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  1. #1
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    Best way to lighten your trail/all mountain bike?

    This has probably been beaten to death!
    But I havent found specifics on what I want to know! so bear with me.
    I don't know..titanium bolts...were to put them? I've found some kits on fleaBay for cheap for everything from the thomson stem to the seatpost to the calipers and rotor bolts!

    I'm no weight weenie.... or am I?
    I just saw that stuff on Ebay and thought about how to lighten your 6" travel (for ex.) SMARTLY.

    Any other ways?
    -Go tubeless
    -Titanium springs (if applicable)
    -Etc.??

    I have this....

    Frame: 2010 Intense tracer Vp Medium WHITE w/grey stickers, not the red ones.
    Fork: 2011 Fox 32 RLC 150 Fit Qr15 with the Kashima thingy BLACK
    Headset: Chris Bling (King)...InSet at the top, external at the bottom. BLACK
    Wheels:
    Rim: Stans Notubes Flows 32h BLACK
    Spokes: Dt 14/15 BLACK
    Nipples: Alloy BLACK
    Hubs:
    Front: Hope Pro2 15 thru axle 32h BLACK
    Rear: Hope Pro2 10 thru axle 32h BLACK
    Rear Axle: DT Swiss RWS 10mm x 135mm
    Tires:
    Front: Kenda 2.3 Nevegal (tubeless converted)
    Rear: Kenda 2.1 Slant Six (If available...if not Small Block 8 in 2.3)

    Crankset: Shimano XT w/32t chainring
    Bottom bracket: Shimano XT
    Pedals: Time ATAC (beat to shiz)
    Front der: None....MRP 1.x BLACK
    Rear der. Shimano XT shadow 10 speed
    Chain: Shimano XT 10 speed
    Cassette: Shimano XT 10 speed 11-36t
    Shifters: Shimano XT 10 speed, Right Only
    Stem: Thomson X4 80mm
    Handelbar: (If Available) Syntace Vector Carbon 31.8x740mm 8deg. sweep
    (If Syntace N/A RaceFace Atlas FR cut to 740mm BLACK)
    Grips: ODI Cross Trainer Lock on (suuuper comfy)
    Brakes: 2010 XTR Disc Brakes w/Shimano fixed 160 rear rotor and 180 front rotor. Ti bolts.
    Seatpost: Thomson 31.6mm BLACK
    Saddel: Fizik Gobi XM Ti BLACK

    Thoughts?
    My Bike: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...3&postcount=49

    On-One Whippet 650b XC machine

  2. #2
    usually cranky
    Reputation: b-kul's Avatar
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    dont see anyplace you could shed a hell of a lot of weight. already seems like a fairly lightweight build to me.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    dont see anyplace you could shed a hell of a lot of weight. already seems like a fairly lightweight build to me.
    anywere?
    My Bike: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...3&postcount=49

    On-One Whippet 650b XC machine

  4. #4
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    is the list above your build or what you are looking to buy as replacement parts.

    if this is your current build, why fuc with it? Looks damn good to me.

  5. #5
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    I found it easier to go on a diet!! Cheaper too!!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhbomber
    I'm no weight weenie.... or am I?

    if that build is too heavy, then yes. You are a weight weenie.

    Ti bolts are one of the most expensive ways to lighten a bike; $3-4/gram, even if you replaced every steel bolt, you wouldn't save enough to notice.

    A Ti spring might save you half a pound, or an air shock could save you more. An XX cassette is quite a bit lighter than XT 10s, but I'd never spend that much on a wear part. Masterpiece post, and I bet there's something lighter in the way of chain guides. Eggbreakers would save you somthing vs Time if you're ok with disposable pedals. And the tires you chose are pretty heavy.

    most of that are, IMO complete wastes of money. I don't think I'd do any of them except the tires.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhbomber
    anywere?
    How much does that thing weigh right now, any clue? I have the SC equivalent, mines at about 28-29lbs with a '11 Talas and heavier wheels (CK hubs & Mavic 723 rims) and possibly some other heavier components. (Used a scale at the LBS.) So really your bike has to be fairly light.

