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  1. #1
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    I'm an idiot. Help please or $3000 down the drain

    I went for a ride about 2 weeks ago on my new 2011 Trek Ex 8. Let me just list the things that went wrong.
    *Trail was super muddy once I started going downhill.
    *I locked my fork and rear suspension before I left home and didn't realize until after my ride. I had just set up my suspension and the trail had drops and was really bumpy(Rocky Ridge) and muddy.
    *my bike had mud everywhere so when I got home I got the water hose and jet sprayed everything even the chain and cassette. I got a toothbrush dipped it into a bucket with water and dawn soap to clean into the cassette. I after got a leaf blower to dry the hard to get places and dried off the rest with a rag.
    *I have not touched my bike since.
    *No oil or grease was applied. Don't know what to get and where to apply.

    I admit I'm an idiot but I love mountain biking the strength and cardio needed and the thrill of going downhill... I love it!! But please help me out. Have I just ruined a $3000 bike? Is there still hope? Thanks for reading

  2. #2
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    You'll probably be fine. Apply lube.

  3. #3
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    No man! Just go to a bike shop, get some chain lube, lube it up, wipe off the excess and go for another ride! I would try to keep the high pressure water away from it though and try riding with the suspension not locked out. And read as much here as you can. You'll learn everything you need to know from here.

  4. #4
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    no worries bro your fine. Probably will have to remove and grease the bottom bracket and crank, possible the headset depending on the bearing used, chain for sure, and I always put some grease around the seat post. But all in all your baby is fine!

  5. #5
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    After the ride
    I'm an idiot. Help please or 00 down the drain-uploadfromtaptalk1358402686687.jpg

  6. #6
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    Oh, that's nothing! I thought it was totally caked with mud. Your ok.

  7. #7
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    That's great! I was pulling my hair out not knowing what to do! Thank's for the replies and the help guys! Really appreciate it!

  8. #8
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    The biggest no no you committed was using the jet wash. The forks and shocks are designed to have a blow off feature to prevent any damage from doing what you did.
    Also, I know your bike is new, but mate, but that is not a dirty bike!
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by StayJacked View Post
    After the ride
    What trail was that? I'm in Santa Clara and I thought most of the trails around here were open now. We havent had rain for a while....

  10. #10
    trail projectile
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    Lol that is clean.

    Recent post ride on my EX 8:

    I'm an idiot. Help please or 00 down the drain-imageuploadedbytapatalk1358404571.974943.jpg

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by solidfish View Post
    What trail was that? I'm in Santa Clara and I thought most of the trails around here were open now. We havent had rain for a while....
    2 weeks ago at Santa Teresa

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thiel View Post
    Lol that is clean.

    Recent post ride on my EX 8:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice! I'm still in the stage that I wipe off every bit of dust that gets on it.

  13. #13
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    Did you ride the trails that the temporary closure sign refers to?
    Sometimes, you need to go fast enough that the trail is a blur to find clarity. -- Wild Bill

  14. #14
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    If he rode Rocky Ridge with that sign up, then yes. Please be careful not to ride the trails when that sign is up!

  15. #15
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    and please remove the wheel reflectors

  16. #16
    Flying in High in the Sky
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    so.....what's wrong with your bike again? The only problem i see is that you haven't riden your bike in 2 weeks.

  17. #17
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    Even after getting this muddy, cleaning & lubing the chain (and derailleurs if you have them) will be enough to ride again.

  18. #18
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    Your bike is ruined....please pack it up and send it to me for proper disposal
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  19. #19
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    I actually had good results with my last stumpjumper by just keeping it "kind of clean". If it got super muddy, I would just hose it off. I found with my other bikes that trying to "deep clean" with rags, etc can actually cause a lot of little surface scratches from rocks and dirt. When I went to sell the stumpjumper, I finally gave it a thorough cleaning and the buyer couldn't believe how nice it looked. (Drivetrain is the exception, of course) Like everyone else said, you haven't ruined anything. Guy buy some lube at your LBS and they'll probably be happy to show you how to maintain your cassette, chain etc.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by StayJacked View Post
    After the ride
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You shouldn't ride closed trails. Thats how we get a bad name for mt bikers

  21. #21
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    Riding with the lock out only hurts your back, not your bike.

    One of the dangers of power-washing your bike is forcing water into the bearings in your suspension, bottom bracket, hubs, headset and of course removing the lube from your chain. Chain is the easiest of these to remedy with a quick application of lube. Your call on whether you need to inspect the bearings or not. Ideally you would dry your bike in a hot place to evaporate the water, blowing on your bike wont get inside the nooks and crannies.

