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  1. #1
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    dt swiss ex 471 rim anyone?

    thinking of getting these put on my hubs instead of new wheels.

    looks pretty fine for a light wide option. 25/30mm inner/outer at 471g for 26"

    I assume there's nothing out there on them because they are new? i really have no idea how long they've been out but google is not helping

  2. #2
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    only other thing i found is that Jared Graves is using them this year for EWS...so it must just be the new hotness from DT. Good enough for me; I'll post up later this summer it/when I have some time on them

  3. #3
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    I just laced a wheelset with EX471 rims. DT350 straight pull hubs (28H), Sapim 2-1.8-2 straight pull spokes.
    The rims come with the PHR washers and squorx alloy nipples. It is nice that they give you a couple of extras.

    The wheels have been pretty strong in the month that I've used them. No need to retrue. I weigh 190lbs and ride a Pivot Mach 5.7, I consider myself an agressive rider but I take care of my equipment.

    I purchased the rims because they were the only "AM" rims in 28H that were wide enough. These are the same rims used in the Spline One EX 1501.

    I struggled lacing the wheels due to the squorx nipples. 1) You can't use a nipple driver to start with all the spokes threaded evenly in the nipples. So it is harder to adjust hops. 2) The nipples are very tight as they are the "lock" version so I needed to hold the spokes with pliers to avoid them from twisting. I used WS spoke prep in addition but perhaps it was not needed.

    I'm sure I'll be very happy with my wheelset and I would recommend them if you are stuck with 28H. Otherwise I think there are better options for 32H.

    Good luck.

  4. #4
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    What would you have gone with for 32h rim? I think highly of DT swiss and the price and spec all seem to add up to a pretty sensible option.

    Earlier I had been (and still am to some degree) thinking of i9 enduro, but i have had such good experience with both DT and hope in the past...plus it would come in less expensive and hope has new 40 point rear hubs out now

  5. #5
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    I would consider Flow EX, WTB i23 or i25. My friends that ride them are super happy and they take abuse. I like the fact that you can use standard brass nipples.

    I'm with you on the Hope hubs. They are great for the price now that they come with the 40 points.

    I don't want to sound like I don't like the EX471 rims. They are very well made, quality is top notch. I just rather use parts that I can get at any LBS.

    I hear the i9 wheels are great, especially the hubs. But I would hate to stop riding for a week or two while I wait for a replacement spoke.

  6. #6
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    I hear ya. It's just that the old flows were more than strong enough for me so I figure shaving a hair of wt would be cool instead of adding a hair. Both are wide. I'm not going to build them myself; I'll see what my preferred builder has to say about the nipple situation.

    Thanks

  7. #7
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    Look at the wheel he's holding in the end of this, just saying.

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  8. #8
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    Was about to mention gwin, hardup beat me to it.
    He just rode a dh track including the rock garden racing line on the rim. I think these will be very popular. I know for sure im keen on them.

  9. #9
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    are those 471s or FR600s that Gwin's using? Either way, SUPER impressive that a rim can take that kind of abuse.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by charging_rhinos View Post
    are those 471s or FR600s that Gwin's using? Either way, SUPER impressive that a rim can take that kind of abuse.
    He was running ex 471

  11. #11
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    Yeah that run was more epic than a wold cup win! Crazy a sub 500g rim coped with that. I thought he was running the 600, too, but definitely the 471. Sucked for Gwin, but DT Swiss couldn't ask for better marketing.

    I'm still not on em yet; when I was ready to buy my LBS couldn't get them at the time and haven't checked back in yet

  12. #12
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    Anyone else build these up with other spokes?

  13. #13
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    I was really debating rims for my gravity rig, then found this thread. I ordered the 471s in 28h to go with 350s hubs and Competition straight pull spokes.

    I'm currently killing myself over aluminum vs brass nipples. The rims come with the squorx aluminum nipples with washers, so I'm thinking that if DT thinks those are good then they're good, but the brass ones are less than 50g more for a 28h set, so why not?

