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  1. #101
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    just got mine from repair. My mechanic said that air must have leaked so he pumped it again. I am sure I will be spending another $5 after 3 weeks as this post would act like SH*T again! This post sucks! and that RICK TAYLOR sucks more! DI**H*AD!!!!!

  2. #102
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    LG, did 20 miles ride today, lots of ups and downs, i used the post a lot. no problem today.

  3. #103
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    @BRANKULO- Had the same thing today, rode with my buddy with lots of rock garden. No problems too. I think the leaking or mixing of air and oil happens even if it is just seated at home. That's what happened to mine.

  4. #104
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    how do you store yours, up or down? i am storing mine extended now.

  5. #105
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    I store it the same way you do. fully extended

  6. #106
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    Very nice presentation.

    Here is self-explaining picture of main principles for post operation.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-how-works.jpg  


  7. #107
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    Wow nice presentation! But i think this would be helpless if the post is already suffering from the sagging issue. As per PabloQuintana, once the post started to sag, it will happen again after you rebuild it. So I think the only way you can do is to get rid of it ASAP and buy a new one. I am planning to get the reverb, great reviews on it but i think with the dropper seatposts, it is all about LUCK.. Might as well go back to the fixed seatpost. What you guys think?

  8. #108
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    Here is my experience:

    I have KS i900R for 1,5 years without a single problem. That means around 3.000 km of distance (sorry for metric units) and 70.000 m of elevation gain.

    My nephew has the same model for 2 months and it just blow out. That is the reason why I found your discussion on this forum and found it very useful to solve his problem.

    My conclusion: This kind of posts are fantastic - as long as they work. I would never change it for my old Thomson Elite Seat-back - if not necessary. With time they will become more and more reliable as my piece of equipment already is.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by DareK View Post
    Here is my experience:

    I have KS i900R for 1,5 years without a single problem. That means around 3.000 km of distance (sorry for metric units) and 70.000 m of elevation gain.

    My nephew has the same model for 2 months and it just blow out. That is the reason why I found your discussion on this forum and found it very useful to solve his problem.

    My conclusion: This kind of posts are fantastic - as long as they work. I would never change it for my old Thomson Elite Seat-back - if not necessary. With time they will become more and more reliable as my piece of equipment already is.
    Yes. Mine has worked flawlessly for 14 months until I started riding in wet/muddy conditions, then it started acting up and needed regular service. The actuation arm at the top of the post needs better weather proofing. I have fashioned a seatpost glove out of old inner tubes and it seems to work.

  10. #110
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    Regarding this post, there are 2 possible weak points for malfunctioning:
    - O – Rings everywhere.
    - Head of outer Cylinder, where Inner tube meets under-lever mechanism.

    O-Rings are replaceable.

    I am not sure how to solve the problem with Inner tube. It fits to under-lever mechanism to assure firm “oil column” that guarantee firm post position. When Inner tube should be closed, but actually it allows oil to flow from oil to air chamber (could be just small opening), than this post turned to suspension post.

    Anyone know how inner tube fits to under-lever mechanism?

  11. #111
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    @brankulo - how is your seatpost doing now?

  12. #112
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    had another ride sunday, still no problems

  13. #113
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    My post seems to be sucking air in. Once a ride it starts to not go fully down. If you push it down all the way it pops back up about 20mm. If I unscrew the collar and cycle it the air is released. I then drop the post all the way and screw the collar back on and it's fine the rest of the ride. Anyone else have this? Any suggestions? It's not a huge deal but it would be nice to get it fixed. Thanks

  14. #114
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    took a nasty one 2 days ago and scratched the stanchion on my supernatural... havent even had it a month!

    are the scratches going to chinger-up the seals inside the post and create a **** seal? that is my main concern.

    i remember seeing a post some time back on the suspension forum about fixing a scratched fork stanchion by filling it with superglue and sanding it down with a superfine wet/dry sandpaper. not sure if these are bad enough to necessitate such a fix.

    btw- i cant believe i waited so long to get this thing! probably the most significant part upgrade ive ever experienced outside of going hardtail->fs. its especially amazing for the stuff i ride in the winter (sedona) which has tons and tons of short and technical ups and downs.

    i did seem to notice the tiniest of "clunks" in the post before the crash... my bike has a mystery bit of play that i havent been able to pinpoint yet so im not sure if it is that or the post... time will tell is suppose.

    anyhow... what do ya'll think about the scratches?

