Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 101 to 150 of 176
  1. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    544
    just got mine from repair. My mechanic said that air must have leaked so he pumped it again. I am sure I will be spending another $5 after 3 weeks as this post would act like SH*T again! This post sucks! and that RICK TAYLOR sucks more! DI**H*AD!!!!!

  2. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brankulo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,409
    LG, did 20 miles ride today, lots of ups and downs, i used the post a lot. no problem today.

  3. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    544
    @BRANKULO- Had the same thing today, rode with my buddy with lots of rock garden. No problems too. I think the leaking or mixing of air and oil happens even if it is just seated at home. That's what happened to mine.

  4. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brankulo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,409
    how do you store yours, up or down? i am storing mine extended now.

  5. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    544
    I store it the same way you do. fully extended

  6. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3
    Very nice presentation.

    Here is self-explaining picture of main principles for post operation.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-how-works.jpg  


  7. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    544
    Wow nice presentation! But i think this would be helpless if the post is already suffering from the sagging issue. As per PabloQuintana, once the post started to sag, it will happen again after you rebuild it. So I think the only way you can do is to get rid of it ASAP and buy a new one. I am planning to get the reverb, great reviews on it but i think with the dropper seatposts, it is all about LUCK.. Might as well go back to the fixed seatpost. What you guys think?

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3
    Here is my experience:

    I have KS i900R for 1,5 years without a single problem. That means around 3.000 km of distance (sorry for metric units) and 70.000 m of elevation gain.

    My nephew has the same model for 2 months and it just blow out. That is the reason why I found your discussion on this forum and found it very useful to solve his problem.

    My conclusion: This kind of posts are fantastic - as long as they work. I would never change it for my old Thomson Elite Seat-back - if not necessary. With time they will become more and more reliable as my piece of equipment already is.

  9. #109
    Undercaffienated
    Reputation: hmorsi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    298
    Quote Originally Posted by DareK View Post
    Here is my experience:

    I have KS i900R for 1,5 years without a single problem. That means around 3.000 km of distance (sorry for metric units) and 70.000 m of elevation gain.

    My nephew has the same model for 2 months and it just blow out. That is the reason why I found your discussion on this forum and found it very useful to solve his problem.

    My conclusion: This kind of posts are fantastic - as long as they work. I would never change it for my old Thomson Elite Seat-back - if not necessary. With time they will become more and more reliable as my piece of equipment already is.
    Yes. Mine has worked flawlessly for 14 months until I started riding in wet/muddy conditions, then it started acting up and needed regular service. The actuation arm at the top of the post needs better weather proofing. I have fashioned a seatpost glove out of old inner tubes and it seems to work.

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3
    Regarding this post, there are 2 possible weak points for malfunctioning:
    - O – Rings everywhere.
    - Head of outer Cylinder, where Inner tube meets under-lever mechanism.

    O-Rings are replaceable.

    I am not sure how to solve the problem with Inner tube. It fits to under-lever mechanism to assure firm “oil column” that guarantee firm post position. When Inner tube should be closed, but actually it allows oil to flow from oil to air chamber (could be just small opening), than this post turned to suspension post.

    Anyone know how inner tube fits to under-lever mechanism?

  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    544
    @brankulo - how is your seatpost doing now?

  12. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brankulo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,409
    had another ride sunday, still no problems

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimarin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    460
    My post seems to be sucking air in. Once a ride it starts to not go fully down. If you push it down all the way it pops back up about 20mm. If I unscrew the collar and cycle it the air is released. I then drop the post all the way and screw the collar back on and it's fine the rest of the ride. Anyone else have this? Any suggestions? It's not a huge deal but it would be nice to get it fixed. Thanks

  14. #114
    shred my gnar
    Reputation: happy_ending's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    603
    took a nasty one 2 days ago and scratched the stanchion on my supernatural... havent even had it a month!

    are the scratches going to chinger-up the seals inside the post and create a **** seal? that is my main concern.

    i remember seeing a post some time back on the suspension forum about fixing a scratched fork stanchion by filling it with superglue and sanding it down with a superfine wet/dry sandpaper. not sure if these are bad enough to necessitate such a fix.

    btw- i cant believe i waited so long to get this thing! probably the most significant part upgrade ive ever experienced outside of going hardtail->fs. its especially amazing for the stuff i ride in the winter (sedona) which has tons and tons of short and technical ups and downs.

    i did seem to notice the tiniest of "clunks" in the post before the crash... my bike has a mystery bit of play that i havent been able to pinpoint yet so im not sure if it is that or the post... time will tell is suppose.

    anyhow... what do ya'll think about the scratches?

