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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luigiugueto
    Those CanDiggle have adjustable geometry right?
    You should be fine.
    How much does she weigh?
    I haven't built it up yet, but I'm aiming for 36-38 lbs. We'll see though as funds are limited right now.

    Man that belt method looks sweet!

  2. #27
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    I don't find climbing to be the problem with a long fork....

    The reason that I insist on buying a long travel fork with adjustable travel are for thise times when you are riding very fast through twisty and technical trails. It makes a huge difference in how the bike handles.

  3. #28
    Brackish
    Reputation: carbuncle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by first.hander
    Does anyone climb with a 160mm fork? More specifically a marz. 66 rc3?

    Any opinions on this? I want to do freeride stuff, but don't want to shuttle with the "cheaters".

    My do-it-all bike is a Coiler D with a 150mm 66VF on it, it's a little loose on the steeper climbs, I have to move my weight up to keep the front wheel down, but overall it doesn't hold me back.

  4. #29
    Fort Valley = Gnarl Fest
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbuncle
    My do-it-all bike is a Coiler D with a 150mm 66VF on it, it's a little loose on the steeper climbs, I have to move my weight up to keep the front wheel down, but overall it doesn't hold me back.
    Word I have ridden with a 170mm Jr T and made it work. You are deff not going to win any races but you will get there. Also I'm not too ashaemd to push when necessary

  5. #30
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    It depends on bike geometry and even stem length.
    I felt no need for travel adjust on my Talas 36 when I rode a 90mm stem on my RFX, but do find myself using it quite a lot now for longer/steeper climbs with a 70mm stem.
    Hear no evil. See no evil. Speak no evil. (Do it !?!)

  6. #31
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    Dude I climb with totem air without any issues on my helius FR

  7. #32
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    I ride the 36 Talas and leave it in the 100mm setting most all the time unless heading down some extended downhill/freeride stuff. My bike set up is the Transition Covert with 5.5" of travel. The propedal on my rp23 is clutch on the climbs more so than the adjustable travel on my talas

  8. #33
    I dream on two wheels
    Reputation: Simonns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    Maybe I missed it, but what kind of bike are we talking about? A 66RC on a Stumpjumper FSR will likely create a crazy climbing geometry, but on another bike...?

    I don't use travel reduction adjustments on any of my long travel forks. A Van 36, an '06 66SL, and an '08 Nixon 160 Elite. All of these forks have been on a Nomad and older Bullits. Practically nothing seems to hinder the climbing ability of my Nomad with these forks, and the Bullits only tend to feel the higher geometry issue with the 66SL at its 170mm full extension. A super short wheelbase bike with relatively short chainstays will probably not be as good for climbing with a 160mm fork, but most others should be fine. Lean forward a bit more as the climb steepens to improve front wheel stability.
    Thank you, that is exactly what I wanted to hear. Im going to be putting my 170mm RC2X on my Nomad when it gets here and was wondering if it was going to affect climbing like it does on my Bullit.

    -Simon

  9. #34
    Neg reppers r my biatches
    Reputation: FoShizzle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero
    I found that TECHNIQUE is everything
    uhhh....wrong, its the parts; the more expensive the more you will enjoy your ride and the better your skillz will become

  10. #35
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    This thread hasn't helped my climbing but it's sure made me appreciate the erotic qualities of a football that much more.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buster Bluth
    This thread hasn't helped my climbing but it's sure made me appreciate the erotic qualities of a football that much more.
    you're a monster!!!

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