  22. #22
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    Ha, my last ride last winter was on snow roads with lots of salt an other crapy chemistry on streets to prevent freezing, I forgot to wash my drivetrain after that (the only part of my bike that I clean). I had rust on the chain and cassette till summer, even after multiple washes and lubing, everything works fine till now. Don't worry and ride your bike more, the biggest mistake you made is riding it with locked suspension - that's not fun.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie nick View Post
    and please remove the wheel reflectors
    Ha!

  24. #24
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    That's not muddy! I wish I hadn't deleted the pictures I had of the race I did last spring, looked a lot like the pic Thiel posted. The mud was caked on so thick inside the frame and on the tires that I couldn't spin the wheels freely after the race. Cost me a bottom bracket and a chain.

  25. #25
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    You're fine. This was at stcp as well. The trail was awesome and tacky the first couple hour until the rain started coming down hard and it became muddy and clayish down on rocky ridge. Lesson learned, only hitting up stcp when its super dry. By the time I got down, the mud became so clayed up that I couldnt bike and had to carry the bike out with the added 20lbs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails I'm an idiot. Help please or 00 down the drain-facebook_1644805289.jpg  

    I'm an idiot. Help please or 00 down the drain-facebook_1548321491.jpg  

    I'm an idiot. Help please or 00 down the drain-facebook_1677822658-1.jpg  

    Last edited by fujiblue1; 01-17-2013 at 10:26 AM.
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  26. #26
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    A couple of people have mentioned not to use a power washer. I was wondering why not? Is it for damage to paintwork or to the components? I have a 26" hard tail.

  27. #27
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    The pressure can blow crap past the seals in the headset, hubs, cranks, etc. I just use a regular hose and nozzle. Try not to let it dry, too. It'll be easier to wash off.

  28. #28
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    I love MTBR just for these threads!!!

  29. #29
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    To the OP: What mud? That's the cleanest bike I've seen post ride around here...

    If I go for a mud-bath of a ride, I usually just take the garden hose and run straight water pressure (no nozzle) to get the big cakes of stuff off.

    Then just let it dry.

    After 3 years of riding year round, I'm on my 2nd shifter cable, 2nd brake flush, 2nd set of brake pads, 3rd BB, and I've repacked the headset bearings twice and repacked wheel bearing once.

    Then after it's dried, I take a nylon brush and then brush all the dried up dirt off the bike.

    Then I take a bike polish and an old T-shirt and polish the all the surfaces.

    I take chain lube and lube the chain. I take tri-flow and lube the sliders.

    using pressurized water could blow crap into areas that shouldn't be seeing water and cause issues.

    Once in a while, I'll just pull the wheels off and the cassette and rotor and do a thorough inspection. Then I'll repack bearings on my wheel. My front wheel has sealed bearings and my rear has open cage.

    I check my headset once a year and check BB if it's making any funny sounds or if it's not as smooth as it's supposed to be.

    I run full length cable housing and plan to change my shifter cable once a year.

    These bikes are tough. But you gotta give them a little TLC and keep up with minimal maintenance.
    Just get out and ride!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregk2001 View Post
    A couple of people have mentioned not to use a power washer. I was wondering why not? Is it for damage to paintwork or to the components? I have a 26" hard tail.
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoban
    The pressure can blow crap past the seals in the headset, hubs, cranks, etc. I just use a regular hose and nozzle. Try not to let it dry, too. It'll be easier to wash off.
    To elaborate, forcing water into the bearings can force grease out, leaving them without lubrication. Since you're forcing water in, water can get trapped inside and can cause the bearings to rust. Both are bad, and they will cause your bearings to prematurely fail.

    Even if you're on a hardtail and don't have any linkage pivots, remember you still have bearings in your hubs, bottom bracket, headset, and possibly pedals, all of which you'd like to spin trouble-free for a long time.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazarus2405 View Post
    Even if you're on a hardtail and don't have any linkage pivots, remember you still have bearings in your hubs, bottom bracket, headset, and possibly pedals, all of which you'd like to spin trouble-free for a long time.
    Not to mention forks, you don't want to be spraying water anywhere near the seals, as water in there will cause some issues as well.

