try anything on a bike
experience with Haro Xeon?
I am looking at getting back into the saddle....finally. I have for the past 5 years or so only been riding road. I have a Giant TCR1 with full ultegra, great bike, love it to death. I use to ride a 2005 giant trance 2. It was a wonderful bike. However it was stolen off my bike rack, even tho it was locked properly, while I was in a resturant...just bad luck I suppose. Anyways that was a 4 inch travel bike. I live in michigan, so not much need for that since its almost all XC riding around here, but I do travel to NC regularly with the bike to ride, so i want something versitile. Looking for the same kind of thing, but not willing to spend 2-3 grand for a new bike again, so I am craigslisting it up! Found a 2009 Haro Xeon on there. Its in great condition, seems like it will climb well. Guy is asking 750, so im going to try to get it for 5-600. Has most of what i want, but does anyone have any experience with Haro? I know they build one heck of a BMX, but do they have what it takes to build a decent FS all-mountain?
Im good with a wrench too, and full of knowledge, hope to help the forum out as much as possible. Worked at the LBS for 3 years as a wrench, and have do all my own maintence/builds. Have owned many bikes over the years but am keeping it to just 2 now for the wife and little one.
I rode a xeon for about a year and I'd say that it was pretty good all mountain bike, with its own + and - like any bike. I did it all on this bike from dirt jumping to lift service to all day epic xc rides and I would say that it does everything well, but nothing great. It pedals really well as long as you are smooth and don't "break" through the URT portion of the travel. Its got relatively steep angles and the bike has a lot of "pop" so its a fun lively ride that wants you to jump off or over every root. The suspension is a modified vpp that preforms like a URT for the beginning of the travel then becomes a more of a single pivot around the bb for the second half. This means that the bike is relatively stiff and poppy, and climbs well in the 1st bit of travel, then looses efficiency but gains small bump performance for the second half of the stroke. This makes for pretty fun descents if its not too technical, because when you push into the bike it becomes relatively active and when unweighted it it pops well. I would find myself jumping into and out of rock gardens as it would be more active once you were about 2-3" into the travel.
But this also has its issues, because the suspension is pretty stiff at first, in more technical areas with sustained rock gardens, and/or low speeds the suspension remain relatively stiff and does a very poor job of small bump performance. Also when seated in the suspension became much softer for the URT portion of the travel and made it difficult to get a consistent feel. (when measuring sag I would usually set me seated sag at about 20%, but my standing sag would be closer to 10%) Also the rear end is not very stiff due to the complex linkage which is not that noticeable but, doesn't seem to track that well through corners.
One last thing that may be good or bad depending on your riding style: The geometery is a bit old school with a 69 degree head tube angle and relatively high bb when riding. This means its pretty nimble for a all mountain bike, but doesn't have the in the same performance on corners, or the "in the bike," mini-dh, feel get from the more slack and low bikes on the market.