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  1. #1
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    good 150/160/170mm all mountain frame

    Hi, I am looking to buy a new 150/160/170mm all mountain frame, probably second hand and something mid range not too expensive.
    I was thinking something along the lines of a spesh enduro, lapierre spicy. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

  2. #2
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    Take a look at the Titus El Guapo, it makes a great All-Mountain/trail bike, and it can be had a fantastic prices.

    Titus Bicycles US - El-Guapo

  3. #3
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    The enduro is a great bike ! I loved the one i had , it was a bit tough climbing with it but it was still doable . You first should decide what type of terrain your riding , then whats more important for you to climb up and bomb down the trail ? Finally whats your budget ? We need numbers .

  4. #4
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    Santa Cruz Nomad (expensive new, but can be found used)

    Marin Wolf Ridge

    Giant Reign/ReignX

  5. #5
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    Just bought a 2009 SX Trail II, 170mm F/R. Obviously, hours long climbs are not really an option but shorter stuff is very doable and I have not ridden anything that even comes as close to this on the down. Amazing small bump compliance, stays active in braking bumps, doesn't blow through the travel, this is the suspension I have been searching for.
    I hope this frame lasts me a while...

  6. #6
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    Mojo HD!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by luket666 View Post
    Hi, I am looking to buy a new 150/160/170mm all mountain frame, probably second hand and something mid range not too expensive.
    I was thinking something along the lines of a spesh enduro, lapierre spicy. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
    You need to be more specific on what you mean by "mid-range." Otherwise you're going to get nothing but high range bikes.

  8. #8
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well if your choosing between that much travel. . .

    Nice to see a new topic of discussion. Unless your dropping/jumping 5+feet on a regular basis, stick w/150mm of travel or less.

  9. #9
    Stand back
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    I like my '12 Enduro comp frame. With the stock rp2 shock, (and using the propedal lever) it climbed great and descended decently. The Pushed Monarch Plus I just installed takes away a little of the climbing prowess, but definitely makes better use of the 160mm on descents. I have not yet test ridden a Stumpy Evo, but I think if money were no object, that bike (carbon version) would be what I would ride for a trail bike. Of course if money were no object, then I'd also have a dh bike again, but the Enduro is not a bad compromise.
    Golden Bike Park

    Golden Connector Trails need your support!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailhore View Post
    Nice to see a new topic of discussion. Unless your dropping/jumping 5+feet on a regular basis, stick w/150mm of travel or less.
    Personally, I totally disagree. First of all, few people asking these kinds of questions are landing from 5+ feet often, if ever. Second, travel is not just for absorbing landings from heights...its really about stabilizing the rider as they are pinning it through chunder of all sorts. Also, 1/3 of that travel is used for sag and goes into keeping wheel contact as the ground drops away. This means with a typical 150mm bike if you are riding through 4" rocks you either use all the travel you have, or more likely you use some of it and take the rest of the hits with your body. That's fine, but it's not what everyone likes.

    I remember riding a 29lb 150mm bike back when most of my friends were riding full freeride bikes that were over 35lbs on the same trails. I got beat up keeping pace, but I could easily out climb them. Back then, I upgraded to a 170mm travel Reign X that I kept under 33 lbs and was keeping up and still climbing like a goat. For trail riding lately, I've been riding a 150mm bike that equally strong, but a few lbs lighter. On the flats and climbing I was a tiny bit slower on the longer travel bike, on the descents (especially with lots of rock gardens) I was slightly faster. The difference was that I was spending less time pumping small rocks and roots and instead focused on the larger features of the trail and hitting those features with more confidence and grace. I was just less rattled. The extra 13mm of positive travel and 7mm of negative travel made a noticeable difference.

    I'd say it depends what you want to really do with the bike and what your local trails are like. Are they buff, mostly 1-2" rocks/roots, or filled with babyheads. That 170mm bike, beefed up, served as a nice backup in whistler one year too. There are definitely lines I did on that bike, I wouldn't do on my current 150mm bike, even though I'm sure the bike can take it without breaking.

    Here's a great deal that's worth considering...Pivot Cycles Firebird - Go-Ride.com and you get full warranty

  11. #11
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    I am looking for something geared more towards descending but also be able to climb half decent. I will be riding trail centers and home made dh trails I've built that are not that gnarly and don't require a dh bike.

    I have about up to 600 pounds to spend on a second hand frame, so I think I'll get something like spec enduro, spicy or marin attacktrail.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by luket666 View Post
    I am looking for something geared more towards descending but also be able to climb half decent. I will be riding trail centers and home made dh trails I've built that are not that gnarly and don't require a dh bike.

    I have about up to 600 pounds to spend on a second hand frame, so I think I'll get something like spec enduro, spicy or marin attacktrail.
    You could also probably find a used Pivot, Ibis, Yeti, Ventana, or Turner frame for that price.

    I'm a big fan of the Fox 36 or would even consider the Lyrik coil again (20mm TA forks). If you find a frame that can take a 36, you can adjust the travel internally.

    If you want it to descend better, also include the head angle. If you want to stick with Specialized, the Stumpjumper EVO might meet your needs. I love the geo of that bike. It was in serious consideration before I got my Ventana.

    The ability to climb is a functionality of the suspension implementation (NOT the design). Generally, the more travel in the rear though, the more difficult is it to climb.

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