    I know it can be a pain and a bit time consuming, but a bucket, sponge, rag and a couple of stiff brushes are you're best bet for cleaning safely. If you must use a hose, just have the water at a slowish steady stream to wash off mud etc.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  32. #32
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    as long as you clean it, and relube what needs to be relubed, youre fine

    i just hose mine off, and hand wash it after a nasty day of riding

    then check it for lube

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwiplague View Post
    Not to mention forks, you don't want to be spraying water anywhere near the seals, as water in there will cause some issues as well.

    I know it can be a pain and a bit time consuming, but a bucket, sponge, rag and a couple of stiff brushes are you're best bet for cleaning safely. If you must use a hose, just have the water at a slowish steady stream to wash off mud etc.
    Thanks to all for the cleaning info. I guess when my bike seizes unexpectedly I'll know why

    Maybe a good thing I'm considering a new bike soon.

  34. #34
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    Glad to see people out riding, but if the trails are that bad its better not to ride them. Unless you have time to volunteer to rebuild that is. Mud bogging is fun and all but it tears the **** outa the trails. Not be crap all over your riding just try and find a spot with less mud. Nice bike btw.

    As others have said don't power wash as it will get all that crud somewhere in the bearings and suspension seals.

  35. #35
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    I think you guys all got trolled hard!
    His avatar is a slightly muddy bike in front of a trail closure sign.
    He's asking if getting a bike a little muddy and washing it off killed it.
    Keep the Country country.

  36. #36
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    +1, supertroll.
    nothing witty here...

  37. #37
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    let her dry and use compressed air and rag to clean. t9 lube is a good lube and Bike Lust helps you clean her next time.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    I think you guys all got trolled hard!
    His avatar is a slightly muddy bike in front of a trail closure sign.
    He's asking if getting a bike a little muddy and washing it off killed it.
    Have to agree, too many retarded things in one post for it to be true!

  39. #39
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    Did you really pay 3K?

  40. #40
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    I smell troll.
    Go ride your bike.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambs827 View Post
    I smell troll.
    Epic long troll. Sign up, post a pick of new bike, wait three months and BLAMMO! Troll city!

    Hey OP, I like to use Finishline Bike Wash to prevent flash surface rust.

    Hose it down with regular low pressure garden hose, spray it with this bike wash, use a brush if it's really caked on, rinse with clean water, wipe it down. Lube chain.
    No, YOU don't understand. You're making an ass of yourself for all of eternity.

  42. #42
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    this is dirty




    just hose em down after the ride, then lube

  43. #43
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    I love MTBR just for these threads!!!

  44. #44
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    Not sure if serious.

  45. #45
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    Needs some 26 vs 29 and a rockshox vs fox to be a better troll thread

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  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simpledesign View Post
    Needs some 26 vs 29 and a rockshox vs fox to be a better troll thread
    650b and Magura.

  47. #47
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    "Whats the best bike for mudding?"

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  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmac View Post
    Epic long troll. Sign up, post a pick of new bike, wait three months and BLAMMO! Troll city!
    you rang?

  49. #49
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    If you think that could have hurt your bike, what exactly do you think it was designed for? Paved mountain trails?

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
    If you think that could have hurt your bike, what exactly do you think it was designed for? Paved mountain trails?
    Agreed! If mud scares you, send me your EX and buy a $200 fixie and a fluid trainer.
    I mostly just skim the important bits

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simpledesign View Post
    Needs some 26 vs 29 and a rockshox vs fox to be a better troll thread

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII using Tapatalk 2
    that, and we should also discuss the benefits of the iPhone over the Galaxy SIII

  52. #52
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    I use my iPhone when I run clipped....S3 on platforms


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  53. #53
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    Re: I'm an idiot. Help please or $3000 down the drain

    Thanks for the help everyone and I had no intention in trolling anyone. I applied White Lightning Wax Lube(please tell me its good!) and went for a ride last week and everything was great but now there's a loud click every full rotation of the front wheel. Does anyone else have the same problem? I'm taking my bike to get tuned tomorrow at my Trek store and ask them to help me out but they are known to have terrible service and I agree. I'll let you guys know how things turn out. Thanks again! :thumbup:

  54. #54
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    Disc brake out of alignment? Tink tink tink tink.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by StayJacked View Post
    Thanks for the help everyone and I had no intention in trolling anyone.
    For the amount of money you spent on your bike, and given that you are new to this MTB lark, you aren't doing anything unusual by being worried about your bike getting covered in dirt etc. It's always better to ask what appears to be a stupid question than to just assume that everything is fine and have your bike fall to bits under you because you were to afraid to ask.

