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  1. #1
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    Best adjustable seat post?

    Hey all, i am looking to get an adjustable seat post and not sure which is best. I have found the X Fusion Hilo, the Crank Bros. Joplin 4 and Kind Shock I950 and I900. I know that X Fusion one is a new product but like how it comes with a remote and seat post lever. Is there any benefit of hydraulic vs mechanical? If anyone can let me know what they think it would be appreciated.
    PS i found all 3 of them for relatively the same price so obviously $ is not a factor.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by meSSican; 12-04-2010 at 07:03 PM.

  2. #2
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    what about the rs reverb and gd posts. you missed some good ones.

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    The only reason I left out the Reverb and Gravity Dropper is that they are solidly at $250 whereas I have found the 3 I listed from $175-$150 which is my budget.

  4. #4
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    For me the best drop seat post is the one the breaks down the least. Which basically leads me to say any system that is mechanical tends to win that category. Mechanical will almost always work regardless of whether you take care of the system or not. Where as Hydraulic base systems tend to need lots of "TLC" to maintain perfect working order. With Hydraulic you get an unlimited points of adjustment on the postes height, unlike the mechanical system where they are all set points.

    I personally love the lighter weight, look, and function of the hydraulic base ones but despise their reliability. Which is why I run a Gravity Dropper (mechanical), it is reliable and robust.

  5. #5
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    i have heard mechanical posts are super fussy about wire tension whereas with hydro you just need to give it a good bleed.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    i have heard mechanical posts are super fussy about wire tension whereas with hydro you just need to give it a good bleed.
    Nah someone is full of BS.

    The issues Ive seen with the Hydro ones are Joplins tend to get air in the system if you arent careful with how you use it. The Reverb seems to have a very fragile lever, Ive seen a few on MTBR already that have broken and looking at the lever itself I can see why.

    The only issue with the GB (mech) types Ive seen is they can develop some play, which is easily remedied by puchasing new shims ($2 for set) every 6months to a year depending on how much you ride. Other than that, nothing.

    Another that is a potential/possible issue on the hyro posts, if the system (hose, etc) developed a leak, your seat would drop making any lengthy pedaling a chore. A mech system wouldnt have this issue, even if the cable snapped, you could pull the cable and get back to optimum pedal height.
    #THELEGEND #MAKE****HAPPEN

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    i have heard mechanical posts are super fussy about wire tension whereas with hydro you just need to give it a good bleed.
    Really? Never even had an issue with that on mine, but that could also be from me not running a excessively long cable on my bike. I have heard of people not able to get it to work quite as smoothly because they wanted to run the cable down the seatpost, under the BB and up to the handle bars. However if you just run the cable on the top tube straight to the bars it shouldn't have any tension issues I would think .

  8. #8
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    I know the Specialized command post is out of your price range, and some people had issues with the first model year (maybe 2nd year too), but out of personal experience, it is awesome. Up and down like butter and super solid.

    Personally, as long as it is working properly, ANY adjustable post might be pretty much the best upgrade you can put on a bike. I use mine more than I use my front derailleur!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2clue
    Really? Never even had an issue with that on mine, but that could also be from me not running a excessively long cable on my bike. I have heard of people not able to get it to work quite as smoothly because they wanted to run the cable down the seatpost, under the BB and up to the handle bars. However if you just run the cable on the top tube straight to the bars it shouldn't have any tension issues I would think .

    Actually b-kul heard right Not that the remote would not work but the return feel sucks, well at least on my AMP, and GD( very little problem with GD, but it's there). The mechanical do suffer the seat clamp tension though, if you tighten them too much it greatly effect the performance of the post.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2clue
    For me the best drop seat post is the one the breaks down the least.
    This I agree 100%. It's simply the nature of the beast, I'm gladly accept it.

    The nature of mech is the fact that all travel is predetermine, which work great when the post is new, but as it gets older the locking pin get worn and minor annoyance develop. The big plus is most posts are 27.2 which mean it would fit just about any frame.

    Hydro are just awesome for infinite adjustment, good looking remotes, smooth, quiet operation, but only available in 30.9, and 31.6. CB was trying to crank out 27.2 version but that was short lived. KS overcame the problem, but then again my i7 that I order 9mos ago still has not arrive, so til then my fingers are crossed.

