Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 100 of 196
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40

    Kronolog is installed on my bike, my initial impressions

    My very cool dealer let me buy one of the two Kronologs he got in Friday. No, I'm not one of his fast flashy guys, I'm a 53 year old mechanical engineer that does detailed looks and evalations of the stuff I buy from him. I'm flattered he was interested to know what I would think from my warped perspective. I got the post installed, but didn't have time to "really" ride it, just around the driveway and up and down the street. My son had talked me into signing up for the Cat 5's in Saturday's road race, racing guys 1/2 my age. Thanks son, that was swell. I was 179 average heart rate for 3h16m on the 58 mile course with an 8 mile, 2700' climb (I have a weird heart).

    I had a Reverb but sold it to get the Kronolog's fixed cable feature, I hated the Reverb's hydro hose snagging in my Santa Cruz Tall boy's suspension pivots when dropping or raising. And when adjusted to minimize that problem, it stuck out weird at regular height rubbing my calf. So, I am not a stranger to droppers.



    So, here are my initial thoughts from just playing around with it. The specs on the box show 466gm post, and 28gm lever. Mine were actually 468 and 28, close enough. Sounds lighter than the Verb, right? They didn't put the weight of the cable and case, which is 48gm. Oversight, or sneaky? My cable system ended up 38gm by the time I trimmed the case to fit my frame. Soooo... A few grams heavier than the Reverb. But 294gm more than my Thomson. That's .65 lb for the drop feature. Worth it! That makes my bike, as shown below, 25.4 lb. Not bad for a full suspension 29er.

    I like that I had the choice of sides for the actuator lever. I couldn't tell from the preliminary marketing pics what the lever would be like, so I had my dealer get me an iSpec shifter pod relocator (hooks it to the brake lever band) to make more room if needed. Happily, the Krono fits perfectly between an XT lever and XT shifter. I can take the $50 adapter back.



    Installation was much more fun with a cable vs a hose, because I could clip the cable vs having to run to the shop to get the hydro hose cut. And no bleeding after. I was mad that Santa Cruz put cable stops on the frame instead of ziptie saddles when I had the Reverb, but going to cables worked out great for my combo. As you can see in the pics, the install came out exceptionally sanitary. The cable routing from the lever to the frame looks natural. The Reverb hose was a little intrusive poking straight out in the front.



    Oh, yeah, the cable stop in the post's pawls uses a 2mm set screw. It pushed a kink in the cable so bad I couldn't remove the cable from the stop to fit it to my bike's lengths. I had to cut the cable, and then pull the frayed strands out with a needle nose. Before I assembled it, I got another 2mm set screw, to approach the cable from both sides in the stop so as not to kink it. Much better. Do that.

    The push on the lever to release the post is very, very light touch. It's about 1/3 the force to upshift the front derailleur. And it's smooth and progressive. The outter edge of the lever moves just 3/4" to actuate the drop feature. The Reverb seemed like I had to be pushing my thumb directly colinear with the centerline of the button travel axis to get it to move without binding. I can wildly stab the Kronolog lever and it works without whining.

    Riding around in controlled conditions, the post motion actuation is very nice. The adjustable pressure range is 50 to 80 PSI, I put mine at 65 as a starting point. Riding along, if I just push the lever, it will drop without any body english to get it started. The Reverb seemed like it took a little pogo bounce to get moving, as if there was some initial sticktion to overcome. I really noticed that with the Reverb, because commuting on the bike (29 miles each way), I used to like to change the seat height slightly. Moving the Reverb 1/4" was impossible. Moving the Kronolog 1/8" is easy. And with the Reverb, I felt just like with the button's sensitivity, I had to drop my fanny perfectly along same angle as the seat post to get it to drop, almost pulling the saddle forward with my cheeks. In rough conditions, I missed the drop a few times because of it. I imagine the Kronolog is going to be really easy to drop in all conditions and situations, because no matter how I tried, sitting on the saddle nose or heel, it smoothly went down.



    The rebound on the Kronolog, just like they promised, is quite civilized. I have heard of guys getting tapped on the rebound with mechanical posts, but this is nice. It starts off quick, but slows in the last inch or so of travel. Very cool.

    So, those are my initial impressions. I can't wait to dirt ride it. You can bash my thoughts, that's OK. It's all opinion.
    Last edited by gibbons; 03-25-2012 at 09:20 PM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: wilks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,248
    Nice write up. My only concern is long term durability Please keep us posted. PS nice bike!

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    Quote Originally Posted by wilks View Post
    Nice write up. My only concern is long term durability Please keep us posted. PS nice bike!
    Thanks for the comment on my bike. I'm certainly not up to getting the most out of it, but I have Rheumatoid Arthritis, and getting new stuff keeps the cycling game fun and interesting. And I need every advantage I can buy. As the rest of my joints go to pieces, my hips, knees and ankles are fine cuz I ride

    Long term durability was a big question, too, but having held this post in my hands, not so much now. The silver stripe up the front and back was a big question. It has what looks like little graduations on it, some were wondering what they're really like. They are barely any depth at all. If you slide your finger nail across them, you can barely feel them. They certainly aren't machined, more like a laser etch, maybe? Therefore, I am not worried about them ripping up the seal or large amounts of guck getting in.

    The seal fits snug, even on the flat sides. I'm guessing they were molded for this applicaition of round bottom, and flat sides top. In any case, they aren't round-peg-square-hole syndrome, meaning a generic round seal crammed over the unique slider shape, with gaps along the flats.

