Don't be afraid to cut down the Atlas if you need to. 785 is great for DH racing but I've found 750 to be about max for most other riding unless you have gorilla shoulders.
"There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!
Discussions like this always bring me a chuckle. Considering I'm 6'7" and bikes aren't made to fit me, I have to use, spacers, stems, bar height just to make a bike fit, then we can start to talk about handling. There is no "this is what works best" unless everyone on this thread is 5"10 and riding a medium XYZ brand. Then we can talk. Lowering the stem hunches my back, kills my wrists, and puts more pressure on my balls..............not sure how that helps with climbing or descending?
Master of Nothing, but dammit if I don't try..............
Never understood the need for riser bars and never liked the look. A stem with more rise and/or spacers accomplishes the same thing, weighs less and looks better.
'95 M2 StumpJumper FS
'11 Cannondale RZ 120-two
I went from a 38mm (2") rise, 710mm wide bar (rode on that bar for 5 years) to a 19mm rise, 745mm wide bar. Felt weird at first, but I don't think I could go back to my old bars again.
That in red above is on the money with the grips in relation to the seat height you like best (and last I checked most people still use seats on their AM bike and this is the AM forum correct?). Pick your combo to achieve that. Could be flat, low, mid, or high rise or what aesthetically pleases you to get there. My Prophet I use a 70mm, 25 degree Hope stem, 20mm of spacers below with a 1" riser 720mm bar to put my grips about 1" below seat height. My Jamis has 5mm of spacers below a 75mm stem @ 12 degrees with a 1" riser 720mm bar to achieve about the same 1" grips below seat height. In this case as far as I'm concerned TT length has almost nothing to do with it.
Originally Posted by kapusta
2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b