    I'll post pics of the build, but UPS has the kit right now.

    SO EXCITED

  14. #14
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    wtb kom is now available in 25mm inner width. Claimed weight of 420g.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by drootang View Post
    wtb kom is now available in 25mm inner width. Claimed weight of 420g.
    I have no appreciation for this in reality, but I would think at that weight there may be a compromise in strength. If they are somehow magically built like a tank and retain that weight, sign me up!

    Mike, why did you go 28h vs. 32? I would think for gravity, 32 would be the thing to do. I'm not saying you should have done 32, I was just curious. If you could get away with the 28 and still be stiff enough for DH, that'd be freaking awesome! Also, which Comps did you go with, the 1.8 or 2.0? There's a pretty decent weight difference between the two.

    Please post up when you get them set up! I'm really surprised there hasn't been more buzz about these rims after the Gwin thing and knowing Jared Graves uses them on his EWS rig.
    I don't want to be a total lemming and use the logic that "Celebrity X uses it, so I should to." That being said, those 2 dudes ride harder than I ever will. It would seem if it's tough enough for them, it'd be a rim that should last me a good while with more pedestrian AM riding.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by tokarsky268 View Post
    I have no appreciation for this in reality, but I would think at that weight there may be a compromise in strength. If they are somehow magically built like a tank and retain that weight, sign me up!

    Mike, why did you go 28h vs. 32? I would think for gravity, 32 would be the thing to do. I'm not saying you should have done 32, I was just curious. If you could get away with the 28 and still be stiff enough for DH, that'd be freaking awesome! Also, which Comps did you go with, the 1.8 or 2.0? There's a pretty decent weight difference between the two.
    WTB claims the KOM is a super slick alloy that allows them to use less material.

    In my experience as a mechanical engineer, I'm thinking it's probably more of a heat treatment thing, but probably a little of both.

    I went 28 because I really wanted to use straight spokes (not j-bend). I don't know anyone who makes a 32-hole straight pull hub. I went with the double butted competition straight-pull 2.0:1.8. So they are 1.8 in the middle.

    I'm about to order the brass squorx nipples, but I have a whole bin of normal brass non-squorx nipples. Does anyone have experience using normal nipples with these rims? Washers? They come with supposedly fancy washers and spherical interface squorx nipples, not sure if it's snake oil or a real requirement for the rim drilling.

  17. #17
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    The squorx nipples are already included with the rim and they are mandatory to use because of the interface with the washers and rim

  18. #18
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    Hmm

    They include aluminum squorx, but offer brass. Anyone have thoughts?

  19. #19
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    Look on wheelbuilder.com. They have a variety of choices including brass( also colors if you care).

  20. #20
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    I would never use aluminium nipples on a wheel.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikebowyer View Post
    I'm currently killing myself over aluminum vs brass nipples. The rims come with the squorx aluminum nipples with washers, so I'm thinking that if DT thinks those are good then they're good, but the brass ones are less than 50g more for a 28h set, so why not?

    I'll post pics of the build, but UPS has the kit right now.

    SO EXCITED
    so much for this BS. I just received the rims. They came with the alloy nipples, but no washers. The documentation that comes with them says you must use the supplied washers, but they were not supplied. Each rim was in a sealed dt box with instructions and nipples, and a warning to build them only with the washers.

    This sucks. I emailed dt but don't expect an answer during the weekend. Hoped to have wheels by now. Nope.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikebowyer View Post
    so much for this BS. I just received the rims. They came with the alloy nipples, but no washers. The documentation that comes with them says you must use the supplied washers, but they were not supplied. Each rim was in a sealed dt box with instructions and nipples, and a warning to build them only with the washers.


    This sucks. I emailed dt but don't expect an answer during the weekend. Hoped to have wheels by now. Nope.

    Boo!