    Last edited by happy_ending; 01-24-2012 at 12:50 PM.

  15. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: anvil_den's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    953
    sand it down with fine sandpaper. just light enuf to take off any burrings it has now.

    From the looks of it I don't think u even need to fill it back. I still have an old Ks 900 from the 1st generation with the scratched stanchion problem, it goes all around the stanchion and most are just about the entire length of the travel.. its deeper than what i can see compared to your pics but no sharp edges-- still works, just the aesthetics is not there.

  16. #116
    shred my gnar
    Reputation: happy_ending's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    603
    uggggg... add me to the list of folks with malfunctioning posts. brand new supernatural, too.... i thought these "internals" issue were solved with this generation... think again!

    so, for starters, my post has ALWAYS pulled out when i pick it up by the seat. from the day i installed it... never thought much about it because it always returns to whatever position i had it locked into. but perhaps it was/is a symptom of larger problems inside...

    now it wont extend all the way up when unweighted. its coming up about 1.5" short of full extension. i can then pull it the rest of the way up but as soon as i let go of the seat it sinks back down that 1.5". took the collar off and cleaned old grease off and re-applied but that did nothing.

    to make matters worse (because i can live with the above problem by moving the post up in the seat tube to make up the 1.5") it also sinks maybe a 1/4" additionally when i re-weight it after extending it to any point in its travel.

    lastly, now when i pick the bike up by the seat, the post still extends out but doesnt return back to where it was locked before i picked it up (which it previously did as i mentioned above).

    WTF... not stoked at all. totally had a giant bonah for this thing as the trails i ride in the winter are perfect for adjustable posts. damn!

    fired off an email to ron@kssuspension.com as well as the auto-message on their site. i think ill make the call as well.

    ive ridden this thing 7-8 times total. if they step-up and either replace the internals that clearly arent working or replace it altogether i can let it slide... we shall see.

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    112
    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-how-works2.jpg  


  18. #118
    Undercaffienated
    Reputation: hmorsi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    298
    Thanks for sharing these tips. Very useful!

    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.

  19. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.
    Great tips. Also it would be cool to thread some kind of valve there to make rebuild and tuning much easier and not so messy. Maybe someone have an idea?

  20. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimarin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    460
    That's how I solved my problem too. I drilled holes on the red bottom cap to let the air pressure out that was building up in the lower chamber. It made a huge difference. It now goes down easier and comes up faster and more consistently. I like the foam ring to cover the holes. I will have to do that too.

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    112
    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post
    Great tips. Also it would be cool to thread some kind of valve there to make rebuild and tuning much easier and not so messy. Maybe someone have an idea?
    Ya, I agree that a threaded valve of some sort would make the entire process much smoother. Thing is, there is such little space on that nut for one. I think what KS should have done was create a channel in the piston shaft connecting a standard valve on the threaded end of the shaft to a port right below the piston head. (btw, thanks for posting your pictured rebuild--would have been lost without it)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-how-works3.jpg  


  22. #122
    shred my gnar
    Reputation: happy_ending's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    603
    follow-up to my post above... i shipped it out last wed (1/25), KS received it on 1/27 and i got it back yesterday, 2/1. impressive turn around to say the least... hopefully they actually did something!

    will update after a few rides...

  23. #123
    catracho in aztecaland
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    147
    Hey happy_ending, I've got mine in a similar turnaround. As you might've read previously I tried to fix it to no avail. Sent it back and Rick got my back. I have finally today used it for more than two continuous hours without it failing. Just rock solid. Will continue keeping ya'll updated if anything changes. I'm loving it now! I put my Specialized Command Post to rest for a while, and have to admit the infinite adjustment on the KS rocks compared to the three preset positions on the Command Post.

    Cheers!

    P

  24. #124
    Give 'er, eh?!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    15
    So here's an interesting thing with my Dropzone remote... When it goes down, I can hear the air pushing through the frame, and seems to come out somewhere near the headtube. I've had it about 2 weeks, and still getting used to it. I got some slickoleum, which seems to make it work a bit smoother. I do find that after it's been down for a while (about 1 inch for most of my riding), it takes a bump down to get it to come back up. I'm guessing the pressure in the post must be equalizing a bit. But it does come back up after a little tap down. So far, I'm liking it. Although I do ride it about 1 inch down most of the time, but raise it up for longer climbs. Really helps. But I don't usually drop it much more than 1 or 2 inches, even on gnarly descents. I find with the saddle really low, I can't steer the bike as well. I could probably be fine with 75 or 100mm of travel rather than the 125mm that mine has. But guess too much is better than too little.

  25. #125
    Give 'er, eh?!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    15
    And thanks to Ronbo613 for his info on maintenance. Nice to see how everything comes apart - feel totally comfortable about doing basic maintenance.