    You could always review Shimano's site to see what XTR components would be lighter. (Assuming their weights are accurate.)

    I would be worried about the quality of the titanium bolts from ebay? Hopefully someone on here has tried them because I'm curious now.

  8. #8
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    definitely switch to the red stickers. that'll help

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by skithebert
    definitely switch to the red stickers. that'll help
    HAHAHA!!!

    The grey ones are 1g. less!

    Kidding...

    Well...I'm waiting for the parts to built the bike...so I have no weight...I figure it's gonna turn out at about 29lbs? Not that heavy if you consider that my build has some heavy duty (ish..) parts...

    I just posted this thread so trail riders...like you and me...could save some weight off our 27 to 30 lb bikes! not just MY bike.

    Ebay ti bolts have proven quite strong...my dad races XC and trains with the same bike that have them....not a single one has problems.

    XTR components would save a little...but at a very high cost....Cranks? a rather spend 150 bucks on the trusty XTs than burn some 400 clams to save 200g.

    My choice of tires...well...although a little heavy my kendas have proven very reliable and durable....I'm not gonna put some paper thin tires just to save some grams and be plagued with flats! Thats why I say...lose some weight...in a SMART way.

    Come on guys! Some weight saving tips!
    My Bike: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...3&postcount=49

    On-One Whippet 650b XC machine

  10. #10
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    The XTR brakes are heavy, you can get some Formula R1's and save like 300 grams for the set.

    But I just got some XTR brakes as well, found a good deal online. Have yet to install them but they look great and if they hold up like everything else Shimano I'll be happy

  11. #11
    perpetual pucker factor
    Reputation: charging_rhinos's Avatar
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    Jump higher. Bikes feel lighter in the air.
    tangaroo: What electrolytes do chicken and turkey have again?
    rck18: All of them, because they're meat.

  12. #12
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    What rear shock u running?

    Few ideas - 2ti Egg beaters, sunline stem, alligator rotors,

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tillers_Rule
    The XTR brakes are heavy, you can get some Formula R1's and save like 300 grams for the set.

    But I just got some XTR brakes as well, found a good deal online. Have yet to install them but they look great and if they hold up like everything else Shimano I'll be happy
    Same as you! Got a pretty good deal on them!
    They seam pretty decent...weight wise...

    Formulas are nice too!
    My Bike: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...3&postcount=49

    On-One Whippet 650b XC machine

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmaddy
    What rear shock u running?

    Few ideas - 2ti Egg beaters, sunline stem, alligator rotors,
    I'm in NO WAY running those egg beaters *****!
    They are like a nice set of Gouda Cheese pedals!

    I got a lighter Thomson stem...plan on putting some Ti bolts on it...

    I was thinking of Ashima rotors...they seem paper light, but I donīt know how durable they are...

    Oh and the shock is your standard RP23
    My Bike: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...3&postcount=49

    On-One Whippet 650b XC machine

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by charging_rhinos
    Jump higher. Bikes feel lighter in the air.
    For suuuuure I'm gonna be jumping this bike!

    Bikes should be about 20 pounds lighter in the air! HAHAHA
    My Bike: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...3&postcount=49

    On-One Whippet 650b XC machine

  16. #16
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    Should have gotten an XC bike.

    Unrealistic expectations suck, don't they?

  17. #17
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    From your build i would suggest If you leave your wallet out of your pocket that should save a tonne of weight.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhbomber
    Same as you! Got a pretty good deal on them!
    They seam pretty decent...weight wise...

    Formulas are nice too!

    Yea I just weighed mine, 309 grams for the front, less than I expected.

  19. #19
    wuss
    Reputation: dropadrop's Avatar
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    The correct way to lighten a Bike like that is to take a speadsheet and list all components. On another row put your current parts and their weights.

    Then search for lighter parts that are strong enough and add the weight saving and price. Once finished it should be easy to pick where you can save the most for the cheapest price.