    My Reverb had radial (twist) play out of the box. This has none. Absolutely none. But still goes up and down freely. We'll see how that goes.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cerebroside's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    938
    Thanks for the writeup, I have to say I'm jealous! I will have to step up my efforts to find one.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    276
    Nice post and bike. A mechanical engineer who needed to go to the shop to cut the hydro hose..Really?

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    Quote Originally Posted by mtb-ripper View Post
    Nice post and bike. A mechanical engineer who needed to go to the shop to cut the hydro hose..Really?
    The shop has the magic cutter (Jagwire?) that keeps from crushing the inner pressure sleeve, and they have the clamp that holds the hose to tap the ferrel back in. I could hill-billy it, but I like stuff done perfectly. They are 1.5 miles away, no problem. And it's fun to stop in anyway.

    For conventional cable, I don't use a cable cutter. I use a Demel with a carburandum disc because it doesn't take any force to buzz through and doesn't distort the structural wire at all. But it does melt the inner lining a bit, so I use my acetylene welder tip cleaning round files (tiny) to open it back up and smooth it. That's not hill-billy either, I make the best cuts you'll ever see

  7. #7
    Blue Pig
    Reputation: Blksocks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    Quote Originally Posted by mtb-ripper View Post
    Nice post and bike. A mechanical engineer who needed to go to the shop to cut the hydro hose..Really?
    I know someone who is an engineer for Verizon but can't cut drywall. Everyone can't master everything.
    Ragley Blue Pig

  8. #8
    some know me as mongo
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    681
    awesome write up there. Thusfar I have NOT bought a dropper post because none of them are reliable enough for me as of yet, I will be traveling overseas and cant really tolerate a failure at any "normal" interval. I am really interested to hear about the offroad performance and reliability as I REALLY want a dropper post.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3,161
    Great stuff. Thanks for sharing. I may get one for my birthday

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,465
    Awesome review and nice TB.
    konahonzo

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Yody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,175
    Bikes to clean, must be a roadie....lol

    Good comparison, altho some of the reverb problems you have either seemed exaggerated or something was wrong with your post. My reverb has virtually no wiggle to it (laterally), the joystick plunger presses down perfectly, the seat lowers actually pretty easily although there is a hint of initial stiction as you noted, and since I have the stealth I don't deal with the hose going up and down with the seat

  12. #12
    Is not amused
    Reputation: Hutch3637's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    3,205
    Great review and write up. Nice bike too.
    Yip yip yip nope nope nope

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mint355's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    213
    Awesome write up I'm stuck between the reverb and the krono think you just made up my mind cheers

  14. #14
    beater
    Reputation: evasive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    5,046
    Ditto what everyone else already posted. And subscribed for some more thoughts on trail performance and longer-term reliability.

  15. #15
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    7,939
    Very interested in long term reliability. That has not been Crank Brothers strength in the past.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    107
    Jeebus, I've been dying for some hands-on write ups, waiting to see them trickling out into eager seat-tubes. So THANKS for the initial thoughts. I'm hoping my dealer get's the two he ordered soon.

  17. #17
    Axe
    Axe is offline
    Custom User Title
    Reputation: Axe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    7,240
    Quote Originally Posted by RandyBoy View Post
    Very interested in long term reliability. That has not been Crank Brothers strength in the past.
    As a physicist/engineer I also always drooled over some CB bits, and how nicely they look and made. But then all of them that I owned failed in a fashion that seemed to indicate lack of prolonged practical testing.
    Will take a lot of happy owners reports for me to buy another bit from them.

  18. #18
    the train keeps rollin
    Reputation: snowdrifter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    3,213
    Thanks, I'm liking what I read and see, except the cradle portion of the post. It's pretty narrow, I suspect bent saddle rails for a big dude like me. It should be more robust.
    beaver hunt

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    Great review! My biggest concern would be the same thing that has KILLED my Joplin4 on several occasions, the Air seal leaking! Hopefully they have a better setup here as I will end up with a Krono soon! CB is offering a trade in value for the Joplin owners which is great! Not sure how much though???

  20. #20
    74 & 29 pilot
    Reputation: MTB Pilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    2,271
    $100 and I don't think that starts right away, at least that's what the CBs rep said the other day.

    MTBP
    MTBP
    "GIVE ME LIBERTY OR GIVE ME DEATH!"
    Turn on the truth: http://www.ronpaulchannel.com/

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    Quote Originally Posted by MTB Pilot View Post
    $100 and I don't think that starts right away, at least that's what the CBs rep said the other day.

    MTBP
    SWEEET! $100 off is great, I have no prob waiting a few months for that!

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    32
    Do you have to be the original owner to get the trade in value? Could I go find a used Joplin and get the trade in?

  23. #23
    RYD W/ FLO
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    335
    Whats retail $ on this thing?

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    32
    The retail is $299

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: roxtar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    760
    Great writeup. As another mech eng, I'm excited about the design of the Kronolog; the side flats and pipe clamp style lock are perfect in their simplicity.
    I'm concerned that the clamp will cause wear notches in the shaft it clamps on but I haven't seen the specifics on how it works. Hopefully, they've addressed this issue.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: robertj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    402
    So it's been a few days...how is the long term durability on the post? ;-)

    Subscribed for future updates.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    Time for an update. First off, let me say that I am neutral on Crank Brother's stuff. I just barely switched to Egg Beaters, even though my sons have ridden for them years and I put them on my wife's Orbea Diva road bike a long time ago. Actually, I was waiting for the Fox DOSS post with its rumored 2 step drop. Until I saw the Kronolog...

