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  1. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Gman086's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Don't be afraid to cut down the Atlas if you need to. 785 is great for DH racing but I've found 750 to be about max for most other riding unless you have gorilla shoulders.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  2. #27
    Let's Ride!
    Reputation: digthemlows's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Discussions like this always bring me a chuckle. Considering I'm 6'7" and bikes aren't made to fit me, I have to use, spacers, stems, bar height just to make a bike fit, then we can start to talk about handling. There is no "this is what works best" unless everyone on this thread is 5"10 and riding a medium XYZ brand. Then we can talk. Lowering the stem hunches my back, kills my wrists, and puts more pressure on my balls..............not sure how that helps with climbing or descending?
    Master of Nothing, but dammit if I don't try..............

  3. #28
    Helmetless Crasher
    Reputation: Stumpjumpy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Never understood the need for riser bars and never liked the look. A stem with more rise and/or spacers accomplishes the same thing, weighs less and looks better.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  4. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: azmxr177's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    I went from a 38mm (2") rise, 710mm wide bar (rode on that bar for 5 years) to a 19mm rise, 745mm wide bar. Felt weird at first, but I don't think I could go back to my old bars again.

  5. #30
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    Don't get too hung up on the rise of the bar. It is just one of several things that add up to how high your grips are. Fork length, head tube length, spacers under the stem, rise of the stem, all add up to give you the height of your grips.

    For example, I had a mid rise bar on my last bike (Marin Mt Vision), with several spacers under the stem. This put my grips about level with my saddle. But my new frame (2011 5 Spot) has a much longer/taller head tube, so now I run no spacers and a flat bar to achieve the same grip height (relative to my saddle).

    As far as width, that is all preference. Just keep in mind that wider has the effect of putting you a tad more forward, if all else is equal.

    My Pro Taper mid rise is 720mm wide. I assume yours would be the same? That's not exactly narrow, it's pretty common for typical "AM" bikes these days. The flat bar I replaced it with is cut to 750mm. I like it, though it gets a little dicey in the tight trees. I imagine it is just a matter of re-learning where the ends of my bars are.
    That in red above is on the money with the grips in relation to the seat height you like best (and last I checked most people still use seats on their AM bike and this is the AM forum correct?). Pick your combo to achieve that. Could be flat, low, mid, or high rise or what aesthetically pleases you to get there. My Prophet I use a 70mm, 25 degree Hope stem, 20mm of spacers below with a 1" riser 720mm bar to put my grips about 1" below seat height. My Jamis has 5mm of spacers below a 75mm stem @ 12 degrees with a 1" riser 720mm bar to achieve about the same 1" grips below seat height. In this case as far as I'm concerned TT length has almost nothing to do with it.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

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