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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    It's hard to get even tension between the seat clamp bolts on slacker seat tube angles. The 'half-moon' component of the clamp will interfere with the aft bolt on these geometries. This is an known issue by the manufacturer. They told me that you can grind down the area that makes contact with the bolt, and that they are working on a revision to address this. Perhaps this is your issue?
    Maybe that is it, the half-moon piece seems to be the issue, can't rotate up ennough and still have threads into the clamp under the saddle, or it is very tight. I have a medium Yelli screamy, effective Sa 73, actual 70.4, don't kniw whether that is considered slack? i run about 9" of exposed post for proper pedaling.

  2. #77
    Chris Bling
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Maybe that is it, the half-moon piece seems to be the issue, can't rotate up ennough and still have threads into the clamp under the saddle, or it is very tight. I have a medium Yelli screamy, effective Sa 73, actual 70.4, don't kniw whether that is considered slack? i run about 9" of exposed post for proper pedaling.
    I am also on a medium Yelli and am not having the same issue as you. I don't have gobs of the front bolt coming through the nut, but all the threads are engaged and just coming through the other side. Worse case scenario, can't you source a longer bolt?
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  3. #78
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    My GD operated better after I fixed the upward tilt of the nose of my saddle. But after 2-3 rides the sticking returned. Very hard to activate down or up, I'd say 50/50 works on the first try.

    So I took it apart following steps from tech Tuesday. It was very easy to take apart, big plus. There was not much grease on the inner post. What was left had broken down (assuming they used lithium grease shipped). There was zero grease on the shim flat surface, a little on the rails and zero on the inner tube. So i re-greased and reassembled. I was surprised how little grease was there given I have been using it twice per week for about 2 months.

    Out on the street it goes up and down really smooth but now will not lock in the down position. I tightened the top cap per GD tips but that didn't help. The other option is to loosen the bottom cap.

    When I took it apart the bottom cap was maybe 1" away from the bottom of the post. Tech Tuesday says tighten it back all the way until it stops, but this puts it way back in there, maybe 3" or more?

    Anyone have experience with how far in to screw the bottom cap? It's probably just trial and error, PITA taking it out of the tube and testing...everything else was incredibly easy.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    My GD operated better after I fixed the upward tilt of the nose of my saddle. But after 2-3 rides the sticking returned. Very hard to activate down or up, I'd say 50/50 works on the first try.

    So I took it apart following steps from tech Tuesday. It was very easy to take apart, big plus. There was not much grease on the inner post. What was left had broken down (assuming they used lithium grease shipped). There was zero grease on the shim flat surface, a little on the rails and zero on the inner tube. So i re-greased and reassembled. I was surprised how little grease was there given I have been using it twice per week for about 2 months.

    Out on the street it goes up and down really smooth but now will not lock in the down position. I tightened the top cap per GD tips but that didn't help. The other option is to loosen the bottom cap.

    When I took it apart the bottom cap was maybe 1" away from the bottom of the post. Tech Tuesday says tighten it back all the way until it stops, but this puts it way back in there, maybe 3" or more?

    Anyone have experience with how far in to screw the bottom cap? It's probably just trial and error, PITA taking it out of the tube and testing...everything else was incredibly easy.
    Hey Dude, I don't know if your situation is that same as mine, but after I took my post apart and put it back together I couldn't get it to stick consistently all the way down.
    What I found was that - I think it's part 62, Bushing, in diagram linked below - has very small fins or raised areas that fit into the slots in the outer post same as the inner-post shims do. Once I got that bushing lined up properly it seated down nicely in the outside tube, and I could screw the top cap almost all the way down to the bottom of the threads it goes on. Now my post stays down no problem.

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  5. #80
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    Thanks, that is a good tip to know for future reference. I did repeated attempts of loosening the bottom cap until finally with about an inch before the bttom of th seat tube, the seat would stay in the down position.