  26. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    9

    Tip how to wrap the coated tubes

    First off all i washed with some cook degreaser the coated parts and then I wraped the cylinders with some old tubes stripes , the rubber hold the coated parts in place when diassembling the cartridge,i clamped it in a vise , be care not to overtorque it.
    And thank you all for the posts, they saved me ...i thought i had lost my KS supernatural, but after reading the tips i hope i can reborn it!!
    Last edited by tonyalves; 02-10-2012 at 07:36 PM. Reason: found the solution at another post

  27. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    9
    Me too...

  28. #128
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brankulo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,409
    the pressure is normal, check out this thread for more info

  29. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    102
    4 rides on a brand new KS i950r and complete failure. Became a suspension post. Sent it back 2/4. Waiting..... Was nice while it lasted.

  30. #130
    catracho in aztecaland
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    147
    Quick follow-up post. Four rides with jumps and long climbs and still going strong after last rebuild from KS USA. Rick, this thing is rocking!

    P

  31. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    9

    KS Fixed

    Just to let all you guys know that i got the KS seatpost fixed this weekend, normal ride and it is Ok until now. I will inform if have new issues.

  32. #132
    RHRF!
    Reputation: titusbro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,275

    Yee Haw!

    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.
    My symptom was the post not extending the final 10mm (#3) and the only way it would finish extending is if I loosened the red top cap more than halfway out.

    I completed steps B and D (only drilled 2 small holes opposite each other) and VOILA!

    The post extends completely with the red top cap finger-tightened all the down!

    Many thanks to 'angular momentum' for all the tips!
    "The secret of joy is the mastery of pain." (Anaïs Nin)

  33. #133
    Mr. Knowitall
    Reputation: hssp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    852

    Bonking ... not feelin' well Fix didn't work with i950 :(

    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post
    Initial pressure in my post were about 150 psi but 120 also seems to work fine. So pressurize it with shock pump and ball needle with few windings of duct tape.

    And it's so simple. But please be cautious because it is high pressure inside.
    P. S.: Need to say that I haven't tested it on trails yet but at home it works just fine
    Didn't work with my i950... Need some more oompf to fully extend, and I hoped some more pressure would help out. Any ideas?

  34. #134
    catracho in aztecaland
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    147
    Update, my post still going strong after two months. I'm loving it!


    Update 2 on March 31st: My post is rocking! Thanks Rick for taking care.

  35. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    102
    Update on mine. LBS just got the post back. It is 3/1. Sent it in 2/4. Hope it is solid now. I'll keep you updated.

  36. #136
    ang
    ang is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    32
    subscribed

  37. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jazzanova's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,585

    Ks lev

    Does anybody know if the LEV has the same internals as the 950R?

  38. #138
    ban
    ban is online now
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    1,408
    I'm having a problem with my 1 month old KS 950 seatpost and it's it gets very sticky or stuck when the seatpost it's fully down, I'm 100% sure it's the silver DU bushing it's just below the red cap, is it fine if I sand a little the inner face of the DU bushing or it will work properly with the time??

  39. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bilirubin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    410
    Thanks for this. Just got a KS i950 and am book marking for future reference.

  40. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    Ya, I agree that a threaded valve of some sort would make the entire process much smoother. Thing is, there is such little space on that nut for one. I think what KS should have done was create a channel in the piston shaft connecting a standard valve on the threaded end of the shaft to a port right below the piston head. (btw, thanks for posting your pictured rebuild--would have been lost without it)
    This is the system Reverb is using, I think is muck cleener and also easy to reach the val to eventually try different air pressure

  41. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    33

    KS Lev

    Quote Originally Posted by DareK View Post
    Very nice presentation.

    Here is self-explaining picture of main principles for post operation.
    Very interesting.
    I’m curious to know how the valve is actuated in the new KS LEV adjust. seat post being in a static position on the main mat, from the pictures / video it seems that a cable is going down inside the fix tube?

  42. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bilirubin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    410
    Just did my first ride with my KS seat post. LOVE IT.

  43. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    6
    This tread really isnpiring me, thank you guys.

  44. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    3

    Help needed with reassembly

    I'm rebuilding my seatpost to try to fix some problems (vertical play and doesn't extend all the way), but I'm stuck trying to reassemble it.

    I'm trying to follow zazzique's instructions.
    I pushed the black piston/ring to the bottom.of the biggest tube (at first it was stuck somewhere in the middle of the biggest tube when I pulled out the mid tube), but I can't push the mid tube all the way down. It won't go any further than shown in the attached picture.