  10. #10
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    I like the idea of the lever actuated posts better than the remote ones for the simplicity. I am just worried about when I take it to Northstar as you have to load the bikes where they hang on the seat. Will that damage the post after time?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by meSSican
    I like the idea of the lever actuated posts better than the remote ones for the simplicity. I am just worried about when I take it to Northstar as you have to load the bikes where they hang on the seat. Will that damage the post after time?

    Lever operated sucks. If you insist on getting one, get the remote version and order the lever conversion. You'd change your mind in a few rides, if that. Plus the lever would get in the way of the lift.

  12. #12
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    Does the i7 only come in 100mm i thought i heard the were coming out with one with more travel.I wanted one with 125mm for my prophet.

  13. #13
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    GDropper period !

    Check out my post on the gravity dropper. Go find a deal on ebay.

  14. #14
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    sorry for the confusion, i was talking about cable actuated vs. hydro actuated. not the internals.

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    I liked the idea of the X fusion because it came with both lever and remote. Only problem with that one is i guess it has a single chamber so when you lift up on the seat it extends all the way out. Even though it goes right back down when you let off it is a big turn off for me since i will be using it for lift access in the summer. I am leaning twards the KS I900 but not sure if i am getting the remote or lever as there is a $35 difference and i really like the idea of the lever.
    mimi1885-why do the lever actuated ones suck? I have no experience with either and would like to get your opinion so i can make a good decision.
    Thanks

  16. #16
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    The remote is what makes the Adjustable posts as good as they are, try and have a ride on both setups , the lever will leave you feeling like you don't even have half a product

    Edit:

    +1,2,3,4........etc for Kindshock, mines been flawless

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by meSSican
    I liked the idea of the X fusion because it came with both lever and remote. Only problem with that one is i guess it has a single chamber so when you lift up on the seat it extends all the way out. Even though it goes right back down when you let off it is a big turn off for me since i will be using it for lift access in the summer. I am leaning twards the KS I900 but not sure if i am getting the remote or lever as there is a $35 difference and i really like the idea of the lever.
    mimi1885-why do the lever actuated ones suck? I have no experience with either and would like to get your opinion so i can make a good decision.
    Thanks
    i think all adjustable posts do that. the reverb is the only one that kinda doesnt, if you pull on it fast enough it will extend.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by meSSican
    I liked the idea of the X fusion because it came with both lever and remote. Only problem with that one is i guess it has a single chamber so when you lift up on the seat it extends all the way out. Even though it goes right back down when you let off it is a big turn off for me since i will be using it for lift access in the summer. I am leaning twards the KS I900 but not sure if i am getting the remote or lever as there is a $35 difference and i really like the idea of the lever.
    mimi1885-why do the lever actuated ones suck? I have no experience with either and would like to get your opinion so i can make a good decision.
    Thanks
    Why lever sucks? It's human nature, we want more. If you are coming from standard post then lever seems like enough, drop the seat in tech sections then raise back up on the climb.

    Once we have try the remote, it make adjustment easier, and safer so we do it more often. Then we want better remotes, more convinience, more travel, better designs, more sizes, easier cable routing, weather proofed, and so on.

    Once remote operating becomes second nature you can drop your seat and brake when you get a surprise obstracles on the trail, it takes a while to multitask

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prophet bill
    Does the i7 only come in 100mm i thought i heard the were coming out with one with more travel.I wanted one with 125mm for my prophet.
    So far only 100. It more difficult to do one smaller with hydro, I guess. I spoke to Maverick, and KS a while back, they expressed the same concern. Making a smaller diameter, but not longer internal at a competitive weight turn out to be a mile stone. I'm sure once the first guy who figured out more would follow.

  20. #20
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    Gravity Dropper!

    Gravity Dropper makes the best adjustable seatposts quality and functional wise hands down, IMO.

    I was on a 4" GD post for +4 years with no problems (220-225lb rider who rides hard and sloppy at times), other than the usual saddle wiggle and only two cable replacements (cheap).

