got a DIY contraption as well to ward off mud & stuff... but could you kindly post pics of your version... who knows yours much better... Thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by jcatienza
    There was no need to scare potential buyers and burn bridges "buddy"
    Tell me now, what's Product testing all bout then?

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onie View Post
    I've got a DIY contraption as well to ward off mud & stuff... but could you kindly post pics of your version... who knows yours much better... Thanks!
    I have taken it off to do work on the post, but here is a picture that shows most of it. I can try to take better pictures when I get home tonight.



    So it's basically a section of inner tube stretched over the post. It is roomy enough to allow the post to compress and extend unhindered. The inner tube goes all the way to the lower part of the collar, with a small vertical cut cut where the little red actuation arm is. I add some plastic wrap around the arm on the top part of the seatpost collar to prevent the mud from getting where the actuation mechanism is. The upper seatpost is also protected from scratches by the inner tube.

    Here it is in the extended position (sans the plastic wrap bit).

    Looks ugly but works fairly well.

  6. #56
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    KS Condom.. looks like a good idea to help keep the muck out!
    Nice innovation hmorsi
    .

  7. #57
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    My KSi900r has just started moving up and down a centimetre or so when I sit on it in the locked position. It seems to do it at full extension, but not so much when it is compressed. I've just undone the locking collar and cleaned and re-greased, but the problem remains. Cable tension appears fine. Do I need to do a full trip down?

  8. #58
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreednya View Post
    My KSi900r has just started moving up and down a centimetre or so when I sit on it in the locked position. It seems to do it at full extension, but not so much when it is compressed. I've just undone the locking collar and cleaned and re-greased, but the problem remains. Cable tension appears fine. Do I need to do a full trip down?
    dreednya I would send it back for a rebuild. Mine had the same issue and was not fixed by overhauling it. Apparently is a seal inside going wrong.

    Don't waste more time.

    P

  9. #59
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    Thanks pabloquintana. I'll do that today.

    It is not too much of a pain, but on long AM rides with a lot of climbing my knees do start to ache towards the end.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Solution - inserted allen wrench into shaft to hold it so it would not spin.

    Hey,
    When I try to remove this nut :

    it just spins with the shaft and washer. Anyone else have this problem?
    I even tried a little impact drive.

    frustrated.
    This is the second i900r second post I've had, and I haven't been able to undo the red washer on either one. The first post was collapsing right out of the box. Any attempts to undo the red washer by me or the LBS failed. It was sent back and rebuilt or replaced. That solved the collapsing problem, but a couple of months later the second post has started to stop short of expanding completely. I've got a strap wrench and lockring pliers but it wont move. The first post resisted a vise and two blokes working together. IMO this is way too difficult for a procedure which should be routine user maintenance.

    Any ideas for an alternative approach?

  11. #61
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    The red washer does not need to be removed. Only the blue nut does. Just undo the blue nut, unscrew the top collar and push/pull out the shaft from the top.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by nightnerd View Post
    The red washer does not need to be removed. Only the blue nut does. Just undo the blue nut, unscrew the top collar and push/pull out the shaft from the top.
    +1 rep for you, thanks mate. I must admit I read the reference to this earlier but didn't connect the dots until you explained it just for me. I guess I fall into the special category.

    Just lubing up the inner post didn't work for me, in fact the post stops a full inch short now. I used super slick grease which is what I got from the enduro guys for my fork. Should still be okay for this application though?

    Will do a full strip down and re-pressurize the post later to see if that improves things.

  13. #63
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by pabloquintana View Post
    Mine had the same issue and was not fixed by overhauling it. Apparently is a seal inside going wrong.
    Update: The post came back finally. Installed it today, and looks solid. Let's see if the KS guys fixed it with some new parts. Despite that I feel much more comfortable now that it is possible to overhaul it at home.

    Update 2: The post is dead again after 2 hours of riding and a small 2 foot drop where I happened to hit the seat. Full rebuild on its way. Does any one know if thicker oil like 10W or 15W can make a difference as of how much force will make air to go into oil chamber?
    Last edited by pabloquintana; 09-18-2011 at 06:44 PM.

  14. #64
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    thanks for the pics, mate! I wonder if this is a good option too...?
    Quote Originally Posted by jcatienza
    There was no need to scare potential buyers and burn bridges "buddy"
    Tell me now, what's Product testing all bout then?

  15. #65
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post
    checkpoint22, thanks for a guide. I've just finished rebuilding my i900 (it had some issues with air in oil chamber).

    P. S.: Need to say that I haven't tested it on trails yet but at home it works just fine
    Hey zazzique, can you share an update after your rebuild? Did it work ok?

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by pabloquintana View Post
    Hey zazzique, can you share an update after your rebuild? Did it work ok?
    It works ok, but I had to add some more pressure, probably because my brass guides are bent or scratched and sometimes it didn't reach full extension by third of inch or so.

