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  1. #51
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    Picked up a GD LP Turbo last week from Universal Cycles. With the VIP15 coupon code it was $256 shipped. Really happy with it, works great. Lots of options out there now with dropper posts, but still hard to beat the old school GD!

  2. #52
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    I have the GD Turbo LP on my & GF bikes and love it.

    Then I buy a new bike that came with a XFusion HiLo SL. Many complained that the XFusion would deminish in performance rather quickly so I figured I would switch it with my GD when it did.... it hasn't after almost 700 miles of riding. I grease the post with Slick Honey after most rides and cycle it up & down before wiping excess (as I do with my forks). I didn't want to but I like the XFusion better - still keeping the GD on standby though!

  3. #53
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    Does the GD Turbo LP have any play (lateral, fore/aft, vertical)? To those who have other dropper posts, how does the play compare? And how easy/difficult is it to find the middle position, for the MP version? Are there any cases of accidental release from the bottom or middle position? Thanks.

  4. #54
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    You can adjust the Turbo LP so it has no play. After a couple months, mine started not staying in the full-up position when I weighted the seat. But, it was a simple adjustment to correct. However, if you turn the adjustment knob too far, there's a little up/down play.

    No lateral or fore/aft play that I notice. Also, I've never had an accidental release from the bottom or middle position.

    Finding the middle position is pretty easy after a few rides. I think I actually prefer the 3-pos over infinite now. You always know its where you want it. I find myself fiddling with the infinite position ones all the time.

    The only slight downside I've found with the GD is that it works better if you unweight the seat a little bit before you lower it. But, I didn't even realize I was doing this until I rode a Reverb a few times and didn't unweight seat before I lowered it. So I don't think it's that big of a deal. You get used to it, just like finding the middle position.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skelldify View Post
    You can adjust the Turbo LP so it has no play. After a couple months, mine started not staying in the full-up position when I weighted the seat. But, it was a simple adjustment to correct. However, if you turn the adjustment knob too far, there's a little up/down play.

    No lateral or fore/aft play that I notice. Also, I've never had an accidental release from the bottom or middle position.

    Finding the middle position is pretty easy after a few rides. I think I actually prefer the 3-pos over infinite now. You always know its where you want it. I find myself fiddling with the infinite position ones all the time.

    The only slight downside I've found with the GD is that it works better if you unweight the seat a little bit before you lower it. But, I didn't even realize I was doing this until I rode a Reverb a few times and didn't unweight seat before I lowered it. So I don't think it's that big of a deal. You get used to it, just like finding the middle position.
    ^^^This. I've flirted with the idea of trying one of the infinite travel posts but I've owned three gd's now on different bikes, I really like the extremely low maintenance and reliable design. The fixed position of the cable rather than under the seat is a biggie too. There is a tiny bit of wiggle but I don't really notice it, as the above poster said if you tune it too tight it gets a little "sticky". The other reason I haven't gone with another is my legs won't allow more than 3" of rise/travel with my current bike, this reason alone makes finding any alternative nearly impossible. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but almost all of the hydraulic posts are 4" and more and you can't limit travel.
    To appreciate the flowers you must also walk among s**t to know the difference

  6. #56
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    Thanks for the replies! How about the seat clamp? Seems like it is a 2-bolt design so that should be solid as well. And where did you guys purchase yours? I'm eyeing the 5"/2.5" multi-position but it seems to be only available from the GD website, which is the full price of $325.

  7. #57
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    Seat clamp is solid, two- bolt design like you said. I like my seat tilted slightly forward, and I had to screw the bolt into the bottom of my saddle slightly (a few mm), but no big deal.

    The handlebar clamp is plastic. Luckily they sent two with it, becuase I broke the first one by tightening it too much. A few months later I forgot, and broke the other one when I changed my handlebars... Ordered a couple new ones from GD for a few bucks, and they gave me a free extra one.
    Last edited by Skelldify; 08-18-2013 at 08:02 PM.

  8. #58
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    plastic remote, really? thats dumb

  9. #59
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    The back side of the clamp is plastic...that way it breaks in a fall, not the lever/mechanism. Not so dumb.

    Should also say that I got a GD Turbo LP a couple weeks ago and love it...First dropper post so nothing to compare it to, but I went for simple, mechanical and made in USA over the alternatives.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    The other reason I haven't gone with another is my legs won't allow more than 3" of rise/travel with my current bike, this reason alone makes finding any alternative nearly impossible.
    ??? Not sure what this has to do with your legs. Are you riding seated with the post all the way down? There's reason to do this a little, but if that's what's stopping you from having a dropper post with more travel, then, as they say on teh internetz, "you're doing it wrong."

    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but almost all of the hydraulic posts are 4" and more and you can't limit travel.
    Several companies sell clamps to limit travel, but see above comment.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feldybikes View Post
    ??? Not sure what this has to do with your legs. Are you riding seated with the post all the way down? There's reason to do this a little, but if that's what's stopping you from having a dropper post with more travel, then, as they say on teh internetz, "you're doing it wrong."

    Presumably his legs aren't long enough to have a post sticking far enough out to use 3+ inches?

    If he's long in the body and short in the leg, he might wind up with a larger size bike (to get the right ETT) and the longer seat-tube would mean he can't run as much exposed seatpost.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by EnglishT View Post
    Presumably his legs aren't long enough to have a post sticking far enough out to use 3+ inches?

    If he's long in the body and short in the leg, he might wind up with a larger size bike (to get the right ETT) and the longer seat-tube would mean he can't run as much exposed seatpost.
    Yes, that's it. 3 1/5 would be perfect but they don't exist. I just ordered a ks lev with 4" travel.