  23. #23
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    Why dont you contact the shop, they should help you out.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyvG View Post
    Why dont you contact the shop, they should help you out.
    I am the shop fortunately/unfortunately. Family owned by my family.

    Just had had an obvious idea, does anyone have details or specs or pictures of these washers? I can't even find them for sale anywhere!

    If they're just standard steel or brass washers I can make it happen, but dt even prints it ON THE RIM that you have to use them.

  25. #25
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    then I would expect you to have a agent/representative at DT swiss that you could call/mail about the missing washers. you sure they aren't in the bag with the nipples or taped somewhere in the box or whatever?

    The washers are curved and perhaps shaped even more to fit the nipples and rims
    dt swiss ex 471 rim anyone?-20130419-104159.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dt swiss ex 471 rim anyone?-dtswiss_spline1_phr_sqourx.jpg  


  26. #26
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    Re: dt swiss ex 471 rim anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikebowyer View Post
    I am the shop fortunately/unfortunately. Family owned by my family.

    Just had had an obvious idea, does anyone have details or specs or pictures of these washers? I can't even find them for sale anywhere!

    If they're just standard steel or brass washers I can make it happen, but dt even prints it ON THE RIM that you have to use them.
    Contact the DT service center directly. They are very helpful.
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  27. #27
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    I emailed the dt service center. But I want to contact my distributer (a really big one) to alert them that they are sending out rims with "death may occur if you build these" all over them.

    I'm sure it'll all work out. Thanks for the pictures!

    The boxes did have these empty bags taped to the inside. The manuals and nipples were included in the boxes, but the taped in bag was empty and had been either scissor or knife cut before the boxes were sealed.



    I'm very thankful for the mtbr community here. I may have just gotten Home Depot washers possibly incuring death.

  28. #28
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    I contacted DT about these rims and the availability of brass squorx nips. They got back to me quickly and said that they aren't available, and that even DT didn't have any. That's a bit of a bummer.

  29. #29
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    So we have a downhill rim that a person cannot build within warranty with brass nipples?

    Come on DT, I hope we can all figure this out.

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    Was just contacted by the DT international sales manager. I have a feeling this is going to work out fine.

    I wonder how bad shipping will be on those nipples to the U.S.?

    Edit, just checked, (60) of them will cost $58 USD shipped. I think I'll roll the dice on the aluminum ones. Damn.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikebowyer View Post
    Was just contacted by the DT international sales manager. I have a feeling this is going to work out fine.

    I wonder how bad shipping will be on those nipples to the U.S.?

    Edit, just checked, (60) of them will cost $58 USD shipped. I think I'll roll the dice on the aluminum ones. Damn.

    Wow. Yeah, I'd roll the dice too. Hopefully by the time I'm ready for a build, they'll be stateside and more reasonable.

  33. #33
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    I dropped a washer inside the rim while lacing them up. I figured I could get it out later. It was a PIA! I also soaked the rim in a tub to try & track down a really slow leak. Stupid mistake.I now had water in the rim.
    I wish I had searched for a good driver instead of using a spoke wrench. I wrecked 2 nipples but they did provide extras.

  34. #34
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    I got ahold of my supplier, they had some washers they mailed to me. I'll post pics once I get the build going. Out on a trip for thanksgiving so the washers might already be in my mailbox.

    They do not have access to the brass nipples, sucks. I guess if DT insists you use the aluminum ones they must be acceptable. I'm not oiling the threads, I threaded a nipple onto a spoke and it tightens up as if there is some sort of sealant in the nipple threads.

  35. #35
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    Wow, glad I found this thread... I'm just starting to look at rims for dt swiss 350 hubs. Both hubs are thru axle- 15mm frt & 12mm rear.

    So far I really like the EX 471 but the aluminum nipples have me a little concerned...
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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by scheckler View Post
    Wow, glad I found this thread... I'm just starting to look at rims for dt swiss 350 hubs. Both hubs are thru axle- 15mm frt & 12mm rear.