    I did a 58 mile commute playing with the post the whole way to see how it responds to various loading scenarios. It's smooth! I can be spinning along 95rpm, tap the button, and the seat drops smoothly with no sticktion. That's a big deal to me to not have to pogo it to get it moving.

    I finally got it to the trails. Oh boy, it's fun! As I mentioned a bit, it's easy to get just a little drop, so I don't feel like I'm teetering way up in the air, but still be able to pedal reasonably efficiently without the thigh burn. With the reverb, there were a few places I would make the effort to drop it. With this Kronolog, I was changing the height constantly, my left thumb was as busy on the drop lever as my right thumb on the shifter. It's so easy and slick, why not? But all that lever action, as feather light as it is, irritated my thumb, which caused and arthritic flare in my wrist. Daggum Crank Brothers products!

    I took the bike past the LBS for the owner to check it out. He was as impressed as I was. He asked how light I could get the drop force, so I decided to monkey with lowering the pressure. I set it up on my Tallboy using the frame cable stops. With the cable tension set to spec, it doesn't leave any room to jocky the cable out of the stops, so the rear section of the casing is too short to pull the post out of the frame(!) Removing the cable from the screwed lug doesn't work, cuz it has to be cut so short to fit under the cover that it splays. Note to self: Keep a supply of cables on hand for when the post has to come out. Your bike may set up differently.

    So far, the bottom line for me is that I would hands down take the Kronolog over the Reverb (exclusive of whatever the long term durability will be). I am used to $90 tires now, and they wear out. If this post wears out or breaks outside of the warranty period, I would feel like the giggles were worth it and buy another.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    592
    Thanks for the report.
    Sure the krono looks sexy on your bike. Wht a beautiful match. Hope CB is doing it right this time.
    I've been on GD turbo for over a year, been very pleased with it, but it dosent hv that sexy look of krono.
    Btw, for the thumb control, can u move it to right side of the bar? On GD, it is specific left or right. Mine is on left, I can't put it on the right.
    Thanks again for the report.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    73
    I'm with Yody, I don't experience any of the issues you described with the Reverb. Mine is mounted on a Blur LTc and has been flawless. So simple to use and definitely never have to 'pogo' to get it moving. I wouldn't buy anything over a Reverb, especially something from Crank Bros.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jazzanova's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,817
    Seatpost for a Tallboy (CB Kronolog, KS LEV...)
    I have a Crank Brothers Kronolog waiting for me at my LBS. It really does look nice.
    I am also considering a KS Lev, which should be out in about 2 weeks. The Lev will be over $400.00, maybe >$450.00 which is steep... Kronolog is $300.00.
    But I do like the KS lever much more. It should be also a little bit lighter. Somewhere between 450g and 480g. I do know the reputation of CB products, but my main question is the lever.
    Thomson will be coming with their seatpost as well. But it is going to be >600g...
    Do you have any discomfort with the lever?

    First Look: 2013 KS Suspension Telescoping Seatposts - Pinkbike.com

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    241
    Quote Originally Posted by rxsenduro View Post
    I'm with Yody, I don't experience any of the issues you described with the Reverb. Mine is mounted on a Blur LTc and has been flawless. So simple to use and definitely never have to 'pogo' to get it moving. I wouldn't buy anything over a Reverb, especially something from Crank Bros.
    Not to get off topic of the thread, but there is a good reason why the Reverb thread is 43 pages long, and its not everyone talking about how flawless the post is. Mine, on a Blur LT2, failed in two different fashions with 150 miles on it over the course of 3 months. Got a new 2012 model as a RMA, but I'm seriously considering selling it for a Kronolog or LEV.

    Definitely like the cable hookup on the post being at the collar and not the top of the post. Also not a fan of the handlebar button RockShox uses.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    6
    Awesome bike I totally agree the cables that move with the post end up in places you dont want them. I have been using the KS I 950 awesome post works great. But 5 inches of excess cable when the post is dropped can get in the way.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: muddywings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    645
    I am on a waitlist with my LBS for one. I have been sporting my maverick speedball r since it came on the market with no issues. (Yes I ride my bike!!!!) You got me though, it still works like a champ. My only main issue is it won't come up to full extensenion when the cable starts slip forward in it routing when it's in the down position then it runs out of slack.

    Quick question (and to subscribe to the thread)-Any issue using other lever mechanisms vs the Kronolog one? I have grown so used to using my pointer finger over the top of the speedball's remote I rater just leave it in place.

    Thanks!

  34. #34
    The Mountain Bike Life
    Reputation: mudpuppy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,345
    I can't wait to see how this post holds up...not a CB fan but this looks like it may work...only time will tell.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    Yes, you can set it up with the lever over or under on the right or the left. The lever itself flips two ways on the clamp bracket for installation. I like the looks of the Giant lever, but this one works fine. It doesn't have to pull much cable to actuate it, when I get a moment I'll measure that and post it.

    I thought the Reverb was great. I still think that. After having had both, though, the Krono works better for what I like. My dealer liked it better too.

    I am going to try a mountain bike race next weekend, 40+ beginner. The course is pretty gnarly. I can't wait to drop the post and wail through the steep down sections. What will they think of next?

  36. #36
    Alt-132
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,458
    Subscribed....

