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  1. #1
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    Input on my new AM ride

    It is a bike, I am going to ride it on mountains and trails...
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:05 PM.

  2. #2
    Canuckistan
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    looks good, but how about the rest of the bike? bars, stem, seat, seatpost, grips, ?reflectors?

  3. #3
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    looks like a great, really expensive build! if you can afford it, i dont think theres a ton of question about it being good or not.

  4. #4
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    go talas.......strokers werent for me, didnt like my mates.....'hope' instead?
    Hold on 2 your f***n fillings !!!!!

  5. #5
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    If you don't want to spend the money, maybe get X-9 or XT (for the front) derailleurs insead. I'd go TALAS because of the travel adjust.

  6. #6
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    id go xt in the front. i seriously dont shift the front enough to warrant spending a bunch of money on it. id use the saved money to bridge the gap and get a good set of hope brakes. hope over hayes everyday.

  7. #7
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    It is a great bike with the parts that work best for me....
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:06 PM.

  8. #8
    Do it all or nothing
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    Go for avid. And talas since it has travel adjust. Mayby consider a roco tst air in the rear since it has lock out. By the way how much can you snag a XO rear d for anyway???

  9. #9
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    If parts end up failing, or not meeting my needs.....I can easily replace them.....
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:07 PM.

  10. #10
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    O.K give me a discount percentage. Or a long math question.
    If it ain't broken... why the hell you fixin it!

    KONA rules!!

    If you miss the tranny... don't look down.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    I just checked out Hope, nice stuff, maybe since I am saving so much on everything else I just spend the money and buy them at, dare I say..... RETAIL and forego my deals. I cannot publicly say how much I pay for parts, but it is usually significant enough less that to not buy the top end from any line does not make sense....
    my mate put hope brakes on his spec demo......mental.....stop a car never mind a bike! just nothin compares!
    Hold on 2 your f***n fillings !!!!!

  12. #12
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    I like it!
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:08 PM.

  13. #13
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    I'm drewling just thinking of a saint groupo on the bike with hope brakes. Holysh-t it's going to be a beast. Post a pick when your done the build
    If it ain't broken... why the hell you fixin it!

    KONA rules!!

    If you miss the tranny... don't look down.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    After more research, I am now going to spend the money for the Hope Moto M6 brakes, nice stuff. Also just test rode the new Shimano Saint drivetrain today and am going to give that the thumbs up on this bike.
    Unless you're doing lots of long alpine descents then 6-pot brakes are overkill for any application.

    On an AM bike 2 pots are fine for 99% of what the bike will be doing, if you must go Moto 4's but 6's....too much IMO.

    For the record I'm running '08 XTs with 160mm F&R on my 575 and they are excellent, highly recommended.

  15. #15
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    for flash, m6 all the way. in reality, the mono minis i have handled everything i have thrown at them without a problem...well almost. i did ride in the snow and everything got wet and froze, including the brakes. they got wet and between the ice, snow, mud, and the 20 degree weather, the calipers froze up. a little bit of pressure on the levers and they broke free.

  16. #16
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    Nice bike indeed.
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:08 PM.

  17. #17
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    One other point to consider though: When it comes to bleeding them 2 pots is way easier to get "perfect" than 6 pots.

    And for flash: XTR with Yumeya upgrades is as pimp as it gets, but you need very deep pockets !!

  18. #18
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    Sounds like a kicka$$ build. The Strokers are pretty sweet IMO.

    Having too much brake is not really a good thing. It will be too " on-off" with little modulation. Having some feel with your brakes is what you want.

    I run X-9 shifters and deraileurs. they work awesome. I'd hate to crash and break an X0 der. Prodeals are nice, I work in a shop but breaking an X0 and having to rebuy another kinda negates getting the stuff for cheap.
    If anything I'd say get the X0 shifters and an X9 der.
    Make sure you get the PG990 cassette and PC991 chain........= )
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    Thanks for the continued input, fortunately I get most everything around dealer cost (some cases less) so cost is not a real factor. However I do not have access to all brands (I had to buy the frame from the market) Hope brakes are one I do not have access to. I can get Avid or Hayes, in which I was going Hayes, but what are thoughts on the new Avid Elixers?

    Contact Hope directly, they will help you out. They consider "any shop" dealers so will give wholesale to you if you are in the industry. If you need a contact person or some info shoot me a PM

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    Despite my username, I am finding I am more of an AM rider, which is to say I am in good enough shape to pedal up and around the mountain and not just hang on going down

    I just bought my new frameset, 2008 Intense 6.6, Here are my plans

    Fox DHX 5.0 Air
    Fox 36 Talas or Float? RC2
    Hayes Stroker Carbon brakes (203mm front, 180mm rear)
    SRAM XO Triggers & derailleurs
    Race Face Atlas crankset
    DT Swiss EX 1750 wheels
    Kenda Nevegal Stick-e Tomac 2.35 tires
    If Fox, then Talas. (Or Magura Wotan (my choice), or RS Lyric 2-step). I think easy one button travel adjust is essential.
    It seems to me that 203/160 is better balanced - you can grab both with same strength without locking out.
    SRAM - that is religion. I am of the Shimano Shadow denomination.
    Stroker is apparently an improvement, I guess it will work. My choice on value is Shimano XT.
    I think the best deal on crank set for AM is dual ring SLX with dual ring SLX front derailler.
    Nice wheels, but you can get a better set from Chain Reaction Cycles for less.
    Nice tires.