    I eliminated the top cap as the issue as I tightened the top cap so much that the seat would not go down, so i loosened the top cap and then focused on the bottom cap until it found the right spot. I am not sure why the bottom cap is far from being in the tightest position for it to work, but hey it works, and this looks like the same position it was in when I removed it, so let's call it returned to "factory settings".

    It's a very simple post but don't understand the tightness issues with these two caps.

  6. #81
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    I think tightening part #68, the 'bottom cap', is only going to increase preload on the spring, the initial force required to get it moving. Mine is flush with the bottom of the post to minimize preload.

    If it's not staying down I would check to make sure cabe tension is not too high.

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Thanks, that is a good tip to know for future reference. I did repeated attempts of loosening the bottom cap until finally with about an inch before the bttom of th seat tube, the seat would stay in the down position.

    I eliminated the top cap as the issue as I tightened the top cap so much that the seat would not go down, so i loosened the top cap and then focused on the bottom cap until it found the right spot. I am not sure why the bottom cap is far from being in the tightest position for it to work, but hey it works, and this looks like the same position it was in when I removed it, so let's call it returned to "factory settings".

    It's a very simple post but don't understand the tightness issues with these two caps.
    The reason you're having issues is you tightened up the to cap too much. Take it back apart and put in the plastic part on top of the spring you removed. There is a fine line with tightening the top cap. If its too tight, the bottom position wont catch. Tighten it where you think you want it. See if it goes into the bottom position. If it does, then tighten it a little bit more. You will eventually get to the point when you tighten in a tad more and it seat wont catch. Once you hit that point, back it off a little to the last place it caught. I always run a strip of electrical tape around top cap just to keep it in the right position.

    If you can't get it to catch in the dropped position, loosen the bottom cap. I have mine as loose as it will get and have no issues with having enough spring tension.
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  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    The reason you're having issues is you tightened up the to cap too much. Take it back apart and put in the plastic part on top of the spring you removed. There is a fine line with tightening the top cap. If its too tight, the bottom position wont catch. Tighten it where you think you want it. See if it goes into the bottom position. If it does, then tighten it a little bit more. You will eventually get to the point when you tighten in a tad more and it seat wont catch. Once you hit that point, back it off a little to the last place it caught. I always run a strip of electrical tape around top cap just to keep it in the right position.

    If you can't get it to catch in the dropped position, loosen the bottom cap. I have mine as loose as it will get and have no issues with having enough spring tension.
    Thanks for the tip. I rode it on the trails this morning and had to loosen the top cap a little after the post activated from up to down on its own. Loosening it a little seemed to do the trick as for the next 11 miles it worked perfectly.
    there is always a learning curve for me with new stuff, but I am impressed with how easy it was to take the post out and re-grease, it was less than 10 minutes.

    Next tqsk is to replace the LH switch with a RH switch so I can run it upwide down on the LH side.

  9. #84
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    I think the function of the top cap is to manage the looseness of the bushing and seal around the inner post. When you tighten the top cap to the point that there is no play you lock the bushing and seal in place, causing binding at some point in the post's travel. Having the top cap backed off from fully tight allows the bushing and seal to float around and help the inner post find the path of least resistance down. In my experience, you can get away with having it pretty loose, and it maximizes the smoothness of travel, but it accelerates wear on the bushing and seal. Though these parts wear over time even if setup properly from the start, and it's good to check top cap tightness periodically. As they say on the GD website, just a mm of play is best.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by markymark View Post
    It's stated on their website that running the holes at the back is better for clydes. Of course it is stronger to have the holes on the side that doesn't have all the pulling stresses from the riders weight. It's what I've been doing for 5 months, 260lb no problems. Got a shimano brake noodle too, work perfectly. No boot either.
    What is meant by holes at the back? I am getting this post and does that mean have the cable coming out of the tube facing the back tire and use a noodle?