    So far I really like the EX 471 but the aluminum nipples have me a little concerned...
    Mine went together just fine today.
    My one complaint is with Fox fork, shimano post adapter, shimano caliper, shimano saint rotor, and DT 350 hub, I somehow have a rotor outside of the adjustment range of the caliper. I hate the idea of filing the slot on a powder-coated caliper. At least its just a Deore. I was a little peeved that the rear hub decal didn't line up with the possible valve locations. You don't have lacing options with the straight-pulls. Kind of weird I think.
















  37. #37
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    The aluminum nipples and steel washers laced up very nicely. The aluminum has some sort of thread locker or other treatment, a pale pink little booger was created in the torx part of each nipple when the spoke threaded in.

    I chose to oil the washers, just a drop of auto synthetic oil in the little drugs-bag was all it took.

    The tubelessization went more smoothly than any I've done. The tape was just the right width, seems similar to Stan's. I used a pair of some old valves. The tires went on fine. My 8-year-old bottle of Stan's was funny, it had all kinds of info on how much to use for 1.7 or 1.8 tires, and 2.0s, then it just said "use two scoops for downhill tires", so I guess 27.5x2.4s are 2006 downhill. I used 3.5 ounces, who knows. The tires were *just* hard enough to put on that I felt good about it. The compressor just popped the beads, and no fluid even leaked out. I'm used to white bubbles around the valve etc, but nothing.











    wife's 21mm rims, same tires.

  38. #38
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    Ordered a set of ex 471 rims
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    Nice build. I have the same setup but am worried about Hub strength. How hard have you ridden on the 350 straight pulls?

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttchad View Post
    Nice build. I have the same setup but am worried about Hub strength. How hard have you ridden on the 350 straight pulls?
    Wheelies in the street so far. Headed to Ray's indoor on Monday though. I just hope I can get my brake drag figured out.

  41. #41
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    good luck! I gave up along time ago.

  42. #42
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    Hi, what about running this rims tubeless? Did the tires seats well and didn't the tires blows under the bead while riding? I am looking forward to your answer. Regards Tom

  43. #43
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    Tires will pop once the bead seats. It takes a great deal of effort to unseat them.I am using the bontrager xr4 tires only sealed the rims with duct tape. No fluid yet and they have not lost any air over the past week.

  44. #44
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    I've never had a set seat as nicely as these. I'm using Continental Mountain Kings. The DT tape was exactly the inner width of the rim (the wider part inside the hooks), and it went on well. The front held pressure without even being sauced around, and the rear is working up to it (still loses pressure over a week, but haven't ridden it a mile total yet).

    Very good results so far, more after I get some miles on it.

  45. #45
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    I have the EX 1501 Spline One wheel set. Which uses the same rim (EX 471) and have 28 spokes. The wheels are bombproof and tires are mounted tubeless very easy. I use Michelin Wild Grip'r Advanced 2.35. Lower pressure in the tires is no problem. Normally I run 1,5 bar front and 1,7 bar rear in XC usage. For "Enduro" I use 1,6 front and 1,8 rear. I'am 83 kg + 10 kg on clothing and backpack.

    With my rear wheel I hit a hidden concrete irrigation gutter quit hard. It was in a descend with +/- 40 km/h. I couldn't stop in the descend, after the descend i check my wheel. I only lost a little bit of air, the rim had no visual damage and was still straight.

  46. #46
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    I've been running 26er 471's for four months, they taken a few direct hits to the hook. There is a scratch at the point of contact, but no deformation to the hook. I've cracked 5 carbon rims in the last year this way, and am impressed by these alloy rims.

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    Thanks for answers guys. I am deciding between these DT Swiss rims and WTB KOMs i25. I am still not sure if these DT rims are so good like I read here, because in the past almost of DT rims weren't so good and it is hard to believe, that DT makes so good rim like this now...

