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  1. #1
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    Cannondale RZ 120 or Yeti ASR5?

    I've been riding my cannondale for over a year now and find myself wanting to replace everything and have done quite a bit already. I live in Florida and though we don't have mountains they do seem to build the trails with enough obstacles to make it challenging enough for all the mountain riders who come to visit climbing and descending are equally as important to me when choosing a bike. Basically I would like to know if it is worth building my frame or swap to a better platform? I like the yeti asr5 because it seems to fit the bill but I'm open to suggestions. I am going to build the new bike from the frame up as I just did it for a friend which yielded a better bike for the dollar.

    2011 RZ 120 2 upgrades:

    X0 bb30 crank with bb30 bearing kit
    North shore billet spiderless 32t chainring
    Thomson elite 45mm stem
    Funn 750mm handlebar
    Shimano XTR shifter
    Shimano Zee rear derailleur
    Shimano SLX brakes
    Shwalbe Hans damf triple star with snakeskin sides converted tubeless
    Xt spd pedals
    Odi Rogue grips

    After the bb30 conversion the stiffness has now made more creaks apparent mixed with the itch to upgrade my recon tk and wheels.

  2. #2
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    Nobody has an opinion?

  3. #3
    Auburn Bike Works
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    Asr5 hands down!! Stiffer all around climbing and descending, you will not be disappointed I promise. Any doubts there is a yeti demo at my shop April 20th. We deal c dales to.

  4. #4
    I'm with stupid
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    I have a rize and want a asr5c as my do everything bike, I just cant afford the old switch a bike game right now.

  5. #5
    Gnar
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    I have been on a ASR5 for two years now and it is such a fast and fun bike. Awesome trail bike, wouldn't want anything else!

  6. #6
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    yeti.

  7. #7
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    I ride here mainly if any of you would mind watching and telling me what you think the best frame for under $1k would be.

    Markham Park Mountain Bike Park - YouTube

    I think the asr5 would be the ticket. My buddy rides a Santa Cruz heckler with 150mm and he loves it better than his specialized fsr Xc. I was debating the 575

  8. #8
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    Great time to buy a Yeti -- $799 for the frame!

    2012 Yeti Cycles ASR-5 with Fox Float CTD - 2012 - Competitive Cyclist

  9. #9
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    With that frame deal, you could build up an incredible, all-XT, sub-25 lbs. ASR-5 for under $3k.

    I know because I just bought the last parts to build up mine...but I paid $1100 for my frame with a Kashima shock.
    I live with fear and danger every day. And on the weekends she lets me go mountain biking.

  10. #10
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    Yea I'm looking at the $799 deal.

  11. #11
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    There is a guy in Texas that is getting ride of this thing. Over 6k in the bike and he is looking to get 3k for it with the Stans/King wheels or $2600 with DT Swiss M-1900 wheels.

    2010 Yeti ASR5 Carbon. Black. Medium with selected components from XTR Race package
    23.5 lbs as it sets.

    Front Suspension Fork: FOX 32, 120 FIT RLC Fork 1.5 Taper

    Brake: XT brakes with Ice rotors 160F 160R (brand new)

    Cassettes: SRAM XX Cassette 11/36 (100 miles on it)

    Chains: Shimano XTR 10-Speed Chain CN-M980 (100 miles on it)

    Cranks: Shimano XTR Trail 2x10 Hollowtech II Crankset FC-M980 175mm 38/26 (100 miles on it)

    Front Derailleurs: Shimano XTR Traditional Triple Front Derailleur FD-M981

    Grips: ODI Rouge

    Handlebars: Truvativ Noir Team Carbon Riser

    Headset: Chris King Tapered

    Pedals: None

    Rear Derailleurs: Shimano XTR M985 GS Shadow Plus (100 miles on it)

    Rear Shock: FOX FLOAT RP23

    Saddles: None

    Seatpost: Thomson Elite Setback Seatpost Black

    Shifter: Shimano XTR Rapidfire Plus Shift Levers SL-M980 (100 miles on it)

    Stems: Thomson X4 Stem Black 110mm 5 Degree

    Tires - Front: Maxxis IKON 2.2 tubeless

    Tires - Rear: Maxxis IKON 2.2 tubeless

    Wheels: Chris King ISO Disc/Stan's No Tubes ZTR 355



    Last edited by Bailey44; 04-23-2013 at 07:28 AM.