    Last edited by happy_ending; 01-24-2012 at 12:50 PM.

  15. #115
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    sand it down with fine sandpaper. just light enuf to take off any burrings it has now.

    From the looks of it I don't think u even need to fill it back. I still have an old Ks 900 from the 1st generation with the scratched stanchion problem, it goes all around the stanchion and most are just about the entire length of the travel.. its deeper than what i can see compared to your pics but no sharp edges-- still works, just the aesthetics is not there.

  16. #116
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    uggggg... add me to the list of folks with malfunctioning posts. brand new supernatural, too.... i thought these "internals" issue were solved with this generation... think again!

    so, for starters, my post has ALWAYS pulled out when i pick it up by the seat. from the day i installed it... never thought much about it because it always returns to whatever position i had it locked into. but perhaps it was/is a symptom of larger problems inside...

    now it wont extend all the way up when unweighted. its coming up about 1.5" short of full extension. i can then pull it the rest of the way up but as soon as i let go of the seat it sinks back down that 1.5". took the collar off and cleaned old grease off and re-applied but that did nothing.

    to make matters worse (because i can live with the above problem by moving the post up in the seat tube to make up the 1.5") it also sinks maybe a 1/4" additionally when i re-weight it after extending it to any point in its travel.

    lastly, now when i pick the bike up by the seat, the post still extends out but doesnt return back to where it was locked before i picked it up (which it previously did as i mentioned above).

    WTF... not stoked at all. totally had a giant bonah for this thing as the trails i ride in the winter are perfect for adjustable posts. damn!

    fired off an email to ron@kssuspension.com as well as the auto-message on their site. i think ill make the call as well.

    ive ridden this thing 7-8 times total. if they step-up and either replace the internals that clearly arent working or replace it altogether i can let it slide... we shall see.

  17. #117
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    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-how-works2.jpg  


  18. #118
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    Thanks for sharing these tips. Very useful!

    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.
    Great tips. Also it would be cool to thread some kind of valve there to make rebuild and tuning much easier and not so messy. Maybe someone have an idea?

  20. #120
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    That's how I solved my problem too. I drilled holes on the red bottom cap to let the air pressure out that was building up in the lower chamber. It made a huge difference. It now goes down easier and comes up faster and more consistently. I like the foam ring to cover the holes. I will have to do that too.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post
    Great tips. Also it would be cool to thread some kind of valve there to make rebuild and tuning much easier and not so messy. Maybe someone have an idea?
    Ya, I agree that a threaded valve of some sort would make the entire process much smoother. Thing is, there is such little space on that nut for one. I think what KS should have done was create a channel in the piston shaft connecting a standard valve on the threaded end of the shaft to a port right below the piston head. (btw, thanks for posting your pictured rebuild--would have been lost without it)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-how-works3.jpg  


  22. #122
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    follow-up to my post above... i shipped it out last wed (1/25), KS received it on 1/27 and i got it back yesterday, 2/1. impressive turn around to say the least... hopefully they actually did something!

    will update after a few rides...

  23. #123
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Hey happy_ending, I've got mine in a similar turnaround. As you might've read previously I tried to fix it to no avail. Sent it back and Rick got my back. I have finally today used it for more than two continuous hours without it failing. Just rock solid. Will continue keeping ya'll updated if anything changes. I'm loving it now! I put my Specialized Command Post to rest for a while, and have to admit the infinite adjustment on the KS rocks compared to the three preset positions on the Command Post.

    Cheers!

    P

  24. #124
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    So here's an interesting thing with my Dropzone remote... When it goes down, I can hear the air pushing through the frame, and seems to come out somewhere near the headtube. I've had it about 2 weeks, and still getting used to it. I got some slickoleum, which seems to make it work a bit smoother. I do find that after it's been down for a while (about 1 inch for most of my riding), it takes a bump down to get it to come back up. I'm guessing the pressure in the post must be equalizing a bit. But it does come back up after a little tap down. So far, I'm liking it. Although I do ride it about 1 inch down most of the time, but raise it up for longer climbs. Really helps. But I don't usually drop it much more than 1 or 2 inches, even on gnarly descents. I find with the saddle really low, I can't steer the bike as well. I could probably be fine with 75 or 100mm of travel rather than the 125mm that mine has. But guess too much is better than too little.