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: in the trees's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,953
    To OP -

    Would you mind posting some measurements for the post? Thanks.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,331
    Did you have problem with the seat tilt? As in did it move when you put your weight on the nose of the saddle. I had this problem with the Spec command post.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    Trees- what do you need?

    zscwg- Hmmmm.... hadn't thought of clamping issues, so no, it hasn't moved. The clamps aren't serrated, so you can get the exact angle you want. The bolt takes a whopping 12N.m torque, I don't see the saddle going anywhere. I'm only 160lb, but my climbs are long and steep and I sit right on the nose. It's a little anatomically invasive, but works for me.

    Criticism: I hate Torx fasteners on a bike (seat clamp and lever clamp), who carries Torx wrenches riding? CB aren't the only offenders, my Campagnolo Super Record 11 group has Torx fasteners. I don't recall ever having any issues with good old hex fasteners, if they weren't over torqued to begin with.

    After riding last night, I swung by the LBS. The manager took it for a spin (owner rode it first time), and was all smiles. I want to steer this from bashing other posts, but he noted how easy it was to get a little or alot of drop easily. No bobbing to get it moving. He said he's ordering one.

    I am going to be dumb and enter the 40+ beginner class at a local race this Saturday. The course is supposed to be pretty burly, I would suspect I'll get more benefits from being able to drop it than negatives from the extra 2/3 pound.

    And finally, I see a side banner on this site showing the Kronolog. It's my understanding that availability is tight. Glad I got mine!

  40. #40
    Axe
    Axe is offline
    Custom User Title
    Reputation: Axe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    7,240
    Quote Originally Posted by gibbons View Post
    Criticism: I hate Torx fasteners on a bike (seat clamp and lever clamp), who carries Torx wrenches riding?
    I do. That's what my rotors are attached with. And chainring bolts. I wish more hardware on my bikes used T25.

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: in the trees's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,953
    Quote Originally Posted by gibbons View Post
    Trees- what do you need?
    Total height of the cable"box" and height of seat clamp. Thanks.

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    2,073
    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    I do. That's what my rotors are attached with. And chainring bolts. I wish more hardware on my bikes used T25.
    Indeed....most everything would work as t25....wouldn't that be easy....

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    My rotors and hydraulic banjo bolts are T25, too, but I hope I would never have to mess with them on the trail! Is there a multi tool that has a built in T25? Cuz dialing in the angle of the lever, I had to take my T25 1/4" bit and a 1/4" wrench to turn it.

    Measurements: The "box" is 2.563" from where it starts to bulge out from the 30.9mm body to the top of the seal. From the top of the seal to the middle of the saddle rail (a little subjective measuring) is about 4.725".

    Here's a novel use of the Kronolog... My wife intercepted me on my commute home, she was on her Orbea Dama road bike with Egg Beaters. She hasn't mountain biked for at least 10 years. I told her I wanted her to ride my Tallboy (Egg Beater equipped) so I could see what it looks like rolling. When we got home, I got it out, and dropped the seat post to the perfect height for her with the flip of a lever. I love droppers.

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: in the trees's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,953
    Thanks, gibbons. Are those measurement for the post set-up with the 5" drop? Just seeing how these measurements/heights compare with a Gravity Dropper Turbo.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: roxtar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    760
    Quote Originally Posted by gibbons View Post
    Is there a multi tool that has a built in T25?
    I think all current multi tools now come with T25.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  46. #46
    Dirty minded
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    506
    Good write up, beautiful bike. Looks to be well designed. Can you include one more measurement please... What is the minimum insertion? Also do you see a way to remove the post from the seat tube without cutting the cable?
    That is a really nice bike you have there!

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    37
    Wow, this thread is impressive. Gibbons, your initial write up was great and I look forward to hearing more with greater abuse. I'm shimmed on my reverb after switching from the enduro to mojo dh but don't want to purchase new dropper until these new models get some reviews...just sent the ks supernatural back due to concerns after purchase but Im very intrigued with the krono...keep the reviews coming. Hopefully some aggressive trail riders get involved...somebody abuse this thing!

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    37
    FYI, I love my reverb but there's always room for improvement. And yes, super finite adjustments are difficult on her but I love the speed and reliability when hammering downhills. Still intrigued and the stealth looks challenging on installation?

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    115
    Curious, does the post come with a 20mm reducer for short people?

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jazzanova's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,817
    i am not sure if it does, but the one in the box I have seen did not.
    You can reduce the travel by any length.
    I have read somewhere it was 20mm increments, which is incorrect. My LBS also confirmed it.

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gunnirider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    309
    Quote Originally Posted by paddy73 View Post
    Curious, does the post come with a 20mm reducer for short people?

    Mine came with the reducer. So far so good!

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51860656@N06/7065023503/" title="Untitled by dkozski, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7079/7065023503_8a5f8e9251_z.jpg" width="640" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    Quote Originally Posted by gibbons View Post
    My rotors and hydraulic banjo bolts are T25, too, but I hope I would never have to mess with them on the trail! Is there a multi tool that has a built in T25? Cuz dialing in the angle of the lever, I had to take my T25 1/4" bit and a 1/4" wrench to turn it.

    Measurements: The "box" is 2.563" from where it starts to bulge out from the 30.9mm body to the top of the seal. From the top of the seal to the middle of the saddle rail (a little subjective measuring) is about 4.725".

