So you're clamping the bar below the post clamp? Is that what you're saying?
If you are referring to my post, I hang the bike with the bike adaptor under the stem and seat unlike the picture of the bike in the work stand. I'd be afraid of the adaptor
Originally Posted by pharcydemtnbiker
slipping past the seat clamp and the bike dropping it's weight on the seat.
Niner Rip9 RDO
Niner WFO 650B
Just what I am looking for. Was having the same issues after fitting a dropper.
Originally Posted by trojans1993
I'm bumping this thread to get some more ideas on the best way to mount a bike in a stand with a dropper.
I've got a stealth so I can't remove it to use a dummy post. I've got a carbon frame so I'm hesitant to clamp the frame.
I took it to a shop and they said to lightly clamp the top (inner) part of the post so that the bike is basically hanging with the weight pulling up on the saddle.
I've also heard to clamp the lower part of the post but the guy at the shop said to never do that.
Well, if the post option is out and the frame is a no-go, then I don't see a whole lot of other options. What is it about the top tube extender that doesn't work for you? I've been using my for a few years now and works perfect.
Originally Posted by smilinsteve
The top tube extender is definitely an option, except I don't have one (yet).
Originally Posted by trojans1993
I was also wondering how that helps, since you have to clamp the extender on to the frame or the post also, right?
I guess the question is if it is ok to clamp to the top of the dropper, or the bottom, or both, or neither, before I go out and buy an extender. They aren't expensive, but I've already got a lot of clutter in my garage.
Just don't hang the bike without the dropper fully extended. Hang it from the upper portion, if its stealth or ks. If it's an older reverb, you need to pull some post out of the frame, and clamp to the lower portion. It is designed to take clamping forces, as its where you tighten the seat clamp. Don't clamp the seal head portion, you can deform it.
It goes without saying, don't over tighten the stand clamp. Again, do not over tighten the stand clamp. I have seen way too many people thing the clamp needs your whole body weight to close. (Park).
for routine cleanup and maintenance (drivetrain lube etc) - i slide the nose of my saddle in to "jaws" of my bike stand - do my work and done - basically the front wheel is on the ground - and i can lift/spin it as necessary to clean rotor etc...
not "optimal" if you plan to get into major stuff - but works well for me as a simpleton garage mech.
when I take my bike to shop - they usually hang it from stand by nose of saddle... have not clamped to dropper post or tubes - again - this has been for more "routine" needs -
i've used my bike rack top tube adapter a couple of times - but found for what Im doing hanging by saddle nose works just fine
i will not transport my bike using the adapter/old rack - its been laying down in back of 4runner... which is limiting etc... unless Im solo to the trailhead
I have a Yakima tube top that I use to hang my bike both from the rack on the spare tire of my Jeep, and my work stand.
Originally Posted by smilinsteve
I'm not a big fan of having it rub on the stanchion of my KS Lev dropper post, or having the saddle rest on it--Seems like that would lead to problems with the post.
Fortunately, the textured 'knob' where the stanchion goes into the rest of the seat post is just big enough that the tube top catches on it, and supports the weight of the bike. It has worked great for me for over a year, the only time I take the tube top off the bike is when I'm riding it. It's also nice, because it keeps the front wheel aligned when in the stand.
I just bought a Park PCS 10 from Peak bikes in Golden, and asked them how they clamp bikes with droppers. They (the one guy I asked) recommended clamping the bottom part of the dropper.
Thinking about it, during riding, the seat tube clamp has to put a lot of force on the bottom of the post to be able to hold my weight without slipping, so clamping it with those big rubbery jaws just enough to hold the bike weight should not be risky.
Last edited by smilinsteve; 07-30-2014 at 10:31 AM.
When I rode demo bikes from the SRAM Ride Experience (the bikes were supplied by SRAM to demo Pikes, Reverbs, and XX1 drivetrains), the SRAM mechanics hung the bikes on the sawhorse-style bike stands by the saddle with the dropper posts fully extended.
They said that upward loads were safe with a fully extended post, which makes sense given that the inner tube is flanged and that the load is therefore borne by a solid mechanical interface rather than the cartridge.
Using a clamping repair stand only adds the potential to scratch or crush the stanchion, which can be avoided with a padded clamp and light pressure.
I have no idea how I didn't see the picture posted by RDMTB-rider when I posted a few weeks ago.
That is my exact set up with the tube top, works flawlessly.
@smilinsteve-- I don't have enough of the bottom 1/2 of my dropper post exposed to be able to clamp to it. If I didn't have the tube top, I'd have to clamp my frame.
Now I've had one shop tell me to clamp the top part lightly with the post extended, and another shop tell me to clamp the bottom part. Probably both are ok if you are reasonably careful. I think I'm leaning toward using the bottom, as it is meant to be clamped anyway, and you don't risk scratching the coating on the sliding part, as you mentioned.
Originally Posted by amxc
This is probably fine if you are just talking about keeping the seat post vertical in the stand, but if you start spinning the bike in the stand so that you are putting bending loads on the post, then I don't know if either of those methods are ok?
Neither do I, but I just pull it out enough to clamp it. If I didn't have a stealth dropper, I'd remove it completely and replace it with a dummy post to clamp on to.
Originally Posted by GR1822
So basically seems like the options are:
- Get a dummy post, remove dropper, insert dummy and clamp to it
- Hang from saddle (or as one guy said, clamp the noise of the saddle)
- Clamp to frame or get a hanger like the top tube extenders
(Purple People Eater)
HH Thumper (Blackheart)
Bikes for Boobs
F*ck Cancer! One too many, 6/24/13. Miss ya ma'.
This is where I hang mine:
Vincit qui patitur
2012 GT Karakoram 3.0
2012 Salsa Spearfish 2
2014 KONA Process 153
2013 Giant Defy
2012 Access TCL
Or clamp bottom of post
Originally Posted by gregnash
Or clamp top of post lightly (similar to hanging from saddle).
I've always thought the 'official' recommendation was to clamp the lower portion of the post. If you don't have enough post exposed... loosen the seat clamp and pull it out a bit. That's what I do, though it is annoying to loosen the seat clamp and adjust every time I want to work on the bike.
That said, I've seen 'pros' (and by pros I mean the company guys at the demo trucks) just clamp the upper/stanchion part (out of convenience?). But those bikes get beat on so if a post breaks, it's probably no big deal.
My lbs always clamps the sliding part of my seatpost into the stand. I grimace every time they do it, just doesn't seem ideal. It's really not that hard to loosen the clamp and slide the entire thing out a couple inches, they're just being lazy. This is part of the reason I've been doing more work myself.
There is nothing wrong with clamping the stanchion of the post, unless its a Reverb and they crush the hose and fitting. The stanchion is hard anodized. The clamp will not hurt the post unless some one really over clamps it.
Originally Posted by Skelldify
Do not hang or pick up your bike without the post being fully extened. Do not store your post in the lower position for long periods of time, especially in a hot car.
It can/will lead to the need for a service as it tends to force air past the ifp.