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by AMbikerCZ View Post
    Thanks for answers guys. I am deciding between these DT Swiss rims and WTB KOMs i25. I am still not sure if these DT rims are so good like I read here, because in the past almost of DT rims weren't so good and it is hard to believe, that DT makes so good rim like this now...
    Perhaps this video will show that DT Swiss did their homework for these rims:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUoCSzVmhhQ

  49. #49
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    As impressive as that is, it probably flattened everything out. I would think if it held it's shape, DT would be plastering close up pictures of this rim everywhere.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by tokarsky268 View Post
    As impressive as that is, it probably flattened everything out. I would think if it held it's shape, DT would be plastering close up pictures of this rim everywhere.
    I think the point is that the wheel didn't buckle. We all expect the rim will have to be replaced.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikebowyer View Post
    I think the point is that the wheel didn't buckle. We all expect the rim will have to be replaced.
    Still an impressive feat nonetheless.


    Noticed this morning that 3/11 of these bikes are running 471s. Seems like they are legit.

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    Last edited by tokarsky268; 12-14-2014 at 06:09 AM.

  52. #52
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    I'm looking into buying these rims (26; 32h). My only question is about tubeless. I would rather go to TCS bead i25, but I saw that some of you got TL working with a duct tape. Is it still ok? Bulletproof TL? Easy installation? I want to know that because I don't want to waste 80Ä on tubeless kit, especially because I had same kit for my old Bontragers for 20Ä so I'm looking to go ghetto. Thanks.

    Damn. Second question.

    Squorx, what about tools for them, any cheap solutions or regular nipple tool will work?

  53. #53
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    I used a layer of the thin packing tape with the string in it. Just to cover the spoke holes. I then made one loop with the duct tape just wide enough to cover the entire width but not run up the rim wall. 1/2 a scoop of stans. I have not had to add air in over 7 weeks! I have worried about water entering around the spoke & maybe causing the tape to peel or leak. I will let you know if that ever happens.

  54. #54
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    I wish I could have found a nut driver but ended up using a spoke wrench. I did destroy 2 nipples but they did come with extras.

  55. #55
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    My recent build with the DT Swiss EX 471 29 rim is for a 250lb cross country rider. The rim has an excellent finish with a tough anodized surface. It is not described by DT Swiss as hard-anodized, but looks like it is.

    The outside measures 29.6mm wide by 21mm deep with a 25mm internal width. The rim is v-shaped with an approximately 45 degree angle between horizontal providing nearly equal strength laterally and vertically.

    Actual weight: 513g
    Weight of 32 washers: 9g
    Measured ERD with washers: 599.7mm
    Measured width: 29.6mm
    Measured internal width: 25mm
    Measured depth: 21mm

    The bead hook is very minimal similar to NoTubes rimsí. Reducing the hook in this way allows a weight savings while still providing some security to the tire bead. On the inside of the rim is a horizontal bead seat and rounded center channel similar to a Notubes rim. There is no bead-lock on this rim like a UST rim would have. The inside of the rim is nearly identical to a Notubes Flow EX rim except with a slightly higher sidewall. The sidewall height from the bead seat to the top is 5.25mm versus 3.75mm for a Flow EX. This taller sidewall will slightly reduce the width of a given tire when compared to the Flow EX, but also provide more security for the tire bead in holding the tire on under higher inflation pressures or hard impacts.

    I built the 32h rims to White Industries M16 disc hubs. I used Sapim Strong Spokes and the nipple washers included with the rims. Instead of using the included Squorx nipples I used Sapim Polyax Black Alloy nipples. The rims build very easily and produce a very true wheel. The max tension of the drive side rear wheel spokes and disc side front is 125kgf.

    I measured the bead diameter of the rim to be about 622.5mm when bare. After built up and tensioned to 125kgf I measured the bead diameter to be about 621.8. So the diameter shrunk about 0.7mm when built.