    Here's a novel use of the Kronolog... My wife intercepted me on my commute home, she was on her Orbea Dama road bike with Egg Beaters. She hasn't mountain biked for at least 10 years. I told her I wanted her to ride my Tallboy (Egg Beater equipped) so I could see what it looks like rolling. When we got home, I got it out, and dropped the seat post to the perfect height for her with the flip of a lever. I love droppers.
    With those measurements it sounds like you have either a 4" post or a reducer fitted to shorten the travel.

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    115
    I called a lbs that had stock and they opened the box and said that the spacer was in the box.

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Calhoun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    2,061
    any word on the Joplin trade-in program?
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation: getvert's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    31
    Thanks for the info, I'm really hoping this is "the one."

  56. #56
    Alt-132
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,458
    Keep us posted on reliability, as that really seems to be the main unknown on the Kronolog.

  57. #57
    ...
    Reputation: Porchsong's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    605
    Quote Originally Posted by getvert View Post
    Thanks for the info, I'm really hoping this is "the one."
    Agreed, I'm also hoping that the category has matured enough to support a functional and reliable product. Hopefully the Krono will be a step in the right direction.

    I was pretty keen on the DOSS post, but the dual trigger lever (among other things) has dissolved my interest.

    OP: As others have mentioned, please post again after some use and abuse.

    Cheers.

    Porch
    "If we were Vikings, Rocky Mountain aspen stands would be our Vahalla and its singletrack our bounty" - Mtn Flyer Mag #14

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    12

    Ordered mine today.

    Just ordered mine from Universal Cycles. They sold out on the black on black, but still have a few red ones. FYI they didn't let me use the VIP15 code for it

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    Installed mine today and will try it out tomorrow. Have had a Gravity Dropper for years, and decided to try something new. We shall have to wait and see how they hold up...

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    107
    Got mine installed. I chose to not disassemble any part of it to remove "incorrect assembly" from the possible causes of any issue I may have encountered. I basically inserted the post, turned my seatpost collar around to the rear for clearance, bolted on the button, zip tied the cable and installed the seat. Oh, also increased the pressure to 85 PSI.

    Riding it around the block: button action seems a little "rough" and like it requires more force than seems warranted. But the action of the post is very smooth up and down, it's very solid with no wiggle or play. stays where you put it. Overall, I like it. I'm excited to try it on a technical trail, maybe barton creek greenbelt this weekend!

    I'll post up after I go for a ride. This is my first dropper post, btw.

    I read the two bad reviews here on MTBR and It seems like it would be helpful to describe the install process they used because I suspect that they removed/replaced the cable and jacked with the tension and such or perhaps their frame doesn't accommodate the slight cable movement that is required.

    Picture of my routing:

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation: markymark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    504
    Thanks for posting. Keep us posted on any post-installation problems with the post.

    ps I'm waiting for mine to arrive in the post too.

  62. #62
    g3h6o3
    Reputation: PissedOffCil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,707
    Quote Originally Posted by Anita Handle View Post
    I read the two bad reviews here on MTBR and It seems like it would be helpful to describe the install process they used because I suspect that they removed/replaced the cable and jacked with the tension and such or perhaps their frame doesn't accommodate the slight cable movement that is required.
    I tend to agree but we will ever know for sure. The required cable movement is certainly unusual (and a nice place for future improvement) and since people don't read manuals it's easy to miss this information. I know for sure I would have missed it had it not been for this thread.
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    I installed my Krono yesterday and went on a ride to get some first impressions. I have run a Gravity Dropper Turbo 1"/3" for many years (and the model before that too). I have a few limited rides on various other posts.

    Installation: Was a breeze. I ran it right out of the box with no adjustments on my Mojo SL. I played around a bit with the remote by riding up and down the street and settled on right hand, under the bar, close to my thumb shifter. Cable length was fine. I was just able to get the post inserted far enough to use all the travel. Some users will not be able to get full travel and will have to use the supplied reducer. Would be nice if it came in 10mm increments instead of 20mm so you could maximize travel, stacking reducers if needed. The post was MUCH longer than needed, and I was way past the minimum insertion line. Multiple sizes like Gravity Dropper has would reduce a fair bit of weight. (I double checked the factory settings for cable free play and also made sure the housing was free to move a bit. The instructions are not clear about housing issue)

    Post: No wiggle, and ran smoothly. Looks good, much nicer looking than the Gravity Dropper, and no silly cable sticking out.

    Action/Remote: This is my biggest gripe, and so far it really bugs me. The post advertises a feature where the post return slows down in the last inch of travel to prevent nut slap. For me, it takes way to long to return to full height. If you just bottomed out in a drop, and have a sudden steep hill ahead, I want the post to return pronto! I repeatedly found myself having to either hold the remote switch down for what seemed like forever, or to hit it a second time to get full extension. Not good. In all my years riding the Gravity Dropper, I never slapped the fellas.

    Secondly, the remote action is somewhat notchy, especially when releasing the unweighted saddle to return. It seems smooth enough when lowering a weighted saddle. In addition, the action is not especially light.

    Summary: I'll have to wait and see if the post action is something I just need to get used to, especially as I'm so used to the Gravity Dropper. As of now I don't like the return action. As for durability, that's anyone's guess at this point. I plan to get more miles on it in the next few days.

  64. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,058
    Add air to the post to speed up rebound. Valve is at bottom of post.

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    Yes I plan to try some different air settings tomorrow. I probably should have tried that before writing my previous post.

