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  1. #1
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    Was this a fair purchase?

    I have bought a used 2013 Trek 3500 series 3 for $85. The bike is in fair condition and has the following problems. The back rim is bent/warped slightly. It was hard for me to notice it, since the missing 7 spokes already made the rim look bent along with the flat tire. The chain was just a little rusty, but I am unsure about the derailleurs condition. Another thing I'm unsure of is there is nothing in between the crank arm and the bottom bracket. Suspension may need to be serviced.

    Right now I'm ordering some evapo rust to help clean the chain, 7 spokes, and possibly thinking of a way to repair the rim, or just order a new one.
    Here are the pictures.



    Was this a fair purchase?-26235368_299344163803698_1586013455_n.jpgWas this a fair purchase?-26551082_299344130470368_1616934537_n.jpgWas this a fair purchase?-26612935_299344140470367_537147341_o.jpg

  2. #2
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    It's a square taper bottom bracket and crank, that's the way they look.

    Do your best to true the rear wheel with the new spokes otherwise look for something used and in good shape.

    I'd say ship the de rusting of the chain and just buy a new one but if it's really stretched a new chain would just cause more issues.

    Should be a great bike to learn maintenance skills,

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the advice, I'm ordering a Z51 chain. Right now I'm figuring out which type of spokes to get.

    Also I couldn't believe I didn't notice this, but the cogs are missing on the derailleur and I'm not too sure if its functional based on how that metal piece is sticking out. Also checked the suspension fork and its missing one of those screws that holds the bottom in place.

    The Trek did although come with a few upgrades such as lockout grips which feel nice, and disc brakes. Not sure if the complete wheels are original. The frame looks like a 2014 version actually but it has the 2013 seat.

  4. #4
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    It will likely turn out that you take a slight beating money wise on this project to get it ship shape, but you are getting an education, and there is value in that. I think you could have scored a 'garage queen' for $200 to $250, and rehab'ing the bike you have will probably meet or exceed that if you need a shop to do the work

    As for the rear wheel, if there's a chance that the rim is bent, trying to fix it is throwing good money after bad. Get a replacement wheel.

    The thing you should know about the Trek 3500 (and all 3xxx and 4xxx series Treks) is that they are designed for more casual riding than they are for aggressive riding. The top tube lengths on these bikes are significantly shorter than more performance oriented bikes that are listed as being the same size.

  5. #5
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    I found a great video on how to replace a rim thats cost effective. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuWQCHUVdCE&t=82s

    My rims are 36 hole, and 26''. Do you know some good places that sell only rims at a good deal?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by LewisDoes View Post
    I found a great video on how to replace a rim thats cost effective. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuWQCHUVdCE&t=82s

    My rims are 36 hole, and 26''. Do you know some good places that sell only rims at a good deal?
    No but if you're going to buy new rims buy new spokes too. I wouldn't trust the remaining spokes too much if seven of them broke.

  7. #7
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    If seven spokes are broken then the wheel is almost certainly trash. You could relace a new rim to the hub (with all new spokes and nipples if you want a solid build IMO), but it's a low end hub so that is really not worth the hassle... And you should not try to build your first wheel off a youtube video anyway, it's a specific skill that takes experience to master.

    You are also missing both jockey wheels and the other plate for the derailleur cage... You're just gonna need to buy a new derailleur.

    A little rust on a chain doesn't bother me, it's the wear of the chain that you worry about and that can be checked with a tool that any shop will have. If it's not worn, just get some lube on it and the rust will work itself out.

    Just from what I can see in photos, and there is probably more going on given the condition of what I can see, it'd cost at least $150-$200 for me to get that bike running if you brought it into the shop where I work... And that'd be to get it running at the quality level of a 3500, which isn't a great bike to begin with.

    For $85 I don't think you got ripped off, but if you were hoping to use the bike to get into mountain biking I'd think twice before putting the money into fixing it. ~$400 will get you a much better bike (Trek Marlin, Cannondale Catalyst for instance) brand new and you could end up pretty damn close to that number by the time you get it running.