    As far as the White Lightning lube goes, yes, it's good, but mainly in dry conditions, as it will wear off quickly in the mud and wet. In the winter you want to use a "wet" style lube, such as Finish Line's Wet Lube.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by StayJacked View Post
    now there's a loud click every full rotation of the front wheel. Does anyone else have the same problem?
    On a Fuel, 99% chance that's your front hub. This problem is really common on the Bontrager Duster wheelset, the dust shields sealing the hub click together, and they will all click eventually. If your store sells more than two Fuels a year, they will know about this. Push them to replace it under warranty, because all components are covered in the first year.

    You can ride the bike, though. The clicking has no effect on how the bike rides and it doesn't affect anything else. It's just really damn annoying and you shouldn't have to deal with it on a new bike.

  57. #57
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    Re: I'm an idiot. Help please or $3000 down the drain

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Disc brake out of alignment? Tink tink tink tink.
    I don't think it's that since it only clicks when I'm riding the bike

  58. #58
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    Re: I'm an idiot. Help please or $3000 down the drain

    Quote Originally Posted by lazarus2405 View Post
    On a Fuel, 99% chance that's your front hub. This problem is really common on the Bontrager Duster wheelset, the dust shields sealing the hub click together, and they will all click eventually. If your store sells more than two Fuels a year, they will know about this. Push them to replace it under warranty, because all components are covered in the first year.

    You can ride the bike, though. The clicking has no effect on how the bike rides and it doesn't affect anything else. It's just really damn annoying and you shouldn't have to deal with it on a new bike.
    That makes sense. Thank you man, that's a great amount of help

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by StayJacked View Post
    That makes sense. Thank you man, that's a great amount of help
    Its problem is a trek wood bearing in the front hub .. they get damaged by mud and pressure washing.
    Go to the trek store and ask if they have copper bearings to replace your wooden ones.
    Copper bearings do weigh more then the wood ones but last 3-5 weeks longer. they may have steel bearing too but i wouldn't use those unless you want your bike to be a boat anchor.
    BTW do you ride clips or flats?

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuglio View Post
    Its problem is a trek wood bearing in the front hub .. they get damaged by mud and pressure washing.
    Go to the trek store and ask if they have copper bearings to replace your wooden ones.
    Copper bearings do weigh more then the wood ones but last 3-5 weeks longer. they may have steel bearing too but i wouldn't use those unless you want your bike to be a boat anchor.
    BTW do you ride clips or flats?
    WTF are you talking about? Copper density is higher than iron density. Cast iron bearings are like 20% lighter. You just need to lube them with urea-graphite grease, so they do not squeal.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by StayJacked View Post
    I don't think it's that since it only clicks when I'm riding the bike
    This disk would make noise when your riding the bike. you can flip the bike over, spin the wheel and listen and pretty quickly determine if its coming from the caliper or the hub.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    WTF are you talking about? Copper density is higher than iron density. Cast iron bearings are like 20% lighter. You just need to lube them with urea-graphite grease, so they do not squeal.
    Urea can do wonders for his chain as well. Its best to let it air dry in a small space.

  63. #63
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    that bike is clean. i thought he said it was muddy.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by StayJacked View Post
    Thanks for the help everyone and I had no intention in trolling anyone. I applied White Lightning Wax Lube(please tell me its good!) and went for a ride last week and everything was great but now there's a loud click every full rotation of the front wheel. Does anyone else have the same problem? I'm taking my bike to get tuned tomorrow at my Trek store and ask them to help me out but they are known to have terrible service and I agree. I'll let you guys know how things turn out. Thanks again! :thumbup:
    I have the same bike, and I had the same problem. It's a "crunchy" sounding click, I bet.

    If it is in just one wheel now, it will likely begin in both wheels. This is a documented problem and your trek tech should know how to fix it. What it is is a defect in the rim manufacture, and each time the rim rotates (under load usually, which is why it only clicks when you ride it... ) there is a piece moving near the seam in the rim. I'm told it's the thing that holds the rim together while it's being welded.

    The answer is to claim it under warranty. Many people have gotten new (upgraded!) wheels on this claim. Others, like myself, found that they pulled the tires, tubes, and rim strips, then "peened" the area in question, then lubed it by spraying lube in through the nearest spoke holes. HAVE THEM DO BOTH WHEELS even if the sound is only coming from one so far...

    In my case the noise has gone away and has not reappeared yet (in about 300 miles.

    Good luck!

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