  25. #125
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    And thanks to Ronbo613 for his info on maintenance. Nice to see how everything comes apart - feel totally comfortable about doing basic maintenance.

  26. #126
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    Tip how to wrap the coated tubes

    First off all i washed with some cook degreaser the coated parts and then I wraped the cylinders with some old tubes stripes , the rubber hold the coated parts in place when diassembling the cartridge,i clamped it in a vise , be care not to overtorque it.
    And thank you all for the posts, they saved me ...i thought i had lost my KS supernatural, but after reading the tips i hope i can reborn it!!
    Last edited by tonyalves; 02-10-2012 at 07:36 PM. Reason: found the solution at another post

  27. #127
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    Me too...

  28. #128
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    the pressure is normal, check out this thread for more info

  29. #129
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    4 rides on a brand new KS i950r and complete failure. Became a suspension post. Sent it back 2/4. Waiting..... Was nice while it lasted.

  30. #130
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quick follow-up post. Four rides with jumps and long climbs and still going strong after last rebuild from KS USA. Rick, this thing is rocking!

    P

  31. #131
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    KS Fixed

    Just to let all you guys know that i got the KS seatpost fixed this weekend, normal ride and it is Ok until now. I will inform if have new issues.

  32. #132
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    Yee Haw!

    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    I recently did a full rebuild of my i900 thanks to zazziques pictorial (post #19). The problems I had been experiencing that were fixed were:

    1. ~5mm vertical play when sitting down
    2. extension too slow
    3. Sometimes would not extend the last 10mm
    4. post extension when lifting bike by the seat.
    5. Resistance to compressing the seat down in the last few inch.

    I followed zazzique's pictorial with a few modifications:

    A. ~140 psi was not enough to get the post to extend all the way, nor fast enough. Upped the pressure to 200 psi to address this, now post extends much faster; no ill-effects noted due to higher pressure.

    B. Also to address the full extension issue, I noticed that the aluminum bushing under the red top cap had a lot of stiction when sliding on shaft manually, even while well greased. I took some material off the bushing material with some fine grit sand paper; bushing slides much more effortlessly but is still tight on the shaft.

    C. As many have already suggested, a lot of our problems with the post stems from the IFP not doing it's job properly. In particular, it's seal against the outer shaft is extremely tight and stictiony. I thought it would be wise to not only get some quality grease (rock n roll super slick or slick honey) on the seal itself, but also in the air chamber as well. I mixed some grease and shock oil in the air chamber hoping to coat both surfaces that the IFP sees in operation (the inside surface of the outer shaft, and the outside of the inner shaft).

    D. Symptom #5 is due to air in the post (not the main air chamber) getting trapped and having no where to go. I drilled 4 small holes in the red anodized nut at the bottom of the post to allow this air to bleed out when compressing the post. Covered the holes with disk of foam soaked in grease to prevent contamination ingress through these holes.

    Here's a schematic borrowed from dereK.
    My symptom was the post not extending the final 10mm (#3) and the only way it would finish extending is if I loosened the red top cap more than halfway out.

    I completed steps B and D (only drilled 2 small holes opposite each other) and VOILA!

    The post extends completely with the red top cap finger-tightened all the down!

    Many thanks to 'angular momentum' for all the tips!
    "The secret of joy is the mastery of pain." (Anaïs Nin)

  33. #133
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well Fix didn't work with i950 :(

    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post
    Initial pressure in my post were about 150 psi but 120 also seems to work fine. So pressurize it with shock pump and ball needle with few windings of duct tape.

    And it's so simple. But please be cautious because it is high pressure inside.
    P. S.: Need to say that I haven't tested it on trails yet but at home it works just fine
    Didn't work with my i950... Need some more oompf to fully extend, and I hoped some more pressure would help out. Any ideas?

  34. #134
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Update, my post still going strong after two months. I'm loving it!


    Update 2 on March 31st: My post is rocking! Thanks Rick for taking care.