  12. #12
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    Cannondale RZ 120 or Yeti ASR5?-bike-3.jpg

    Yeti makes great frames. But these are pretty similar single pivot frames, really - except the Yeti is a degree slacker. This should make it better at fast gnarly descents, but I'd imagine there is not a whole helluva lot of that in FL. And if you want a slacker geo, the RZ's Lefty fork is easily modded to bump travel an additional 20mm.

    I am biased, as I have the modded 2011 RZ 120 2 pictured above. I love it for mediaum trail and XC riding. Its light (24 lbs), an efficient pedaler (w/ PUSHed shock), quick, precise and agile, yet can attack moderately gnarly descents better than an XC bike.

    Sounds like you have a persistent creak - which can drive you nuts and make you want a new bike. For FL riding, I would not see the Yeti as a significant upgrade for you.

    I'd resolve your RZ's creak (prolly suspension pivot or BB related) and continue to enjoy the hell out of it.
    Last edited by Stumpjumpy; 04-23-2013 at 12:37 PM.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  13. #13
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    I have a RZ120 now and if i could switch i would go to a Yeti. IMHO it is a better allround bike. My RZ120 was a warranty replacement from the original Rize which was a fantastic allround bike like the Yeti.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brodino View Post
    I have a RZ120 now and if i could switch i would go to a Yeti. IMHO it is a better allround bike. My RZ120 was a warranty replacement from the original Rize which was a fantastic allround bike like the Yeti.
    Certainly an interesting take, considering the Rize and the RZ are about as similar as two "different" bike models can possibly be. Cannondale simply changed the name from "Rize" to "RZ" due to trademark infringement issues, along with making a few required improvements to the bike: New Cannondale RZ 120 and RZ 140 | Mountain Bike Review , including redesigning the defective swingarm so that it would not fracture and result in repeated warranty claims like yours.

    I too think that both the Rize/RZ and the Yeti are fantastic all-around bikes - thus I would not incur the expense/trouble of swapping the frame out. If I was the OP, I'd put that money towards a great wheelset and/or other mods like a custom tuned shock.

    I WOULD perhaps swap out for a frame that featured something the RZ does not, like some sort of VPP rear suspension or maybe a different wheel size or different frame material (ie carbon). But for a relatively flat area like FL, swapping out for a slacker geo and 10mm more travel seems like a waste of time/money or worse - a move in the wrong direction.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  15. #15
    LCW
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    OP - get the Yeti. The Tribe has spoken.
    2011 Yeti 575 - Fox Float 36 RC2 160 - 31.5 lbs

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumpy View Post
    Certainly an interesting take, considering the Rize and the RZ are about as similar as two "different" bike models can possibly be. Cannondale simply changed the name from "Rize" to "RZ" due to trademark infringement issues, along with making a few required improvements to the bike: New Cannondale RZ 120 and RZ 140 | Mountain Bike Review , including redesigning the defective swingarm so that it would not fracture and result in repeated warranty claims like yours.
    Actually they look the same but they are not the same. The original RIZE was renamed, as you correctly pointed out, to the RZ and that one in the article was identical to the RIZE. But with the redesign they changed the geometry of the bike. For example the headtube angle was changed from 68.5 to 69, seattube angle was changed from 72.5 to 73.5 etc. Cannondale did this to reposition the RZ as a XC bike and reintroduce the Jekyll as the allmountain option which is also why the RZ suspension was dropped from 140mm to 120mm.

    These are small changes but they altered the way the bike handled. The old RIZE was a good allrounder climbed well, descended even better and pedaled great whereas the new RZ climbs great and pedals great but is not very good at descending and lacks the neutral handling of the old RIZE.

  17. #17
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    It sounds like you just want to buy a new bike. I get it, I did too when I bought the ASR5 frame. I swapped to get rid of the 14.3" bottom bracket and steep HTA on my motolite. The rear travel is the same and the quality of the suspension went to the ML, just my opinion. But, frame stiffness and geometry go to the ASR5, hands down.

    So, if you want a new bike, get the yeti. You don't have any real climbs there to worry about spending at least an extra few hundred for a more efficient pedaling susp design. No offense but a slack steel HT might even be a better option.

  18. #18
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    I've tried a ht and it just isn't for me. As far as Florida goes we do have technical climbs as the trail designers make up for elevation with obstacles. We may not climb more than thirty feet but we are continuously climbing and descending.

  19. #19
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    Revmoto, I get it. I moved back to a HT thinking itd be a fun change but as soon as I left central OH I sold it. But what I said about climbing, I will still stand by. I meant that you don't need to go DW Link or VPP to help reduce fatigue. There are no 10 or 20 minute climbs where it would be a concern.