    Bought a RS Reverb this past fall and sold it after 3 weeks of use due to being a little too cumbersome and not really as practical to use as I was hoping for.

    Now back on a GD post, the 30.9mm, 5" Classic and love it so much better than the Reverb Just a much more quality post with solid construction of the seatpost itself (not sensitve to binding forces), easy to set-up, easy to use with seat position in the "right" place everytime and absolutely no side to side or up/down play at all due to thicker inner tubing with 30.9 diameter mitigating any extra movement which would be present with their older 27.2 posts. And you can set-up the remote in the optimal position better, just above the left thumb FD shifter when running a right remote inverted on the left side. The Reverb required me to have shave off extra material from the FD shifter pod to get it more inline with thumb shifter and still never could get it in the optimal position due to the remote body since I don't like running the remotes on top of the bars.

    Gravity Dropper are awesome with excellent custy service here in the US (not the case with KS) and makes a solid product that they stand behind! Oh, and yes mechanical posts are just more practical and easier to use than hydraulic stuff without a doubt, even though the hydraulic sounds good in theory like disc brakes.
    Ride On!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by wpuk
    The remote is what makes the Adjustable posts as good as they are, try and have a ride on both setups , the lever will leave you feeling like you don't even have half a product

    Edit:

    +1,2,3,4........etc for Kindshock, mines been flawless
    I agree, KS is great, they are constantly improving, new internal, better remotes, I've never had any issues getting great customer service. One of my KS was the first version, now it's upgraded to the latest internal and remote. Not many companies constantly make improvement, they are alright in my book.

  22. #22
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    I think I will pick up the X-Fusion Hilo. X-Fusion looks to have some nice products. Also looking at the Vengeance.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    i think most hydro adjustable posts do that. the reverb is the only one that kinda doesnt, if you pull on it fast enough it will extend. Of course this is not an issue with Mech posts like the GD and All Mountain Post
    I fixed that for you.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    I fixed that for you.
    haha thank you. for some reason my brain only chooses to focus on the remote actuation system and not the internals

  25. #25
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    I wouldn't worry about wire actuated posts,what could be more simple than a cable?

    I'm rocking an i950-r and have had 0 problems with it in over 6 months.

  26. #26
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    I think I am getting the KS I900R. I read in the discription that it does not extend when lifted by the seat, any anyone confirm or deny that?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by meSSican
    I think I am getting the KS I900R. I read in the discription that it does not extend when lifted by the seat, any anyone confirm or deny that?

    Yes, it's a confirm. Unless you want the set back, get the i950r you'd be happier.

  28. #28
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    What is the difference between the I900 and the I950? Aside from the saddle set back.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by meSSican
    What is the difference between the I900 and the I950?
    900 is a setback, 950 is a newer straight. I'm sure by now the mech under the seat is the same but just in case 950 has a neat little hooking cable cap for easy installation. The new one is also comes with flex hose for remote.

    i950r


    i900r the old ones still need to tighten the cable.

    Older remote noodle

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Nah someone is full of BS.

    The issues Ive seen with the Hydro ones are Joplins tend to get air in the system if you arent careful with how you use it. The Reverb seems to have a very fragile lever, Ive seen a few on MTBR already that have broken and looking at the lever itself I can see why.

    The only issue with the GB (mech) types Ive seen is they can develop some play, which is easily remedied by puchasing new shims ($2 for set) every 6months to a year depending on how much you ride. Other than that, nothing.

    Another that is a potential/possible issue on the hyro posts, if the system (hose, etc) developed a leak, your seat would drop making any lengthy pedaling a chore. A mech system wouldnt have this issue, even if the cable snapped, you could pull the cable and get back to optimum pedal height.
    Meh. I feel like I need to say something since some of the information posted about hydraulic posts is just plain wrong. Unless you've personally owned a Reverb, it's all just hearsay. I never have to bleed my hydraulic disc brakes and I've never had to bleed the Reverb after initial setup. If you're doing full bleeds regularly on anything hydraulic on your bike there's something wrong. Not sure how bleeding it once is constant maintenance as one person said previously. If anything, I'll bet you'll be changing cables/housing on your cable posts long before I ever consider bleeding or changing hoses on my Reverb. If hydraulic systems were such a pain in the ass as you've said, nobody would run hydro brakes on their bikes.