  11. #86
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    Re: Gravity Dropper Turbo LP

    Quote Originally Posted by bertrenolds View Post
    What is meant by holes at the back? I am getting this post and does that mean have the cable coming out of the tube facing the back tire and use a noodle?
    Yes.

    I have also been running mine without a boot and no problems so far.

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  12. #87
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    Gravity Dropper Turbo LP

    Has anyone heard if they are going to release a new lever? There is talk about it last year but I believe that's all it amounted too

  13. #88
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    Well, don't have to fuss with adjusting the saddle bolts for a while, must have gotten lazy on some kickers and came down on the saddle, sheared the bolt and collapsed the rails. Was a nice Pure V...the cost of bad technique and lazy riding...Odd thing is that I have no idea when it happened on my ride. Noticed it when i was cleaning the bike off later at home, lifted it up by the saddle and the whole thing detached from the seatpost, somewhat comical....

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  14. #89
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    cjsb - I'd say you got lucky on that one

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by trap121 View Post
    I emailed them about the new lever as well. Was told it will be avaiable late 2013.

    Can anyone comment if running it without the boot has caused any problems?
    I have run mine without a boot from day 1. Not only does it look better, but its easier to keep things sliding properly
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  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by colin1 View Post
    cjsb - I'd say you got lucky on that one
    yeah, once I figured out what happened I realized how lucky I was. The rear saddle bolt was snapped in half per the picture and the front saddle bolt was driven into the bottom of the saddle and almost came through the top side of the saddle. I guess it wasn't a clean break right away and there was enough tension on everything for it all to hold together until I got home. I am going to clean my bike more frequently, this wa the first ride ina month where I cleaned it right afterwards.

  17. #92
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    I replaced my LH switch with a RH switch to run underneath the bar on the LH side. It was really difficult not to fray the cable when I reinserted. It frayed so badly that the switch wouldn't work.

    Got a new cable and got it installed, but had a similar issue. Got the cable tightened with those tiny screws and then tried bending the cable per the GD video, but as soon as I grabbed the cable it frayed badly.

    Anyone have any tips for not fraying the cable?

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    I replaced my LH switch with a RH switch to run underneath the bar on the LH side. It was really difficult not to fray the cable when I reinserted. It frayed so badly that the switch wouldn't work.

    Got a new cable and got it installed, but had a similar issue. Got the cable tightened with those tiny screws and then tried bending the cable per the GD video, but as soon as I grabbed the cable it frayed badly.

    Anyone have any tips for not fraying the cable?
    I just put a new cable in yesterday and had the same problem. I ended up just cutting my cable almost right up to where the 2 tiny screws hold down the cable. I think the real issue is that we are cutting the cable with the 2 screws tightened down, I bet if we cut the cable without the screws secured this would not happen.

  19. #94
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    Anyone have any tips for not fraying the cable?
    I assume you're using proper cable cutters and not cutting pliers (aka dikes) because they'll just mash the ends.
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  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by bertrenolds View Post
    I just put a new cable in yesterday and had the same problem. I ended up just cutting my cable almost right up to where the 2 tiny screws hold down the cable. I think the real issue is that we are cutting the cable with the 2 screws tightened down, I bet if we cut the cable without the screws secured this would not happen.
    I cut my cable before running through the switch and the tiny screws, got it to the correct 3/4" extended from the housing, too.

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockhop View Post
    I assume you're using proper cable cutters and not cutting pliers (aka dikes) because they'll just mash the ends.
    I use a Park cable/housing cutter tool. After the cut there was no fraying. The cable was fine after inserting and tightening down. But when I went to bend it, just the slightest grab with the needle nose and it exploded.

  22. #97
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    maybe a pick would work better to bend it instead of grabbing it with pliers?

  23. #98
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    Either solder the tip or can use super glue...

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  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoal View Post
    Either solder the tip or can use super glue...

    Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
    so after threading through and tightening down apply some super glue, I am going to give that a try for the next cable--thanks!

  25. #100
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    Hi. What is the max torque settings for the seat clamp bolts?

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