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  1. #1
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    How to convert a triple to a double???

    I have an XT crank with 44 32 22 chainrings. I'd like to convert it to a 36 22. Is that a good combo? What to I need to do/get? I was thinking I just need to a get a new 36 chainring, and an e13 turbo charger, adjust the front derailleur high limit screw, shorten the chain, and I'm ready to ride. Am i missing anything, fail to consider anything?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    never ender
    Reputation: fat_weasel's Avatar
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    Doable, just make sure you get a Shimano chainring. The tooth spacing between brands is sometimes just different enough to make shifting a pain. You might also have to raise the FD slightly. You might also think about going to a 24 or 26t granny for better shifting and a little more climbing oomph, but other than that it sounds like you've thought it through.

  3. #3
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    The gearing should be fine and should shift ok. The combo you choose depends how strong a rider you are and where you are riding. I used to have 36 / 22 but I ended up going 1 X 9 because the 36 was too hard for climbing but I was strong enough to do away with the 22. So I just went with a 32 single ring instead (however I did have to change my rear casette from 11-32 to 11-34)

  4. #4
    Platforms For Life
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    Only problem I would have with a 1x9 setup is that it is much faster to jump a lot of gears with the FD. I try to see if I could go with a 1x9 setup myself and realize how annoying it is when I run into a steep to click 8 in a row while pedalling fast to try to make the right gear in time. Double definately sounds like the way to go. I can never get my FD to shift perfect.
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  5. #5
    Fort Valley = Gnarl Fest
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    I run a 22/36 works out well. Just get a Shimano 36t ring and remove the rings you dont want. Add new ring and bash. Then tune front der and remember to set the limit screw so you can only shift into the 36t ring and not into the bash guard if that makes sense.
    "It sucks because that's what Boxxers of that generation were good at." -- XSL_WiLL

  6. #6
    Capricious youth...
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    Just go 1x9 with a 34t if you really want to go simple.

    Otherwise, go with a 24/36t up front. Truvativ makes that double-ring setup for their Stylo AM cranks. I'm running a double on my SX Trail and it's amazing.
    Meh.

  7. #7
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    Or if you want to try it first and cheaply (without buying a bashguard), buy the 36t ring and some shorter chainring bolts (typically listed as single speed).

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the help

    I'm ordered up a 26t small and 36t middle with an e13 Turbocharger bash guard. I ride a mojo and with the low bb the big ring turned into a bash guard. I didn't use it that much anyway. I have an 11-34 cassette so I don't think I'll have a problem climbing with the 26.

    Thanks again.

  9. #9
    g3h6o3
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    I also use a 26/36 with 11-34 cassette on my AM bike. I used to have a 24 instead of 26 and ended up having too much power when in the 24 & 34 combo. 26 is pretty good for flat and uphill and I use the 36 on the downhills.

    By the way, that's on a 36-37 pounds bike so I doubt the use of a 22 on any 2 ring setup is very useful and I don't quite get it why most 2 ring cranks are sold that way. Maybe I've got more power than most but 22T is a ridiculously low gear except for 10+ % climbs which aren't common over here.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissedOffCil

    By the way, that's on a 36-37 pounds bike so I doubt the use of a 22 on any 2 ring setup is very useful and I don't quite get it why most 2 ring cranks are sold that way. Maybe I've got more power than most but 22T is a ridiculously low gear except for 10+ % climbs which aren't common over here.
    You are probably a pretty strong climber, or your not really using your bike as an AM rig.

    My AM bike is used for everything, and I need the 22-34 first gear to push my 270lb ass up some of the ST climbs were I live! Maybe when I get stronger and lighter, I can drop the granny gears?

  11. #11
    neko no basu
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    currently i'm running 36/22, it's really good combo, absolutely suitable for the vast majority of real life rides, but anyway 38/24 promises to be better

    i'm planning to collect a few different chainring sets for racing on different trails — 36/22, 38/24, 40/26 and 42/28.

    i use x-9 gripshifts/derailleurs and never had any issues with smoothness of shifting. i even did not tune shifting after migrating from triple setup to double — it just works.

    and finally, i don't think dropping granny is a good idea — last year i used to climb a lot on 32t front / 32t rear on my favorite trail, and had issues with my knees after that.
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  12. #12
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    The chain ring bolt issue:

    I have already done this too!

    My outer ring I never used ( hilly and muddy always ) and it is also the main culprit in a wicked case of chain suck damage on the frame. So I just don't want the 3rd ring on the bike.

    Plus by not having the big outer ring it just makes the bike look more mean and gnarly. Like saying, "My big outer ring used to be here, but this bike doesn't go to the shop to pick up lady supplies any more!"

    I chose for 26/36 with 11-34 in the back. I am not a super athlete per say but I find the ratios to be perfect. 26<->34 = .76 is more than granny enough to get you up those crazy walls. But with the gears stick with the standard 22/32 to start and feel it out yourself. Nothing on a bike forum is going to really tell you what ratios are best for you. There are just too many variables that it can't be answered with a math equation.

    So..

    The only issue that I had was that I needed to get shorter chainring bolts. I could have also gotten a bashguard or I also could have found some 8mm washers/spacers to take up the space. Standard chain ring bolts I think are 10ml long and they need the outer and middle chainring to sandwich together in order to work. If you take the 3rd ring off the bolts are too long and don't hold the remaining ring on TIGHT! Maybe not all manufactures and cranks have this but I think it is common.