  20. #20
    fool goin up, joker down
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    Quote Originally Posted by dropadrop
    The correct way to lighten a Bike like that is to take a speadsheet and list all components. On another row put your current parts and their weights.

    Then search for lighter parts that are strong enough and add the weight saving and price. Once finished it should be easy to pick where you can save the most for the cheapest price.
    true that. if you already have a fairly light bike (which you do) then this is the most efficient way to lighten things up.
    Mamma speed I'm back!!!

  21. #21
    dude
    Reputation: joeyjoedotorg's Avatar
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    The bike seems light enough. Time to work on the engine.

  22. #22
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    if you're dying to waste money, you could alway just paypal it to me. between ti bolts and just giving me your money, you really wouldnt notice any difference in the way your bike rides

  23. #23
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    - I believe the hadley aluminum through axle is lighter than the DT through axle. Not sure about exact figures but I'd bet 50g or so.

    - ESI chunky grips. save about 100g over your ODIs. Cheap, and they don't move around on the bar.

    - kmc x10sl chain.

    - sram XX cassette.

    - edge composites wide bar. Light, awesome.

    - formula the One brakes + rotors.

    - aluminum bolts for shifter(s). I'd stick with TI or steel bolts for brakes though.

    - look pedals? The first ones sucked but I hear the new ones are better. they are lighter than times. Times are the old reliable though.

    - some kind of wacky superlight cables and housing. I haven't done this but if you're pulling out all the stops...

    - then gain all that weight back with an adjustable seat post!

  24. #24
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ansible
    - I believe the hadley aluminum through axle is lighter than the DT through axle. Not sure about exact figures but I'd bet 50g or so.

    - ESI chunky grips. save about 100g over your ODIs. Cheap, and they don't move around on the bar.

    - kmc x10sl chain.

    - sram XX cassette.

    - edge composites wide bar. Light, awesome.

    - formula the One brakes + rotors.

    - aluminum bolts for shifter(s). I'd stick with TI or steel bolts for brakes though.

    - look pedals? The first ones sucked but I hear the new ones are better. they are lighter than times. Times are the old reliable though.

    - some kind of wacky superlight cables and housing. I haven't done this but if you're pulling out all the stops...

    - then gain all that weight back with an adjustable seat post!
    -I like the skewer ratchet mech of the RWS
    -I like those ESI grips! Have them on my trail hardtail, but they are a PAIN to take em off!
    -I could get a KMC chain....or not
    -SRAM XX cassette? Dude, I'm waiting for the new Hope Integrated cassette! with a 9t!
    -Edge bars are super cool and chic, but the race face sixc's are wider!
    -I like my old Time pedals! I'm kinda skeptic on changing to some pedals I probably won't like.
    -The ebay Ti disc brake bolt kits are at a good price! Probably gonna buy some of those. Just for the calipers and rotors.
    -Superlight cables or housings? Like Nokon? Too expensive...
    -Adjustable seatpost? Naah I don't need one.

    Hahaha I'm NOT pulling all the stops! I'm no weight weenie! I just wanted to know some nice, not to expensive, and smart ways to save some weight on your all mountain bike!

    I don't even know how I'm gonna pay for the bike!

    But hey....I have an idea...let's pretend I have money to burn and I am a weight weenie all mountain bike rider and want to know how could you make your bike lighter while keeping it strong!

    This might come in handy to some!

    Thanks guys!
    My Bike: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...3&postcount=49

    On-One Whippet 650b XC machine

  25. #25
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    that's an xc build in my opinion.
    so no... for actual jumping, over 4 foot drops and such that most consider part of "AM" riding... really nowhere to go.
    everyone's version of "AM" differs of course, but if you can't pound that light little thing around the forests it's not because the bike's weight is holding you back.


    if you're asking for weight dropping advice on a tracer with a xt/thomson/hope/chris king build?? you ARE a weight weenie.
    don't know how you've convinced yourself you're not.

    foll roll de ole troll
    If steel is real then aluminium is supercallafragiliniun!

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