    I installed one layer of DT Swiss Tubeless-ready tape and Stanís Notubes 44mm valves. I installed two tires on these rims for test:

    1. Brand new Tubeless Ready Continental X-King Protection 29 x 2.4. The tire mounted by hand relatively easily. I attempted to inflate in with my Topeak Joe Blow Turbo pump, but was unsuccessful. I did not try soapy water. I then used a compressor and the tire easily inflated and snapped forcefully onto the bead seats. The tire casing measures only 56.35mm (2.2in) in width at 30 psi, so Continental is not too accurate in this respect.
    2. Brand new Tubeless Ready Continental Mountain King 29 x 2.4. The tire mounted easily by hand. It was looser than the X-King on the same rim so it took a few attempts to inflate with a compressor. The tire snapped into the bead firmly. I did not use soapy water. The tire casing measured 57.4mm (2.3in) when inflated to 30 psi. A little smaller than advertised.

    I you are using continental Tubeless Ready tires I recommend using two layers or more of tubeless tape to increase the diameter of the inside of the rim and. This makes the tire a little tighter and easier to inflate.

    In my experience UST tires and some other tubeless ready tires such as WTB TCS, GEAX TNT, and Hutchinson Tubeless ready have much smaller beads and will only require one layer of tape.

    The spoke tension dropped about 25kgf when either of these tires was seated onto the rim. This is due to the compression of the rim from the Kevlar tire bead. As the tire bead stretches over time the compression of the tire bead will become less and the tension will increase a little with the tire mounted.
    Original Tension Drive side: 125kgf
    Tension after tire is seated: 100kgf

    Weight with two layers of DT Swiss tubeless tape and Stanís 44mm valves:
    Front: 965g
    Rear: 1090g

    Iíve seen this rim on several downhill bikes and it is valued for its strength and relatively light weight when compared to traditional downhill rims. This rim is a great choice for larger rides or anyone looking for a tough rim for all-mountain or enduro use.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dt swiss ex 471 rim anyone?-imag2881.jpg  

    dt swiss ex 471 rim anyone?-imag2874.jpg  


  56. #56
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    Very good post!

  57. #57
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    Just wanted to give an update on my EX471 rims after 6 months of use and abuse.
    They have been strong and are perfectly true... I laced them myself and I'm by no means an expert wheel builder. They now have good scratches but no dents or anything that I worry about.

    I'm happy with my setup. I do recommend them.

    Setup:
    Front: DT350 straight pull 28H. Sapim 2/1.8/2 spokes. Alloy squorx nipples and washers. I really struggled with the included nipples, perhaps with a torx driver things would have been a bit easier but I could not find it anywhere. Run tubes in them.
    Rear: Used brass nipples and the included washer to avoid the problems I had with the front wheel. Way easier to lace. Run tubes in them.
    *Note: Using 28H as I already had the hubs. That is the main reason I chose these rims.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by sancycling View Post
    Just wanted to give an update on my EX471 rims after 6 months of use and abuse.
    They have been strong and are perfectly true... I laced them myself and I'm by no means an expert wheel builder. They now have good scratches but no dents or anything that I worry about.

    I'm happy with my setup. I do recommend them.

    Setup:
    Front: DT350 straight pull 28H. Sapim 2/1.8/2 spokes. Alloy squorx nipples and washers. I really struggled with the included nipples, perhaps with a torx driver things would have been a bit easier but I could not find it anywhere. Run tubes in them.
    Rear: Used brass nipples and the included washer to avoid the problems I had with the front wheel. Way easier to lace. Run tubes in them.
    *Note: Using 28H as I already had the hubs. That is the main reason I chose these rims.

    I just want to confirm, you're saying that you run tubes in them, not You should run tubes in them! Correct?

  59. #59
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    Sorry if there was any confusion with my message. I'm using tubes by choice that has nothing to do with this particular rim. I see so many of my "tubeless" friends struggling and I don't want to deal with the mess. I have not tried to run them tubeless but I don't see why they wouldn't work as expected.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by sancycling View Post
    Sorry if there was any confusion with my message. I'm using tubes by choice that has nothing to do with this particular rim. I see so many of my "tubeless" friends struggling and I don't want to deal with the mess. I have not tried to run them tubeless but I don't see why they wouldn't work as expected.
    Gotcha. Thanks for clearing that up.