  35. #135
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    Update on mine. LBS just got the post back. It is 3/1. Sent it in 2/4. Hope it is solid now. I'll keep you updated.

  36. #136
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  37. #137
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    Ks lev

    Does anybody know if the LEV has the same internals as the 950R?

  38. #138
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    I'm having a problem with my 1 month old KS 950 seatpost and it's it gets very sticky or stuck when the seatpost it's fully down, I'm 100% sure it's the silver DU bushing it's just below the red cap, is it fine if I sand a little the inner face of the DU bushing or it will work properly with the time??

  39. #139
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    Thanks for this. Just got a KS i950 and am book marking for future reference.

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by angular momentum View Post
    Ya, I agree that a threaded valve of some sort would make the entire process much smoother. Thing is, there is such little space on that nut for one. I think what KS should have done was create a channel in the piston shaft connecting a standard valve on the threaded end of the shaft to a port right below the piston head. (btw, thanks for posting your pictured rebuild--would have been lost without it)
    This is the system Reverb is using, I think is muck cleener and also easy to reach the val to eventually try different air pressure

  41. #141
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    KS Lev

    Quote Originally Posted by DareK View Post
    Very nice presentation.

    Here is self-explaining picture of main principles for post operation.
    Very interesting.
    I’m curious to know how the valve is actuated in the new KS LEV adjust. seat post being in a static position on the main mat, from the pictures / video it seems that a cable is going down inside the fix tube?

  42. #142
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    Just did my first ride with my KS seat post. LOVE IT.

  43. #143
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    This tread really isnpiring me, thank you guys.

  44. #144
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    Help needed with reassembly

    I'm rebuilding my seatpost to try to fix some problems (vertical play and doesn't extend all the way), but I'm stuck trying to reassemble it.

    I'm trying to follow zazzique's instructions.
    I pushed the black piston/ring to the bottom.of the biggest tube (at first it was stuck somewhere in the middle of the biggest tube when I pulled out the mid tube), but I can't push the mid tube all the way down. It won't go any further than shown in the attached picture.

    I guess it should go through the black ring and is stuck there somehow?

    The black ring is stuck at the bottom so I can't take it out and thread it over the middle tube either.
    I guess I could reach it from the other end if I could unscrew the part where the seat is attached, but I can't seem to loosen it.

    Any help would be very much appreciated as I'm running out of ideas here.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-20120504_001640.jpg  


  45. #145
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by murmeldjur View Post
    I'm rebuilding my seatpost to try to fix some problems (vertical play and doesn't extend all the way), but I'm stuck trying to reassemble it.

    I'm trying to follow zazzique's instructions.
    I pushed the black piston/ring to the bottom.of the biggest tube (at first it was stuck somewhere in the middle of the biggest tube when I pulled out the mid tube), but I can't push the mid tube all the way down. It won't go any further than shown in the attached picture.

    I guess it should go through the black ring and is stuck there somehow?

    The black ring is stuck at the bottom so I can't take it out and thread it over the middle tube either.
    I guess I could reach it from the other end if I could unscrew the part where the seat is attached, but I can't seem to loosen it.

    Any help would be very much appreciated as I'm running out of ideas here.
    Well, the mid tube will not go any further than that, but for sure needs to be fully seated and gone through the IFP. It shouldn't be a problem to continue assembly as it is now, but if you want to get the IFP out no matter what, I suggest you pour oil into the mid tube (maybe not completely filled) and then put the piston rod into the mid tube. While pressing the lever push the rod. That should force the oil between the mid tube and the outer tube and push the IFP in your direction (or out the open end of the large tube). Then you can simply pull the mid tube out and you will have the IFP stuck in it.


  46. #146
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    Thanks for the reply pabloquintana.

    In this picture it looks like the mid tube is lower than in my picture? It seems like it has to go lower than I got it in order to fasten the alloy nut?

    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post


    I guess the problem is that I can't get the mid tube through the IFP. When I manage to get the mid tube in the center of the big tube I can feel it drop down a little bit, but I can't get it seated there even if I push hard. Is there much force needed to get the mid tube through the IFP?