  21. #21
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    Insert comments here....
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:09 PM.

  22. #22
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    I pedal it and it moves.....
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:09 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    Shimano XT drivetrain (crankset, shifters & deraileurs)
    Hope M4 brakes
    Mavic Crossmax ST wheel
    Kenda Nevegal 2.35 tires
    You really want a triple crank with that frame?

    I am happy with my 24-36 (from 22-36 SLX - I think it is a better crank then XT, and double front derailleur works better..), then you can run medium cage rear, less slop, better with a chain guide..

    I also dig the multiple up shifts with the XTR shifters, on my light rides, probably will upgrade..

    I am experimenting with Crank Brother Opium headset. It is frigging tiny. Looks odd on Kona headtube.. It works well, but does not look as well sealed as Chris King.. But it is California here...

  24. #24
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    If you are using a reducer headset in the 6.6 Intense were (in late 2007) saying to stay away from Cane Creeks.

    There was a tolerence issue which could lead to H'tube's cracking.

    They recommended FSA reducer h'sets at that time.

    The url link to Intenses site if no longer functional so they may have resolved the issue but it might be worth a quick email to clarify what they recommend as a suitable 1.5 > 1.125 headsets for a 6.6.

    The broken url:

    http://intensecycles.com/web/shared/..._interface.pdf

  25. #25
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    Enough said.....
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:04 PM.

  26. #26
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    Can't wait to ride it....
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:11 PM.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    I am definately in need of a triple, I do some serious climbing and though not old, at 38 I am not a kid anymore and that lower gear really has been a life saver for me on many bikes, I just want the versatility. I hear you on the XTR, but those components are really more geared for XC than AM, just not as rugged and more likely to be damaged with an impact.
    How does a 22-36 double inhibit your climbing? I am not following. Low gears are exactly the same.

    On a triple you get 44 instead of 36, and no bashguard. If you are concerned about durability - bashguard is one of a few places where you can regularly absorb potential damage. I find that 36 is more versatile on descends then 32, and that I do not wish for a 44 when I have 36 on an AM bike.

    My opinion is that a 22-36-bash (current best value is SLX) is more versatile on an AM bike then a triple with an unprotected big ring.

    There is nothing in XTR shifters that is geared toward XC. If anything you want to switch by several gear at a time on AM terrain. They are just as rugged. They are only more expensive to replace. I am yet to crash a shifter.

  28. #28
    spec4life???..smh...
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    Curmy is right on the fact that you lose no climbing by running 22-36-bash. The low number of teeth will be 1st in the front while it is just the opposite in the rear. In my opinion running a bash on an AM bike is the way to go.

    As far as XTR they are really unnecessary unless your racing XC. Stick with the XT set whats a few more grams for the price difference.

  29. #29
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    to the o.p. i just got back to riding and while not a a.m. guy i ride the trails harder than xc fellas...with that being said has nothing to do with what i wanted to say hehe

    i switched to the 22-36-bash from the standard 22-34-44 and love it. still get the great 22 cog but a little taller middle gear that im in 90% of the time.and on the old set up i never went 44 but have had to replace *bashing it* and not to mention trashed a chain as well


    just my 2 pennies i like my new set-up and the bash gives my bike a little tougher image.

    dieing to see the bike completed sounds like a killer build!

  30. #30
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    dude i work at a bike shop also. You can get hope brakes from BTI and QBP so unless your shop doesn't use either of them then you would have to go retail. Unless you really want a talas go with a rockshox lyric the pro deal from fox is really crappy compared to rockshox.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by retro-newb
    just my 2 pennies i like my new set-up and the bash gives my bike a little tougher image.

    dieing to see the bike completed sounds like a killer build!

    And finally, Shimano dd the right thing and made a 2 ring wide range specific front derailler. So you do not lose any smooth shifting either.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by spec4life
    As far as XTR they are really unnecessary unless your racing XC. Stick with the XT set whats a few more grams for the price difference.
    I find multiple gear shift and quick release on XTR to be very convenient on trail. But then I am a king of a guy who just constantly is twiddling his ride - flipping travel on the fork, picking up the right gear. I am the opposite of a single speeder (but I like my SS as well).

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by spec4life
    Curmy is right on the fact that you lose no climbing by running 22-36-bash. The low number of teeth will be 1st in the front while it is just the opposite in the rear. In my opinion running a bash on an AM bike is the way to go. .
    Yeah, running a triple on that bike is doing it a disservice--dual rings are where it's at. And a bike w/ almost 7" travel needs a chainguide for sure. Other than riding to or from the trail head, how often do you really use the 44t? My $.02...