    After looking around at many bike stores and not finding shorter ones... and after looking at chain-reaction online but not finding something with a title or description that put my mind at ease to order ^and^ after going to the hardware store but still not feeling 100% confident that washers would do the trick...

    I settled on buying a normal set of chainring bolts and then filing the female casing down. For 4 bolts it took about 2 hours work with a manual hand powered file, you will want to find some way to hold the bolt steady and flat as you file, use a vice or pliers or mac guyver something. Better yet go to a place ( hardware store ) that has a machine and tell them to hack off 1.5 ml or so.

    Also when you buy a set of bolts try get ones that are cut squared and don't have some sort of flanged curvature to them. Otherwise you got to file that off too.

    When you put the female bolt in the chainring you will see whether it sticks out or not, I filed till it was about 1/1.5ml in. Then tightened it all up and made sure that there was no play in the chainring and no slipping in chainring bolts.

    After filing, testing, filing, testing, I am happy to report that my middle ( now I call it "high" ) chainring is now firmly fixed to the cranks.

    Not too bad in the end.

    You can also shorten your chain about 5 or 6 links, but first measure that correctly to your bike before taking my word for it.

    Lastly, I found out the DUMB way, ADJUST YOUR OUTER DERAILEUR LIMIT. I have no idea why but like a stupid moron I tried going to the 3rd ring again and ....
    Last edited by brownrl; 02-03-2011 at 07:46 AM.

  13. #13
    usually cranky
    Reputation: b-kul's Avatar
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    sounds like you are all set. for my local trails i just keep it in the granny and use my cassette a lot. call me a whimp but thats what works for me.

  14. #14
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    Good call, screw both the 3rd and 2nd chainring, take them off! Just go commando with a single ring in the front! Kudos to b-kul!

  15. #15
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    I do think that these chainring bolts here are slightly shorter. However I base that opinion on only the picture. ( The female casing looks shorter )

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=19227

    Maybe some one with knowledge knows for sure.

    Jenson sells these:
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ing+Bolts.aspx

    Which probably are the best thing for this situation. Unfortunately I live in the EU and anything shipped from Jenson incurs HEAVY customs charges and wait times.

  16. #16
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    Yes, excellent technique, b-kul!

  17. #17
    usually cranky
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    Quote Originally Posted by fotu
    Yes, excellent technique, b-kul!
    lol. not saying its how everyone should ride but its what works for me. i just think its stupid how to try and be macho some guys push a big gear and wear themselves out fast. anyways i avoid cross chaining so i dont see how it is bad technique, maybe ineffecient, but not bad.

  18. #18
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    Certain suspension designs, such as DW bikes, benefit from keeping the small ring, as anti-squat properties are optimized for climbing in this ring.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojobeer
    I'm ordered up a 26t small and 36t middle with an e13 Turbocharger bash guard. I ride a mojo and with the low bb the big ring turned into a bash guard. I didn't use it that much anyway. I have an 11-34 cassette so I don't think I'll have a problem climbing with the 26.

    Thanks again.
    Hey Mojobeer, how did the setup work out? I'm considering the same 36/26 bashguard setup and I also have a Mojo.

    Thanks!

  20. #20
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    It worked great. The 26 allowed me to climb faster but I found I wore out quicker and longer rides with big climbs werent as enjoyable so I went to a 22 and really like that setup.

  21. #21
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    Here are pics of my new 22/36 -- 11/34 setup:

    https://picasaweb.google.com/brownrl...eat=directlink

    I really like the 22/36 upfront, less gear shifting hassles, The 36 coupled with the 11-34 in the rear allows for almost everything. I only need to switch down on the monster walls for climbing.

    The SLX Double Hallowtech II crankset feels great! Power all the way through the pedal stroke.

    Almost forgot, with the double upfront, No worries ever again about chain suck.... GOOD RIDDANCE!

  22. #22
    T.W.O
    Reputation: pfox90's Avatar
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    Or you can man up and run a 40T ring up front with a 1x9 setup.

  23. #23
    007
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    So I have also been thinking about a similar conversion. I'm currently running 24/32/42 up front with an 11-36 cassette. I want to replace the big ring with an e13 bash guard and keep the rest the same for now. Two questions:

    1) Do I need to change out the FD, or can I just use the limit screws?

    2) Someone mentioned shortening the chain, but I haven't seen any more discussion of this. How do I know how "short" to make it? (I'd be getting a new chain in this process).

  24. #24
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    1. Set the limit. Nothing else changes about the front.
    2. Set it up as you would a triple. Big ring: big cog + 2 links.

    Brownrl...single speed chain ring bolts. At least you got an awesome forearm and rotator cuff workout

  25. #25
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    I use the limit screws to keep the 3 sp deraillieur upfront limited to 2 gears. With the bash guard you can be a little more confident that you wont over shift. The guard normally will keep the chain honest, but don't push it! Use the screws and don't go gorilla on your your front FD shifting. As mentioned the 36 ring up front is now what I ride for almost 90%. With 11-34 in the back you got plenty of choice. The little ring is used for extreme inclines, swampy mud, loose annoying rock beds, kittens...

    I used the standard method for sizing up the chain: There are many youtubes out there on this.

    http://bicycletutor.com/calculate-chain-length/

    This guy is boring but very helpful and correct.

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