    As I can't get the mid tube seated I can't get the IFP out this way either. When I pour oil in the mid tube and press the lever, I can't push the rod down because the oil has nowhere to go. If I don't fill the mid tube completely the mid tube just seem to come loose when I push the rod down, and the oil pours out in the big tube.

    It's hard to see down the tube, but it looks to me like the IFP is only sticking up a little bit and in the middle of the IFP there seems to be a circular piece of metal that is almost as big as the inside of the IFP. Do I have to push the mid tube through this tiny gap between the IFP and that piece of metal? In the middle of that piece of metal there is another circular piece of metal that rises when I push the lever.

  47. #147
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by murmeldjur View Post
    Thanks for the reply pabloquintana.

    In this picture it looks like the mid tube is lower than in my picture? It seems like it has to go lower than I got it in order to fasten the alloy nut?



    I guess the problem is that I can't get the mid tube through the IFP. When I manage to get the mid tube in the center of the big tube I can feel it drop down a little bit, but I can't get it seated there even if I push hard. Is there much force needed to get the mid tube through the IFP?

    As I can't get the mid tube seated I can't get the IFP out this way either. When I pour oil in the mid tube and press the lever, I can't push the rod down because the oil has nowhere to go. If I don't fill the mid tube completely the mid tube just seem to come loose when I push the rod down, and the oil pours out in the big tube.

    It's hard to see down the tube, but it looks to me like the IFP is only sticking up a little bit and in the middle of the IFP there seems to be a circular piece of metal that is almost as big as the inside of the IFP. Do I have to push the mid tube through this tiny gap between the IFP and that piece of metal? In the middle of that piece of metal there is another circular piece of metal that rises when I push the lever.
    Push hard my friend. That piece of metal sticking up is kind of the valve. You should feel that the lever is not having its whole travel. You should seat that piece of metal.

    P

  48. #148
    JustGettinStarted
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    Are these adjustable seat post worth all the time and money it seems everyone is having to spend getting them to work?

  49. #149
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    im stuck in removing the nut on the bottom of the post. the red cap always comes with the nut and i was not able to remove it. i just squeezed in some grease. any suggestion?

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhoby View Post
    im stuck in removing the nut on the bottom of the post. the red cap always comes with the nut and i was not able to remove it. i just squeezed in some grease. any suggestion?
    From previous posts:

    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    It was mentioned above, insert an Allen wrench into one of the holes in the end cap to prevent it from spinning. Could probably use lockring pliers as well.

  51. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobiaracer View Post
    Are these adjustable seat post worth all the time and money it seems everyone is having to spend getting them to work?
    Absolutely! These guys are trying to fix unfixable issues - they had some runs where the bushings/seals were not within tolerances causing all the headaches. SEND IT BACK and get the right parts (what I did) and PROBLEM SOLVED. Now I just have to occasionally pack slick honey under the cap and that's it! 2 seasons and going strong with no taking apart/maintenance!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  52. #152
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    DU bush not sitting flush.

    Hi Guys,

    I recently got a KS i900 seatpost 2nd hand for a steal. The post running up to the seat clam does have some scoring from the old roller bearings, but from what I have read this should not stop the post from working (perhaprs just not make it as slick as it should be). I've replaced the bearing, brass guides and the DU bush. The post now works again

    The issue I'm having is that the DU bush does not sit flush with the main black outer seat post, there is about a 5mm gap. As a result the red cap does not screw down all the way & when the post is fully compressed the seat clamp reaches the red cap (and seal), which is not ideal. Has anyone else had this issue and is there a way to remedy it? I've checked & made sure that the bearing is fully seated. Apart from that the post is operational, but I'm not comfortable using the post with the bush not sitting 100% flush.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-ks-i900_img-20120515-00053.jpg  

    Last edited by Super_mil; 05-17-2012 at 04:18 AM. Reason: Edit to add Title

  53. #153
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    Hey All, I think my 30.9 post is blown out. It is sinking 1.5" like like a suspension post would. So it comes up to the correct height, but then when I sit on it with any weight what so ever if drifts down. Is there any home repair I can do for this?

    Meanwhile I had sent my 27.2 version off because it was doing the same thing, plus it had a lot of side to side movement after 2years. Finally the post came just came back after like 2 months, and the sinking if fixed, but it still has the side by side movement! I think they must have missed it because you only notice the substantial side to side play when the saddle is installed. Is there a way I can repair either of these problems myself? I now have two posts that don't work correctly!