    I do tons of reading and research before buying major components, so I'm confident I made a good choice. I still swear by gd reliability and cs, but one thing I had trouble with was hunting for that fixed middle position, usually at the worst time, disrupting my flow and focus. I was just waiting for one of these posts to stand the test of time through mutiple sources, this one looks promising. The fixed cable was a must have also.
    To appreciate the flowers you must also walk among s**t to know the difference

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    Yes, that's it. 3 1/5 would be perfect but they don't exist. I just ordered a ks lev with 4" travel.


    I do tons of reading and research before buying major components, so I'm confident I made a good choice. I still swear by gd reliability and cs, but one thing I had trouble with was hunting for that fixed middle position, usually at the worst time, disrupting my flow and focus. I was just waiting for one of these posts to stand the test of time through mutiple sources, this one looks promising. The fixed cable was a must have also.

    Thought it probably would be.

    Interesting that you found it difficult to hit the middle position, I always found the 1" down position very easy to find.

  14. #64
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    can anyone out there with a 4" drop turbo LP post measure the distance between the middle of the rail and the bottom of the wire extrusion part as shown in the picture? appreciate the help!!

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  15. #65
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    Having gone from the original Turbo to the LP, I find that it is much easier to find the middle position on the LP, and use it much more often now.

    One thing I have issues with is the seat clamp bolts snapping. I torque them to about 5nm and I've had two snap randomly after DH sessions. I've never had this issue with any other seatpost. Maybe 5nm is too much? Does anybody know what the specs are?

    Other than the bolts, I've never had a failure.

  16. #66
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    about 175mm
    Quote Originally Posted by chukulut View Post
    can anyone out there with a 4" drop turbo LP post measure the distance between the middle of the rail and the bottom of the wire extrusion part as shown in the picture? appreciate the help!!

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  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by chukulut View Post
    can anyone out there with a 4" drop turbo LP post measure the distance between the middle of the rail and the bottom of the wire extrusion part as shown in the picture? appreciate the help!!

    Name:  distance.JPG
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    Depends on the seattube angle...

    You're effectively drawing the adjacent of a triangle (which will change depending on the seat tube angle) - the hypotenuse can be measured (straight line between the points you mentioned) and that adjacent (the length you want) can be worked out with simple trigonometry...

    The angle at the bottom of that triangle (within this image) is 90 minus your quoted seattube angle... so you'd need the measured length of that piece from the bottom of the wire extrusion to the seatpost rail and your seattube angle.

    Adjacent (the value you're after) = cos(90-seattubeangle)*measured length.



    (If you're happier with exact figures... I don't have that particular post to make the measurement you'd need though - I have the classic).

  18. #68
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    Oh yeah. I measured a direct line from cable attachment to the center of the saddle rail. Not nearly as exact.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    Oh yeah. I measured a direct line from cable attachment to the center of the saddle rail. Not nearly as exact.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    So the measurement you took was straight down the middle of the post (from bottom of cable attachment to middle of saddle rail) rather than the vertical line drawn on that picture?



    (If so, that vertical line on the picture would be 155.9mm on a bike with a 73 degree seat angle; 153.1mm on a bike with a 71 degree seat angle).

  20. #70
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    Re: Gravity Dropper Turbo LP

    Quote Originally Posted by EnglishT View Post
    So the measurement you took was straight down the middle of the post (from bottom of cable attachment to middle of saddle rail) rather than the vertical line drawn on that picture?
    Yes. I suppose you could calculate the vertical with that measurement.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  21. #71
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    thanks jn35646 for the measurement!!
    and thanks for the trigonometry lesson EnglistT
    I should have drawn the line parallel to the seatpost, thats the
    length I was after. looks like I'd have problem fitting the 4" drop post on me bike

  22. #72
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    Old thread but I have a GD Turbo for about 2 monhts now. On a recent ride it became really hard to get the lever to to activate the spring in either up or down position, whether weighting or unweighting. The seat position felt odd, it turned out the seat tilted upwards. I leveled the seat and then everything started working right immediately. With the seat tilted upwards maybe the weighting force was not in the right direction, it was much harder to get it to return then to depress.

    Overall, I love the post, but the biggest aggravation is the lever, finding a good position and it seems inconsistent at times. Hopefully the seat tilting was just me not having it tight enough and not going to be an ongoing issue with the seat clamp.

  23. #73
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    It's hard to get even tension between the seat clamp bolts on slacker seat tube angles. The 'half-moon' component of the clamp will interfere with the aft bolt on these geometries. This is an known issue by the manufacturer. They told me that you can grind down the area that makes contact with the bolt, and that they are working on a revision to address this. Perhaps this is your issue?

  24. #74
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    What do you mean by slack? How many degrees?

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Old thread but I have a GD Turbo for about 2 monhts now. On a recent ride it became really hard to get the lever to to activate the spring in either up or down position, whether weighting or unweighting. The seat position felt odd, it turned out the seat tilted upwards. I leveled the seat and then everything started working right immediately. With the seat tilted upwards maybe the weighting force was not in the right direction, it was much harder to get it to return then to depress.

    Overall, I love the post, but the biggest aggravation is the lever, finding a good position and it seems inconsistent at times. Hopefully the seat tilting was just me not having it tight enough and not going to be an ongoing issue with the seat clamp.
    I have had mine for going on 2 years now and have had no issues with it at all like you are saying.

    I have a right hand lever and run it upside down on the left side of the bar and it works like a charm. Maybe give that a try.
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