  17. #67
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post
    It works ok, but I had to add some more pressure, probably because my brass guides are bent or scratched and sometimes it didn't reach full extension by third of inch or so.
    Do you have an idea of what causes the air to get past the piston into the oil chamber?

    I suspect is with hits some how the piston moves.

    Any thoughts?

  18. #68
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Want to share my experience with rebuilding the post.

    Got it apart and a loud pop occurred after finishing un-threading the silver cap! The oil came out and I was able to see the whole thingy inside.

    After cleaning everything I put some 10W suspension fluid in there and pressurized the post with a soccer ball inflator adapter. Worked like a charm!

    The post looks good again, but I am wondering if adding less air pressure will prevent the air to sneak through the seals. I know the price to pay is the extension speed or even the extension length of the post. Both things I can live with.

    If that doesn't fix the issue, Rick Taylor said it could be a tolerance issue with the seals and the IFP (not sure what IFP is but it has to be the outer or inner tube). In that case I will try changing the o-rings to get tighter fit between the tubes and the piston.

    Will report back, but let me know if someone else has tried any of these things to prevent air leaking the piston to the oil chamber.

    Happy riding.

    P

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by pabloquintana View Post
    Want to share my experience with rebuilding the post.

    Got it apart and a loud pop occurred after finishing un-threading the silver cap! The oil came out and I was able to see the whole thingy inside.

    After cleaning everything I put some 10W suspension fluid in there and pressurized the post with a soccer ball inflator adapter. Worked like a charm!

    The post looks good again, but I am wondering if adding less air pressure will prevent the air to sneak through the seals. I know the price to pay is the extension speed or even the extension length of the post. Both things I can live with.

    If that doesn't fix the issue, Rick Taylor said it could be a tolerance issue with the seals and the IFP (not sure what IFP is but it has to be the outer or inner tube). In that case I will try changing the o-rings to get tighter fit between the tubes and the piston.

    Will report back, but let me know if someone else has tried any of these things to prevent air leaking the piston to the oil chamber.

    Happy riding.

    P
    I think it's not air from air chamber because pressures in both chambers are theoretically even (Because of floating piston. And so pressure doesn't matter). Maybe this air came through upper valve, when seatpost was pulled out by hand and vacuum in chamber sucked some air from outside.

  20. #70
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post
    I think it's not air from air chamber because pressures in both chambers are theoretically even (Because of floating piston. And so pressure doesn't matter). Maybe this air came through upper valve, when seatpost was pulled out by hand and vacuum in chamber sucked some air from outside.
    Zazzique, good observation. There is a moment of pressure imbalance where the air chamber is higher than the oil chamber: when the lever is actuated after compressing the post. If the force required to expand the shaft is higher (like sitting down) than the piston force exerted by the compressed air, then a leak in the piston seals will cause air to get past into the oil.

    I would like to check for leaks in the upper valve. Any ideas?

    P
    Last edited by pabloquintana; 09-20-2011 at 01:48 PM.

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by pabloquintana View Post
    Zazzique, good observation. There is a moment of pressure imbalance where the air chamber is higher than the oil chamber: when the lever is actuated after compressing the post. If the force required to expand the shaft is higher (like sitting down) than the piston force exerted by the compressed air, then a leak in the piston seals will cause air to get past into the oil.

    I would like to check for leaks in the upper valve. Any ideas?

    P
    I don't know how to test it for leaks without need of reassembly. Maybe if you got this issue by hitting a seat the problem indeed is in floating piston o-rings rather then valve.

  22. #72
    catracho in aztecaland
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    ... and if we just ... Reporting back #1

    Here is my report after having overhauled the post and added less air pressure and having used a 10W suspension oil, instead of the recommended 2.5W.

    Bummer! The post started sagging again after 2 hours riding.

    I opened the chamber and found that the IFP (Internal Floating Piston?) has some scratch marks, just like the larger chamber internal surface. Relating to Rick's email, where he said that the IFP might have tolerance issues, I decided to look closer.

    Check the attached images.

    The IFP with scratch marks.pdf

    So, what I will do next is to try to reduce the size of that outer diameter, so there is no interference between the IFP outer surface and the internal surface of the chamber. I guess this will let the o-ring to actually do his work preventing air leaks.

    I hope the chamber surface is not scratched enough to prevent seal from the piston.

    Will report back.

    P

  23. #73
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    after 1 hr of riding my new i950 r it stopped working. not sure what happened as it was after i lowered if after climb. now it will not hold the position. it will always extend all the way up, and when i put pressure on it it would go all the way down. it is not cable problem as i detached cable ant it would still act the same. is this something that rebuilding using guide from post#1 will fix or do i need to send it to ks?
    or is there something else i could do to fix?

  24. #74
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    It's better to contact KS if it's under warranty.

  25. #75
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    i contacted rick, he had me send it over. didnt want to miss next weekends ride thats why i was asking if i could fix it myself. any idea how long does the process take usually?

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