    I actually have a 3rd, a 31.6 KS post too, but no bike for that one!

  54. #154
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegallery View Post
    Hey All, I think my 30.9 post is blown out. It is sinking 1.5" like like a suspension post would. So it comes up to the correct height, but then when I sit on it with any weight what so ever if drifts down. Is there any home repair I can do for this?

    Meanwhile I had sent my 27.2 version off because it was doing the same thing, plus it had a lot of side to side movement after 2years. Finally the post came just came back after like 2 months, and the sinking if fixed, but it still has the side by side movement! I think they must have missed it because you only notice the substantial side to side play when the saddle is installed. Is there a way I can repair either of these problems myself? I now have two posts that don't work correctly!

    I actually have a 3rd, a 31.6 KS post too, but no bike for that one!
    Send them back to Rick and make sure they fix 'em. No chance you will fix them by yourself.

    Been there, done that.

    P

  55. #155
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    Thanks, Rick has been great but they didn't have the parts for the 27.2 and it meant I didn't see it for 2 months. Meanwhile it's still usable so I'm reluctant to send it back because I can't find any others in the meantime. I have no choice with the 30.9 I guess, but I was hoping...

  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by zazzique View Post
    From previous posts:
    same problem happened to me, no luck on the allen wrench. here's what i did:
    i did not remove my saddle to have leverage and tried to tightened the blue nut a little bit more , then loosen it again... try that over and over again eventually you can loosen the blue nut or even the red cap. but sometimes all you need is the blue nut to remove the shaft from the body

  57. #157
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    I have a problem with my KS Dropzone. It will go all the way down but then it creeps up about 1.5-2 cm. Is there a quiq fix for this or should I send it back to the reseller?

  58. #158
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    I have a little bit of verticle and lateral play, my bolts are all tight enough. any thoughts?

  59. #159
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    KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance

    Play in the seat or in the post?

  60. #160
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    pumping the things up

    When rebuilding these things in my opinion by far the most difficult part is getting the air back into them. Last night I had an epiphany (not an ellsworth). This is probably dangerous, you have no idea what pressure you put in but my is it easy to pressurise the post. With the bent needle, some heat shrink and being able to hold the needle in the hole easily (no flexy hose) I was able to pressurise the post first go. It had too much pressure, was difficult to compress and returned like a rocket so I bled a little gas out by turning out the silver cap you put the gas in through. It's working fantastically now, probably still a little firm to push down but return speed is great and the top out thud very reassuring. It's a CO2 can that you pump up tires with.
    KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-ks-inflator.jpg

  61. #161
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    Any help?

    Quote Originally Posted by ehigh View Post
    I have a little bit of verticle and lateral play, my bolts are all tight enough. any thoughts?
    Mine has started to do this as well. Has anyone fixed this issue on its own or is it something you have to send in for service?

  62. #162
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    I also posted in the LEV thread before seeing this post...

    Don't want to steal this thread but... I've been trying to get a part: the DU bushing for a 31.6 supernatural and the local distributors don't have it. I'm in Canada if that counts. I damaged the bushing after it fell off my workbench and spent some time on the floor... the thin bushing with the teflon is scrap now... If anyone has a spare or knows where there is one (for real!), please let me know.

    Also, I just bought a new 27.2 supernatural for my other bike and the remote is a lot harder to push/activate than my 31.6. There is nothing wrong with the cable and housing front to back, I checked and double-checked. I don't know if there is a solution to this issue.

    Thanks,

    Johnnydrz

  63. #163
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    KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance

    Quote Originally Posted by jdcatnau View Post
    Mine has started to do this as well. Has anyone fixed this issue on its own or is it something you have to send in for service?
    For what it's worth, I rode my bike yesterday and half way through my 12 mile ride the play went away. I checked this morning and still no play. Maybe it has to do with the way I was storing it (hanging on my garage wall by the front wheel with the seat post compressed)? Last night I left the post it the extended position leaning against the wall.

  64. #164
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    Hi! I made the service as seen on your thread but I can not find where to buy that specific valve to put air in.