    BTW, if your hose developed a leak, the post would just be locked in whatever position it currently was at. It wouldn't drop. The hydraulic fluid just opens the mechanism that allows the post to move. Your post isn't being held up by the fluid in the cable. If your cable leaks, the post isn't just going to drop all the way down. Where did you ever get that idea from?

    I'm not just defending it because I use it. After riding several different models and seeing many of the issues firsthand, the Reverb is the only current drop post I'd run on my bike. It really is like night and day once you try one compared to a cable actuated post. The action is just so smooth, plus you never have to worry about finding any preset spot in the range while you're riding. Just put it anywhere you want it. It has yet to need any maintenance, but if it does, any suspension shop can work on it just like a fork. No need to send it back to the manufacturer for service.

    As for the weak lever, well...don't crash! Or mount it under the bars. It doesn't really seem all that fragile to me though. You can brake any other lever just as easily in my opinion. I've sheared off a cable fork lockout lever before. =/

    My advice to the OP, save up and get a Reverb. You'll thank me later.
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  31. #31
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    Weird, my i950 has the older metal sleeve coming out of the remote, makes it a pain to position

  32. #32
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    I've used the KS i900r all season and it's worked well. I had a few minor issues when it was new, but they were easy to take care of. Most of the issues had to do with proper lubrication.
    Like all moving parts, it needs some maintenance. I took it apart once in about eight months to lubricate the parts. No play in the seat or other problems.
    Probably the best performance addition to my bike.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    Meh. I feel like I need to say something since some of the information posted about hydraulic posts is just plain wrong. Unless you've personally owned a Reverb, it's all just hearsay. I never have to bleed my hydraulic disc brakes and I've never had to bleed the Reverb after initial setup. If you're doing full bleeds regularly on anything hydraulic on your bike there's something wrong. Not sure how bleeding it once is constant maintenance as one person said previously. If anything, I'll bet you'll be changing cables/housing on your cable posts long before I ever consider bleeding or changing hoses on my Reverb. If hydraulic systems were such a pain in the ass as you've said, nobody would run hydro brakes on their bikes.

    BTW, if your hose developed a leak, the post would just be locked in whatever position it currently was at. It wouldn't drop. The hydraulic fluid just opens the mechanism that allows the post to move. Your post isn't being held up by the fluid in the cable. If your cable leaks, the post isn't just going to drop all the way down. Where did you ever get that idea from?

    I'm not just defending it because I use it. After riding several different models and seeing many of the issues firsthand, the Reverb is the only current drop post I'd run on my bike. It really is like night and day once you try one compared to a cable actuated post. The action is just so smooth, plus you never have to worry about finding any preset spot in the range while you're riding. Just put it anywhere you want it. It has yet to need any maintenance, but if it does, any suspension shop can work on it just like a fork. No need to send it back to the manufacturer for service.

    As for the weak lever, well...don't crash! Or mount it under the bars. It doesn't really seem all that fragile to me though. You can brake any other lever just as easily in my opinion. I've sheared off a cable fork lockout lever before. =/

    My advice to the OP, save up and get a Reverb. You'll thank me later.

    Well I never said anything about the Reverb needing constant bleeding, but whatever. There appears to be an issue with you and reading comprehension.

    As for hydro brakes, well obviously there are some drawbacks but its the best system we have so guess we deal!! However if youd ever ridden or known people who have, Joplin, youd understand my complaints. Not saying the reverb is the same, but its a new product so obviously something to be cautious about.

    Levers: yeah well not everyone can or is willing to run the lever under the bars, I do on my GB but I also dont have a front shifter to get in the way. Not saying GD lever cant break, Im sure someone has, but Ive never seen it and Ive seen quite a few of the RS ones so far, enough to were Im wary since Ive been on the same GB lever for years now!!

    Good to know about the leak issue thanks, consider me informed. I naturally figured like hydro brakes once the fluid is gone, so is the pressure.
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  34. #34
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    ^dont know if its the internet or what but that post reads pretty out of line. no need to bag on him, he didnt attack you. btw what system would you like to see over hydro brakes/ what are some of there shortcomings?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Well I never said anything about the Reverb needing constant bleeding, but whatever. There appears to be an issue with you and reading comprehension.