    Thanks

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    115
    This post was on top of my list after trying out my mates newish reverb which died in the car park before we left.
    The plastic retainer for the seat rails sounds a bit crap. I suppose I could make up an aluminium one easy enough if it breaks.
    Small cable movement does not worry me too much as most other posts have large cable movement. where I ride in Perth Australia we dont have any mountains or very steep terrain, and I have spent the last few years dropping my post only about 30-40mm. Think I will wait a bit longer and see how these go, otherwise I may try a command blacklite post with the fixed travel options.

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    12
    Hi ronski, I ordered mine yesterday but now I'm worried it won't fit my bike. I currently have 19cm from the seatclamp to the rails. Can you please measure from the bottom of the activation system to the rails on your saddle. (like the minimum someone needs without adding a reducer) A report from someone else in this thread didn't add up for the 125mm of travel that is supposed to have. Thanks in advance.

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    The recommended pressure range is 50-80psi. I lowered mine to 60psi, but then went back to 65 for a little snappier return. You will notice 5psi. I can't imagine 80! That would be flirting with a serious nad slap, if you asked me, if you weren't fully standing when you pushed the lever.

    Yes, the lever feels different between lowering and raising. Raising from the fully compressed position, where the internal air spring rate is raised, takes a little more push, and it releases with a definite click. It's not hard to push, you just notice the difference.

    The amount the cable needs to move is pretty trivial, I didn't even really plan the length for it, it just worked.

    I am getting quite a few miles on mine now, including a race where I used it a ton! My left thumb was as busy as my right. In panic race conditions, I didn't even think about having to do anything special to use it, just stab the lever. On some long downhills, I actually dropped it an inch or so to take the perch feel off the saddle but still be able to pedal.

    The contact area for the grabbers isn't showing any wear on mine.

    I like it!

  69. #69
    Dianetics Junior
    Reputation: CBizzie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    171
    Quote Originally Posted by markymark View Post
    Thanks for posting. Keep us posted on any post-installation problems with the post.

    ps I'm waiting for mine to arrive in the post too.
    ....that's a lot of posts my man.....just sayin' it's all good though....

    Just playing - really just wanted to subscribe as I too am interested in durability....

  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation: markymark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    504
    Quote Originally Posted by CBizzie View Post
    ....that's a lot of posts my man.....just sayin' it's all good though....

    Just playing - really just wanted to subscribe as I too am interested in durability....
    Nice post. You know, ps stands for 'post script' too.

    Anyway... Thanks for the updates, might wait a bit for more feedback. My lbs has 7 of them in stock. They said everyone is coming in and looking, but waiting for more reports.

  71. #71
    Dianetics Junior
    Reputation: CBizzie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    171
    Quote Originally Posted by markymark View Post
    Nice post. You know, ps stands for 'post script' too.

    Anyway... Thanks for the updates, might wait a bit for more feedback. My lbs has 7 of them in stock. They said everyone is coming in and looking, but waiting for more reports.
    DOH! you got me man.....awesome....

    ...so anyway this Kronolog does look sweet and is tempting - I am with you though - will probably wait for more feedback before pulling the trigger....

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    chelenegra: Measured at the centerline, I have 21.5cm from the top of the seat clamp to the bottom of the rails. That means you are short by 2.5cm, just under 1 inch. You would have to use a spacer and reduce your travel to 4 inches.

    As for the seatclamp, I cranked the bolt down pretty hard and the saddle slipped in the first 20 feet of riding. I then got out the torque wrench and adjusted it to spec and it hasn't moved so far. Most people probably don't have the correct Torx socket fitting and a torque wrench to do this. As for the plastic thingy between the rails, so far so good. Based on the direction of load it gets I don't see it breaking, but who knows. Making one yourself out of metal? hahaha.
    Last edited by ronski; 04-18-2012 at 10:44 PM.

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    I guess I should have noted that I used a torque wrench to do it right.... I'm fortunate to have been able to accumulate the right tools over the years.

    Are people worried about the plastic center bridge? It's loaded in compression only, rotation is controlled by the outboard clamps. If someone buckled the center bridge, they goofed.

    $300 is about 3 racing ralphs with stans. I expect them to wear out. Heck, if this post only lasted a year, it would have been worth it to me.
    Last edited by gibbons; 04-19-2012 at 09:35 AM.

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    Gibbons: I have the appropriate fittings for my torque wrench, but I suspect most folks will not. I agree, the plastic bridge seems fine.

    You're paying way to much for your tires, and 12 months ain't gonna cut it.

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    I do ok on tire pricing.... I was comparing retails.

    If anyone has slippage problems with any post, go to a real auto parts store (or summitracing.com) and get a tube of valve grinding compound to wipe on the slipping interfaces. Problem solved it's way better than the stuff you get with carbon bars.

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    107
    I thought I read somewhere that you can run the cable on the back side. I didn't see reference to this in the instructions. Anyone heard of this?

    regarding the cost and reliability expectations... I personally don't view a $300 mechanical component in the same way as a $70 consumable part, although I do get the point about how much things cost these days. I expect it to last AT LEAST the 2 years of the warranty period.

    My first ride with it went well. I may need to play with the placement of the button due to the amount of throw and force required to actuate the post. Button feels notchy for sure. Post behaved itself. I like being able to fully extend my legs on the flats/hills and lower it for turns and techy stuff.