    I guess it should go through the black ring and is stuck there somehow?

    The black ring is stuck at the bottom so I can't take it out and thread it over the middle tube either.
    I guess I could reach it from the other end if I could unscrew the part where the seat is attached, but I can't seem to loosen it.

    Any help would be very much appreciated as I'm running out of ideas here.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-20120504_001640.jpg  


  45. #145
    catracho in aztecaland
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    147
    Quote Originally Posted by murmeldjur View Post
    I'm rebuilding my seatpost to try to fix some problems (vertical play and doesn't extend all the way), but I'm stuck trying to reassemble it.

    I'm trying to follow zazzique's instructions.
    I pushed the black piston/ring to the bottom.of the biggest tube (at first it was stuck somewhere in the middle of the biggest tube when I pulled out the mid tube), but I can't push the mid tube all the way down. It won't go any further than shown in the attached picture.

    I guess it should go through the black ring and is stuck there somehow?

    The black ring is stuck at the bottom so I can't take it out and thread it over the middle tube either.
    I guess I could reach it from the other end if I could unscrew the part where the seat is attached, but I can't seem to loosen it.

    Any help would be very much appreciated as I'm running out of ideas here.
    Well, the mid tube will not go any further than that, but for sure needs to be fully seated and gone through the IFP. It shouldn't be a problem to continue assembly as it is now, but if you want to get the IFP out no matter what, I suggest you pour oil into the mid tube (maybe not completely filled) and then put the piston rod into the mid tube. While pressing the lever push the rod. That should force the oil between the mid tube and the outer tube and push the IFP in your direction (or out the open end of the large tube). Then you can simply pull the mid tube out and you will have the IFP stuck in it.


  46. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    3
    Thanks for the reply pabloquintana.

    In this picture it looks like the mid tube is lower than in my picture? It seems like it has to go lower than I got it in order to fasten the alloy nut?

    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post


    I guess the problem is that I can't get the mid tube through the IFP. When I manage to get the mid tube in the center of the big tube I can feel it drop down a little bit, but I can't get it seated there even if I push hard. Is there much force needed to get the mid tube through the IFP?

    As I can't get the mid tube seated I can't get the IFP out this way either. When I pour oil in the mid tube and press the lever, I can't push the rod down because the oil has nowhere to go. If I don't fill the mid tube completely the mid tube just seem to come loose when I push the rod down, and the oil pours out in the big tube.

    It's hard to see down the tube, but it looks to me like the IFP is only sticking up a little bit and in the middle of the IFP there seems to be a circular piece of metal that is almost as big as the inside of the IFP. Do I have to push the mid tube through this tiny gap between the IFP and that piece of metal? In the middle of that piece of metal there is another circular piece of metal that rises when I push the lever.

  47. #147
    catracho in aztecaland
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    147
    Quote Originally Posted by murmeldjur View Post
    Thanks for the reply pabloquintana.

    In this picture it looks like the mid tube is lower than in my picture? It seems like it has to go lower than I got it in order to fasten the alloy nut?



    I guess the problem is that I can't get the mid tube through the IFP. When I manage to get the mid tube in the center of the big tube I can feel it drop down a little bit, but I can't get it seated there even if I push hard. Is there much force needed to get the mid tube through the IFP?

    As I can't get the mid tube seated I can't get the IFP out this way either. When I pour oil in the mid tube and press the lever, I can't push the rod down because the oil has nowhere to go. If I don't fill the mid tube completely the mid tube just seem to come loose when I push the rod down, and the oil pours out in the big tube.

    It's hard to see down the tube, but it looks to me like the IFP is only sticking up a little bit and in the middle of the IFP there seems to be a circular piece of metal that is almost as big as the inside of the IFP. Do I have to push the mid tube through this tiny gap between the IFP and that piece of metal? In the middle of that piece of metal there is another circular piece of metal that rises when I push the lever.
    Push hard my friend. That piece of metal sticking up is kind of the valve. You should feel that the lever is not having its whole travel. You should seat that piece of metal.

    P

  48. #148
    JustGettinStarted
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    2
    Are these adjustable seat post worth all the time and money it seems everyone is having to spend getting them to work?

  49. #149
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    29
    im stuck in removing the nut on the bottom of the post. the red cap always comes with the nut and i was not able to remove it. i just squeezed in some grease. any suggestion?

  50. #150
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by dhoby View Post
    im stuck in removing the nut on the bottom of the post. the red cap always comes with the nut and i was not able to remove it. i just squeezed in some grease. any suggestion?
    From previous posts:

    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    It was mentioned above, insert an Allen wrench into one of the holes in the end cap to prevent it from spinning. Could probably use lockring pliers as well.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •