On this afternoons rather tame XC ride I somehow managed to completely snap the drive side chain stay on my 2011 Intense Tracer. I rode on a few paces thinking that crack sound was just a rock hitting my wheel or something, but with the wishy washy feel it was obvious something wasn't right. Talk about the most anti-climactic frame crack ever.
So now I'm at a dilemma. The bike was a 26" VPP bike, built up just about perfect for what and where I ride; 150mm Float, Pushed RP23, Profile Elite hubs and full XT 9-speed drivetrain all together coming in around 29 lbs. For Florida trails and a little out of state stuff here and there it was perfect.
I really like some of the new stuff out nowadays, especially the 27.5 bikes like the Trance X and the Ibis Mojo 27.5, but the 29ers like the RIP 9 and of course the Stumpjumper would be nice bikes as well. Most of my components wouldn't carry over to a new 27.5 or 29, so I'd be looking at starting over with complete bikes. I'd like to stay under $3K which would rule out basically anything with DW-link unfortunately, which I'm still kicking myself over for not getting last time.
Would the advancements in a new but lower end 27.5/29er outperform my currently built up 26" VPP bike, in terms of efficiency and ride comfort? (Prior to cracking of course!). One thing about my Tracer that I've always been annoyed with is the lack of small bump compliance which has caused me many pinch flats even with high PSI. I'm under the impression the Maestro and DW-link are much better in this area?
Well that's enough rambling, mostly I'm just bummed I have nothing to ride now.
Why not just get the Mojo HDR frame, transfer your stuff, and run it in 26" mode. You can always up it to 27.5 later and you get the DW bike you've wanted.
^+1. the only thinks you will have to get is a seat post and maybe bb and head set. is the frame out of warantee? even if you want a new ride id snag a replacement frame and then sell it to offset the cost.
That sounds like a really good idea, to be honest I didn't even realize you could run the 26" stuff on a 27.5" frame, but I guess it makes sense. I could probably do the same thing on a Giant Trance X 27.5 frame, too, right? (Kinda sorta poor mans DW-link..)
Actually, not really. The HD-R is really a 26" frame that could be set up for 27.5 wheels but if you try to use 26" wheels on a dedicated 27.5 frame, the BB will be too low.
That's what I was thinking too. The Florida riding I have done was flat and sandy. Not that I'm an expert on the area, but I would think lightness and pedaling efficiency would be more desirable attributes than beefiness and long travel in that area.
The tracer is a lot of bike. On top of it having more suspensihion then you need the emphasisice is on the downs not the flats or ups and generly isnt a pedaler.
Kona hozo diamond back mason canfild nimble nine all would be more fun then
[edit] this comment came off kind of harshly the first time, didn't mean to!
I've ridden many many 4" travel XC bikes and I always feel like I'm going to wrap them around a twig or I'll land something a little rough and sail over the bars of the 71-degree head angles. I ride much better and have more fun on my Tracer, although I may be getting a little bit more of a workout, that's true. But I'm not racing so I really don't mind.
Actually some of those hardtails posted look like some really great bikes, and not at all like the geometry of some of the sketchy XC bikes I've been exposed to in Florida. Plus its been way too long since I've ridden a good hard tail, I've really been wanting to build one up.
If you want to stick with a full susser, maybe look at some of the newer shorter travel agro trail bikes. The Yeti Asr5 and the BlurTr come to mind. Sorry I don't have more options to give you but too many bikes are going 650b I cannot keep up.
I know you may have a bad taste for Intense frames now, but if your not in a hurry to change to a big wheel bike check out the Carbine SL. Many shops are blowing them out for $1600US.
I would be really interested to know if Intense will help you in some way. Definitely worth contacting them and sending the pictures. Let us know what they say!
. One thing about my Tracer that I've always been annoyed with is the lack of small bump compliance which has caused me many pinch flats even with high PSI. I'm under the impression the Maestro and DW-link are much better in this area?
Well that's enough rambling, mostly I'm just bummed I have nothing to ride now.
I am not sure there's much difference in small bump compliance between the Maestro, DW and VPP. They all have a bit of chain tension in the normal riding position to keep pedal bob at bay. Some might say the VPP is the softest. I would bet that your pinch flats have very little to do with the suspension action or suppleness. Probably more to do with rim and tire choice. Running tubeless? If not give it a shot, no more pinch flats for about 9 years. The question on VPP bikes is always the correct SAG so that they work right and have the correct feel. If you want something more supple you might want to look at Horst Link or swing link designs. I also have to note the new Kashima coated Fox PR23's are much more supple than the previous offerings and I run more air and actually use Propedal these days where as with the older models there was enough stiction to prevent me from needing pro pedal and missing small trail chatter.
Lots has been written comparing VPP, DW and Maestro, just search a bit on here. I have a Nomad C and love it. I love on the Front Range in Colorado. If I had to buy a new bike today I might go 150mm instead of 160mm and 34/35mm fork instead of 36mm fork. And probably I'd buy a SC Bronson C, HDR, or potentially the Tracer 27.5 C. The Yeti SB66 is pretty tempting too. The new stuff is really good in all the brands you mentioned. Demo away.
I have loved 26ers and have very little love of 29ers but the 27.5 is really intriguing to me.
Yep, really tempted by the 27.5s as well, I hear you there.
The reason I think small bump compliance would be better on a Maestro than VPP is frankly due to testing the two side by side on the same trails, my Tracer compared with a Giant Trance, and no doubt the Trance sucked up the small stuff a lot better. I've played with my RP23 plenty, and eventually sent it to Push to try to reduce initial stiction for a more progressive coil like feel, but the Maestro still feels more compliant to me.
As for pinch flats, Ive tried it all, and theres no magic formula as far as I can tell. I went with Stans notubes 2.5 years ago, and its helped a bit in the pinch flat department, but added a whole lot of constant tire maintenance as well. I've tried two rims and half a dozen different tire combos both tubeless ready and regular tires with mixed results but I still end up needing to run nearly the same pressure I run on tubes (32-37 PSI) or else they start going flat halfway into the ride. I managed to get a nasty pinch on tubeless a few weeks ago which ruined a nice new Slant Six so now I'm back on tubes till these tires wear out.
To be honest for the 4-6 pinch flats a year I would get with tubes I can change tubes out faster and with less headache and mess than with tubeless, what with the expensive rim strips, the Stan's goop, hauling out the air compressor every time and the random flats you get if you happen to let the bike sit more than a week or two. Tubeless is a lot more work and prep time between rides, but to be fair tubeless has only left me high and dry on the trail twice in over two years, which is considerably better than with tubes. It's a cool concept no doubt, but right now the cons outweigh the pro's for me, although I know plenty of guys who swear by them.
Anyway, depending on the outcome of the warranty claim I'll either keep the Tracer (and build up a new hard tail) or give up with Intense and pursue some other fine bikes mentioned in this thread.
To be honest for the 4-6 pinch flats a year I would get with tubes I can change tubes out faster and with less headache and mess than with tubeless, what with the expensive rim strips, the Stan's goop, hauling out the air compressor every time and the random flats you get if you happen to let the bike sit more than a week or two. Tubeless is a lot more work and prep time between rides, but to be fair tubeless has only left me high and dry on the trail twice in over two years, which is considerably better than with tubes. It's a cool concept no doubt, but right now the cons outweigh the pro's for me, although I know plenty of guys who swear by them.
One big difference in the last 2.5 years is the introduction of tubeless ready tires. They come with a UST bead that can be inflated with a floor pump. Its really simplified the whole set up process. No compressor needed. If you were trying to set up regular tires with Stan's it was a pain for sure. I quit using regular tires and only go UST or Tubeless Ready and I only use UST compatible rims no more rims strips here so I agree with you there. In the end run what every you want or you feel comfortable with.
One thought is that I have been a SC guy for a long time. At one point I moved from a Blur XC to an Intense 5.5. I hated the 5.5, it was harsh didn't get all the travel and was really flexy in the rear compared to the SC bikes. I got rid of it because I hated it so much and have not been a fan of Intense's version of the VPP. I know I hear guys same similar things between Ibis and Pivot's version of the DW as well with the Pivot being harsher.
I like the Maestro, its a bit more linear than the VPP and works really well for the price point. You can get a lot more bike for your money in the Giant.
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