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimarin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    541
    I just put mine on. You can't run it with the cable in the back unless you have to take it apart. I tried and the front is taller. The saddle rails then hit the hit the post when you try to level it. It installed pretty easy. I've got 80psi in it and it returns about as fast as a gravity dropper except the last inch. Lever fit well with xt brakes. I'll try it out tomorrow.

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3
    Guys if you have the old Joplin seatpost Crankbrothers will let you trade it in for the Kronolog for $150 +tax. I just picked mine up from Crankbrothers headquarters. So far its working awesome!

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    Update: I carried my pump today and tried some different air settings. The post is pretty nice but I still think the return to full height speed is way to slow. jmarin mentions above that the speed is the same as a Gravity Dropper. (The GD spring can be adjusted so maybe you had yours set without much preload?) If so, then there is significant post to post variation because mine isn't even close to the return speed of several GD's I have on various bikes. (currently 4 GD's)

    The concept of slowing down in the last inch looks good on paper, but in practice I don't see the point. To get the saddle back to full height you either have to push twice or hold the button down for a long time. Too long if you are in a hurry to get the saddle up and pedal right now. In addition I still find the remote action to be a little notchy and to require a fair amount of force.

    My concern about the return speed may bother me more than others. I'll have to wait and see if it is something I just get used to. So for me, the post is promising but the jury is still out.

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    Wow, do we have some product specification tolerance issues? Mine returns really fast, no need to double hit the lever. maybe we should video the motion and post for comparison? My lever is super light on the drop, a little more of a push from the bottom with a definite click to release, but I would not call it notchy....

  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    277
    Folks, do you know if the remote switch can be installed BELOW the handle bar on the LEFT side?
    d butt u kicked today, could b d same butt you'll kiss tomorrow.....

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    skeered: The remote can go left or right, top or bottom, subject to any interference from other attachments.

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    3rd ride update: Went out again today for a nice pedal, but alas the post had lost all pressure. Pumped it up and rode for a couple hours. Now 6 hours later the post has lost 30 lbs. Not looking good folks... I hope mine is not representative of how this is going to go for others...

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    31
    Damn ... that's unfortunate. I had high hopes.

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    Quote Originally Posted by ronski View Post
    3rd ride update: Went out again today for a nice pedal, but alas the post had lost all pressure. Pumped it up and rode for a couple hours. Now 6 hours later the post has lost 30 lbs. Not looking good folks... I hope mine is not representative of how this is going to go for others...
    Wow! Yours sounded a little weird.... Mine is keeping pressure fine. I hope that doesn't do that!!!

  86. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimarin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    541
    Ride 2 I'm starting to see occasional vertical play when fully extended. It's maybe a millimeter or 2. You can feel it though. It's not all the time but it is irritating. It's like it's not catching the last notch. I'll keep riding it and see what happens. So much for the perfect post...

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    107
    Quote Originally Posted by ronski View Post
    Update: I carried my pump today and tried some different air settings. The post is pretty nice but I still think the return to full height speed is way to slow. jmarin mentions above that the speed is the same as a Gravity Dropper. (The GD spring can be adjusted so maybe you had yours set without much preload?) If so, then there is significant post to post variation because mine isn't even close to the return speed of several GD's I have on various bikes. (currently 4 GD's)

    The concept of slowing down in the last inch looks good on paper, but in practice I don't see the point. To get the saddle back to full height you either have to push twice or hold the button down for a long time. Too long if you are in a hurry to get the saddle up and pedal right now. In addition I still find the remote action to be a little notchy and to require a fair amount of force.

    My concern about the return speed may bother me more than others. I'll have to wait and see if it is something I just get used to. So for me, the post is promising but the jury is still out.
    Quote Originally Posted by ronski View Post
    3rd ride update: Went out again today for a nice pedal, but alas the post had lost all pressure. Pumped it up and rode for a couple hours. Now 6 hours later the post has lost 30 lbs. Not looking good folks... I hope mine is not representative of how this is going to go for others...
    it sounds like your slow return was due to a lack of pressure. sucks that your post went this way.

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    Quote Originally Posted by Anita Handle View Post
    it sounds like your slow return was due to a lack of pressure. sucks that your post went this way.
    It was marginally quicker at full pressure but still slow.

  89. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    4th ride update: Actually just heading out, but just checked and the post has held pressure for over 36 hours. Oddly enough the post return is snappier too. Weird. Will give the post a few more rides before I decide what to do...

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    40
    Not to a wise guy or anything, but how is the valve core and was the cap (sealed) tight initially? I've had "flats" before with a loose core. Doh! Please don't misread this as I question your competence!!!

    I do more than commute on my bike, I've been hammering on mine and it's ok so far.

    Oh, yeah, notchy... The point from the lever pivot to the cable is pretty short, so when the lever is pushed, the cable drags at quite an angle coming out of the clamp. The adjuster barrel has a slot in it, I don't know why cuz without a slot in the clamp you can't do anything with the barrel slot anyway. If that slot happens to almost align with cable pull sideways, it can feel notchy. Been there...

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    Quote Originally Posted by gibbons View Post
    Not to a wise guy or anything, but how is the valve core and was the cap (sealed) tight initially? I've had "flats" before with a loose core. Doh! Please don't misread this as I question your competence!!!

    I do more than commute on my bike, I've been hammering on mine and it's ok so far.