  8. #8
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    re-sell this hunk of junk on CL and buy something that costs around 250 dollars. You're throwing good money after bad trying to get this thing working. There are plenty of diamond in the rough bikes on CL in the 200-400 range... This is not one of them, hell, it's not even a diamond in the rough in the 0-100 dollar range.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    re-sell this hunk of junk on CL and buy something that costs around 250 dollars. You're throwing good money after bad trying to get this thing working. There are plenty of diamond in the rough bikes on CL in the 200-400 range... This is not one of them, hell, it's not even a diamond in the rough in the 0-100 dollar range.
    The truth is painful sometimes.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus View Post
    The truth is painful sometimes.
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    Better now than $400 in upgrades later.

  11. #11
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    Not sure of your mechanical abilities but bring this into a shop for repairs will run you several hundred dollars. If your comfortable with it, I'd make it into a DIY extra bike.

    Find a functional rear wheel on ebay - 26 inch wheels should be inexpensive and easy to come by. Then find a rear derailleur - I assume 2013 Trek is running a 9 spd which also shouldn't be expensive. Also might want to think about new cables and housing which may run your $20.

    You'll probably spend a bit more on parts than you did on the bike but you've have a functional extra bike and you'll sleep well knowing you saved a bike from rotting away in a garage forever.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    Then find a rear derailleur - I assume 2013 Trek is running a 9 spd which also shouldn't be expensive.
    A Trek 3500 is more than likely 7 or 8 speed. Even so, this is a used bike money pit.

    If you buy a used bike, have a knowledgeable friend go with you to help to separate the mountain bikes from the mountain bike shaped objects.

  13. #13
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    Fair purchase, yes. The price you paid is well worth it for parts you can salvage from it. I suggest picking up another $75 bike with parts that can transfer over to make a complete working bike.
    We're all on the same ship, and it's sinking.

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the responses guys, I've decided to keep this as an extra bike. I put a spare wheel I had from one of my old mountain bikes, the rim is double walled but unsure about any other specs. Apart from that I took the pulley wheels and part of the cage off another bike I have that I don't use and the spring that connects the cage and the derailleur seems damaged and doesn't have tension, I could replace those and the whole cage with pulleys but since this is already a relatively cheap derailleur should I just get a new one at this point?

    I cleaned off the majority of the rust on the chain, and re-lubed it. Only other thing that needs service is the shocks which happen to be coil. When I compress it, it will sorta get stuck. And If I compress it hard it makes a ding sound, that doesn't sound too good, same with adjusting the pre-load knob if I turn it too much which I really haven't even turned it near all the way.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LewisDoes View Post
    Thanks for the responses guys, I've decided to keep this as an extra bike. I put a spare wheel I had from one of my old mountain bikes, the rim is double walled but unsure about any other specs. Apart from that I took the pulley wheels and part of the cage off another bike I have that I don't use and the spring that connects the cage and the derailleur seems damaged and doesn't have tension, I could replace those and the whole cage with pulleys but since this is already a relatively cheap derailleur should I just get a new one at this point?

    I cleaned off the majority of the rust on the chain, and re-lubed it. Only other thing that needs service is the shocks which happen to be coil. When I compress it, it will sorta get stuck. And If I compress it hard it makes a ding sound, that doesn't sound too good, same with adjusting the pre-load knob if I turn it too much which I really haven't even turned it near all the way.
    Just get a 26 inch rigid fork. Servicing a 5 year old, low end suspension for isn't worth it.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LewisDoes View Post
    Thanks for the responses guys, I've decided to keep this as an extra bike. I put a spare wheel I had from one of my old mountain bikes, the rim is double walled but unsure about any other specs. Apart from that I took the pulley wheels and part of the cage off another bike I have that I don't use and the spring that connects the cage and the derailleur seems damaged and doesn't have tension, I could replace those and the whole cage with pulleys but since this is already a relatively cheap derailleur should I just get a new one at this point?

    I cleaned off the majority of the rust on the chain, and re-lubed it. Only other thing that needs service is the shocks which happen to be coil. When I compress it, it will sorta get stuck. And If I compress it hard it makes a ding sound, that doesn't sound too good, same with adjusting the pre-load knob if I turn it too much which I really haven't even turned it near all the way.
    Like the above says, you aren't gonna service that for a number of reasons. Best thing to do is just clean it really well, which will help with the stiction a bit.

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