  61. #61
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    Just put in an order at my LBS for the EX 471s. I managed to nickel and dime my way into the funds for the build and I am pumped! I've never gone tubeless, so between lighter rims, stiffer rims, lighter hubs, faster engagement, a custom build, and no tubes, I'm hoping to really notice a difference

  62. #62
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    29er here. Here is how light wheelset with this rims could be:

    FONT: DT 350 SP 15mm, IS, DT EX471 28h, Pillar PSR TB2016 spokes, DT brass nipples (no squirox), 856 g.



    REAR: DT 350 SP 142X12, IS, 36t star ratchet upgrade, DT EX471 28h, Pillar PSR TB2016 spokes, DT brass nipples (no squirox), 975 g.



    Without power tape and valves.
    Basically DT EX 1501 wheelset for a half of price.

  63. #63
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    Where did you get your 36t star ratchet upgrade? what did it cost ya?

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    I bought them locally for ~$45 for gears and DT grease.

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    You must have some good shops around? I cannot find them for less than a 100!

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    Hi people,

    Very nice topic!

    I want to change my wheelset (actual is WTB ST i23 with GT hubs, stock stuff) and they are heavy!

    I want to notice the difference, so after a big investigation I was thinking in this brand.

    First option, the DT Swiss EX 501 Spline One, complete wheelset, or piece by piece.

    I was wondering the Ex471 Rims, but about the hubs, there is a big difference between 240s and 350s, what do you think? the extra money for 240s is nice or the 350 are enough?

    I have one GT Force 2014, and my type of riding is All Mountain and Enduro, some small jumps, rockgardens, etc, not an agressive rider, but not like a princess.

    Because is a large amount of money, I would like to have good wheels to keep in the future.

    Thanks!

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    for the price of 240's I would rather have king or I9's. 350's have 240 internals but the front you cannot change. The rear you can get adaptors for 10x135, 12x135 142 150 etc. Hadley is another option once you start talking 1100 and up.

    As for the rims, I just swapped on an old nevegal on with no effort. On my Stan Arches I would atleast need soap & 10 minutes with a hand pump to seat the bead.

  68. #68
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    Not sure if You can go with 150 on rear.
    Had a chance to talk with local DT distributor and he mentioned that 135 and 142 are fully compatibile as internnal axle has the same length (You only change external adaptors)

    150mm is different (longer axle) and for that You need to have another hub body.
    Moreover DT had 150mm hubs ony for IS brake mount.

    Quote Originally Posted by ttchad View Post
    for the price of 240's I would rather have king or I9's. 350's have 240 internals but the front you cannot change. The rear you can get adaptors for 10x135, 12x135 142 150 etc. Hadley is another option once you start talking 1100 and up.

    As for the rims, I just swapped on an old nevegal on with no effort. On my Stan Arches I would atleast need soap & 10 minutes with a hand pump to seat the bead.

  69. #69
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    Thanks to everybody for the detailed and helpful information. I'm curious if anyone else who has run tubes in the EX471s would share their experiences. Did you use TR tires or traditional style? I read about some issues running traditional (non-tubeless-ready) tires on Flow EXs, and I wonder if the same problems would happen with the 471s. Sounds like it's due to the tighter tolerance between bead and rim that is designed to work with TR, but not so great with traditional tubed-style beads. I'm not opposed to tubeless, but I want to start with tubes, have that option as a backup and not be as limited in tire choice. Any thoughts on fitting traditional tires on these?

    Quote Originally Posted by sancycling View Post
    Sorry if there was any confusion with my message. I'm using tubes by choice that has nothing to do with this particular rim. I see so many of my "tubeless" friends struggling and I don't want to deal with the mess. I have not tried to run them tubeless but I don't see why they wouldn't work as expected.

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