    Oh, yeah, notchy... The point from the lever pivot to the cable is pretty short, so when the lever is pushed, the cable drags at quite an angle coming out of the clamp. The adjuster barrel has a slot in it, I don't know why cuz without a slot in the clamp you can't do anything with the barrel slot anyway. If that slot happens to almost align with cable pull sideways, it can feel notchy. Been there...
    Gibbons: Ya, that was the first thing I thought of too. I checked the valve first time it lost air but was unable to detect any problem. It worked great on today's ride. Thanks for the input.

  92. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    107
    Quote Originally Posted by ronski View Post
    4th ride update: Actually just heading out, but just checked and the post has held pressure for over 36 hours. Oddly enough the post return is snappier too. Weird. Will give the post a few more rides before I decide what to do...
    Weird. Good, but wierd. The good thing is that even if you lost pressure while out on an epic ride, it will still function as a seatpost.

  93. #93
    Eating Hot Pockets
    Reputation: A. Nony Moose's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    504
    it doesn't look like that clamp will work with 7x9mm seat rails...anybody know differently?

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ronski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,133
    Quote Originally Posted by Anita Handle View Post
    Weird. Good, but wierd. The good thing is that even if you lost pressure while out on an epic ride, it will still function as a seatpost.
    Ya, but for $300 and a history of failed posts they need to hit this one out of the park. I'm trying to be patient and reserve judgement for now. Ride # 5 tomorrow on Mills Peak. Stay tuned!...

  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    12
    So I finally got the post. I run a large frame so the stock length was a little to big for me and ended up installing the 20mm spacer. The process is pretty straight forward. The only issue I had was that the instructions are not clear if the silver ring (step 6 I think) needed to be removed with the spanner or just by hand so I called CB. I spoke with Nick (really cool guy) who said to use the spanner and explained that they use loctite on it so it might be harder to turn compared to the bottom cap. He was right, it was pretty snug. The whole process was easy enough. I feel that 60psi provides the best return. One thing I noticed is that once I installed the spacer it felt like the post looses some of that slow/end return (the annoying part for some users) The stock cable is a bit to long for my liking (Large Nomad) Now I just need to recover from my hand surgery and go for ride.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Kronolog is installed on my bike, my initial impressions-img_0589.jpg  

    Kronolog is installed on my bike, my initial impressions-img_0588.jpg  


  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Spudman003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by ronski View Post
    Ya, but for $300 and a history of failed posts they need to hit this one out of the park. I'm trying to be patient and reserve judgement for now. Ride # 5 tomorrow on Mills Peak. Stay tuned!...
    Ronski....how was it today? Jury still out or are you thinking the loss of air was a fluke?

  97. #97
    rider
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    2,355
    Quote Originally Posted by ronski View Post
    3rd ride update: Went out again today for a nice pedal, but alas the post had lost all pressure. Pumped it up and rode for a couple hours. Now 6 hours later the post has lost 30 lbs. Not looking good folks... I hope mine is not representative of how this is going to go for others...
    About your earlier concerns with too slow return to full height:

    I messed with a couple of these posts at the SOC last weekend and had the same concern as you do. As a long term GD user('06) I have never hurt the boys with releasing the seat. So I spoke with a CB engineer and he said that removing a certain o-ring will totally eliminate the air damping of the return to full height.

    About the air spring reliability:

    It looks to me like one might be able to pull the lower cap off & stuff a coil spring in there. CB might want to get cracking on this simple fix with a kit to do so before someone else does. All they need is even more confirmation of making junk in the eyes of MTB riders and they are DONE!

    FWIW I pull my GD apart once a year and slap some new plastic shims in it along with new grease and install a new cable. That is all that I have to do for another year of happy dropping . There were some initial teething issues with the GD but they were all sorted out years ago.
    Last edited by 29erchico; 04-26-2012 at 07:43 PM.
    Abandoned the 26" wheel in May '03

  98. #98
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
    Reputation: scrublover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    8,795
    Quote Originally Posted by 29erchico View Post
    About your earlier concerns with too slow return to full height:

    I messed with a couple of these posts at the SOC last weekend and had the same concern as you do. As a long term GD user('06) I have never hurt the boys with releasing the seat. So I spoke with a CB engineer and he said that removing a certain o-ring will totally eliminate the air damping of the return to full height.

    About the air spring reliability:

    It looks to me like one might be able to pull the lower cap off & stuff a coil spring in there. CB might want to get cracking on this simple fix with a kit to do so before someone else does. All they need is even more confirmation of making junk in the eyes of MTB riders and they are DONE!

    FWIW I pull my GD apart once a year and slap some new plastic shims in it along with new grease and install a new cable. That is all I have that I have to do for another year of happy dropping . There were some initial teething issues with the GD but they were all sorted out years ago.
    What he said. Not the coolest looking, not the most flashy, and only has pre-set stops, but they just plain work. Easy to maintain, get parts for, work on, etc.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    243
    Quote Originally Posted by chelenegra View Post
    Just ordered mine from Universal Cycles. They sold out on the black on black, but still have a few red ones. FYI they didn't let me use the VIP15 code for it
    i have black lever/clamp on mine, willing to trade anyone for red (located in bay area/ca)

    as for adding the spacer, yea i might have skewed the metal inner cap holes a little bit getting that damn loctite threading off, i'm currently working with nylon spacers to dial (different heights) exactly the right height with my post sitting bottomed to the frame

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation: roxtar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    760
    Quote Originally Posted by ronski View Post
    Ya, but for $300
    I keep hearing that comment. At $300 retail, this post is one of the cheapest, if not THE cheapest dropper post on the market.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 1

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •