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  1. #26
    mtn pirate
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    So you're clamping the bar below the post clamp? Is that what you're saying?

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by pharcydemtnbiker View Post
    So you're clamping the bar below the post clamp? Is that what you're saying?
    If you are referring to my post, I hang the bike with the bike adaptor under the stem and seat unlike the picture of the bike in the work stand. I'd be afraid of the adaptor
    slipping past the seat clamp and the bike dropping it's weight on the seat.
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    I had the same issue when I installed the CP Blacklite. I started thinking about making a custom bracket then saw one of these at my LBS and it works perfect. It even distributes the weight on the stand better than clamping to the seatpost. There are a few companies that make similar items, but I found the Yakima had the perfect tube diameter for the clamp and felt a little more sturdy than others I looked at.
    Just what I am looking for. Was having the same issues after fitting a dropper.

  4. #29
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    I'm bumping this thread to get some more ideas on the best way to mount a bike in a stand with a dropper.
    I've got a stealth so I can't remove it to use a dummy post. I've got a carbon frame so I'm hesitant to clamp the frame.

    I took it to a shop and they said to lightly clamp the top (inner) part of the post so that the bike is basically hanging with the weight pulling up on the saddle.

    I've also heard to clamp the lower part of the post but the guy at the shop said to never do that.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    I'm bumping this thread to get some more ideas on the best way to mount a bike in a stand with a dropper.
    I've got a stealth so I can't remove it to use a dummy post. I've got a carbon frame so I'm hesitant to clamp the frame.

    I took it to a shop and they said to lightly clamp the top (inner) part of the post so that the bike is basically hanging with the weight pulling up on the saddle.

    I've also heard to clamp the lower part of the post but the guy at the shop said to never do that.
    Well, if the post option is out and the frame is a no-go, then I don't see a whole lot of other options. What is it about the top tube extender that doesn't work for you? I've been using my for a few years now and works perfect.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Well, if the post option is out and the frame is a no-go, then I don't see a whole lot of other options. What is it about the top tube extender that doesn't work for you? I've been using my for a few years now and works perfect.
    The top tube extender is definitely an option, except I don't have one (yet).
    I was also wondering how that helps, since you have to clamp the extender on to the frame or the post also, right?

    I guess the question is if it is ok to clamp to the top of the dropper, or the bottom, or both, or neither, before I go out and buy an extender. They aren't expensive, but I've already got a lot of clutter in my garage.

  7. #32
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    Just don't hang the bike without the dropper fully extended. Hang it from the upper portion, if its stealth or ks. If it's an older reverb, you need to pull some post out of the frame, and clamp to the lower portion. It is designed to take clamping forces, as its where you tighten the seat clamp. Don't clamp the seal head portion, you can deform it.
    It goes without saying, don't over tighten the stand clamp. Again, do not over tighten the stand clamp. I have seen way too many people thing the clamp needs your whole body weight to close. (Park).

  8. #33
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    Steve

    for routine cleanup and maintenance (drivetrain lube etc) - i slide the nose of my saddle in to "jaws" of my bike stand - do my work and done - basically the front wheel is on the ground - and i can lift/spin it as necessary to clean rotor etc...

    not "optimal" if you plan to get into major stuff - but works well for me as a simpleton garage mech.

    when I take my bike to shop - they usually hang it from stand by nose of saddle... have not clamped to dropper post or tubes - again - this has been for more "routine" needs -

    i've used my bike rack top tube adapter a couple of times - but found for what Im doing hanging by saddle nose works just fine

    i will not transport my bike using the adapter/old rack - its been laying down in back of 4runner... which is limiting etc... unless Im solo to the trailhead

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    The top tube extender is definitely an option, except I don't have one (yet).
    I was also wondering how that helps, since you have to clamp the extender on to the frame or the post also, right?

    I guess the question is if it is ok to clamp to the top of the dropper, or the bottom, or both, or neither, before I go out and buy an extender. They aren't expensive, but I've already got a lot of clutter in my garage.
    I have a Yakima tube top that I use to hang my bike both from the rack on the spare tire of my Jeep, and my work stand.

    I'm not a big fan of having it rub on the stanchion of my KS Lev dropper post, or having the saddle rest on it--Seems like that would lead to problems with the post.

    Fortunately, the textured 'knob' where the stanchion goes into the rest of the seat post is just big enough that the tube top catches on it, and supports the weight of the bike. It has worked great for me for over a year, the only time I take the tube top off the bike is when I'm riding it. It's also nice, because it keeps the front wheel aligned when in the stand.

  10. #35
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    I just bought a Park PCS 10 from Peak bikes in Golden, and asked them how they clamp bikes with droppers. They (the one guy I asked) recommended clamping the bottom part of the dropper.
    Thinking about it, during riding, the seat tube clamp has to put a lot of force on the bottom of the post to be able to hold my weight without slipping, so clamping it with those big rubbery jaws just enough to hold the bike weight should not be risky.
    Last edited by smilinsteve; 07-30-2014 at 10:31 AM.

  11. #36
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    When I rode demo bikes from the SRAM Ride Experience (the bikes were supplied by SRAM to demo Pikes, Reverbs, and XX1 drivetrains), the SRAM mechanics hung the bikes on the sawhorse-style bike stands by the saddle with the dropper posts fully extended.

    They said that upward loads were safe with a fully extended post, which makes sense given that the inner tube is flanged and that the load is therefore borne by a solid mechanical interface rather than the cartridge.

    Using a clamping repair stand only adds the potential to scratch or crush the stanchion, which can be avoided with a padded clamp and light pressure.

  12. #37
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    I have no idea how I didn't see the picture posted by RDMTB-rider when I posted a few weeks ago.

    That is my exact set up with the tube top, works flawlessly.

    @smilinsteve-- I don't have enough of the bottom 1/2 of my dropper post exposed to be able to clamp to it. If I didn't have the tube top, I'd have to clamp my frame.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by amxc View Post
    When I rode demo bikes from the SRAM Ride Experience (the bikes were supplied by SRAM to demo Pikes, Reverbs, and XX1 drivetrains), the SRAM mechanics hung the bikes on the sawhorse-style bike stands by the saddle with the dropper posts fully extended.

    They said that upward loads were safe with a fully extended post, which makes sense given that the inner tube is flanged and that the load is therefore borne by a solid mechanical interface rather than the cartridge.

    Using a clamping repair stand only adds the potential to scratch or crush the stanchion, which can be avoided with a padded clamp and light pressure.
    Now I've had one shop tell me to clamp the top part lightly with the post extended, and another shop tell me to clamp the bottom part. Probably both are ok if you are reasonably careful. I think I'm leaning toward using the bottom, as it is meant to be clamped anyway, and you don't risk scratching the coating on the sliding part, as you mentioned.

    This is probably fine if you are just talking about keeping the seat post vertical in the stand, but if you start spinning the bike in the stand so that you are putting bending loads on the post, then I don't know if either of those methods are ok?

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by GR1822 View Post

    @smilinsteve-- I don't have enough of the bottom 1/2 of my dropper post exposed to be able to clamp to it. If I didn't have the tube top, I'd have to clamp my frame.
    Neither do I, but I just pull it out enough to clamp it. If I didn't have a stealth dropper, I'd remove it completely and replace it with a dummy post to clamp on to.

  15. #40
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    So basically seems like the options are:
    - Get a dummy post, remove dropper, insert dummy and clamp to it
    - Hang from saddle (or as one guy said, clamp the noise of the saddle)
    - Clamp to frame or get a hanger like the top tube extenders
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  16. #41
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    This is where I hang mine:
    Hanging Bike From Dropper Post?-hang.jpg
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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    So basically seems like the options are:
    - Get a dummy post, remove dropper, insert dummy and clamp to it
    - Hang from saddle (or as one guy said, clamp the noise of the saddle)
    - Clamp to frame or get a hanger like the top tube extenders
    Or clamp bottom of post
    Or clamp top of post lightly (similar to hanging from saddle).

  18. #43
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    I've always thought the 'official' recommendation was to clamp the lower portion of the post. If you don't have enough post exposed... loosen the seat clamp and pull it out a bit. That's what I do, though it is annoying to loosen the seat clamp and adjust every time I want to work on the bike.

    That said, I've seen 'pros' (and by pros I mean the company guys at the demo trucks) just clamp the upper/stanchion part (out of convenience?). But those bikes get beat on so if a post breaks, it's probably no big deal.

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