    As for hydro brakes, well obviously there are some drawbacks but its the best system we have so guess we deal!! However if youd ever ridden or known people who have, Joplin, youd understand my complaints. Not saying the reverb is the same, but its a new product so obviously something to be cautious about.

    Levers: yeah well not everyone can or is willing to run the lever under the bars, I do on my GB but I also dont have a front shifter to get in the way. Not saying GD lever cant break, Im sure someone has, but Ive never seen it and Ive seen quite a few of the RS ones so far, enough to were Im wary since Ive been on the same GB lever for years now!!

    Good to know about the leak issue thanks, consider me informed. I naturally figured like hydro brakes once the fluid is gone, so is the pressure.
    Are we really going to do the internet trash talk? If you want to discuss reading comprehension, notice I said, "as one person said previously." In other words, not you (who I was quoting).

    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    Not sure how bleeding it once is constant maintenance as one person said previously.
    I was actually referring to the post below where they talk about it requiring constant attention to maintain. Sorry I didn't originally go through all the copy and pasting of quoting 2 posts. Here ya go.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2clue
    For me the best drop seat post is the one the breaks down the least. Which basically leads me to say any system that is mechanical tends to win that category. Mechanical will almost always work regardless of whether you take care of the system or not. Where as Hydraulic base systems tend to need lots of "TLC" to maintain perfect working order.
    People seem to be lumping the Reverb and Joplin together and referring to "all hydraulic posts or systems."

    As for the breaking lever, I've seen maybe 3 posts about broken levers on here, which is what statistical sampling? How many Reverb owners even post in MTBR, let alone that thread. How can you actually say that a lot of people have broken levers or that it breaks easily without even knowing the circumstances involved?

    You're correct that like hydraulic brakes, once the fluid in the line is gone, so is the pressure in the line. If you had a brake line leak, you wouldn't be able to generate the pressure to push the pistons and couldn't brake. Same concept, but the Reverb isn't "held up" by the pressure in the line. To oversimplify, the pressure in the line just "unlocks" the post, allowing it to return to fully extended or drop if pressure is applied. If your post was down when the line broke, you probably wouldn't be able to return it to full extension. If it was up when it happened, you wouldn't be able to lower it. It wouldn't drop though.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  36. #36
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    I have both the GD Turbo and the Rockshox Reverb... they are both great posts but I like the functionality and feel of the Reverb more than the GD... just my opinion... one thing about the Reverb is that the Xloc lever is VERY vulnerable if you run it in its intended orientation above the bars... first hard spill I took ended up busting the Xloc... never happened to my GD in 4 years of abuse.

  37. #37
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    Couple of disjointed toughts...

    I have both an AMP 1/4 drop and a Reverb.
    I prefer the Reverb - the inifinate drop is much liked as opposed to 1 or 4. Which can be a bit hard to find the 1" on occasion.

    With the Reverb you do a little bleed ( fluid and associated kit included in the box ) on initial setup and all is good.
    With the AMP you install ( with shim in my case ) and adjust cable tension. Then you crank the crap out of the seat-binder to take up enough tension to avoid slippage ( I have always hated shims )

    No idea of long term on the Reverb.

    On the AMP, I have had to replace frayed cable twice.
    You need to keep the keyways lubed, or the action suffers - but this causes gunk build-up, so then you need to do a little internal maintenance every 6 months or so. If not in my experience then if becomes diffcult to get the bottom drop to lock.

    On the plus side, the keyways on the AMP are still pretty tight, some slop but not as much as I expected.

    One other thing - the return speed can be a little "unfriendly" on the AMP.

    michael

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1


    People seem to be lumping the Reverb and Joplin together and referring to "all hydraulic posts or systems."

    As for the breaking lever, I've seen maybe 3 posts about broken levers on here, which is what statistical sampling? How many Reverb owners even post in MTBR, let alone that thread. How can you actually say that a lot of people have broken levers or that it breaks easily without even knowing the circumstances involved?