  34. #34
    Steeeeeeve PERRY!
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    Despite my username, I am finding I am more of an AM rider, which is to say I am in good enough shape to pedal up and around the mountain and not just hang on going down

    I just bought my new frameset, 2008 Intense 6.6, Here are my plans

    Fox DHX 5.0 Air
    Fox 36 Talas or Float? RC2
    Hayes Stroker Carbon brakes (203mm front, 180mm rear)
    SRAM XO Triggers & derailleurs
    Race Face Atlas crankset
    DT Swiss EX 1750 wheels
    Kenda Nevegal Stick-e Tomac 2.35 tires
    Why XO derailleurs? Also, they only make a rear XO derailleur bud. Why would you have that back there when it's subject to breaking and there goes 150+. I'd just go with an X-9. Take a look on eBay right now there is a bike shop liquidation sale on some Avid Codes. Tires, crank, shocks, and wheelset are go. Dig it. Just don't see the need to spend more money for a derailleur when you could buy one for 65 and not piss yourself when you've snapped the derailleur arm. Just my 2.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    After more research, I am now going to spend the money for the Hope Moto M6 brakes, nice stuff. Also just test rode the new Shimano Saint drivetrain today and am going to give that the thumbs up on this bike.

    Again, i don't understand why you buy the most expensive stuff. Granted, you could have sick discounts, but why? Have you tried Hope? Have you tried Formula? Pound for Pound, Formula out performs Hope any day on the trail or down the slope. If you're going to spend money, look at Formula "The One." Just seems overkill for an AM rig to get the Moto M6's. I saw that you switched the build kit to M4's, a better choice, but if you NEED the stopping power, again; Formulas dominate and run the 2 piston setup=simplicity and reliability.

  36. #36
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    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:03 PM.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    Crankset – Shimano Deore XT (I did a triple because I am 38 and sometimes want that wuss gear on a long climb)
    Several people had explained that you are mistaken here. Double crank, such as SLX M665 has the exact same granny gear, a more useful taller middle, and a bashguard that is even more useful for AM duties. There are reasons to have a triple - but what you have cited is not one of them.

    And, come on. You've mentioned 38 twice as if it is 68.

  38. #38
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    Out
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:03 PM.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    Thanks for all the input on the crankset (double vs. triple). I have had just as much input on doing a triple from my riding friends and co-workers and have ordered it already. As for the 38 twice, that was only because I did a copy and paste from another discussion
    Judging from the reason that you have cited, their input was based on some entirely erroneous assumptions. Had they been thinking about some 29-40 racing weenie setup? Or a road double?

    Seriously, swap it to an SLX 22-36 double. You will be happier long term.

  40. #40
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    Did anyone notice at the bottom of his list it says....

    "Bashguard – e-thirteen – blue"

    It sounds to me like he is buying the triple and removing the 44t...to make it a double..

  41. #41
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    Done
    Last edited by newdownhiller; 10-31-2008 at 05:02 PM.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by newdownhiller
    Sorry I have confused everyone, I am choosing the triple for many reasons, first, this will truly be an all mountain ride, with much more riding in the flowing singletrack and trails than taking any big hits or freeride/DH type of riding. I definately use my 44T ring on some of the faster smooth terrain.

    If I read e.thirteens product description correctly, they make the supercharger bashguard to fit the 44T as just a guard that will work with a triple, it does not provide the chainguide function, however it serves as only the guard.

    I can see this has been bludgeoned to death but anyways...

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    On that website you can see the real difference between setups. Going from a 22-32-44 to a 22-36 you will see that you lose only the 2 most difficult gears/speeds or whatever you want to call them. Those are the ones only used usually when pedalling down a fireroad at warp speed or down a city street at warp speed. If you really need 'em, then get 'em!!

    Sorry for the bludgeoning!

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcrumble69
    Did anyone notice at the bottom of his list it says....

    "Bashguard – e-thirteen – blue"

    It sounds to me like he is buying the triple and removing the 44t...to make it a double..
    Ah.. that's odd. He wants 22-32?

    22-36 with two ring specific derailleur is immensely more versatile.

    E-13 is like 100g more then Shimano's own it seems. I have send mine back.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by PsyCro
    I can see this has been bludgeoned to death but anyways...

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    On that website you can see the real difference between setups. Going from a 22-32-44 to a 22-36 you will see that you lose only the 2 most difficult gears/speeds or whatever you want to call them. Those are the ones only used usually when pedalling down a fireroad at warp speed or down a city street at warp speed. If you really need 'em, then get 'em!!

    Sorry for the bludgeoning!
    Indeed. TALAS 36, DHX 5.0, FR wheelset - and 44/11 gear? I guess for a downhill race...

    On E.13 website I did not find one that mounts on top of a triple - there is one that covers 44 if it is in the middle position. Which one it is? I am curious how one can mount a stout bachguard (anything more the a trousers protector) on top of XT without removing the third ring. ANybody got a picture on how it is mounted?

  45. #45
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    Poor guys gets butt hurt when he asks a ? but doesn't like the response

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATXSlugger
    Poor guys gets butt hurt when he asks a ? but doesn't like the response
    I am still curious how he will mount a blue E.13 on a triple XT without removing 44.. I remember seeing some Blackspire setup like that - but can not find it anymore...

    Editing posts out after getting some sound advice is quite lame indeed. But that's fine.

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