    The Yeti is ok on the chunky climbs. Gets hung up a little on square edge stuff but not too bad. I'm still dialing in my suspension after owning it for a few months but its a beautiful frame. Well built and can bomb for a 5" bike.

  20. #20
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    doesn't the DW link or VPP help with more than just climbs? seems like it helps in the shocks progression not so much just pedal bob. Cannondales link looks similar to the VPP unless im wrong.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brodino View Post
    Actually they look the same but they are not the same. The original RIZE was renamed, as you correctly pointed out, to the RZ and that one in the article was identical to the RIZE. But with the redesign they changed the geometry of the bike. For example the headtube angle was changed from 68.5 to 69, seattube angle was changed from 72.5 to 73.5 etc. Cannondale did this to reposition the RZ as a XC bike and reintroduce the Jekyll as the allmountain option which is also why the RZ suspension was dropped from 140mm to 120mm.

    These are small changes but they altered the way the bike handled. The old RIZE was a good allrounder climbed well, descended even better and pedaled great whereas the new RZ climbs great and pedals great but is not very good at descending and lacks the neutral handling of the old RIZE.
    The changes in geometry are minor and the direct result of the change in front suspension travel. As previously stated, for those who want a more DH ready RZ 120, all they need to do is run the Lefty at 140mm. But an educated consumer would have bought an RZ 140 if they wanted a more DH oriented bike.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revmoto View Post
    doesn't the DW link or VPP help with more than just climbs? seems like it helps in the shocks progression not so much just pedal bob. Cannondales link looks similar to the VPP unless im wrong.
    VPP type suspensions are more efficient pedaling bikes due to less bob, and tend to provide great grip on technical climbs due to the rearward wheel path.

    Cannondale does not make anything similar to VPP.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  23. #23
    perpetual pucker factor
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    VPP (or floating pivot linkages, as a more general term) are awesome. They stiffen up when pedaling, and when not pedaling, they loosen up and feel much more supple. I had a Giant Reign with a floating pivot system that was incredibly good for pedaling. Even with the shock set up for going down through chunky stuff, it still pedaled a lot like my old hardtail. And that was without using any ProPedal type platform shock at all. It's just better than the standard single pivot nowadays.

    And while neither the ASR5 nor the Cannondale has a floating pivot linkage design, the Cannondale's is not nearly as good as the ASR. It's got a much more rubber bandey feel to it, no matter how well you tune the shock.
    tangaroo: What electrolytes do chicken and turkey have again?
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  24. #24
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    I do get a lot of pedal bobbing under hard acceleration. Push doesn't tune any rockshox rear shock as they can't get parts easily from them.i was thinking rp2 or rp23 with kashima coating. I feel as if the fork is worse than the rear shock. I'm going to be swapping it out for either a fox float/f-series or rockshox reba. My recon is defective as the stanchions aren't aligned and that isn't allowing my wheel to line up properly. I have to get a new headset to run a tapered fork, new fork, new shock, new stem. Add wheels to the mix and I've basically just built an entirely different bike. The thing is though I feel I might be modding the wrong frame.

    On the upside I just finishe replacing all my bearings and the bike feels much tighter but most importantly it's QUIET!!!!!!! It still has slight amounts of play but it's from the rear shock but since those apparently suck I'm replacing them with needle bearings and stronger bolts.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revmoto View Post
    I do get a lot of pedal bobbing under hard acceleration. Push doesn't tune any rockshox rear shock as they can't get parts easily from them.i was thinking rp2 or rp23 with kashima coating. I feel as if the fork is worse than the rear shock. I'm going to be swapping it out for either a fox float/f-series or rockshox reba. My recon is defective as the stanchions aren't aligned and that isn't allowing my wheel to line up properly. I have to get a new headset to run a tapered fork, new fork, new shock, new stem. Add wheels to the mix and I've basically just built an entirely different bike. The thing is though I feel I might be modding the wrong frame.

    On the upside I just finishe replacing all my bearings and the bike feels much tighter but most importantly it's QUIET!!!!!!! It still has slight amounts of play but it's from the rear shock but since those apparently suck I'm replacing them with needle bearings and stronger bolts.
    Your bike does not have a Lefty fork and has a RockShox shock?! Does not sound like a 2011 RZ 120 two. The bikes came w/ a Lefty and RP2.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

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