    You're correct that like hydraulic brakes, once the fluid in the line is gone, so is the pressure in the line. If you had a brake line leak, you wouldn't be able to generate the pressure to push the pistons and couldn't brake. Same concept, but the Reverb isn't "held up" by the pressure in the line. To oversimplify, the pressure in the line just "unlocks" the post, allowing it to return to fully extended or drop if pressure is applied. If your post was down when the line broke, you probably wouldn't be able to return it to full extension. If it was up when it happened, you wouldn't be able to lower it. It wouldn't drop though.
    Well said, and also good thread you started about the Reverb. very informative thread and I'm definitely putting the Reverb on the top of my list for the next post(after the KS i7r)

    I agree it can be confusing since the term is used quite loosely until reverb. If the remote line is rip, well it would essentially turn the post into an expensive suspension post

    I think infinite adj posts are better overall because it encourage you to adjust your seat height, and finding the good sweetspot along the way, you are not fixed to predetermine height. You do give up the simplicity and less frequent maintenance, it's just a coin flip of what you want and willing to live with, especially ones who own both types.

  39. #39
    Phil from San Diego
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    Just ordered a couple of the KS i7-R from Universal Cycles for me and a buddy at $223 each after discount. It might be here as soon as Friday/Saturday.. or least by Monday.

    Been wanting an adjustable post and for some reason never could pull the trigger on the GD, AMP or Black Mamba..etc. Waited for KS to get this out for like a year!

    My expectation is high so we'll see what we get. =)


    Phil

  40. #40
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    I have been using (abusing) my KS i950 for over a year now - and it has been going strong. Only maintenance I have done on it is wipe the muck off it after a dirty ride.

    Really have nothing negative to say about the KS product.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    People seem to be lumping the Reverb and Joplin together and referring to "all hydraulic posts or systems."

    As for the breaking lever, I've seen maybe 3 posts about broken levers on here, which is what statistical sampling? How many Reverb owners even post in MTBR, let alone that thread. How can you actually say that a lot of people have broken levers or that it breaks easily without even knowing the circumstances involved?
    Well Im basing this off the fact I know a bunch of people, on MTBR and IRL, who have other posts and have never broken a lever and from looking at the lever for the Reverb itself which Ive seen in pics and person, its not a very robust component. But whatever!

    We could sit here for weeks and dispute the pros and cons of each system and praise the one we use as the best until hell freezes over. Personally I really dont give a ***** what anyone uses or doesnt, I was just pointing out some of the known issues that riders using the reverb that have been noticing and the lack of issues Ive had with my utilitarian GB Turbo that hasnt failed me once in 3 yrs! Like all good companies Im sure if RS feels there is an issue with the lever, they will fix it, just like GD fixed the issues with snapping posts and CB fixing the known air issue with the Jop...oh wait thats still an on going issue.

    I get that its new and everything new must be better, esp if you own one but really is it wrong for someone else to share the issues, whether on a worldwide scale or just local or even just on MTBR, with others who are looking for a travel adjust seatpost so they can make an informed decision???
    #THELEGEND #MAKE****HAPPEN

  42. #42
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    Just need to mention the X-fusion HiLo. Had mine for just a week or so now but have been very impressed.

    I am waiting for someone who has hands on experience with more posts to give an update, but I am digging mine (just cannot make any comparisons besides e-comparisons).
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Well Im basing this off the fact I know a bunch of people, on MTBR and IRL, who have other posts and have never broken a lever and from looking at the lever for the Reverb itself which Ive seen in pics and person, its not a very robust component. But whatever!

    We could sit here for weeks and dispute the pros and cons of each system and praise the one we use as the best until hell freezes over. Personally I really dont give a ***** what anyone uses or doesnt, I was just pointing out some of the known issues that riders using the reverb that have been noticing and the lack of issues Ive had with my utilitarian GB Turbo that hasnt failed me once in 3 yrs! Like all good companies Im sure if RS feels there is an issue with the lever, they will fix it, just like GD fixed the issues with snapping posts and CB fixing the known air issue with the Jop...oh wait thats still an on going issue.

