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  1. #1
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    Gravity Dropper -- 1" or 2"??

    So I've narrowed my dropper choice down to a Gravity Dropper Turbo LP. The 27.2mm version I need can have a choice of intermediate drop of either 1" or 2" (along with the 4" drop).

    Does anyone have experience or jus' some common sense about choosing a 1" drop versus 2"?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonmustang View Post
    So I've narrowed my dropper choice down to a Gravity Dropper Turbo LP. The 27.2mm version I need can have a choice of intermediate drop of either 1" or 2" (along with the 4" drop).

    Does anyone have experience or jus' some common sense about choosing a 1" drop versus 2"?
    Get the 1".

    I have a GD Turbo, 1" + 4" drop. I rarely use the 1", I could see myself never using the 2" if I had it. I'm either climbing at max extension, or shredding with it dropped all the way down.

    It's a great post, you'll love it.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc D View Post
    Get the 1".

    I have a GD Turbo, 1" + 4" drop. I rarely use the 1", I could see myself never using the 2" if I had it. I'm either climbing at max extension, or shredding with it dropped all the way down.

    It's a great post, you'll love it.
    Just the insight I was hopin' for. Thanks!

  4. #4
    Braugh Bro.
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    I have a 2" one and like it. Full extension for road height, 2" drop for "trail" height, so gentle downhill/technical climbs, then full on shred mode. I use all 3 regularly.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333 View Post
    I have a 2" one and like it. Full extension for road height, 2" drop for "trail" height, so gentle downhill/technical climbs, then full on shred mode. I use all 3 regularly.
    Yea, that was the type of riding style I was imagining... full extension for climbing or cement, full drop for jumps and big downhills, and then either the 2" or the 1" for general trail riding... Perhaps I just ought to physically lower my non-dropper post by both increments and see which suits me. Guess I coulda thought of that before I posted, eh?

  6. #6
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    I went with the 1" and 3" drop. Tested my bike out on the street with seat lowered 1" and 2" below my max height, and the 2" drop felt too low to be useful.

    It's easy to try it out though. Just mark your max height, then mess around to figure out where the best dropped heights are.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skelldify View Post
    I went with the 1" and 3" drop. Tested my bike out on the street with seat lowered 1" and 2" below my max height, and the 2" drop felt too low to be useful.

    It's easy to try it out though. Just mark your max height, then mess around to figure out where the best dropped heights are.
    Same here. 1" is great for short tech climbs and rolling curvy singletrack. the 2" felt too low for the same conditions and the 3" is all i needed for the steepest and fastest parts.

    Never understood people needing 5"+ drops on these posts. Even though i want my saddle out of the way i still want to be able to use it for leverage and balance - with the saddle dropped 5" it's basically useless imo. Plus i still pedal with it dropped and with the saddle more than 3" down my knees end up higher than my hips at 12 o'clock which is super uncomfortable and actually harder on my legs for pedaling.

  8. #8
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    Yeah, I still pedal with mine dropped 3" sometimes. Like for a short pedaling section on a long dh. Like you said, it's also nice to still have it high enough to control the bike with it a bit. Much lower, and it'd be like not having a saddle.

  9. #9
    Keep on Rockin...
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    1" without question.

  10. #10
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    Two inches would be too much for most situations where minor drop is preferable, but full drop is not needed, IMO. I would only choose this setting when some pedaling is required, making full drop less than ideal. Two inch drop means very inefficient seated pedaling. If you've got to stand to pedal, may as well go full drop.

    As for the overall drop length: I always find that when making a high hop, my seat always hits me in the back side when bringing the back end of the bike up. My tush will always be the same height from the ground, which means that lesser drop limits the height of the rear wheel off the ground.

    Also, more drop is more room to absorb bigger hits with the legs. I ride 4" drop. Don't NEED any more, but wouldn't complain if I had it.

    Look at a DJ bike, and then an XC bike. The saddle height difference is dramatic. The bigger the drop, the closer to ideal you can get for jumps and efficient climbing in the same ride.

  11. #11
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    I have 1" and 3" GD, 2" and 4" AMP.

    I'd get 2". It comes in handy on the tech climb as it's still tall enough for pedaling and low enough to bail if needed. I can move around pretty well. Plus on the rolling singletrack 2" is awesome.

    However my favorite 27.2 dropper post is the i7r by KS.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skelldify View Post
    I went with the 1" and 3" drop. Tested my bike out on the street with seat lowered 1" and 2" below my max height, and the 2" drop felt too low to be useful.

    It's easy to try it out though. Just mark your max height, then mess around to figure out where the best dropped heights are.
    You know, that's good thinking -- it didn't even occur to me that I might not want the 4" drop. 3" might be fine. I have been meaning to practice improve my bunny hop and other helpful "tricks" though, so perhaps a big drop will suit me. Measure twice, buy once, eh?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllMountin' View Post

    As for the overall drop length: I always find that when making a high hop, my seat always hits me in the back side when bringing the back end of the bike up. My tush will always be the same height from the ground, which means that lesser drop limits the height of the rear wheel off the ground.

    Also, more drop is more room to absorb bigger hits with the legs. I ride 4" drop. Don't NEED any more, but wouldn't complain if I had it.

    Look at a DJ bike, and then an XC bike. The saddle height difference is dramatic. The bigger the drop, the closer to ideal you can get for jumps and efficient climbing in the same ride.
    This is a good point. There are absolutely certain times when the drop isn't mean to be a pedaling position at all -- it's meant to get the saddle completely out of the way.

  14. #14
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    I have a 125mm KS Lev, so I can choose any height I want. I find that I either drop it all of the way or about 1 inch. But trying your current post 1 and 2 inches lower is a great idea.

  15. #15
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    Gravity Dropper -- 1" or 2"??

    +1 for the KS lev.

    Skip the 3" drop especially when you can get 4"-5" get it. Nothing like the ability to drop lower and get the saddle out of the way.

  16. #16
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    I think it's best to have the lowest position have as much drop as possible. My lowest position is a 5" drop because i used the bike for (real) downhill trails and dirt jumps as well as trail riding.

  17. #17
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    Re: Gravity Dropper -- 1" or 2"??

    For me theres no point in infinite positions so a gravity droper turbo multi suits me fine

    Im using fully extended at + 5" for long climbs -1" drop for everything else and all the way down -5" for the big drops

    you know exactly what height youre going to be at when you push the button theres no farting about in between

  18. #18
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    I have a GD Turbo LP, 1 and 4 in drop. I debated the same thing for some time and went for the 1in. I'm happy with my decision as 1in is great for technical climbs and a bit of trail ups/downs. If a 1.5 option was available I would get that, but not the 2.
    One thing I regret is not getting down to 5in drop, It would have been better.

    I love my GD, it is ugly but just works. My friends riding Kronolog all have failures, KS Lev, one out of three has been having trouble, Reverb... Me and a guy with a classic have been happy and trouble free.

    I case you are not aware, if the drop does lenght not suit you, you can get that part from GD for $30 and get diffent drop lenghts.

  19. #19
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    Well, a couple days ago I ordered a GD Turbo LP with a 1" and 4" drop. I manually put my saddle all the way up, then 1" down, and sure enough it only took that 1" to get into a crouched sorta position, which should be fine for tech climbing, in-and-out-of-saddle riding, etc.

    FWIW, I went with the GD over a KS for a few reasons:
    *I like Made in USA stuff. It's kind of a sickness, I can't help myself.
    *Simple, reliable, been around forever
    *Cheaper
    *Seems like good customer service

    I'm sure the KS is a great seatpost too, but the "pros" of the GD satisfied more of my personal (and subjective) buying preferences.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonmustang View Post
    Well, a couple days ago I ordered a GD Turbo LP with a 1" and 4" drop. I manually put my saddle all the way up, then 1" down, and sure enough it only took that 1" to get into a crouched sorta position, which should be fine for tech climbing, in-and-out-of-saddle riding, etc.

    FWIW, I went with the GD over a KS for a few reasons:
    *I like Made in USA stuff. It's kind of a sickness, I can't help myself.
    *Simple, reliable, been around forever
    *Cheaper
    *Seems like good customer service

    I'm sure the KS is a great seatpost too, but the "pros" of the GD satisfied more of my personal (and subjective) buying preferences.

    Good move. You did the right thing. Been using a GD since they came out, but did go to a Spec Blacklite also, only because I prefer a setback. Otherwise would have stuck with the GD on all bikes.

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