  65. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yetii23 View Post
    Hi! I made the service as seen on your thread but I can not find where to buy that specific valve to put air in.
    And also can not find which the one hole is,the service I made was to put grease as seen at the marks at photo's.

  66. #166
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    Air valve

    Quote Originally Posted by deanos View Post
    When rebuilding these things in my opinion by far the most difficult part is getting the air back into them. Last night I had an epiphany (not an ellsworth). This is probably dangerous, you have no idea what pressure you put in but my is it easy to pressurise the post. With the bent needle, some heat shrink and being able to hold the needle in the hole easily (no flexy hose) I was able to pressurise the post first go. It had too much pressure, was difficult to compress and returned like a rocket so I bled a little gas out by turning out the silver cap you put the gas in through. It's working fantastically now, probably still a little firm to push down but return speed is great and the top out thud very reassuring. It's a CO2 can that you pump up tires with.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ks inflator.jpg 
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    can you please tell we're you bought that valve?thanks a,lot!

  67. #167
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    Hello, my dropzone has become very stiff 1,5 cm from the top position and stops there.
    I tried to increase the air pressure but I had no luck because the air stucks into the pump and does't pass through the small pinhole. After some posts of a forum-member I noticed that the seatpost works fine when the top red cup is completely unscrewed. But when I screwed it even one turn, the problem rises again!!
    What should I do?
    Do you believe that the trick with the two holes under the bottom red cup is the solution?
    Why is happening now and not when I bought it?
    Ιs there a possibility to create a bigger problem if I drill the two holes?

  68. #168
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    Anyone used a spring under the seat lever to help return it to locked position?, mine keeps sticking. New cable and used a mud lover cable outer to try to prolong it life.
    Rolling & Tumbling

  69. #169
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    I have the same problem, any response yet?
    It seems as though the Dropzone pressure is not able to be pumped up, although it has the same little hole referred to in other models.

    Please someone correct me if I am wrong? I would desperately like to add some more pressure.

  70. #170
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    I do exactly that too!

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barkingmad View Post
    I have the same problem, any response yet?
    It seems as though the Dropzone pressure is not able to be pumped up, although it has the same little hole referred to in other models.

    Please someone correct me if I am wrong? I would desperately like to add some more pressure.
    Hello, read this posts
    KS i900 FIXED. It is FULLY rebuildable at home.

  72. #172
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    Thanks, I still want to know how that valve works?
    I can't get air into mine

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barkingmad View Post
    Thanks, I still want to know how that valve works?
    I can't get air into mine
    Ι couldn't get air to my valve too, but the problem wasn't the air. The problem was the dirt and grease that covered the exhaust holes at the bottom of the dropper. The dropper needs hole for exhausting the air, look the video that I posted in that post, you'll see how the exhaust holes are working, try to your dropper if they are working.

  74. #174
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    I have the red plug out completely, as I serviced the outer tube with the 3 locating pins. Not a sign of dirt, and even with the bottom red plug out the inner main shaft extends slowly when the actuator is depressed. The dropper does not sag at all, but seems very sluggish on extending. The slightest amount of help extending it helps, but I'm positive it just requires more pressure.
    I thought is was a rubber bung/valve like on a motorcycle gas shock where you could use a hypodermic needle to inflate it?
    Guess I'll just keep trying to force air in...

  75. #175
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    Yeah I think that your problem is different from mine. If you can make it post here the way you do it. Good luck!

  76. #176
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    Idea! KS DropZone not returning up - FIXED

    Thanks Alexis for your input.
    It turns out I was right with my post not returning back up. It was a matter of added some more pressure, and it's all hundred percent now.
    I took some ideas of using a typical ball inflation valve and modified it to suit my requirement.
    I made up a little press-fit aluminium end piece to insert in the small hole in order to add pressure. Inflation required was 230PSI in order to get the post to return at the rate I wanted.

    Next step on my list is to make up my own lever system for my dropper
    I have already 3D printed the lever, just the clamps to go!

    KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-20160722_091813_resized.jpgKS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-20160722_091731_resized.jpgKS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-20160726_130051_resized.jpg
    KS Adjustable Seatpost Maintenance-20160726_131216_resized.jpg

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