    I get that its new and everything new must be better, esp if you own one but really is it wrong for someone else to share the issues, whether on a worldwide scale or just local or even just on MTBR, with others who are looking for a travel adjust seatpost so they can make an informed decision???
    It's not wrong to share your opinion. I don't mind in the least. Though it does seem funny how you argue that it's not wrong for you to share your opinions and experiences, yet you are the first one to get defensive when I disagree with you? I was giving my own advice just like you were. I was also correcting some misinformed and incorrect statements.

    I seemed to be the only one to post the opposite of what everyone else was saying in the thread (mostly unsubstantiated I might add). It's very easy to jump on the bandwagon and just say all hydraulic posts require more maintenance and that they're more reliable. That is based on what? Because it's a cable and it's simpler? I however, tend to believe the opposite to be true based on my experiences with mechanical posts, the Reverb so far, and my hydraulic disc brakes. Cables deteriorate faster than hydraulic fluid, and the Reverb is a completely closed system. It also has much better seals on the post than the GD and others. They do produce suspension forks after-all, and their seals seem to be much better at keeping the gunk out. Look at all the complaints about the Kind Shock and other mechanical posts here. There are plenty of people with faulty posts. No design is perfect. I just happen to like one over the others I have tried.

    I never did say new is better. I do think RockShox brings something unique to the table from their suspension heritage. GD was one of the first, so naturally others will come along and improve upon its design. As I said earlier, I'm not defending the post because I own one. Until you've actually ridden one you wouldn't understand. I've ridden other adjustable posts before. They don't feel the same at all. To reiterate, I believe there will actually be less maintenance for the Reverb than the other models out there, aside from the occasional service which any post will need eventually. There's no need to worry about changing cables and housing to keep it smooth. Only time will tell I suppose.

    BTW, if mine develops issues, I will be the first one to speak up about it. I spend my money where I feel it's best. I don't have any particular loyalty to any brand and I don't work in the bike industry. What reason do I have to defend a defective product? As for the remote breaking, I still believe you're referring to a very small sample of posts. One guy actually put his bike upside down sitting on the lever when the manual specifically says not to. Any remote will brake in a crash, even your beloved GD if you land on it right. That's the risk I'm willing to take to ride a post that feels and works great for me. If I do break a remote, I'll just order a new one, just like if I break off a shifter or brake lever. Sh*t happens. Components will brake, especially in a crash. If you're not ready to accept that fact, you really shouldn't be mountain biking. It really doesn't seem all that insubstantial to me though.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 12-08-2010 at 03:48 PM.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  44. #44
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    The i900 I had was sticky, it was getting better but then I got i950 and it is pure joy to ride right out of the box.

  45. #45
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    Classic-vs-Turbo

    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta
    Gravity Dropper makes the best adjustable seatposts quality and functional wise hands down, IMO.

    I was on a 4" GD post for +4 years with no problems (220-225lb rider who rides hard and sloppy at times), other than the usual saddle wiggle and only two cable replacements (cheap).

    Bought a RS Reverb this past fall and sold it after 3 weeks of use due to being a little too cumbersome and not really as practical to use as I was hoping for.

    Now back on a GD post, the 30.9mm, 5" Classic and love it so much better than the Reverb Just a much more quality post with solid construction of the seatpost itself (not sensitve to binding forces), easy to set-up, easy to use with seat position in the "right" place everytime and absolutely no side to side or up/down play at all due to thicker inner tubing with 30.9 diameter mitigating any extra movement which would be present with their older 27.2 posts. And you can set-up the remote in the optimal position better, just above the left thumb FD shifter when running a right remote inverted on the left side. The Reverb required me to have shave off extra material from the FD shifter pod to get it more inline with thumb shifter and still never could get it in the optimal position due to the remote body since I don't like running the remotes on top of the bars.

    Gravity Dropper are awesome with excellent custy service here in the US (not the case with KS) and makes a solid product that they stand behind! Oh, and yes mechanical posts are just more practical and easier to use than hydraulic stuff without a doubt, even though the hydraulic sounds good in theory like disc brakes.

    Whats the difference between the two? and why did you go "Classic" over the Turbo? As far as looks go I prefer the Classic. Just cant get use to the 90deg. cable on the Turbo.

  46. #46
    Armchair Product Manager
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    I just posted my Reverb comments on a Reverb review on the SRAM forum. It's my fourth brand of adjustable (Maverick, GD, KSi900) and it is a really nice product so far. I have 25 or so 1.5-3 hour rides on it. I have noticed that the Reverb has a lot of front-to-back play and feels weak in that motion.

    The KS was going on two years and it was getting pretty worked - I think some of the bearing internals had siezed. Rick at KS gave it a beautiful rebuild. He's hard for me to reach but provided great customer service.

    The GD is also going great, but it's my back up at only 3 inches.

  47. #47
    T.W.O.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikedrd
    I just posted my Reverb comments on a Reverb review on the SRAM forum. It's my fourth brand of adjustable (Maverick, GD, KSi900) and it is a really nice product so far. I have 25 or so 1.5-3 hour rides on it. I have noticed that the Reverb has a lot of front-to-back play and feels weak in that motion.

    The KS was going on two years and it was getting pretty worked - I think some of the bearing internals had siezed. Rick at KS gave it a beautiful rebuild. He's hard for me to reach but provided great customer service.

    The GD is also going great, but it's my back up at only 3 inches.

    I just order the new inner tube for my GD, opt to go with 4/2 the part should arrive today. for $30 or $45 with the complete set of seat clamps and stuffs. DIY of course, but the VID looks pretty simple.

    I give GD a lot of pop for being the first to bring remote adj seatpost, but it's Maverick that put adj post on the AM map. Now we are enjoying the competition, and just pick the best one that suit us.

  48. #48
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    The Hi Lo is a little meaty. Just weighed out a 31.6 with remote.. a tad over 700gm.
    Have tried most and owns 3, GD, KS900 and the 950 currently in use. Not difficult to see what I prefer. Those gremlins...oops I mean joplins are nothing but PITA after awhile. The cheesy feel alone is enough for me not to touch them with a 10 foot pole.

    GD like other mechanicals are just a 1-2 positions or none. Kinda hard if u are unskilled like me and require different seat height when riding, taking a drop or popping a wheelie.

    But the main thing about the KS is ... having longest infinite adjustment range at one of the shortest length --- 5" for a 380mm post if my memory serves well.

  49. #49
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    Thank you all for the great info! I think i will be getting a KS I950 R. They all looked great but for price i found and how i will be using it, i think this one will suit me well. I almost bought a Joplin prior to creating this thread, so thank you for helping me out.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitarzan415
    Whats the difference between the two? and why did you go "Classic" over the Turbo? As far as looks go I prefer the Classic. Just cant get use to the 90deg. cable on the Turbo.
    The Turbo is suppose to be a bit faster than the Classic and you don't have to "tap" the saddle with your bum to unlock it as you do with the Classic as well. Turbo is also like 40g's lighter too, all for $50 more. My brother has a Turbo, and I have always had the Classic and prefer the action of the Classic better, cause it doesn't rack ya in the gnads when you click the lever and I much prefer the cable exit from the Classic post much better for less binding/pinching of the housing and cable. My brother likes his Turbo, but had to have a rebuild much sooner than I ever did on my old Classic due to the 90 deg exit placing more strain on the cable/housing, I think.

    I personally like and prefer the "tap" action on the Classic to unlock the saddle better than the Turbo and other mechanisms and is probably one of the main reasons I didn't like the Reverb as much. With the Reverb I had to fully come out of the saddle, push the remote and wait for it to be fully extended before sitting down again, occasionally sitting down before the post was fully extended on the climbs. If I wasn't so use to the tap and rise action of the Classic and never owned or ridden anything else, I probably would of thought the Reverb was the "cat's meow" of adj. posts. The GD post is just so much faster in its action, combined with a fixed setting for up and down, allows me to be able to just rise up with the saddle and instantly sit down again if needed, making it as intuitive as changing gears before a climb or descent. I always use the full extended position for most climbs on the trail and fully down for all of my descents. So, I don't use the infinite adjustable height feature, like on many other posts, cause I like to keep my saddle height the same when climbing or descending each time, without having to guess or use different settings in between, but that's just me.

    I would go Classic, but you might want to try both before you decide if possible.
    Ride On!

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